Please identify this disease on my clownfish

ReeferHolland

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Can someone please identify this disease?
An exact similar second spot has appeared after a week I noticed the first one.
The second spot is not on the pictures but it's 2mm next to the other one on the pictures.

Also one of the bottom finns has a crack and a slight color difference in the cracks now

In a previous thread someone suggested it was damaged tissue from fighting, but now im questioning that because a second spot appeared.

Screenshot_20221128-164123_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20221128-164050_Gallery.jpg
 
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And about previous post; I want to put a ricordea florida, a torch, and an anemone in the QT.
So I can just put the clown with spots into the DT? And then use my QT tank for the corals?
I dont have a cycled QT, does it matter for corals?

I would not put your corals into a sterile tank that is not cycled.

I always QT my corals in a tank with established live rock and happy coral flow/lighting.

I have seen people try to QT corals in tanks that are sterile and it often does not end well for anything sensitive. Acro's for sure died on people... the torch and nem are more sensitive and won't be happy in an uncycled tank devoid of natural reef habitat.

Qting a coral and invert should have the same set up/requirements of the...

Tamberav

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possibly lympho, especially since you say there is one on the fins

 
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ReeferHolland

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possibly lympho, especially since you say there is one on the fins

Not exactly, there's no white spot on the finns, but just damage on one of the bottom finns, a crack with some color difference.

There are 2 spots next to each other right above his lips (picture is from 1 week ago so just one white spot on the picture. Sorry for the confusion
 
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Tamberav

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Not exactly, there's no white spot on the finns, but just damage on one of the bottom finns, a crack with some color difference.

There are 2 spots next to each other right above his lips (picture is from 1 week ago so just one white spot on the picture. Sorry for the confusion

Oh my bad, I misunderstood. The fins sounds like maybe some damage to the fin, they should heal quickly, if it seems to be further deteriorating then something bacterial in involved.

When you say the spots are right next to each other... are we talking about the clowns nostrils? :) It could be mucus if so. Lympho would still be my other suspect.
 
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ReeferHolland

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Oh my bad, I misunderstood. The fins sounds like maybe some damage to the fin, they should heal quickly, if it seems to be further deteriorating then something bacterial in involved.

When you say the spots are right next to each other... are we talking about the clowns nostrils? :) It could be mucus if so. Lympho would still be my other suspect.
Could something bacterial be the result of a bacterial bloom in the water column?

And, I think its not the nostrills because the second white spot is at an unlogic place 2mm above the first spot.

So if it's lympho, how can I find out its 100% lympho?

And don't you think it's flukes?

Thanks for the help!
 
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Tamberav

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Could something bacterial be the result of a bacterial bloom in the water column?

And, I think its not the nostrills because the second white spot is at an unlogic place 2mm above the first spot.

So if it's lympho, how can I find out its 100% lympho?

And don't you think it's flukes?

Thanks for the help!

Flukes can not be seen to the naked eye except for one type (I believe) and It does not appear to be that. They are semi transulcent almost flatworm looking but it is hard to tell from the picture so you would be a better judge then me.

gill-flukes-reefs-1-300x189.jpg


There should be a sticky in the disease forum for a freshwater dip which can dislodge flukes. Lympho can fall off fairly easy too just in general.

If the tank is having a bacterial bloom there may be a water quality issue which can cause the fish to get bacterial infections.

Prazipro also treats flukes but it can cause a bacterial bloom and sounds like you already have that going? Have to be carful of bacterial blooms lowering oxygen.
 
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ReeferHolland

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Flukes can not be seen to the naked eye except for one type (I believe) and It does not appear to be that. They are semi transulcent almost flatworm looking but it is hard to tell from the picture so you would be a better judge then me.

gill-flukes-reefs-1-300x189.jpg


There should be a sticky in the disease forum for a freshwater dip which can dislodge flukes. Lympho can fall off fairly easy too just in general.

If the tank is having a bacterial bloom there may be a water quality issue which can cause the fish to get bacterial infections.

Prazipro also treats flukes but it can cause a bacterial bloom and sounds like you already have that going? Have to be carful of bacterial blooms lowering oxygen.

Yes I have/had a bacterial bloom going but it's in my QT tank so I manage it by very frequent water changes so it shouldn't be something to worry about, right?

So if I'm correct the next steps then would be: fresh water dip, clean and desinfect tank, put the fish back in, treat with prazipro, wait 3 more weeks?

Or can I skip the prazipro if the stuff falls off after fresh water dipping?

Btw, I live in the Netherlands and I don't know where to buy Prazipro. It doesn't seem to be available here.
 
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Tamberav

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Yes I have/had a bacterial bloom going but it's in my QT tank so I manage it by very frequent water changes so it shouldn't be something to worry about, right?

So if I'm correct the next steps then would be: fresh water dip, clean and desinfect tank, put the fish back in, treat with prazipro, wait 3 more weeks?

Or can I skip the prazipro if the stuff falls off after fresh water dipping?

Btw, I live in the Netherlands and I don't know where to buy Prazipro. It doesn't seem to be available here.

You still want to treat with prazipro if it is flukes, dip probably won't get them all, also eggs hatch and need a second treatment a week later. I don't think it is flukes though. Does the fish scratch or twitch it's head? (not the mating dance type of twitch).

They do sell something similar I believe but I think it is a higher dose.

I would probably just monitor if you don't have any other signs of disease and just a random lump or two on the nose. See if they fall off on their own and if the fins are healing.
 
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ReeferHolland

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You still want to treat with prazipro if it is flukes, dip probably won't get them all, also eggs hatch and need a second treatment a week later. I don't think it is flukes though. Does the fish scratch or twitch it's head? (not the mating dance type of twitch).

They do sell something similar I believe but I think it is a higher dose.

I would probably just monitor if you don't have any other signs of disease and just a random lump or two on the nose. See if they fall off on their own and if the fins are healing.
I just gave both my clownfish a fresh water dip. Not sure if it was the right decision after reading this, but they seem fine. I put the other one in the DT he looks perfect and he didn't have any symptoms after 4 weeks qt.

The one with the lumps is back into the QT tank. I will monitor and see if it heals.

I only have one QT but my DT water is stable for corals. But I want to QT them first. Can I put corals in the QT with the clownfish that has the lumps?
 
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I just gave both my clownfish a fresh water dip. Not sure if it was the right decision after reading this, but they seem fine. I put the other one in the DT he looks perfect and he didn't have any symptoms after 4 weeks qt.

The one with the lumps is back into the QT tank. I will monitor and see if it heals.

I only have one QT but my DT water is stable for corals. But I want to QT them first. Can I put corals in the QT with the clownfish that has the lumps?

No worries, the FW bath shouldn't be an issue. Healthy fish tolerate it pretty well. If the spots did not fall off then I think we can assume it is not flukes. I would not add corals to the QT with the clownfish. The corals can carry fish disease. I honestly would just transfer him over to the DT with his friend since you moved the other clown. If there was anything contagious, they would both have it. Lympho isn't something we treat typically.. it just goes away on it's own. I suppose worse case is his fin doesn't heal and get worse and you would have to catch him to treat it but at the same time.. if the display is more stable then the QT then it will help him heal up.

What type of corals are you planning to QT?

I QT corals but do it in a small fishless tank that has live rock and basically all things corals love minus fish.
 
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ReeferHolland

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No worries, the FW bath shouldn't be an issue. Healthy fish tolerate it pretty well. If the spots did not fall off then I think we can assume it is not flukes. I would not add corals to the QT with the clownfish. The corals can carry fish disease. I honestly would just transfer him over to the DT with his friend since you moved the other clown. If there was anything contagious, they would both have it. Lympho isn't something we treat typically.. it just goes away on it's own. I suppose worse case is his fin doesn't heal and get worse and you would have to catch him to treat it but at the same time.. if the display is more stable then the QT then it will help him heal up.

What type of corals are you planning to QT?

I QT corals but do it in a small fishless tank that has live rock and basically all things corals love minus fish.

Here are some new pictures of the clown. I hope maybe you can give a more certain identification now?
 

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Here are some new pictures of the clown. I hope maybe you can give a more certain identification now?

And I want to put a ricordea florida, a torch, and an anemone in the QT.
So I can just put the clown into the DT? And then use my QT tank for the corals?
I dont have a cycled QT, does it matter for corals?
 
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ReeferHolland

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It doesn't look like anything to worry about

@Jay Hemdal might have a thought
And about previous post; I want to put a ricordea florida, a torch, and an anemone in the QT.
So I can just put the clown with spots into the DT? And then use my QT tank for the corals?
I dont have a cycled QT, does it matter for corals?
 
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Jay Hemdal

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It doesn't look like anything to worry about

@Jay Hemdal might have a thought
I read through the thread - I don’t think this is anything to worry about, just watch that it doesn’t grow larger.
I don’t hunk it is lymphocystis or flukes, more likely a bump injury or from grappling with the other clown.
Jay
 
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ReeferHolland

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I read through the thread - I don’t think this is anything to worry about, just watch that it doesn’t grow larger.
I don’t hunk it is lymphocystis or flukes, more likely a bump injury or from grappling with the other clown.
Jay
Good to know, thanks! This can keep me move forward much faster
 
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And about previous post; I want to put a ricordea florida, a torch, and an anemone in the QT.
So I can just put the clown with spots into the DT? And then use my QT tank for the corals?
I dont have a cycled QT, does it matter for corals?

I would not put your corals into a sterile tank that is not cycled.

I always QT my corals in a tank with established live rock and happy coral flow/lighting.

I have seen people try to QT corals in tanks that are sterile and it often does not end well for anything sensitive. Acro's for sure died on people... the torch and nem are more sensitive and won't be happy in an uncycled tank devoid of natural reef habitat.

Qting a coral and invert should have the same set up/requirements of the display tank. The only difference, is lack of fish so you may need to supplement feeding. I set mine up with similar lighting even so there would be no lighting stress going from QT to DT.

You can put some dry rock in your sump or media in your sump to seed it for a few weeks to help. I put some actual established rock in mine that was covered in life/coralline and it made QTing anything super easy.

People set up fresh frag tanks at shows but these are for a few days and not weeks.
 
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ReeferHolland

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I would not put your corals into a sterile tank that is not cycled.

I always QT my corals in a tank with established live rock and happy coral flow/lighting.

I have seen people try to QT corals in tanks that are sterile and it often does not end well for anything sensitive. Acro's for sure died on people... the torch and nem are more sensitive and won't be happy in an uncycled tank devoid of natural reef habitat.

Qting a coral and invert should have the same set up/requirements of the display tank. The only difference, is lack of fish so you may need to supplement feeding. I set mine up with similar lighting even so there would be no lighting stress going from QT to DT.

You can put some dry rock in your sump or media in your sump to seed it for a few weeks to help. I put some actual established rock in mine that was covered in life/coralline and it made QTing anything super easy.

People set up fresh frag tanks at shows but these are for a few days and not weeks.
I have 1kg of ceramic balls in my sump since I started the tank, can I take 1/3rd of that and put it in my cleaned QT with new water? How many should be enough for a 45L QT tank?
Can I just instantly put new corals into that QT tank?

And I have this light for my QT, is it enough for corals?

I don't think I will buy sps corals very soon so it will only be for soft/LPS and maybe an anemone
 
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Tamberav

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I have 1kg of ceramic balls in my sump since I started the tank, can I take 1/3rd of that and put it in my cleaned QT with new water? How many should be enough for a 45L QT tank?
Can I just instantly put new corals into that QT tank?

And I have this light for my QT, is it enough for corals?

I don't think I will buy sps corals very soon so it will only be for soft/LPS and maybe an anemone

No, that light is for freshwater. Get a real reef light for corals. Idk what is available there but for cheaper lights we have things like Nicrew and Smatfarm.

I honestly would not take any short cuts on a coral QT tank and just set it up like a mini display. This is how I do it. I keep it running and have a separate tank to QT fish.

Here is a write up:

 
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Form or function: Do you consider your rock work to be art or the platform for your coral?

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