*INFESTED* Zoa Eating Nudi's, the Battle Begins

CodyRVA

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So, i'm going to try and make the most of this situation and do some testing on these suckers. This is an image I took a few days ago that I had IDed here on the forum. I didn't realize just how big this nudi was until i started finding it's friends; i've never had nudi's before...

29K1oPF.jpg


Today, i started looking around for more as most folks on the forum were inclined to believe there's no way this fat nudi was flying solo in my system. After manually picking my zoas for about 30 minutes, here are my findings...

TvJ5HWg.jpg


So, my initial plan of attack is going to be dipping with coral revive and manual removal. I have also explored options like adding a melanurus wrasse and treating with Flatworm EXIT. I will note that i do have a leopard wrasse and clearly he has absolutely no interest in the nudi's. I am going to treat with flatworm EXIT, but will likely do so in a controlled state (separate tank) out of fear of toxins being released from the nudi's death.

Some things i'd like to prove or disprove...

1.) Flatworm EXIT will kill nudi's under concentrated doses, specifically 4X the recommended dosage
2.) Zoa eating nudi's only eat zoas, not palys
3.) Explore other chemicals resulting in nudi death
4.) Lifespan from both treatment and starvation (how long it takes to nuke them)
5.) What, if any, critters will help fight nudis (currently exploring coral banded shrimp)


My Findings:

1.) Flatworm EXIT will kill nudi's, however there are far better means of controlling them and the required dose is so high it will almost certainly have adverse affects on other inverts. My conclusion; don't waste your time using EXIT for these guys.

2.) While i've had other reefers provide insight that these critters go after both zoas and palys, I never truly experienced this. My case was rare in that these nudi's locked onto a single colony of about a hundred polyps. I did find some on other zoas around this colony, but the nudi's primarily stuck to the same area. I believe this was because food resources were close by so why move around. All of the nudi's I found had yellow coloration; this is the same skirt color of the zoas they were inhabiting & eating.

3.) Ultimately, there are a plethora of ways to kill nudi's. These critters are actually very fragile and believe it or not I often disliked killing them because they are kind of cool... when they're not eating your coral. If you want to see more in depth information on potency and options for dosing please see below. To summarize, there are many ways, and many dips, that will kill the hatched nudi's. The issue is the eggs. I didn't find a single chemical that killed the eggs, not to say there isn't one, but relatively high and low salinity did have an affect on the eggs. I had one suggestion that Interceptor, used on pets for flea treatment, can kill the eggs. However, I was unsuccessful at harvesting any eggs to try.

Although I was able to find and test some eggs, it was short lived. This was a blessing in disguise. While I was bummed that I lost my chance to test the eggs more thoroughly, it further enhanced my belief that salinity is absolutely detrimental to both hatched nudi's and the eggs. Performing an RODI dip killed the grown nudi's within seconds. In addition, the salinity rose in the holding cup I had the eggs in, to 1.030. This also killed the few nudi's I had in the cup, and the eggs that were in there also died. They both basically just melted. So, if you can safely raise your salinity, eventually they'll bite it, but i'm sure this could have negative affects on your system.

Egg Holding Cup:
82b00e4ac8a820229d866426a2ca7da3.jpg


Egg Holding Cup Salinity Test:
26439d81a92bb02986c5534096561f1b.jpg


Additionally, manual removal is huge. If you stay on these guys and just keep on removing them, usually at night, you will eventually wipe them out. I'm can not confirm, but it seemed as though the nudi's had to become so large before being able to lay eggs. From my experience, continual removal and scrubbing for any signs of eggs, in addition to RODI dipping my zoas, is what did the nudi's in.

Testing Solutions:
I8CB4r7.jpg


7521748f5c0e15ce76f0f762e5f9ef5c.jpg


a19994b384ce075a06bcf38069ef8c18.jpg


f1b9705782477bc7824b133d31992e64.jpg


2571449418a18ed3aaaa835d1b7834f3.jpg


Since so many reefers use Bayer and other dips like Revive, I will highlight those two and say both successfully kill nudi's, but neither is effective for killing eggs. Other solutions like bleach, Ortho bug spray, pure ammonia and bleach were also all effective at killing the nudi's. Unfortunately, most of these would likely not be ideal options for dipping coral. Please dig deeper into the thread if you want more specific testing results.

Bayer Test Results:

Test #1: 2 drops per 1 ounce of tank water
Result #1: no affect

Test #2: 2.5ml of Bayer per 1 ounce of tank water
Result #2: immediate affect, nudi's immobilized, almost entirely unresponsive within 5 minutes, dead within 10 minutes.

5b0c7a4f3c1b5f85d91ae8b6ed311f5f.jpg


4.) I really can't speak to the lifespan of nudi's. My guess is a few weeks from eggs to hatching. As mentioned above, being diligent with your manual removal will make a huge difference in your battle. I was able to grasp where I was at in the life cycle when I was finding both small nudi's, medium ones, and the random large one that would pop up. When finding this wide range in size, I knew there was a plethora of eggs all hatching at different times. Eventually I only found medium to small ones and then just a random medium one, until I didn't find any at all. I'd also mention that a week can go by and you may get excited that you've won the war, then just one day later you'll find one again and you're back to square one.

My suggestion: be diligent! Even when you think these guys are gone, keep inspecting. If the last nudi you pull has laid eggs, it'll be a week or two before you find those new nudis. Keep up with your manual removal.

5.) During my nudi battles, I added a coral banded shrimp and a Mccosker's wrasse. I'm confident in saying that neither did anything in the way of eating these critters. I have no doubt there's something out there that eats these guys, but I was unable do much testing here. Reminder, I also have a leopard wrasse, which also had no interest.

To conclude:
  1. Manual removal is easily the most important key to beating zoa eating nudis
  2. Fresh water dipping zoa colonies and frags is beneficial in combating both grown nudi's and eggs. This is not to say it will destroy the eggs in the duration of your dip, but it definitely has a positive impact on killing them over time. In addition, raising your salinity will also have a positive impact. 1.030 salinity killed both grown nudi's and eggs after 10 days of exposure.
  3. Dips like Bayer and Revive will kill the grown nudi's, but are essentially worthless for treating eggs. If you're going to dip with these solutions to kill the grown nudi's, you should also inspect and scrub diligently for eggs and consider an RODI dip.
  4. While there may be critters out there that eat nudi's, I was unable to findd one. Tangs, rabbitfish, gobies, clowns, mccosker's and leopard wrasses as well as coral banded shrimp or hermits were not effective.
  5. Nudi's are resilient and they lay a lot of eggs. We all know how hard it is to catch a fish in our reef. Imagine trying to find eggs in the same environment. While you may have checked and come up nudi free for several days or even a week, keep looking. Chances are you missed eggs somewhere and those nudi's are bound to show up. Maintain a daily regiment for egg and nudi inspection and remove them accordingly.

Prevention:

It goes without saying, but QT! I've never had these guys before and figured I always thought I would see the eggs with how meticulous I am... wrong. I introduced eggs into my system and this was the outcome. If you can't QT, I suggest re-gluing your frags to fresh plugs and gently brushing polyps, when plausible, regardless of what you can or can not see.

Final thoughts:
Overall these are cool critters, they're obviously a nuisance, but interesting to say the least. I would not over react if you find them. As long as you are diligent with treatment and stay smart, you can wipe them out fairly easily. At this point, there is no silver bullet. A combination of approaches is your best bet. Do it right and you'll survive!
 
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Reefcowboy

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I had a problem with those a while back, followed the Flatworm Exit at concentrated ratio(higher than 4X) nudis keps moving like nohing happened. What ended up killing them was freshwater dip...
Problem was it stressed the zoas a lot.

Coral RX dips for prolonged time will also help, at lower doses of course.
I hated those so bad because they lay eggs and you think things are under control and months after zoas are closed with a new batch hovering over them ....
 
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CodyRVA

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@jboone82590 No idea, must have been from a frag. They may have been in there a while; I had a coral banded shrimp that was handling an over population of amphipods and once i removed the shrimp for aggressive behavior the pods came back. It's very possible the nudi's were kept in check while the shrimp was in there and the population exploded when I removed the shrimp, no idea. On the other hand they could have came in at a later date.

Right now the nudi's seem to be favoring one zoa colony in particular, not sure if thats where the eggs were layed, but the big adults i've found, 2 so far, were both yellow. The zoas all the littles ones are attacking are yellow. I have yet to see them on any other zoas with the exception of that first big one who I did actually find eating radioactive dragons. If i can harvest some of them from that zoa colony and test them and hopefully rid my system of them, I will be exceedingly grateful.
 

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So, i'm going to try and make the most of this situation and do some testing on these suckers. This is an image I took a few days ago that I had IDed here on the forum. I didn't realize just how big this nudi was until i started finding it's friends; i've never had nudi's before...

29K1oPF.jpg


Today, i started looking around for more as most folks on the forum were inclined to believe there's no way this fat nudi was flying solo in my system. After manually picking my zoas for about 30 minutes, here are my findings...

TvJ5HWg.jpg


So, my initial plan of attack is going to be dipping with coral revive and manual removal. I have also explored options like adding a melanurus wrasse and treating with Flatworm EXIT. I will note that i do have a leopard wrasse and clearly he has absolutely no interest in the nudi's. I am going to treat with flatworm EXIT, but will likely do so in a controlled state (separate tank) out of fear of toxins being released from the nudi's death.

Some things i'd like to prove or disprove...

1.) Flatworm EXIT will kill nudi's under concentrated doses, specifically 4X the recommended dosage
2.) Zoa eating nudi's only eat zoas, not palys
3.) Explore other chemicals resulting in nudi death
4.) Lifespan from both treatment and starvation (how long it takes to nuke them)
5.) What, if any, critters will help fight nudis (currently exploring coral banded shrimp)
Yellow hornet nudis? Haha jk, thanks for posting, itll take a bit to get them out. But im sure youll be successful! Just keep a close eye, maybe put a frag rack on your front pane so you can check them daily. maybe a light iodine or peroxide dip will take them right off.
 
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CodyRVA

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Yellow hornet nudis? Haha jk, thanks for posting, itll take a bit to get them out. But im sure youll be successful! Just keep a close eye, maybe put a frag rack on your front pane so you can check them daily. maybe a light iodine or peroxide dip will take them right off.

Right... my only guess is because the eggs were maybe all on that rock? Time will tell if they move to another area. Something else i've noticed is there are palys all around this rock, no other zoas, and the palys are completely unaffected; haven't pulled a single nudi from any paly so far.
 

jboone82590

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@jboone82590 No idea, must have been from a frag. They may have been in there a while; I had a coral banded shrimp that was handling an over population of amphipods and once i removed the shrimp for aggressive behavior the pods came back. It's very possible the nudi's were kept in check while the shrimp was in there and the population exploded when I removed the shrimp, no idea. On the other hand they could have came in at a later date.

Right now the nudi's seem to be favoring one zoa colony in particular, not sure if thats where the eggs were layed, but the big adults i've found, 2 so far, were both yellow. The zoas all the littles ones are attacking are yellow. I have yet to see them on any other zoas with the exception of that first big one who I did actually find eating radioactive dragons. If i can harvest some of them from that zoa colony and test them and hopefully rid my system of them, I will be exceedingly grateful.
I would bet it had eggs on a frag plug or something.
Are you pulling off of frags or off of full colony's?
 

kashman100

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Check all your zoa stalks for egg swirls and manually scrape them off. I found only 2 nudis and already had 5 sets of egg swirls. Also best time to check is couple hours after lights go off
 
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CodyRVA

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I did some testing... Keep in mind these are things I already had around the house. No clue if the Lugols, Cupramine or bleach would even be up for debate here. As stated, just exploring and having a bit of fun doing some research. These are 1 ounce portion cups, I started with 1 drop for each besides the control which is saltwater and the RODI which is self explanatory.

I8CB4r7.jpg


By least affective to most affective:

#1: Lugols
(worst):
This was almost a joke, maybe a better iodine solution should be explored, but i poured this stuff in and the nudis did eventually die, but it took nearly 45 minutes. Bodies didn't melt or deteriorate, they just curled up. 1 drop of solution did absolutely nothing to the nudis.

IbOUfbS.jpg


#2: Cupramine:
Again, a different copper solution may yield different results. This one did work very well for about 5 drops for the 1 ounce of saltwater. 1 drop didn't do much of anything. Same as the Lugols, the bodies just kind of curled up, no break down.

1LOvtrA.jpg


#3: H202:
Kind of surprised wit this one, the bodies really just turned to nothing. I only added one drop, they just did not do well with the h202 at all. They did crawl around some, but within 5 minutes they were dead. Minor body deterioration, but still mostly intact.

UCe7Wy6.jpg



#4: Bleach:

The nudi's did not last long before they died. Some crawled around temporarily, but eventually died and not only did they die, but their bodies pretty much turned to mush. I would obviously be leery about using bleach to treat for nudi's, but bleach does pretty much kill everything.

QXRZnWo.jpg


#5: RODI:
Hands down the most affective. It took seconds to minutes to kill the nudis. Their bodies didn't break down, but the just went stiff. Didn't even crawl around. To double check, i pulled the nudi from the salt water control test, which this nudi was crawling around, and dropped him in the RODI and in less than a minute the thing was dead. This would be an ideal treatment if you were dipping zoas directly.

tcQXcNj.jpg



#6: Two Little Fishies Coral Revive (best):
So this was my main dip. I knew, or at least hoped, this stuff would kill them. I soaked the rock in 1 cap of solution for every quart of water. Before returning the rock to the tank i did a fresh water dip for a few seconds, really just to rinse the solution from the rock. I was also slightly compelled to rinse in RODI due to its extreme effectiveness on the other test nudi's. This is everything that came off of the rock. Not sure if this is mostly detritus, but there are many large pods, collateral damage :oops:, and you can see many nudi bodies.

a8Cgzrw.jpg
 

Sabellafella

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I did some testing... Keep in mind these are things I already had around the house. No clue if the Lugols, Cupramine or bleach would even be up for debate here. As stated, just exploring and having a bit of fun doing some research. These are 1 ounce portion cups, I started with 1 drop for each besides the control which is saltwater and the RODI which is self explanatory.

I8CB4r7.jpg


By least affective to most affective:

#1: Lugols
(worst):
This was almost a joke, maybe a better iodine solution should be explored, but i poured this stuff in and the nudis did eventually die, but it took nearly 45 minutes. Bodies didn't melt or deteriorate, they just curled up. 1 drop of solution did absolutely nothing to the nudis.

IbOUfbS.jpg


#2: Cupramine:
Again, a different copper solution may yield different results. This one did work very well for about 5 drops for the 1 ounce of saltwater. 1 drop didn't do much of anything. Same as the Lugols, the bodies just kind of curled up, no break down.

1LOvtrA.jpg


#3: H202:
Kind of surprised wit this one, the bodies really just turned to nothing. I only added one drop, they just did not do well with the h202 at all. They did crawl around some, but within 5 minutes they were dead. Minor body deterioration, but still mostly intact.

UCe7Wy6.jpg



#4: Bleach:

The nudi's did not last long before they died. Some crawled around temporarily, but eventually died and not only did they die, but their bodies pretty much turned to mush. I would obviously be leery about using bleach to treat for nudi's, but bleach does pretty much kill everything.

QXRZnWo.jpg


#5: RODI:
Hands down the most affective. It took seconds to minutes to kill the nudis. Their bodies didn't break down, but the just went stiff. Didn't even crawl around. To double check, i pulled the nudi from the salt water control test, which this nudi was crawling around, and dropped him in the RODI and in less than a minute the thing was dead. This would be an ideal treatment if you were dipping zoas directly.

tcQXcNj.jpg



#6: Two Little Fishies Coral Revive (best):
So this was my main dip. I knew, or at least hoped, this stuff would kill them. I soaked the rock in 1 cap of solution for every quart of water. Before returning the rock to the tank i did a fresh water dip for a few seconds, really just to rinse the solution from the rock. I was also slightly compelled to rinse in RODI due to its extreme effectiveness on the other test nudi's. This is everything that came off of the rock. Not sure if this is mostly detritus, but there are many large pods, collateral damage :oops:, and you can see many nudi bodies.

a8Cgzrw.jpg
Nice! For lugols i use 2ml per cup of tank water for zoas, usually kills everything right away. But nothing like a 10 second freshwater dip for some zoas man.
 
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CodyRVA

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Update: only found 1 nudi this morning. I expect to find more, but time will tell.

Also, nudis seem to not take on color until they become a certain size (until they eat enough?). The "small" ones and on up all have the "glow" from eating the corresponding zoa, but the wee little guys are just brown which makes them very hard to spot.

The best way I've been able to spot the tiny ones has been to look across the polyps not down on them. Looking across you can see their backs, look like zoas skirts. The zoas must always be closed to spot them at any size large or small.
 

Fish Werx

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Update: only found 1 nudi this morning. I expect to find more, but time will tell.

Also, nudis seem to not take on color until they become a certain size (until they eat enough?). The "small" ones and on up all have the "glow" from eating the corresponding zoa, but the wee little guys are just brown which makes them very hard to spot.

The best way I've been able to spot the tiny ones has been to look across the polyps not down on them. Looking across you can see their backs, look like zoas skirts. The zoas must always be closed to spot them at any size large or small.
Are you checking with existing ambient light? Or with a blue light flashlight to make them fluoresce when the polyps are closed? Guess it wouldn't really help with the little ones?
 
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CodyRVA

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Are you checking with existing ambient light? Or with a blue light flashlight to make them fluoresce when the polyps are closed? Guess it wouldn't really help with the little ones?

Using my moon lights as well as just my blues on my ATI fixture, so channel 2, (2 bulbs). They're not hard to spot at all with these lights, only issue is the small ones as mentioned. It's possible just the shear size and smaller reflective body mass makes them difficult to spot compared to the larger ones.

At any rate, if you dip, you'll find them.
 

kashman100

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The Lugols you used is iodide which is a safer form of iodine made for dosing. If you get the Lugols iodine it works much better
 

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