New line of UV sterilizers from Lifeguard

Baka Mop

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The higher end I've read for some white spots is 360,000 uw/cm2.
Wow I'm getting skin cancer just thinking about that.
spongebob squarepants eww GIF
 

Quietman

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Wow I'm getting skin cancer just thinking about that.
spongebob squarepants eww GIF
Yeah, when I read that I was a bit "whoa!'. But it's highest I've read and it was from a scientific article so included it. I no longer have the article link. Most recommendations I've seen fall between 90,000 and 180,000.

I shoot for running 180,000 at normal steady state tank ops but after reading that...if I get white spot at 180,000 I'm getting a pair a sunglass and some SPF50 and cranking the UV baby!
 

Baka Mop

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I got mines today and they have a new endcap that seals the quartz sleeve inside the housing so you can change out the bulb without draining and taking out the quartz sleeve. Unfortunately, I seem to have gotten the wrong quartz sleeve, because it doesn't fit the new endcap. I emailed lifegard at like 8pm and they actually got back to me and will send a replacement tomorrow. Still kind of a bummer, cause I was really hoping to get it up and running today.
Update to this.
It turns out the endcap was the problem and not the sleeve, due to a manufacturing defect. They sent me a replacement cap and sleeve today, and everything all fit nicely. Finally got the sterilizer set up and running. MarineAndReef and Lifegard Aquatics were quick to identify and solve my issue and I am very happy with this purchase.
 

Tangs-A-Lot

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The exposure rate is inversely proportional to the flow since it's based on time of exposure. So if the flow rate doubles the exposure rate is halved.

For the 55 watt unit - at 2200 GPH the exposure is 30,000 uw/cm2. The min for effective algae/bacteria control.

So for disease control you have to decide which exposure level recommendation you're going with. Minimum is 90,000 uw/cm2 to start and the higher end I've read for some white spots is 360,000 uw/cm2. So the flow rates for those are:

90,000uw/cm2 = 2200 gph/(90,000/30,000) = 2200 gph/3 = 733.33
180,000uw/cm2 = 2200gph/6 = 366.67gph
360,000uw/cm2 = 2200gph/12 = 183.33 gph

Now to add one more wrinkle which you hinted at. The filter turnover, how many times your tank volume passes through the UV filter at the specific flow rate to control population growth of bad organisms.

For some algae (some dinoflagellates) they can double population every 20 min. That's 8x per hour and the turnover should be 8x/hour as a goal.

For protozoa (disease) they reproduce much more slowly so 3x/hour and perhaps even 2x/hr will suffice for most.

So all that should give you the ranges of what you want to run and how you can make good choices if you need to trade off due to budget or size limitations. Very hard to run one UV for everything effectively for very large tanks (180 g or more).

Also will give you basis for comparing different manufacturers. Easy to put exposure/dollar.

All that said, I like to run one UV that is set at high enough flow rate to maintain any dinos under control (for me that's about 5x) with high enough exposure to expose any protozoa to at least 180,000 uw/cm2. I also like to have the ability if any breakouts occur to reduce flow to get me to 300,000uw/cm2 or better or support 30,000 uw/cm2 at 8x turnover. With DC pumps it's fairly easy to have adjust flow although the lower flow rates may require a discharge throttle valve.

Running on a return can be problematic as most aren't cranking 8x turnover and 2x turnover might be a bit thin but that's all part of the fun in setting up a reef tank. I'm running a return UV now, but it's a small tank. Going larger in a month and I'll have dedicated line.

Long post. It's a fairly straightforward process of calculation low and high ends, but it can seem a bit much. UV filters are expensive and selecting the right one is key. No one wants to drop $500 or $600 and then see dinos or white spot.

Good luck!
Hello, All. I just ordered a TMC Vecton Titan 550 for $189.99 from KeepinitReef.com. Hopefully it will work out as well as some research has said. For example:
 

Quietman

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Hello, All. I just ordered a TMC Vecton Titan 550 for $189.99 from KeepinitReef.com. Hopefully it will work out as well as some research has said. For example:
Let us know what you find after a few months of operation. Interesting design and marketing materials with "photocatalytic material". I wish TMC would have posted easily viewable exposure rates. Found one on a review aggregate site but generally don't trust those sources. But trusting recommended flow rates is probably comparable to trusting their measured exposure rates. Good luck!
 

Jackcarp

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I ordered the 40 watt unit from premium aquatics and received it really quick. I have been anticipating getting it hooked up quickly but when I received the unit, the box contained two bulbs instead of one bulb and a quartz sleeve. I contacted Lifegard and they offered to send me a Quartz sleeve after I return the extra bulb at my expense. Honestly I’ve been kind of fuming that I’d have to ship it back before they’d ship me a sleeve and at my expense. To add to my frustration, the nearest place to ship UPS is an hour away from me. I told them to forget it and I just bought a Quartz sleeve replacement so I guess I’ll have a spare bulb to change out.
Hopefully I can get it up and running quicker without having to replace any other parts.
IMG_0245.jpeg
 

OfficeReefer

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Interesting. I like the 45 degree pipes that are angled in (if you have the additional horizontal space, it looks like it would take up less height and probably improve overall flow).
Did I read 3" pipes and 2FT or more in length?

I could see use of this more so on my pool than tank. The pool has 3" pipes.
 

Treefer32

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I'm thinking of going oversized and using the 120 W version on my 340 gallon display (+ 75 gallon sump). I plan on running it off my return pump with a gate valve, 2 Y splitters and flow meter to monitor flow rate off the UV. I believe the inputs and outputs are 3". The question I have is there is no 1.5" flow meter (goes from 1" to 2"). If I go to the 2" inch and adapt my 1.5" plumbing to 2" for the flow meter then to 3" for the UV itself and a gate valve on the output of the UV into my return plumbing. Would the flow meter be semi accurate. I'm shooting for the 1333 gph for parasites. I would guestimate my flow to my display is around 2000gph. So, I wouldn't have to back it off much, but, some.

1333 gph would be around 4 x my 340 turnover. I want parasites that can no longer reproduce quickly and continuously!

At 3-4 X tank turnover, would most everything be sterilized in the matter of a few days? What's left to sterilize after months if nothing new is added?
 

Baka Mop

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I ordered the 40 watt unit from premium aquatics and received it really quick. I have been anticipating getting it hooked up quickly but when I received the unit, the box contained two bulbs instead of one bulb and a quartz sleeve. I contacted Lifegard and they offered to send me a Quartz sleeve after I return the extra bulb at my expense. Honestly I’ve been kind of fuming that I’d have to ship it back before they’d ship me a sleeve and at my expense. To add to my frustration, the nearest place to ship UPS is an hour away from me. I told them to forget it and I just bought a Quartz sleeve replacement so I guess I’ll have a spare bulb to change out.
Hopefully I can get it up and running quicker without having to replace any other parts.
IMG_0245.jpeg
Dang that's unfortunate. I bought mine through marine and reef and also had an issue with a bad endcap, but marine&reef and lifegard solved it quickly and sent me a new part overnight and a new sleeve cause the bad cap made it break.
I guess on the bright side, you basically got a nice discount on the replacement bulb. Whoever's been packing the latest shipment of sterilizers is definitely slacking over there.
 

buruskeee

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Hello, All. I just ordered a TMC Vecton Titan 550 for $189.99 from KeepinitReef.com. Hopefully it will work out as well as some research has said. For example:
Any updates? I’m looking at the same unit.
 

Tangs-A-Lot

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Any updates? I’m looking at the same unit.
I am brand new to the hobby. I don’t chase numbers. Not doing too bad, not doing great. Learning bit by bit as I go, from mistakes and successes. I won’t be able to give an accurate assessment for a long time. Also, ignore all of the above, it’s only been set up for 5 days.

One thing I will say, it is longer than other brands.
 

Reef1589

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maybe im overthinking this...

but what is everyone using for a reducer or does the unit come with reducers itself?
i saw someone in here say be mindful of how you setup/glue your reducers, so im just trying to make sure i dont mess this up haha..

most of my plumbing on my tank is 1''
so all im picturing is a long line of reducers put together lol..
unless theres a 3'' to 1'' that im not finding?

P.S. im not a great plumber ha
 
OP
OP
vetteguy53081

vetteguy53081

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maybe im overthinking this...

but what is everyone using for a reducer or does the unit come with reducers itself?
i saw someone in here say be mindful of how you setup/glue your reducers, so im just trying to make sure i dont mess this up haha..

most of my plumbing on my tank is 1''
so all im picturing is a long line of reducers put together lol..
unless theres a 3'' to 1'' that im not finding?

P.S. im not a great plumber ha
Reducers do work and are easy to construct with the right pieces
 

Reef1589

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MarineandReef Jaron

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maybe im overthinking this...

but what is everyone using for a reducer or does the unit come with reducers itself?
i saw someone in here say be mindful of how you setup/glue your reducers, so im just trying to make sure i dont mess this up haha..

most of my plumbing on my tank is 1''
so all im picturing is a long line of reducers put together lol..
unless theres a 3'' to 1'' that im not finding?

P.S. im not a great plumber ha
This is the plumbing kit you need.

 

Reef1589

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holy cow...did anyone else blowout the oring trying to push the quartz sleeve in? what is the trick there?
 

Reef1589

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after watching the installation video, i realized their instructions they send are the most unclear instructions in the world.

pretty sure i messed up the quartz sleeve. as its now stuck on the clear part of it and wrecked the oring trying to push it all together, instead of just sliding it all in from the back end.
 

Semper.Reefing

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Hey everyone! I just scored a 2 month old 55w promax. I bought a jebao dcp8000 and was planning to run it 100% (2110gph) from the display. About 5ft head height and 3 elbows returning it to the display. From what I understand from Lifegard, it’s 2100gph max for bacteria/algae control.

Does this sound like an ok plan? I just want to confirm that I’m on the right track. And if not, please throw me some suggestions!

Thank you and happy reefing!
 

Quietman

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Hey everyone! I just scored a 2 month old 55w promax. I bought a jebao dcp8000 and was planning to run it 100% (2110gph) from the display. About 5ft head height and 3 elbows returning it to the display. From what I understand from Lifegard, it’s 2100gph max for bacteria/algae control.

Does this sound like an ok plan? I just want to confirm that I’m on the right track. And if not, please throw me some suggestions!

Thank you and happy reefing!
For effective control of certain bacteria/algae that double population in 20 min (ostreopsis for ex). You'll also want to have an 8x turnover rate for you tank during an outbreak. You can run lower with no active outbreak for control (I've had active and once under control, dropped turnover to 4 or 5x with no return). Also, if you want protozoa control (disease) you'll need to drop the flow by 1/6th to get the 180K uw/cm2 exposure (turnover not as important due to slow reproduction rates). Again, only during outbreaks is that required to eliminate. The 'maintenance' flow can be less IME.
 

Semper.Reefing

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For effective control of certain bacteria/algae that double population in 20 min (ostreopsis for ex). You'll also want to have an 8x turnover rate for you tank during an outbreak. You can run lower with no active outbreak for control (I've had active and once under control, dropped turnover to 4 or 5x with no return). Also, if you want protozoa control (disease) you'll need to drop the flow by 1/6th to get the 180K uw/cm2 exposure (turnover not as important due to slow reproduction rates). Again, only during outbreaks is that required to eliminate. The 'maintenance' flow can be less IME.
Thank you for clarifying! My system is roughly 245-250g so I think I’ll be fine with this pump. I’ll eventually get a flow sensor.
 

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