Looking to upgrade my sump but...

lofty78

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I'm considering replacing my sump with a 60x18x18 Synergy Reef CL-60.my problem is getting the new sump in... The only feasible way of getting it under the display is temporarily bracing the tank and removing this brace. I could brace the threshold with a couple of stacked 2x4s as a the threshold and 1x 2x4s on each side. This will allow me to slide the sump in and also enable easy monitoring and adjustments from the back of the tank. This is the brace I'm referring to. Any ideas on this? Ever been done before? (display is full of livestock)

20231025_222959.jpg 20231025_223726.jpg
 
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lofty78

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Is it possible to remove the end panel, Or will it even fit through the end panel? And why are you upgrading the sump?
I only have 2-3 feet of clearance on each side of the tank and the openings there are only 15 wide. I could expand by 1.5 inch on each side, but I'm afraid the length of this sump would not go in at an angle. I'm replacing the sump to consolidate several reactors and add a refugium. I currently run 2 siporax reactors, GFO, Carbon, CO scrubber, UV, ATO, and a 1/3 hp chiller. There are crazy pumps, hoses, and cords everywhere and it looks terrible. My current sump is an old, generic 3 chamber and I have a bunch of ALK/CA/MG precip in the inlet chamber that was from dosing incorrectly.
 

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I only have 2-3 feet of clearance on each side of the tank and the openings there are only 15 wide. I could expand by 1.5 inch on each side, but I'm afraid the length of this sump would not go in at an angle. I'm replacing the sump to consolidate several reactors and add a refugium. I currently run 2 siporax reactors, GFO, Carbon, CO scrubber, UV, ATO, and a 1/3 hp chiller. There are crazy pumps, hoses, and cords everywhere and it looks terrible. My current sump is an old, generic 3 chamber and I have a bunch of ALK/CA/MG precip in the inlet chamber that was from dosing incorrectly.
Dang that's a good bit going on there. We'll at least that's a viable reason to actually go through with this lol. I'd probably drain the tank to half and pull that middle support out then pull the sump out and new one in then rebrace and refill the tank before going and doing all your setup. That way your corals and stuff aren't out of water for too long and can at least get the powerheads moving water while you're setting the sump up. But unfortunately without being able to go out the side I don't see any other way
 
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lofty78

lofty78

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Dang that's a good bit going on there. We'll at least that's a viable reason to actually go through with this lol. I'd probably drain the tank to half and pull that middle support out then pull the sump out and new one in then rebrace and refill the tank before going and doing all your setup. That way your corals and stuff aren't out of water for too long and can at least get the powerheads moving water while you're setting the sump up. But unfortunately without being able to go out the side I don't see any other way

Viable reason #1 :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
 

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ScottD

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Volume is approx. 200 gallons, its 72x22x28 Bow 20231026_212630.jpg
Ya a tank that big, especially being a bow front I would drain down as much as you can before removing anything. Looks like you’ve got quite a bit you could drain off before your corals are exposed.
 

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Can you send a picture of the stand and the area around it so we can see what kind of space you have around it? I’ve got a couple ideas that might work depending on how much room you have around the tank.
 
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lofty78

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20231027_074010.jpg
 

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lofty78

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Never even herd of a bowfront that big! Was it a custom order?
It was custom built by Aquatic Environments in Phoenix. This was a display in their store... It's Acrylic and the stand and canopy were custom built per my specs.
 
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lofty78

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I have done this a lot. Used a bottle jack, removed the brace, removed the jack, did the work and then put the bottle jack back on and put the brace/piece back. The 4 corners are paramount, but I would always replace the brace when you are done working.

I can tell you that on a 84 inch oceanic stand, the middle sagged enough that the middle braces (there were three) would not go back in without the bottle jack to make 1/32 of room.

You can use hardwood boards on the top and bottom of the bottle jack to save the finished wood.
I found this thread on here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/can-i-remove-the-middle-front-brace-on-my-stand.505271/ and someone responded with this. I'm liking the bottle jack Idea. I'm thinking now of doing a double 2x4 header and 2x double 2x4 side braces and removing both braces from the back and having it wide open... I'm thinking this would be super well supported especially with the superior stand construction and the fact that acrylic is so much stronger than glass. I think I'll drain about half to be safe. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
 

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Are you planning on leaving the 2x4 header permanently or just temp while you remove the braces? If I was doing it and just removing the brace temporarily, I would just drain the tank halfway or so, remove one of the braces and not worry about temp bracing.
 
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lofty78

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Are you planning on leaving the 2x4 header permanently or just temp while you remove the braces? If I was doing it and just removing the brace temporarily, I would just drain the tank halfway or so, remove one of the braces and not worry about temp bracing.
I was thinking permanent for easy of access
 

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