Mystery Zoa melt, my search for a cure (follow my journey).

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Edgecrusher28

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Acropora rules.
It is sad to see but many reefers buy what they are told is the best.
In these cases it is the equipment that keep the water cleanest.
But many corals doesnt thrive in so nutrient defiecent waters.
I tell my customers to only have 1 turnover per hour through the sump and about one tank volume of air per hour into the skimmer. Dont use fleece filters ore aquarium computers.
In that way it is possible to have softies ad Zoantides with most stone corals.
And when you examine the values you slowly get a feeling how they fit together.

But if you listen to the Acropora people and buy things for 10 times sump turnover and 3 times skimmer air intake your softies will starve to death.

Most corals need both organic nutrition and inorganic.
The best organic nutrition i believe is fish poop (corals are adapted to that since more than 100 million years) but many Amino bottles are also good.
I believe most of the big coral growers mix their own coral food of fish meat, shrimps, mussels and various other living things from the sea. And check the inorganic values too.

It is not a coincident that the zoanthids did recover in snoopdogs other tank with hang on back filter and no skimmer.
I believe you are absolutely correct in broad terms here with nutrition and starving Zoa's. However, I have had nutrient levels range from 5-p03 and .03 p04 to 57p03 and .81 p04 between two tanks which still exhibited the same symptoms of stress with Zoa's which is why I felt the saying the low nutrients starves the tank idea was a little inconclusive or vague.
 
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Yeah I think your results would Improve just the same as mine with the gravel/sand. Even the premium rubble rock had a lot of good life on it and they were very manageable size wise for smaller tanks.
Do you think I could get away with an addition of live sand from Tampa Bay Saltwater? I don't have much room for LR unfortunately and no sump (AIO). I've had similar issues with some strains of my zoas. Tank was started with dry rock/caribsea live sand and I think bolstering the microbial community would be beneficial.
 
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Curious if anyone has tried triton’s STN-X product for softies or zoas?

I believe in my tank I had some bacterial issue, acros had been overly sensitive and I was completely unable to keep euphyllia (they’d slowly melt, no obvious brown jelly)

I started an STN-X dosing, followed by the recommended month of daily dosing. In addition I started back up carbon dosing and dosing prodibio bacteria dosing.

The combined dosing had a significant effect. I noticed a positive change in growth and color. The one Acro that looked stressed recovered quickly. I also noticed less overall algae on rocks, less cyano growth on sand, etc.

The tank looked so good I decided to try a torch again after loosing two before. This one is thriving at the moment.

Obviously this is all anecdotal, but I did come across this thread talking about STN-X effect on tank microbiome.

Thread 'Triton STN-X | Impact on Microbiome'
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/triton-stn-x-impact-on-microbiome.715059/

Im dipping my feet into Zoas for the first time having just ordered some. So will follow this thread.
Interesting, but I do not know anything about this product and i couldn't find any info of the actual medication in it. Have/had you tried other bacterial products to treat your issues before using STN-X? I all but threw the kitchen sink at these Zoa's when it came to bacterial, fungal, and parasitic treatments including a few different anti-biotic treatments with no real success, but who is to say it was even a bacterial problem to begin with in my case.
 

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Interesting, but I do not know anything about this product and i couldn't find any info of the actual medication in it. Have/had you tried other bacterial products to treat your issues before using STN-X? I all but threw the kitchen sink at these Zoa's when it came to bacterial, fungal, and parasitic treatments including a few different anti-biotic treatments with no real success, but who is to say it was even a bacterial problem to begin with in my case.

I had used prodibio alone in the past, but without much success.

I do not know for certain what is in Tritons STN-X though they state “This product creates an environment within the aquarium that shocks the bacteria attacking the affected coral while, at the same time, providing specific elements that help to fortify the coral that is under attack”

Fauna Marin has a similar product, and they list zinc and capsaicin extract. I know capsaicin has been used in animal models to change intestinal flora balances and has shown efficacy against H pylori.

Again that’s Fauna Marin, not Triton. I can only say I have come to trust Triton even if they don’t disclose the ingredients on all their products, as they haven’t ever lied and their products generally do what they claim. I would also imagine that Fauna Marin probably analyzed tritons STN-X to come up with a competing product, but the Triton version is what I had on hand. Triton also state “STN-X does not contain any from of antibiotic or aggressive heavy metals and is safe to use with any reef system.”

If you have a chance, read through the linked thread. What’s interesting is that the product doesn’t act as an antibiotic, but instead seems to alter bacterial balance allowing some bacteria to outcompete others.

And as you say, it’s hard to know if bacteria were a problem. But I’ve started to wonder if the microbiome of the tank has a larger impact than most hobbyists appreciate especially for these mystery issues when nothing seems to help. Also we don’t have clear insight into how any of our other changes (consistent dosing like reef moonshiner) might be effecting it.
 

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Acropora rules.
It is sad to see but many reefers buy what they are told is the best.
In these cases it is the equipment that keep the water cleanest.
But many corals doesnt thrive in so nutrient defiecent waters.
I tell my customers to only have 1 turnover per hour through the sump and about one tank volume of air per hour into the skimmer. Dont use fleece filters ore aquarium computers.
In that way it is possible to have softies and Zoantides with most stone corals.
And when you examine the values you slowly get a feeling how they fit together.

But if you listen to the Acropora people and buy things for 10 times sump turnover and 3 times skimmer air intake your softies will starve to death.

Most corals need both organic nutrition and inorganic.
The best organic nutrition i believe is fish poop (corals are adapted to that since more than 100 million years) but many Amino bottles are also good.
I believe most of the big coral growers mix their own coral food of fish meat, shrimps, mussels and various other living things from the sea. And check the inorganic values too.

It is not a coincident that the zoanthids did recover in snoopdogs other tank with hang on back filter and no skimmer.
As I have reported in this thread, my tank has no filtration, no skimmer, no sump. Still zoa melting issues.
So this issue isnt found that easy, nor fixed.
That tank only made a partial recovery after a rip clean + fresh live rock.

I've also tried amino acids with no results. If it's actually organics that are missing then I doubt water soluble aminos will do much. There is no study present that proves any kind of benefit for corals except additional nitrogen. I think feeding frozen food would be more beneficial.

Still nothing of that seemed to matter wen it came to that zoa melting issue.
 
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My first ICP-MS test results are back which was a pleasant surprise. Overall the tank is in decent order still with a few trace element adjustments needed and Cobalt and Selenium being about the only truly depleted elements. I going to try small amount of copper dosing as well per the handbooks recommendation; wish me luck.
 

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My first ICP-MS test results are back which was a pleasant surprise. Overall the tank is in decent order still with a few trace element adjustments needed and Cobalt and Selenium being about the only truly depleted elements. I going to try small amount of copper dosing as well per the handbooks recommendation; wish me luck.
Good luck then. Your other ICP tests, before adding the live rock, were fine too thought, weren't they? Didn't you get a 99% test score or something like that?
 
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Good luck then. Your other ICP tests, before adding the live rock, were fine too thought, weren't they? Didn't you get a 99% test score or something like that?
Yes, most if not all of the ATI ICP tests were in the mid 90 percentile but I had one at 98% during the on-going issue. I am very certain there are all kinds of reasons that Zoa's will not do well, but I also firmly believe purely based on anecdotal observations that the mystery melt when everything appears to be in good order stems from some lack of trace element depletion or perhaps a wayward ionic imbalance that interrupts the Zoa's metabolic process. Just wish i knew what ones :)
 

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Yes, most if not all of the ATI ICP tests were in the mid 90 percentile but I had one at 98% during the on-going issue. I am very certain there are all kinds of reasons that Zoa's will not do well, but I also firmly believe purely based on anecdotal observations that the mystery melt when everything appears to be in good order stems from some lack of trace element depletion or perhaps a wayward ionic imbalance that interrupts the Zoa's metabolic process. Just wish i knew what ones :)
Well it's definitely not Iodine or Strontium. Because this are the two elements I'm dosing right now (old ICPs showed depletion). I still don't believe they are bioavailable or required elements for corals.

I can now say with certainty that my zoa issues have NOT been resolved.

Alien antivenons have now completely melted. So have Lord of the rings. Magicians are continuing to struggle. That's old news.

But now my gorilla nipples and fire and ice a grade are starting to show degeneration issues.

I still think that my tank is a lot more healthy since I did the restart but while most of my zoa colonies have recovered others that were doing fine earlier are struggling now. It's extremely frustrating.
 
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I have 5 tanks with many many zoas in them. THey range from wild colonies to aquacultured colonies for years. Items that might help(even if listed here)

Iodide dosing
many of mine do better in med indirect flow and med indirect light
Once I switched from dosing red sea 3 part and went to TM AFR, growth taken off for 60-70 pct of zoas regardless wild or cultured
Zoa eating nudis take a while to eat a whole colony. You will see a snake like pattern through your colony.

Things that caused healthy colonies to just closed up and eventually melt
Bacterial Infection
Rapid drop of phosphates caused either by water change, Phosphate RX or GFO
detritus/algae between polyps
rust in ICP test from rusted hinges from cabinet
LPS that BJD and led to a bacterial infection
Alk swings .7 and higher multiple times a week.
Protein Skimmer overflow/not set properly
Overload of corals in tank
Aiptasia within polyps
large imbalance between Nitrate and Phosphate
Tainted(expired food) added to tank as in AF Zoa Food
Low quality Phytoplankton

sometimes they are just ***** and one day you go in there and poof paste.

Just a list of things I noticed within my own systems. Feel free to reach out to me if you would like to discuss outside of the forum
 
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Well it's definitely not Iodine or Strontium. Because this are the two elements I'm dosing right now (old ICPs showed depletion). I still don't believe they are bioavailable or required elements for corals.

I can now say with certainty that my zoa issues have NOT been resolved.

Alien antivenons have now completely melted. So have Lord of the rings. Magicians are continuing to struggle. That's old news.

But now my gorilla nipples and fire and ice a grade are starting to show degeneration issues.

I still think that my tank is a lot more healthy since I did the restart but while most of my zoa colonies have recovered others that were doing fine earlier are struggling now. It's extremely frustrating.
Do you do Iodine daily, weekly or monthly out of curiosity?
 

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I did not read this whole thread but have you tested or investigated if your RO water is free of chlorine / chloramines ?
stray voltage ?
bad power head / wave maker magnet or return pump metal issue ?
any strong soap / fragrance smells or burning of scented candles and any other such routinely used household chemical items in house ?
just adding a few things to question.
 
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I did not read this whole thread but have you tested or investigated if your RO water is free of chlorine / chloramines ?
stray voltage ?
Yes, I have tested several times for stray voltage and even run grounding probes in the tanks. As far as Chloramines I have never done a personal test. I do run a 7 Stage RO/DI unit so one would hope that would never be the case but I guess a test or two couldn't hurt!
bad power head / wave maker magnet or return pump metal issue ?
Between the 20 or more ICP and ICP/MS test I have sent in one would assume it would have shown up if that were the case.
any strong soap / fragrance smells or burning of scented candles and any other such routinely used household chemical items in house
Candles for sure around the house, but the tanks are pretty much isolated in the basement, so I would say its not an issue.
just adding a few things to question.
 

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Do you do Iodine daily, weekly or monthly out of curiosity?
Daily. After you mentioned daily iodine dosing I thought it's worth a try. No dice.

Even better. it seems like I have introduced several pest into the restarted tank with the fresh live rock. First time I have to deal with bubble algae.
 
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Daily. After you mentioned daily iodine dosing I thought it's worth a try. No dice.

Even better. it seems like I have introduced several pest into the restarted tank with the fresh live rock. First time I have to deal with bubble algae.
Just for conversation, my large Zoa tank is using .8ml of iodine per day or about 16 drops. I assume most of that is being reduced by other processes than simply consumption but it was a lot higher than I was ever expecting; again, this is being verified by monthly ICP/MS. So what I am saying is iodine can still be depleted easily with only a few drops per day if you have the need for more. Also, the first few months of dosing Moonshiner's my Zoa tank needed a large amount of Boron, Bromine and Fluoride, all of which still need monthly correction doses. I feel like Fluoride was a big contributor to the initial turn around of the Zoa tank.

Do you have any ceramic bio media in the tank? I am starting to notice the exact same issues with my second tank that I did with my original zoa tank both of which started with the Marine Pure Bio Balls. Originally, there was no aluminum in the tank (again verified with many ICP tests) and then over time it just magically shows up around 150ug/l and holds that level even with various water changes. Secondly, just like my firs tank, some levels of trace elements magically jump off the charts. I have been doing monthly ICP/MS testing on both of my tanks as a part of the Moonshiners program and the tank that still had ceramic media went bananas with some levels being 4 or 5 times higher than targeted even though the week before there were deficient. This exact same thing happened in the first tank before I had moved all of the Marine Pure media out, Iodine with up to like .6 ppm in one month with the same dosage as the previous months. I think it binds and releases these elements to some degree over time just like with what I noticed with the aluminum levels randomly showing up, YMMV.
 

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Just for conversation, my large Zoa tank is using .8ml of iodine per day or about 16 drops. I assume most of that is being reduced by other processes than simply consumption but it was a lot higher than I was ever expecting; again, this is being verified by monthly ICP/MS. So what I am saying is iodine can still be depleted easily with only a few drops per day if you have the need for more. Also, the first few months of dosing Moonshiner's my Zoa tank needed a large amount of Boron, Bromine and Fluoride, all of which still need monthly correction doses. I feel like Fluoride was a big contributor to the initial turn around of the Zoa tank.

Do you have any ceramic bio media in the tank? I am starting to notice the exact same issues with my second tank that I did with my original zoa tank both of which started with the Marine Pure Bio Balls. Originally, there was no aluminum in the tank (again verified with many ICP tests) and then over time it just magically shows up around 150ug/l and holds that level even with various water changes. Secondly, just like my firs tank, some levels of trace elements magically jump off the charts. I have been doing monthly ICP/MS testing on both of my tanks as a part of the Moonshiners program and the tank that still had ceramic media went bananas with some levels being 4 or 5 times higher than targeted even though the week before there were deficient. This exact same thing happened in the first tank before I had moved all of the Marine Pure media out, Iodine with up to like .6 ppm in one month with the same dosage as the previous months. I think it binds and releases these elements to some degree over time just like with what I noticed with the aluminum levels randomly showing up, YMMV.
16 drops? What would be the recommend dosage. I am using 1 drop of Tropic Marin pro coral iodine. That's already more that recommend, but the bottle is quite old so I think some iodine is already inactive. The solution is still of amber color though.

I am a bit on the fence with my trace elements. Right now I am dosing an "all in one" solution but I'm not happy with it. I will also use fauna marine balling light trace elements in the future.

How do you test for iodine if it is inactive after one day? ICP is too slow for that, right? What product are you using for dosing?

No ceramic surface media, no skimmer.
Just a surface skimmer and sponge filter. These haven't been used right after the reboot but a bit later because I had issues with surface skin (is there an English word for that?) I doubt these are the issue though.
 
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I have 5 tanks with many many zoas in them. THey range from wild colonies to aquacultured colonies for years. Items that might help(even if listed here)

Iodide dosing
many of mine do better in med indirect flow and med indirect light
Once I switched from dosing red sea 3 part and went to TM AFR, growth taken off for 60-70 pct of zoas regardless wild or cultured
Zoa eating nudis take a while to eat a whole colony. You will see a snake like pattern through your colony.

Things that caused healthy colonies to just closed up and eventually melt
Bacterial Infection
Rapid drop of phosphates caused either by water change, Phosphate RX or GFO
detritus/algae between polyps
rust in ICP test from rusted hinges from cabinet
LPS that BJD and led to a bacterial infection
Alk swings .7 and higher multiple times a week.
Protein Skimmer overflow/not set properly
Overload of corals in tank
Aiptasia within polyps
large imbalance between Nitrate and Phosphate
Tainted(expired food) added to tank as in AF Zoa Food
Low quality Phytoplankton

sometimes they are just ***** and one day you go in there and poof paste.

Just a list of things I noticed within my own systems. Feel free to reach out to me if you would like to discuss outside of the forum
I have a colony rock (6 mos) with Palys and Zoas. The Zoas have grown steady from tiny volunteer pups. My mature Palys suddenly a month ago had a brown melt and now many seem to be struggling while the Zoas thrive. The colony rock has some vermetids but no other pests that I think affect corals. It's in a moderate flow 90 PAR area that aminos, flake and mysis pass thru.

Wondering if Im missing something.
 

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16 drops? What would be the recommend dosage. I am using 1 drop of Tropic Marin pro coral iodine. That's already more that recommend, but the bottle is quite old so I think some iodine is already inactive. The solution is still of amber color though.
I have seen a recommended starting dose of 3 drops per 100 gallons, but with my heavily stocked zoa tank I am going to be close to 1ml per day of Iodine to keep levels around .05/.07. My other Frag tank which is also 100 gallons just stocked less only needs about 7 drops per days for the same levels.
I am a bit on the fence with my trace elements. Right now I am dosing an "all in one" solution but I'm not happy with it. I will also use fauna marine balling light trace elements in the future.
What I have learned going through with the Moonshiners program is it is pretty obvious that some of these elements are quickly removed from from the system, whether it be from skimming, Carbon, or oxidative reduction. For example, my main tank needs 3ml per day of Manganese and Cobalt. I just do not believe that any "All in one" product could possible meet the unique demands like these for our tanks.
How do you test for iodine if it is inactive after one day? ICP is too slow for that, right? What product are you using for dosing?
Maintain daily dosage levels and do monthly ICP-MS testing until desired levels are reached and sustained. I have tried the Salifert Iodine kit but I feel like its pretty much garbage. I started with three drops and kept increasing after each ICP-MS test comes back low.
No ceramic surface media, no skimmer.
Just a surface skimmer and sponge filter. These haven't been used right after the reboot but a bit later because I had issues with surface skin (is there an English word for that?) I doubt these are the issue though.
 
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I have a colony rock (6 mos) with Palys and Zoas. The Zoas have grown steady from tiny volunteer pups. My mature Palys suddenly a month ago had a brown melt and now many seem to be struggling while the Zoas thrive. The colony rock has some vermetids but no other pests that I think affect corals. It's in a moderate flow 90 PAR area that aminos, flake and mysis pass thru.

Wondering if Im missing something.
90 par could be a little low for some species as they appear to be stretching a bit, but if they are closed up I've seen Zoas do the same thing even in high 180ish par; so who knows. It appears these frags are on your sand bed, and you said moderate flow, but can you post of a video of the flow maybe when you dose your Aminos? I am really starting to lean towards faulty flow patterns within some tanks that are leading to these mysterious melt backs, because at this point I have really dialed in my tanks and still have a few hiccups here and there. A common problem alot of us Zoa heads seem to have is some frags are dying while other a few inches away look like a million dollars; there has to be come kind of correlation with that.
 

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I have seen a recommended starting dose of 3 drops per 100 gallons, but with my heavily stocked zoa tank I am going to be close to 1ml per day of Iodine to keep levels around .05/.07. My other Frag tank which is also 100 gallons just stocked less only needs about 7 drops per days for the same levels.
That's the same recommended dosage as my bottle mentioned.

In that case you're definitely dosing significantly more than me. I have added the trace elements to my balling light system right now. If I don't see any improvement in one week I will test with ICP. Oes doesn't measure trace elements like rubidium though. MS does but is significantly more expensive. You are fine without measuring the low
amount trace elements?
 

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