New Guy on the Block (in Arizona) - Help

[Young@Heart]

I have the tank and the base. Both are solid and I foresee no issues, but the equipment is older than what I thought and I would be interested in looking at replacing the Sump, Pump, Protein Skimmer. Are there any specific recommendations that you have. I want to do this right and I am not sure how every thing goes together, so I will rely on you kind folks to guide me on this. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Happy Reefing.

 

[Young@Heart]

Developing plan to clean and refurbish base and canopy. Plumbing (sump and equipment) old want to replace it - afraid it will fail. Anyone with Equipment suggestions - please reply. I am continuing forward. Want to take my time and do this right.

 

[pettoe90]

Get a 20 gallon sump from petco and make a sump, I could tell you how, I believe they having the $1 a gallon sale again

 

[pettoe90]

I actually have one if you want to spot me $30 you can have it, the sump is few months old

Was going to cut the baffles out and use it for a temp for when I swap to my larger tank, but I can just go get me a 20 gal if you buy this one, it'll save me the work and make it easier for you

 

[Young@Heart]

What size sump do I need for a 180 Gallon Tank? Also what do I need to get started (Return Pump, Protein Skimmer, ---what else I would like to add other things as necessary) - Kinda of Vague I know.

 

[TMB]

Hello Young@Heart, I'm new to this forum - but not new to reefing. Been in this hobby for 20+ years and keep 2 reef tanks totaling over 500 gallons. (I'm also in AZ).
Here are some things to think about for start up:
IMO you will need a sump of at least 40 gallons - the drain back from a 180 could be in the neighborhood of 15 gallons. Probably less, but sumps that are too small are a PITA. I know from experience.
You should also consider incorporating an auto top off - the evaporation from a 180 will be ~ 10 gallons per week.
A large tank is a very different animal from a small one - planning is key.
You should also be considering what type of nutrient export mechanism you will be using, and plan that into your sump size needs as well.

If you want help deciding on what direction to go with anything else, posting pictures of the tank and stand will help.
We need to see the footprint - returns if any - space you're working with - could be other considerations, but hard to tell.

Hope this helps,
Tom

 

[pettoe90]

What size sump do I need for a 180 Gallon Tank? Also what do I need to get started (Return Pump, Protein Skimmer, ---what else I would like to add other things as necessary) - Kinda of Vague I know.

This sump would prolly be to small then i would say at least 40gallon sump that's what I upgraded to, also made my self. protein skimmers can go into another topic but honestly I would stick with about a $250 skimmer a lot of people like the sc skimmer which is $200 return pump you
Would need about 1500 ghp, there is cheaper pumps like rio pumps that would work or you can get a DC jebao pump for fairly cheap and they work good you don't need the skimmer To get it up and running so I would look at getting the pump and sump, you usually don't run a skimmer while the tank is cycling

You do want to keep in mind what skimmer you will be using if you decide to do a dyi sump, this way you can set the baffle for the correct water height for that skimmer. How much space do you have under the canopy

 

[Young@Heart]

Dimensions of the inside where the sump would go are: 22 inches in Height, 17 inches in Width, 55 inches in Length (It is a bit longer, but I am leaving room for my UPS. Also, I am not sure how it all goes together.

 

[Young@Heart]

Hello Young@Heart, I'm new to this forum - but not new to reefing. Been in this hobby for 20+ years and keep 2 reef tanks totaling over 500 gallons. (I'm also in AZ).
Here are some things to think about for start up:
IMO you will need a sump of at least 40 gallons - the drain back from a 180 could be in the neighborhood of 15 gallons. Probably less, but sumps that are too small are a PITA. I know from experience.
You should also consider incorporating an auto top off - the evaporation from a 180 will be ~ 10 gallons per week.
A large tank is a very different animal from a small one - planning is key.
You should also be considering what type of nutrient export mechanism you will be using, and plan that into your sump size needs as well.

If you want help deciding on what direction to go with anything else, posting pictures of the tank and stand will help.
We need to see the footprint - returns if any - space you're working with - could be other considerations, but hard to tell.

Hope this helps,
Tom

The Tank and the Base are apart for Cleaning and Refurb. I will post some pics soon.

 

[pettoe90]

Idk if it would be wide enough for a 40 breeder cause it's 18 wide

 

[Young@Heart]

I am fudging my number a bit to be conservative. It is 18.25 inches wide (not much wiggle room-should not need it though).

 

[pettoe90]

I am fudging my number a bit to be conservative. It is 18.25 inches wide (not much wiggle room-should not need it though).

It will fit then, and you will ha e room
On the side

 

[TMB]

If it will fit a 40b from petco would be an inexpensive option. If you go this route and want some free baffles let me know. I have a 40b sump that is cracked on the side and leaks but the baffles are fine. Just need to cut them out and silicone into the new one. You can have it.

I also agree with petoe90, you Need: a tank, sump, and return pump and plumbing to set this up and make it run. A skimmer could come later, but I would just do it now. Everything else is either a convience or to help with export once you have fish in there.

After that you can decide the direction for the tank - that will determine what lights and other support systems you will need to be successful.

HTH

 

[Young@Heart]

I am working on a list based on pettoe90 snd TMB's recommendations. I am also going to start looking for equipment. The part that is making me a bit nervous is the fact I have not done this before and I don't want to flood my house/living room. That said, I will post more information tonight with pics.

 

[TMB]

If you just take pics, and ask for input, we can help with whatever you need. It is possible to build a system that will never flood - barring human error of course.
I'm also happy to share pictures of my setup to help answer anything that comes up.
Just go slow, think it through, and ask questions, you'll be happy with the result.
Tom

 

[pettoe90]

Something's to consider when setting up the plumbing is make sure to have a check valve on the return to prevent back syphoning you can also drill a small hole in the return line in the overflow box to allow air to break syphon, the hole should be just below where you set the water level to. Other then that you should be Fine. I like running all my equipment inside the sump, this way if they do leak it'll just leak into the sump.

 

[pettoe90]

If you just take pics, and ask for input, we can help with whatever you need. It is possible to build a system that will never flood - barring human error of course.
I'm also happy to share pictures of my setup to help answer anything that comes up.
Just go slow, think it through, and ask questions, you'll be happy with the result.
Tom

Agree

 

[TMB]

Well... as far as check valves go, this is a plumbing no-no in my book. Please remember these are only my opinions, and I'm not one to think mine is the only way, it is not. Check valves will eventually leak, and relying on them will eventually cause a flood if the system is not designed to run without one. Making them useless in the first place.

It is very possible, and easy, to plumb your system so that when power is lost the sump does not flood and cannot drain the tank.

Please take no offense to my difference of opinion on this one, it is not meant that way.

 

[pettoe90]

Well... as far as check valves go, this is a plumbing no-no in my book. Please remember these are only my opinions, and I'm not one to think mine is the only way, it is not. Check valves will eventually leak, and relying on them will eventually cause a flood if the system is not designed to run without one. Making them useless in the first place.

It is very possible, and easy, to plumb your system so that when power is lost the sump does not flood and cannot drain the tank.

Please take no offense to my difference of opinion on this one, it is not meant that way.

None taken I run it as well as run small hole in return for syphon break, depending on where the return nozzles set and what the water level is set at your sump my be able to hold the water

 

[pettoe90]

If you decide to run a check valve, you should replace it once a year to make sure it doesn't leak