Wow I'm getting skin cancer just thinking about that.The higher end I've read for some white spots is 360,000 uw/cm2.
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Wow I'm getting skin cancer just thinking about that.The higher end I've read for some white spots is 360,000 uw/cm2.
Yeah, when I read that I was a bit "whoa!'. But it's highest I've read and it was from a scientific article so included it. I no longer have the article link. Most recommendations I've seen fall between 90,000 and 180,000.Wow I'm getting skin cancer just thinking about that.
Update to this.I got mines today and they have a new endcap that seals the quartz sleeve inside the housing so you can change out the bulb without draining and taking out the quartz sleeve. Unfortunately, I seem to have gotten the wrong quartz sleeve, because it doesn't fit the new endcap. I emailed lifegard at like 8pm and they actually got back to me and will send a replacement tomorrow. Still kind of a bummer, cause I was really hoping to get it up and running today.
Hello, All. I just ordered a TMC Vecton Titan 550 for $189.99 from KeepinitReef.com. Hopefully it will work out as well as some research has said. For example:The exposure rate is inversely proportional to the flow since it's based on time of exposure. So if the flow rate doubles the exposure rate is halved.
For the 55 watt unit - at 2200 GPH the exposure is 30,000 uw/cm2. The min for effective algae/bacteria control.
So for disease control you have to decide which exposure level recommendation you're going with. Minimum is 90,000 uw/cm2 to start and the higher end I've read for some white spots is 360,000 uw/cm2. So the flow rates for those are:
90,000uw/cm2 = 2200 gph/(90,000/30,000) = 2200 gph/3 = 733.33
180,000uw/cm2 = 2200gph/6 = 366.67gph
360,000uw/cm2 = 2200gph/12 = 183.33 gph
Now to add one more wrinkle which you hinted at. The filter turnover, how many times your tank volume passes through the UV filter at the specific flow rate to control population growth of bad organisms.
For some algae (some dinoflagellates) they can double population every 20 min. That's 8x per hour and the turnover should be 8x/hour as a goal.
For protozoa (disease) they reproduce much more slowly so 3x/hour and perhaps even 2x/hr will suffice for most.
So all that should give you the ranges of what you want to run and how you can make good choices if you need to trade off due to budget or size limitations. Very hard to run one UV for everything effectively for very large tanks (180 g or more).
Also will give you basis for comparing different manufacturers. Easy to put exposure/dollar.
All that said, I like to run one UV that is set at high enough flow rate to maintain any dinos under control (for me that's about 5x) with high enough exposure to expose any protozoa to at least 180,000 uw/cm2. I also like to have the ability if any breakouts occur to reduce flow to get me to 300,000uw/cm2 or better or support 30,000 uw/cm2 at 8x turnover. With DC pumps it's fairly easy to have adjust flow although the lower flow rates may require a discharge throttle valve.
Running on a return can be problematic as most aren't cranking 8x turnover and 2x turnover might be a bit thin but that's all part of the fun in setting up a reef tank. I'm running a return UV now, but it's a small tank. Going larger in a month and I'll have dedicated line.
Long post. It's a fairly straightforward process of calculation low and high ends, but it can seem a bit much. UV filters are expensive and selecting the right one is key. No one wants to drop $500 or $600 and then see dinos or white spot.
Good luck!
Let us know what you find after a few months of operation. Interesting design and marketing materials with "photocatalytic material". I wish TMC would have posted easily viewable exposure rates. Found one on a review aggregate site but generally don't trust those sources. But trusting recommended flow rates is probably comparable to trusting their measured exposure rates. Good luck!Hello, All. I just ordered a TMC Vecton Titan 550 for $189.99 from KeepinitReef.com. Hopefully it will work out as well as some research has said. For example:
The Best Aquarium UV Sterilizer (2024 Reviews) - Find What Works And What Is Affordable
<span>The UV Sterilizer is one of the most praised and most critiqued piece of equipment in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. It's easy to see what because the quality of the sterilizer differs greatly and many people do not know the difference. It's easy to just purchase a cheap UV...aquariumstoredepot.com
Did I read 3" pipes and 2FT or more in length?Interesting. I like the 45 degree pipes that are angled in (if you have the additional horizontal space, it looks like it would take up less height and probably improve overall flow).
Dang that's unfortunate. I bought mine through marine and reef and also had an issue with a bad endcap, but marine&reef and lifegard solved it quickly and sent me a new part overnight and a new sleeve cause the bad cap made it break.I ordered the 40 watt unit from premium aquatics and received it really quick. I have been anticipating getting it hooked up quickly but when I received the unit, the box contained two bulbs instead of one bulb and a quartz sleeve. I contacted Lifegard and they offered to send me a Quartz sleeve after I return the extra bulb at my expense. Honestly I’ve been kind of fuming that I’d have to ship it back before they’d ship me a sleeve and at my expense. To add to my frustration, the nearest place to ship UPS is an hour away from me. I told them to forget it and I just bought a Quartz sleeve replacement so I guess I’ll have a spare bulb to change out.
Hopefully I can get it up and running quicker without having to replace any other parts.
Any updates? I’m looking at the same unit.Hello, All. I just ordered a TMC Vecton Titan 550 for $189.99 from KeepinitReef.com. Hopefully it will work out as well as some research has said. For example:
The Best Aquarium UV Sterilizer (2024 Reviews) - Find What Works And What Is Affordable
<span>The UV Sterilizer is one of the most praised and most critiqued piece of equipment in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. It's easy to see what because the quality of the sterilizer differs greatly and many people do not know the difference. It's easy to just purchase a cheap UV...aquariumstoredepot.com
I am brand new to the hobby. I don’t chase numbers. Not doing too bad, not doing great. Learning bit by bit as I go, from mistakes and successes. I won’t be able to give an accurate assessment for a long time. Also, ignore all of the above, it’s only been set up for 5 days.Any updates? I’m looking at the same unit.
Reducers do work and are easy to construct with the right piecesmaybe im overthinking this...
but what is everyone using for a reducer or does the unit come with reducers itself?
i saw someone in here say be mindful of how you setup/glue your reducers, so im just trying to make sure i dont mess this up haha..
most of my plumbing on my tank is 1''
so all im picturing is a long line of reducers put together lol..
unless theres a 3'' to 1'' that im not finding?
P.S. im not a great plumber ha
Reducers do work and are easy to construct with the right pieces
This is the plumbing kit you need.maybe im overthinking this...
but what is everyone using for a reducer or does the unit come with reducers itself?
i saw someone in here say be mindful of how you setup/glue your reducers, so im just trying to make sure i dont mess this up haha..
most of my plumbing on my tank is 1''
so all im picturing is a long line of reducers put together lol..
unless theres a 3'' to 1'' that im not finding?
P.S. im not a great plumber ha
For effective control of certain bacteria/algae that double population in 20 min (ostreopsis for ex). You'll also want to have an 8x turnover rate for you tank during an outbreak. You can run lower with no active outbreak for control (I've had active and once under control, dropped turnover to 4 or 5x with no return). Also, if you want protozoa control (disease) you'll need to drop the flow by 1/6th to get the 180K uw/cm2 exposure (turnover not as important due to slow reproduction rates). Again, only during outbreaks is that required to eliminate. The 'maintenance' flow can be less IME.Hey everyone! I just scored a 2 month old 55w promax. I bought a jebao dcp8000 and was planning to run it 100% (2110gph) from the display. About 5ft head height and 3 elbows returning it to the display. From what I understand from Lifegard, it’s 2100gph max for bacteria/algae control.
Does this sound like an ok plan? I just want to confirm that I’m on the right track. And if not, please throw me some suggestions!
Thank you and happy reefing!
Thank you for clarifying! My system is roughly 245-250g so I think I’ll be fine with this pump. I’ll eventually get a flow sensor.For effective control of certain bacteria/algae that double population in 20 min (ostreopsis for ex). You'll also want to have an 8x turnover rate for you tank during an outbreak. You can run lower with no active outbreak for control (I've had active and once under control, dropped turnover to 4 or 5x with no return). Also, if you want protozoa control (disease) you'll need to drop the flow by 1/6th to get the 180K uw/cm2 exposure (turnover not as important due to slow reproduction rates). Again, only during outbreaks is that required to eliminate. The 'maintenance' flow can be less IME.