Please add your best woodworking tips here!

[jlanger]

Do any of you secure frames from the inside, e.g. the screws inside the frame? Is this a bad idea for a saltwater tank?

If I need to use a screw that will be exposed inside the stand, I countersink the screw head about ⅛" and then use a wood filler to cover it up; the screw is completely safe from any contact with saltwater.

 

[bobman]

Dont me like me I cut this board 3 time and its still to short

 

[fragit]

Dont me like me I cut this board 3 time and its still to short

Get out the board stretcher!

 

[fragit]

Do any of you secure frames from the inside, e.g. the screws inside the frame? Is this a bad idea for a saltwater tank?

Your design should be such that any weight is being supported by wood. So like to top framing of your stand should be supported by an upright piece of wood not fastners like screws. Screws should be used to hold pieces together. I personally like using hex/or star head screw for decking, they are water proof and will not strip like regular sheet rock screw. Sheet rock screw are also very weak and cannot support any kind of weight. I usually try and screw from the outside, because it's easier and you can be more accurate than trying to awkwardly get inside you stand. I then fill any screw holes with bondo and sand nice a flush, again bondo is water proof so no worries there. Clamping pieces together and predrilling not necissarily counter sinking is a good idea too, wood wont crack and drilling cuts versus moving the wood grain so you pieces are more likely to stay where you want them to rather than just driving a screw into it. Additionally if you do pre drill, use a bit way smaller than your screw, you need enough meat for the screw to bite into!

 

[dbl]

I am by no means an expert, but there's been a lot of great advice so far. Quality equipment is key, even if that means putting off a purchase to let the savings catch up to your desires. That goes for power equipment as well as clamps, jigs, blades, bits, etc. You'll be shocked how much easier it is to use quality equipment, and you'll find it worth the wait. Yes, things can be expensive, but if you're reading this, you're already involved in what can be an expensive hobby, and delayed gratification. In my case, it's a jointer - have you priced a decent one lately?

Other thoughts also mirror what's already been mentioned. Quality stock to begin with will yield a much finer end product. I've also found them easier to work with, assuming you've gathered quality tools. And remember, whether you're painting or staining, a well prepared surface is a must. "Don't skip the grit" mentioned above is very good advise. We all get anxious to "get this thing done" and this final prep step is critical, so don't rush it here.

The other thing I will mention is a well designed, structured and organized work space and surface. I do not have a dedicated workshop at this point. But I do have a very solid, and pretty flat work surface that I use. Again, what ever makes things easier on you, the better end results you will enjoy.

Lastly, don't forget about safety. Put those uncomfortable, dog-gone safety goggles on so you can end up seeing your final product!!!!

 

[s2nhle]

I second finding a good lumber shop. I have one down the street and for a small fee they helped me level and plane my base. They have the best equipment and a ton of knowledge. I paid to have them cut my wood and it's dead on accurate.

+1 the base is more important. Lesson learned from mistake, i now pay more attention to the base building.

 

[KingTriton]

Is this for the breeder?

I'm finishing up my breeder stand hopefully tomorrow since I had to order the exterior pocket screws online.

My advice... Use 1x4 or 1x6 with plywood on the exterior. 2x4 is overbuilding it and I find it harder to work with. I like to drill pilot holes with my Kreg.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J43A7W/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_of_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41auGxMjmXL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100,82_&refRID=0YFC9YYAB70D3BAPSBBA

In regards to screw exposure.. I glue these in place where I drill.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GHLZ1K/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_of_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ED421CPEL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100,100_&refRID=0NHZWESK2X03QBESGZ0C

I cut the plywood with a circular table saw using a DIY guide. See video below.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/circular-saws/how-to-use-a-circular-saw-long-cuts/view-all

Before screwing or drill anything I double check to match sure the 1x4s match the plywoods height by laying them over one another. I usually have to go back and cut a few boards. At the end the measurements are identical leaving little room for error.

Before screwing I glue and clamp the boards together where I want them placed to prevent any and all movement while drilling.

 

[timkenagy]

Measure twice, measure a couple more times, then do it once more... Then cut...

I've found that measure once, buy new wood works too!

 

[timkenagy]

I had never done any wood working until I got an estimate to build my stand/canopy. :/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-custom-180.115388/

I actually surprised myself on how well it turned out!

 

[Pepcrylic]

All good advice above.
No one has yet to mention lighting. You cant see it... You cant mark it. Get good lighting to your work area. Daylight is best.
I have also found that prepping extra stock to set up your joint machining is a good idea.
You can NEVER have enough clamps.
May your goals attainable . Dont try to build a complicated piece that is way over your skill level.
Above all be safe!!!
Buy 3-4 12' tape measures and place them around the work area. It will save you time looking for your 1 tape. Same with pencils scatter a half dozen of them around.
My favorite most useful tool is a 9'' jet bench top band saw. I would be lost with out it. (or I would spend way to much time changing blades on the 18'' bandsaw)

 

[glb]

All good advice above.
No one has yet to mention lighting. You cant see it... You cant mark it. Get good lighting to your work area. Daylight is best.
I have also found that prepping extra stock to set up your joint machining is a good idea.
You can NEVER have enough clamps.
May your goals attainable . Dont try to build a complicated piece that is way over your skill level.
Above all be safe!!!
Buy 3-4 12' tape measures and place them around the work area. It will save you time looking for your 1 tape. Same with pencils scatter a half dozen of them around.
My favorite most useful tool is a 9'' jet bench top band saw. I would be lost with out it. (or I would spend way to much time changing blades on the 18'' bandsaw)

+1 on having more than one of the common tools. Screwdrivers, tape measures, clamps, etc. There's nothing worse than being in the middle of a project and not being able to find a tool.

 

[NHreefguy]

Since I got the kreg jig life has been so easy. I built all my kitchen cabinets with it last month

 

[kschweer]

Since I got the kreg jig life has been so easy. I built all my kitchen cabinets with it last month

Love my kreg jig! Great job on the kitchen.

 

[NHreefguy]

Love my kreg jig! Great job on the kitchen.

Thanks! Didn't see that beer in the pick haha.

 

[wcharon]

I hope my question doesn't get his great and informative thread out of topic.

Can you recommend me a good portable bench saw for a newbie??? It needs to be portable as i don't have much space for storage and leaving it permanent.

Thanks in advance...

 

[dbl]

...Can you recommend me a good portable bench saw for a newbie??? It needs to be portable as i don't have much space for storage and leaving it permanent...

I will assume you mean portable table saw. If so, I would recommend one with a stand, possibly with wheels, as opposed to an actual table top version. I think you'll find it much more stable and easier to use. When you're done, fold it up and roll it out of the way.

In my opinion, the most important part of the table saw is the fence. If the fence isn't any good, neither will your cuts be. If I had to make a recommendation, I would suggest the Bosch 4100-09. I used to have a portable DeWalt and it was fine. However, I had the opportunity to try the Bosch and I was surprised how nice it was for a portable table saw. In fact, I almost bought one myself. You can certainly get less expensive models, but remember one important theme of this thread so far - quality tools are a key to success when it comes to working with dead trees!

As I said earlier, I'm not expert, so I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions as well.

 

[NHreefguy]

I have a porter cable portable table saw. I got an 80 tooth carbide blade for my crosscuts. Works great for me.

 

[143MPCo]

I hope my question doesn't get his great and informative thread out of topic.

Can you recommend me a good portable bench saw for a newbie??? It needs to be portable as i don't have much space for storage and leaving it permanent.

Thanks in advance...

I'm no master craftsmen but, I try an play one on TV...

...after years with a brand that I'm too embarrassed to mention, I'm biting the bullet and going with a DELTA 13-Amp 10-in table saw, the saw has attached wheels so you can say it's "portable" but, that's not why I want it. I also will only ever run diablo saw blades in any of my saws; 15yrs working on odds and ends in woodworking and they're the best I have used.

 

[glb]

I've decided to have the lumber shop do work that involves expensive equipment and higher skill. It doesn't cost that much. I do 95% of the work, and they do stuff like planing. Plus they have great advice on everything. I don't have any room in my house for a workshop so this is a great compromise for me.

 

[NHreefguy]

+1 on Diablo blades