Ro/di adding a pressure tank faucet

iambes

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Hi all,

Wanted to add a pressure tank/faucet to my ro/di unit. Right now I have a 3 way ball valve that allows me to switch from one brute container to another. I want to replace the one side/brute container with the tank/faucet.

After the 3 way valve going to the tank/faucet side should I add a check valve followed by a tee with faucet on one side and pressurized tank on the other? Seems too simple lol am I missing something?

I’m hoping this will allow me to produce water for pressure tank/faucet when valve is in that direction , and to fill the brute if it’s in the other position.

thanks!
 

Rick.45cal

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Hi all,

Wanted to add a pressure tank/faucet to my ro/di unit. Right now I have a 3 way ball valve that allows me to switch from one brute container to another. I want to replace the one side/brute container with the tank/faucet.

After the 3 way valve going to the tank/faucet side should I add a check valve followed by a tee with faucet on one side and pressurized tank on the other? Seems too simple lol am I missing something?

I’m hoping this will allow me to produce water for pressure tank/faucet when valve is in that direction , and to fill the brute if it’s in the other position.

thanks!

You can only fill those pressure tanks with RO water, Deionized water will dissolve the bladder inside of it (so I’ve been told).

As for the mechanics of doing it, I will be interested to see what the answer is, as I don’t know.
 

KStatefan

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Add a tee and check valve prior to your DI system. Look at hook up diagrams on Spectrapure or Buckeye Hydro web sites. I would also add a taste and odor carbon filter on the line to the dispenser.
 
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iambes

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You can only fill those pressure tanks with RO water, Deionized water will dissolve the bladder inside of it (so I’ve been told).

As for the mechanics of doing it, I will be interested to see what the answer is, as I don’t know.
Hmm interesting, that was something I did not consider . I know many people take water prior to DI for this purpose , but thought that was only due to the lack of minerals.
 
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iambes

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Add a tee and check valve prior to your DI system. Look at hook up diagrams on Spectrapure or Buckeye Hydro web sites. I would also add a taste and odor carbon filter on the line to the dispenser.
Much appreciated - spectrapure diagrams were definitely helpful . So I was on the right track parts wise, just no reason to risk using the water after DI . Thanks !
 

Rick.45cal

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Hmm interesting, that was something I did not consider . I know many people take water prior to DI for this purpose , but thought that was only due to the lack of minerals.

I take water from before the DI canisters for drinking, but I don’t use a pressure tank. I was told that information about DI water dissolving the internal bladder years ago by the people at AirWaterIce so I’m inclined to believe them. You don’t want to be drinking DI water anyway. I’m assuming you’re planning on using the pressure tank and faucet for drinking water, is that correct?

The part I don’t know is if you will need a permeate pump and and a pressure switch to shut down the system when the tank is full. Part of that equation will depend on whether you use a booster pump or not before your membrane. Maybe someone here will know first hand, otherwise asking AirWaterIce or Spectrapure may help.
 

CK00020

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I have a system just like you are planning on, but use it for cleaning tank stuff not drinking. As to the degrading the membrane, I don’t think so I test water from the faucet regularly and if it goes I will be the first to know as my water supply for rinsing will be greatly reduced. Even if I have to replace it every couple years they are like 30 bucks
 
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iambes

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That and teeing off before the DI let's you run it to flush the Ro membrane to Avoid TDS creep.
True- So I can move the 3 way ball valve to accomplish that as I’ll only be using one brute container now.

so...

R/O water goes to
3 way ball valve ( one out for flush/waste and one out going to a tee)
One side of tee goes to D/I
Other side of Tee goes to a check valve followed by a tee
one side faucet one side pressurized tank

ill draw a quick terrible picture and post lol probably easier than trying to describe it in text
 
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iambes

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083922F0-221E-46B9-823B-4F4D92CFCD5E.jpeg
 

CK00020

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I don’t have a 3 way just a bunch of valves, one goes to faucet system one goes to ro storage one goes to a open line for bucket filling and tds creep removal
 
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iambes

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No 3way at the ro that goes to the pressure tank
not sure what you mean? trying to make it work with parts i have , but of course will order more if needed. do you mean to replace the tee after the 3way with another 3 way (to choose between brute or faucet/tank? ) was considering that or just add a valve between the D/I and the tee
 
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iambes

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I take water from before the DI canisters for drinking, but I don’t use a pressure tank. I was told that information about DI water dissolving the internal bladder years ago by the people at AirWaterIce so I’m inclined to believe them. You don’t want to be drinking DI water anyway. I’m assuming you’re planning on using the pressure tank and faucet for drinking water, is that correct?

The part I don’t know is if you will need a permeate pump and and a pressure switch to shut down the system when the tank is full. Part of that equation will depend on whether you use a booster pump or not before your membrane. Maybe someone here will know first hand, otherwise asking AirWaterIce or Spectrapure may help.

Yes, thats correct. I plan on primarily using the tank/faucet water for drinking. Certainly seems like its not worth making the attempt with going after the DI as there are potential negatives and no real benefit, so i will be tapping in after RO instead.
I am hoping that the auto shut off valve on the unit will work when the tank is full, but I honestly dont plan on leaving the water on too often, except to let it fill ( of course there will always be times i forget to turn it off ) .
Not currently using a booster pump or anything.
 

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