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I haven't but that is a good idea.
Review of Eshopps 3rd Generation R-200 Refugium
- Thread starter reef208
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Neo Jeo
Valuable Member
Good! and the DCP is the upgraded model, it willl do better! I just got the power heads they make pp-8, happy with them!
Pelagic One
Active Member
I’ve had a DCP 10000 running in my R200 3rd gen sump for a few weeks now. It barely fit in the return chamber, and yes, I had to remove the useless float valve to make it fit. Since it’s a DC motor it’s fairly quiet, but I could have placed some DIY sound dampener (sponge, neoprene, rubber shelf liner) under it first to get it even quieter.
As posted a couple years back when this thread started, there’s no way I’m getting back there anymore. If/when the pump fails, replacement may entail emptying the sump first, then pulling everything out of the stand. In retrospect, one way to make it easier to reach back and replace the pump would be to simply cut out the little corner piece of ABS that used to hold the float valve. Not having done that, getting it in there with the clear, reinforced seven inch piece of vinyl hose was an exercise in geometry, tilting here and there, angling vertically past the corner ABS obstruction, then tilting it 90 degrees into its final resting position. In other words, get the pump in there first, along with the return hose, then slide the sump into the stand.
For my 90 gallon DT, the pump runs at 50% plumbed with 1-1/4” up to DT water level (4 foot head), then Y’d to two 1” returns. Apex flow meter shows it at 600 gph. I can barely crank up to 700gph before the sand storm begins. And yes, without modification to the sump (additional holes or slots created) that kind of flow empties the return chamber faster than it fills. The design and size is just right for our tank, because when I shut off the return pump, the water flowing back into the sump is four inches from the top of the sump, thanks to high return nozzles. And yes, I’m living without a problematic safety valve in the return plumbing, and don’t need it with this sump.
If I could do it again:
- Cut out corner ABS float valve mount.
- Place pump in sump before placing in stand.
- Sound dampening, but it’s already pretty quiet.
- Save up for the smaller Neptune COR 15...not that I’m hating the Jaebo pump just yet.
I’m happy with my tank and overall system so far, so that’s key, right?
As posted a couple years back when this thread started, there’s no way I’m getting back there anymore. If/when the pump fails, replacement may entail emptying the sump first, then pulling everything out of the stand. In retrospect, one way to make it easier to reach back and replace the pump would be to simply cut out the little corner piece of ABS that used to hold the float valve. Not having done that, getting it in there with the clear, reinforced seven inch piece of vinyl hose was an exercise in geometry, tilting here and there, angling vertically past the corner ABS obstruction, then tilting it 90 degrees into its final resting position. In other words, get the pump in there first, along with the return hose, then slide the sump into the stand.
For my 90 gallon DT, the pump runs at 50% plumbed with 1-1/4” up to DT water level (4 foot head), then Y’d to two 1” returns. Apex flow meter shows it at 600 gph. I can barely crank up to 700gph before the sand storm begins. And yes, without modification to the sump (additional holes or slots created) that kind of flow empties the return chamber faster than it fills. The design and size is just right for our tank, because when I shut off the return pump, the water flowing back into the sump is four inches from the top of the sump, thanks to high return nozzles. And yes, I’m living without a problematic safety valve in the return plumbing, and don’t need it with this sump.
If I could do it again:
- Cut out corner ABS float valve mount.
- Place pump in sump before placing in stand.
- Sound dampening, but it’s already pretty quiet.
- Save up for the smaller Neptune COR 15...not that I’m hating the Jaebo pump just yet.
I’m happy with my tank and overall system so far, so that’s key, right?
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GWHouston
Well-Known Member
I wish I could like this 100 times...saving me some valuable time and headache. So the float trigger in the corner is useless, cut that out. I'm fortunate that my sump is under a permanent in wall build and I have plenty of head room to change out parts. Question: Would it be feasible for you to put the sump on a shelf with guides underneath so you could slide it out without much issue? You would however have to support it as it cleared the stand, as the weight of the sump would cause the shelf to fail.I’ve had a DCP 10000 running in my R200 3rd gen sump for a few weeks now. It barely fit in the return chamber, and yes, I had to remove the useless float valve to make it fit. Since it’s a DC motor it’s fairly quiet, but I could have placed some DIY sound dampener (sponge, neoprene, rubber shelf liner) under it first to get it even quieter.
As posted a couple years back when this thread started, there’s no way I’m getting back there anymore. If/when the pump fails, replacement may entail emptying the sump first, then pulling everything out of the stand. In retrospect, one way to make it easier to reach back and replace the pump would be to simply cut out the little corner piece of ABS that used to hold the float valve. Not having done that, getting it in there with the clear, reinforced seven inch piece of vinyl hose was an exercise in geometry, tilting here and there, angling vertically past the corner ABS obstruction, then tilting it 90 degrees into its final resting position. In other words, get the pump in there first, along with the return hose, then slide the sump into the stand.
For my 90 gallon DT, the pump runs at 50% plumbed with 1-1/4” up to DT water level (4 foot head), then Y’d to two 1” returns. Apex flow meter shows it at 600 gph. I can barely crank up to 700gph before the sand storm begins. And yes, without modification to the sump (additional holes or slots created) that kind of flow empties the return chamber faster than it fills. The design and size is just right for our tank, because when I shut off the return pump, the water flowing back into the sump is four inches from the top of the sump, thanks to high return nozzles. And yes, I’m living without a problematic safety valve in the return plumbing, and don’t need it with this sump.
If I could do it again:
- Cut out corner ABS float valve mount.
- Place pump in sump before placing in stand.
- Sound dampening, but it’s already pretty quiet.
- Save up for the smaller Neptune COR 15...not that I’m hating the Jaebo pump just yet.
I’m happy with my tank and overall system so far, so that’s key, right?
As for the dampening, I placed 1" solid dense foam around my sump chamber for sound. I hope this is enough. My corner drains are 1" and the returns are two 3/4". Head space is roughly 5ft. I've got ball valves in place if I need to equalize the volume but I figured with the DC motor, the output could be adjusted to the waste water feed.
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Pelagic One
Active Member
How’s it going, GW!
I like the idea of putting the sump on a rail-guided shelf, given that my wife and I have similar installations in the kitchen and bathrooms, but I wonder if I could make it beefy enough to hold 30 gallons plus equipment. The other thought would be to place reachable unions in the plumbing to somewhat easily disconnect PVC. Overall the Eshopps channelized sump design is probably better suited for peninsula or nano tanks, where one could reach all chambers easily. I probably could’ve and should’ve gone with a linear-type sump that flows left to right, but I thought the white sump looked a little better built and sleek.
I have no doubt that your 1” solid dense foam will help to silence your room a bit. I recently lined our sailboat’s engine room with 1” solid dense foam, which practically dropped the diesel engine sound to a throaty pulse. So your system should be get people asking if the pumps are actually powered on, depending on your pump and skimmer.
I guess you and I need to put together a build thread eventually. I’d follow you for sure, just to see how other Eshopps sumps are fairing, or if folks are selling off their R-series sumps for the trendy Triton sumps.
I like the idea of putting the sump on a rail-guided shelf, given that my wife and I have similar installations in the kitchen and bathrooms, but I wonder if I could make it beefy enough to hold 30 gallons plus equipment. The other thought would be to place reachable unions in the plumbing to somewhat easily disconnect PVC. Overall the Eshopps channelized sump design is probably better suited for peninsula or nano tanks, where one could reach all chambers easily. I probably could’ve and should’ve gone with a linear-type sump that flows left to right, but I thought the white sump looked a little better built and sleek.
I have no doubt that your 1” solid dense foam will help to silence your room a bit. I recently lined our sailboat’s engine room with 1” solid dense foam, which practically dropped the diesel engine sound to a throaty pulse. So your system should be get people asking if the pumps are actually powered on, depending on your pump and skimmer.
I guess you and I need to put together a build thread eventually. I’d follow you for sure, just to see how other Eshopps sumps are fairing, or if folks are selling off their R-series sumps for the trendy Triton sumps.
Neo Jeo
Valuable Member
This is my return compartment. I have a RO V4, Tunze ATO senior and the RO safety switche. To get to it I have to put my 6’ 3” huge shoulder body under my tank lol! Man, least I don’t have to go back there everyday. I’m trying to find a way to secure that sensor better that has a float on it.Also- I ordered 12 sound damper pads. Will that be ok to add under my tank? Because it’s spongy will it get nasty? Trying to silence everything I’m my stand .
GWHouston
Well-Known Member
Also- I ordered 12 sound damper pads. Will that be ok to add under my tank? Because it’s spongy will it get nasty? Trying to silence everything I’m my stand .
My local Lowe’s carries a 1 inch dense foam board that is actually made for exterior house insulation. I have put it around my sump area and I believe this will be good enough to deaden the sound. I have some of the sound deadening foam but I thought like you asked that it might soak up too much moisture. I don’t really know a way around the moisture problem.
GWHouston
Well-Known Member
We definitely need to start a build thread. I should have already done that. Hopefully I will have my plumbing in soon and then I will start posting pictures in my thread. I’ll keep you posted and I will follow you as well.
I was a little bummed that the used sump I bought turned out to be the adv series because I couldn't find much on it. but after seeing all this with the return area I'm glad I got the ADV. Question, has anybody converted their filter sock to a round sock instead of the rectangle? I would like the ability to use different socks then the ones they offer.
Ahh I see that now, dang. Mine is the stupid rectangle and I'm going to try and get creative about how to convert it.
Neo Jeo
Valuable Member
No. It just has a separate sealed compartment. At the bottom it has a small vent that water flows into. Then it over flows into the return pump line. By passing the skimmer department.
The water can go into the skimmer department or into the refuge.
Mark SF
Community Member
Thanks for the clarification. The separate sealed compartment, is that controlled from the return lines? The water that flows into the refugium, does it not pass through the filter sock then?
Neo Jeo
Valuable Member
Correct. By passes the shock .
Skimmer section specs for the R200 are listed below...
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/r-200-refugium-sump-3rd-gen-eshopps.html
I will add my 2c to this as I've had it up and running 3 years. The OP hit the nail on the head with cons. The refugium flow is so slow it's a cyano trap. I have to stir my Cheato which Sucks!! Overall I think the design sucks to the nth degree. The inlet chamber is unaccessable to clean. I reversed the front to back so I can see the return chamber and access the filter media. It would be a NIGHTMARE if it wasn't this way. I give it a two thumbs down and if my stand had a way to get the sump out I'd yank it out and throw it in the ditch!! Hey, it is fairly quiet though! LOL
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