low nutrient systems....

Troylee

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So what is a low nutrient aquarium? A common question being asked around in today reefing....

Below is an interesting article by Jeremy Simmonds to better understand of what's the fuss about....


So what is a low nutrient aquarium?
Hi, my intention is to keep this article as a generic overview of the systems and some of the methodologies that make up a low nutrient filter system. If anybody wishes to correct or add to this document please pm me and I will be happy to update it as needed.


Why low nutrient aquariums?
Simply put for many years marine aquarists have wanted to be able to offer water quality that is as good as nature. You do not have to be an aquarist for long to realise that in the end, it all comes back to the water. If you could connect your aquarium up to a supply of natural seawater turn on the tap and let it flow constantly through your aquarium, given a little light and flow you would have thriving colourful corals.


Adding fish just messes it up!
Where aquariums go wrong is the addition of fish, corals and other livestock. A glass box of lovely crystal clear shimmering water is so attractive and easy to keep, “adding fish just messes it upâ€. That remark was made to me by a designer adding a water feature to a London office where I use to work.

Making it all work.
So we quickly come to the conclusion that we cannot fit a new tap to our house called Pacific Ocean and unless we are like the London designer we actually want our fish and corals. So we have to find ways to make it work and boy do we try different ways to make it work. Since I first had an interest in marines, I have seen just about every gadget, gizmo, pill, and powder brought onto the market to try and make the aquarists life easier by improving the water quality. Some worked some were rubbish and a few moved the hobby forward and gave us better conditions for the animals in the aquarium. In my opinion the tools of low nutrient systems are the next step forward and one that is making a real difference to the health of our aquariums.

Since the first filter was added to an aquarium we have relied on bacteria to help us digest fish waste and keep the aquarium water in good condition for our fish. The nitrogen cycle as it’s often called is the basis of reprocessing wastes in nature. It is quite easy to cultivate these primary bacteria, just a bit of sponge or gravel with water flowing through it and you will soon have a nice home for bacteria to live, add a little ammonia and a few other bits of waste and you have happy bacteria consuming the bulk of the waste in the aquarium. As primary bacteria, these species are quick to grow and quick to get the job done, but, here’s the downside, these bacteria are limited in what they can consume. If waste was simply just a single element then perhaps we would have sufficient bacteria to do the job, sadly all the other biological wastes in the aquarium build up and lower water quality. Over the years we have come up with a wide range of gadgets and methods to try and help remove these other nutrients. The ones you are probably most familiar with is devices like the protein skimmer, the use of live rock to help remove nitrates and absorption resins that will absorb and hold specific wastes in their pores. All these methods have helped us to try and keep our water quality closer to natural seawater levels. At this point it would be wrong to say that these systems have failed abysmally as I have seen some very good aquariums run using a combination of the methods mentioned above. I have also seen some very well equipped and specified aquariums run by competent aquarist’s amount to nothing more than a drab brown collection of rocks and corals.

Anybody who has seen an Acropora coral either in the wild or in the aquarium can attest to some of the fantastic colour combinations that look almost painted on to the coral by nature. It is this beautiful colouration and maintaining it across the whole branch of the coral that became the driver for the early developers of low nutrient filtration. These guys were interested in a method of filtration that allowed corals to keep their eye popping colours. This is easier said than done and anybody who kept Acropora corals over 5 years ago would notice that a beautiful coral bought and added to your aquarium on Saturday could be fading fast by the end of the week.

Lovers of SPS corals have long been the experimenters at the dripping edge of the hobby. Their early quest to keep these corals alive, lead to many pioneering methods such as powered skimmers, calcium reactors and the design of better filtering equipment, all to keep these difficult corals alive. Once they were alive and growing the next big thing was to keep the colour.


So much has been written about coral colouration but it is still very hard to fully explain why every coral is the colour it is and why some will change colour more easily than others. Most early sps keepers had a nice aquarium of fast growing green and brown staghorns, if the truth was known most of the browns had probably been bought as expensive blues or tricolours that once added to the aquarium either quickly or slowly all sort of went brown. A few of these, where the lighting was strong, would develop coloured tips but in all but the most exceptional aquariums brown was the colour.


The battle for low nutrients begins.

In those early days you could easily notice that the SPS coral would look brighter for a good water change. This and taking a sledge hammer lead to the problem lead to bigger powered skimmers to try and keep water quality high along with experiments with evermore powerful lighting. Another factor was that those aquariums that had good SPS colouration often had hardly any fish. Back to the designer who feels fish ruin a water feature.


What makes a coral go brown?
It can be a combination of things; some Corals are brown that’s the way nature intended them to be. Others lose their colour due to elevated nutrients, stress migration and adaptation to their new environment.
 

stunreefer

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Here is the pdf of that arcticle: http://www.ultimatereef.net/files/2007Q1/LNS_Introduction.pdf

I have a few bones to pick regarding how some of it is explained, namely the whole term "low nutrient" as reefs are anything but... It will come in due time after the vBulletin update ;)

Just realized you probably weren't done posting the rest of the article Troy, sorry about that, carry on...
 
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Troylee

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Nutrient Browning.
Almost any aquarium with elevated levels of nitrate/phosphate and dissolved organics can send the brightest of corals brown inside a few days with clearly visible changes in just a few hours. This is simply that the corals zooanthellae are suddenly offered a whole lot of food. They rapidly multiply causing a thickening of the cells and obscuring the corals pigmentation. With some coral even low levels such as 5ppm of nitrate will cause browning or loss of visible pigmentation, the same applies to phosphates. In some corals this effect can be quickly reversed by lowering the nutrients in others it seems almost impossible to reverse the problem without major changes.


Browning from lighting issues.
There is no doubt that light plays an important part in determining a corals colour and insufficient light will often cause browning or even slow death. This is largely for the same reason as nutrient browning. This time due to lack of sufficient light, to get the energy it needs, the zooanthellae multiply and increase in density. This allows the coral to survive, although if the light levels are insufficient then the coral will eventually lose tissue and die.


Zooanthellae migration
Another issue that can effect the visual appearance of corals is a mechanism that allows them to take in new zooanthellae from the water stream. This is a complex survival mechanism that is not fully understood but it is presumed to allow corals to survive in changing environments. The coral can select a more suitable algae cell from the water; this better provides energy in a particular environment. This is sort of a fit for purpose mechanism. The effect can often lead to corals changing colour hence you find the effect where corals over time, in a particular aquarium with a given set of water parameters, can mostly migrate to a specific colour caused by the selection of more favourable cell.
So where do low nutrient systems come in?
All this historical stuff is fascinating to those who like a little bit of background but most of you will probably want to get down to the meat of how a low nutrient aquarium works. So below I have listed the three main methods as I see them. There are a number of other systems on the market but the methods here are based on those currently available in the UK.


Keep it simple system.
If you want to effectively keep a low nutrient aquarium without any of the methods mentioned here then this can easily be achieved by using this simple method and it was how I ran my little experimental system. It kept full branch colour and obtained good coral growth. So here it is, no rocket science, just a simple Berlin system (live rock + Bright light +good flow +diligent use of PO4 removers) and of course zero or 1 fish. The skimmer needs to be well oversized I ran a turbo flotor multi 1000 on a 35 gallon system. I also did weekly 5 gallon water changes. Due to lack of nutrients the corals were fed from time to time and this seemed to help I also used Korallin amino acid food which was probably the only one available in the UK in the early 90’s . The only other factor was the light. The original light was a 6500k Iwasaki that bumps out lots of PAR and later an STM compact 250 watt 10k BLV both were changed at 9 months as light at this point was up to 30% lower than when the bulb was new. The only couple of shots I have on this computer still adequately demonstrate that the coral colour was good. So it can be done with a little luck and the designer approach to fish.


The probiotic system.

One of the things I mentioned earlier is that there seems to be a recognisable trend of reef aquariums, no matter how well equipped or maintained, failing to deliver what we consider to be an attractive reef tank.

When working retail I have had repeated experience of this where a particular system struggles to keep corals alive. There is no hard science that I have seen yet but there has been some good work done on aquarium’s that can quite quickly become a monoculture of bacteria. What this means in layman’s terms is the conditions so far in the aquariums life have ended up favouring a few or a single species of bacteria. These bacteria may not be particularly adept at filtration and feeding on wastes but could be quite predatory starving out or consuming other bacteria until it becomes the dominant type.

The idea of probiotic systems which are at present really divided into those produced by Prodibio and those by Fauna Marin. Both of these utilise the same bacteria types and offer a complimentary food to help keep the bacteria going. The idea is very simple, by providing the aquarium with a regular cocktail of good bacteria we will have sufficient good filter bacteria to tackle common aquarium nutrient problems easily and then start reducing the less common nutrients. So all you need to do in theory is to maintain the aquarium at NSW levels for all other parameters and get on with dosing the probiotic.

There have been a number of very good aquariums that have been done this way and it allows you to get involved for a small commitment.


Zeolith Systems.
These are the driving engines of the low nutrient methods. In the UK these are currently broken into two ranges one formulated by Korallen Zucht and a more recent production by Fauna Marin. Both of these systems are capable of getting your aquarium nutrients very low and allowing you to enjoy the benefits of enhanced coral colouration and growth. At the core of both methods is a mixed carbon and amino source that is dosed to the aquarium, these provide food sources for a range of bacteria and amino acids to help feed the bacteria and the corals. Where do the stones come in, well a key part of the methodology is to use a specific mix of Zeolites to absorb aquarium nutrients. This takes us back to our earlier points about aquarium wastes darkening the coral and causing browning. Simply put, ammonia from fish waste is quickly absorbed from the aquarium by the Zeolites and finally oxidised by bacteria. This reduces the amount of food available to the corals so the Zooanthellae stay at natural levels rather than thickening in the presence of nutrients as we mentioned earlier. As the stones build up films of bacteria the pumping action releases these into the water and they act as a food source for the corals. Bacteria is a rich food source for corals, so as the level of dissolved organics decreases the addition of bacterial slime is ideal and enhances the colour and health of the corals.
 
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Troylee

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Low Nutrient FAQ

Q: Is it for my aquarium?
A: Most aquariums with both hard and soft will benefit from engaging some way with a low nutrient system. The principles encourage good aquarium husbandry and a methodical approach.



Q:It seems very complex and involving?
A: A full on Zeolith system demands some time from you daily to dose the foods and additives to keep the aquarium in best health. If you have fish you need to feed them and to be quite honest the time taken to add a few drops of the relevant products and pump the reactor probably adds 10 minutes max. The other alternative and one we see often in Europe is the use of automated dosing pumps to add key ingredients throughout the day. This reduces the time considerably.



Q: Will the aquarium crash or break down if I do not dose?
A: In the short term no but you will see a change in the corals fairly quickly once you stop feeding them.



Q:Can I mix methods FM and Korallen Zucht?
A: The safe answer is no way.

Although I would caveat by saying if you know what the exact product you are using from a different range is doing then you may choose to experiment at your peril. Products like FM min-s contain over 130 compounds both chemical and organic mix and matching has the potential to do harm. The only area that crosses over is that some people also dose Ultra bio or Prodibio in full Zeo systems so that there is a dose of good bacteria for the foods to work with.



Q: Is it good for my fish?
A: It is often forgotten in all the discussion about coral colour and health that goes with LNS is, what about the fish? Well in all the systems I have seen, the improved water quality has paid dividends in fish health and colouration.



Q: Do I need a massive skimmer?
A: LNS advocate’s have long made use of the latest and best technology for their aquariums. So yes you do not see a lot of zeo systems running on a 50 gallon aquarium with a prism skimmer. The main reason for this is that by feeding all these bacteria you are getting a big increase in cellular respiration and the waste from this needs to be skimmed from the aquarium. Although we have recently seen some comments that although the perception is that we need heavy skimming that once the aquarium reaches maturity as a LNS then heavy skimming is less important. Either way you should use a correctly sized skimmer for your aquarium. My equation for this has always been half what the maker states.


Q Do I need a calcium reactor?
A: In any aquarium with a good growth of corals then there is a usage of calcium. How this is replenished is up to the end user. In recent years there has been a move away from Kalkwasser as there are a number of problems related to its use. Low nutrient aquariums are usually run with either a combination of calcium reactor or two part additives or through a popular system in Germany called the Balling method. The advantage of Balling is it allows you to control all aspects of the calcium system on your aquarium. This means you can more easily manage your KH to the recommended levels for Zeolith systems usually around 6-8 DKH.



Q: Is it going to cost me a fortune?
A: Anything that brings major benefits to your aquarium has a cost attached but the cost is out weighed by the results for most people. If you find a whole system prohibitive then perhaps try a probiotic system or just dosing products like Min-s and Bak that will have a smaller cost than getting a full reactor.



Q: Do I need to run a phosphate remover?
A: Before you start on bacterial feeding on any aquarium you should get the levels of phosphate down. Failure to do this can often lead to blooms of cynobacteria. It is also important to monitor levels over the course of the break-in period. It is only once the bacterial beds are established that natural reduction in phosphates can take place.



Q: Will running a LNS lower nitrates?
A: As the bacterial beds start to increase you will see a fairly steady drop in nitrates. If nitrates have been high for a long period of time and there is a build up in the rock or the sand then the reduction will be slower as the stored nitrates are released back into the water.



Q: Do I need to use live rock?
A: The simple answer is no!

There are a number of aquariums now that have done very well using artificial décor. So LNS advocate’s see this lack of rock a positive boon as it saves on the cost of rock and the issue of hitchhikers and predators.



Q:Should I increase my lighting?
A: An under lit aquarium is an under lit aquarium and changing the way we filter it will make very little difference to the effect the lighting has on the corals. The plus side to a low nutrient system is that due to the high clarity of the water lighting is well utilised, there is also some thought that the feeding regimes that are part of the system reduce the need for corals to gain so much energy through pure light.



Q: Can I keep soft corals and Zoo’s?
A: Yes although LNS were largely developed by SPS coral lovers the benefits of a more natural low nutrient system have the same benefits for softies and Zoo’s. In fact many soft corals that are considered boring and brown will develop a far more subtle shading, more resembling there natural hues.
Q: Should I run carbon all the time?
A: Carbon is important in most Zeo systems to help remove wastes and keep the water free from yellowing. It is best to follow the recommendation that goes with the system you are using.




 
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Troylee

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Q: LNS are dangerous and can kill corals?
A: This was touted around a lot when the system was first demonstrated and yes some people have lost corals as they converted their nutrient loaded aquarium to a low nutrient system. As with all things if one err’s on the side of caution and is diligent in making gradual changes there is little chance of losing corals. This is not a system that suits the oh I will dosh a bit of bottle A and a bit of bottle B. If users start on the lowest dose or even half if they are really worried there is very little chance of a mishap.



Q: The system is a gimmick and no good long term!
A: These systems are long past the unproven stages, there are many aquariums around the world now running on Zeolith and probiotic systems.



Q:Do I need to use all the products
A: There is a definite trend towards using a smaller subset of all the chemicals available for low nutrient systems but to achieve close to some of the full LNS pictures around then diligent use as per manufacturers direction is suggested.



Q: Can I convert my old aquarium to a low nutrient system
A:The simple answer is yes.

The time it takes to achieve this will depend on what condition you current aquarium is in. If for example you have never bothered using a phosphate remover you will often find large amounts of phosphates bound into the rock and sand along with other nutrients. Before embarking on the low nutrient road it is worth attempting to bring these levels down. It is often the case that simply siphoning out the old substrate will help to knock out high levels of phosphate that keep bouncing back each time the phosphate remover is changed. You have to make a decision with bound up nutrients do I throw gallons of water changes at the problem and try diluting or do I use a ton of PO4 remover or do I replace the sand. You can test the sand by adding a good handful to 1 litre of RO water stir vigorously and leave over night to see what leaches out, stir occasionally test after 24 hrs with an accurate phosphate test kit.



Q: Low Nutrient and Zeo systems look fake
A: In a few cases where either the owner has gone to far or the image has been heavily manipulated in Photoshop you may think the corals look a little unreal. The reality is different. If you work with imported corals on a daily basis you will soon notice that the colour of the corals out of the box direct from shipping is not the colour you will see after a few hours in many dealers’ aquariums. There are a number of reasons for this but mostly down to the high levels of nutrients in retail aquariums. It takes a lot of dedication to bother running a low nutrient system in a retail environment. Although getting the best colour and value from your stock should make good business sense. I have on many occasions seen corals first darken and start to change in less than 24 hrs if added to high nutrient holding tanks and how many times have you spent good money on a coral, taken it home only to have it go brown in a couple of weeks or just the tips keeping the colour. Surely this is just the hi colour Acropora corals, no far from the truth many soft corals will have subtle hues of green or gold but by the time they have spent a couple of days in a high nutrient holding tank they often become a uniform brown. Run correctly a low nutrient aquarium gets and keeps results closer to nature.
 

revhtree

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Nice sticky...
 

firsttime

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Very nice Info...if you have some pics of the same coral before and after the transformation to an LNS system that will help even more. I know it hard to capture that much detail but thought I will ask.
 

lamarine23

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It sounds like you don't believe it's possible to have a ULNS with a lot of fish?
 

lamarine23

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I would have to disagree completely.....with today's equipment it's actually quite easy.
 

Powerman

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So to your comment about a lot of fish... How is it different having fish and corals eating poo, and having less fish but feeding the tank more. Seems to be a wash. I'm asking not telling.

But thank you so much for this... I sort of thought coral color was some voo doo...could still be once everything is right. But I was concerned with too much light, and probably have too little. I started increasing my light and I'm seeing good results.... this article just really explained it all very nice.
 

stunreefer

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So to your comment about a lot of fish... How is it different having fish and corals eating poo, and having less fish but feeding the tank more. Seems to be a wash. I'm asking not telling.
It basically is a "wash". It's all about equalling nutrient import vs. nutrient export. Corals need a certain amount of food in the water column, but it needs to be removed prior to creating nutrient unacceptable nutrient levels.
 

Powerman

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That sounds reasonable... thanks. I just started bio pellets for LNS. I already have low nutrients, but I want to feed more.
 

Aku

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Nice. I'll be interested to hear how that works out for you powerman.

Anybody have thoughts on starting a tank from the beginning with pellets or carbon dosing? I'm curious how the tank's cycle would react to having pellets already installed. Would it be detrimental, completely pointless, or helpful?
 
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Troylee

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i started mine with dry marco rock and mb7 for 2 weeks, then started the vodka and added sps..... all in 2 weeks and everything worked out great......pellets with mb7 would prolly work great for a cycle imo... the mb7 it's self works great....;)
 

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