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So is basic RO water fine for the tank without the deionized properties, or am I reading wrong?Pretty much..yes.
You can hook up both from a single unit, diverting the ro to a separate reservoir.
Look at this website for diagrams etc.
http://spectrapure.com/hookup-diagrams
No, you WILL want tge DI for your tank.So is basic RO water fine for the tank without the deionized properties, or am I reading wrong?
No, you WILL want tge DI for your tank.
Split the line before the DI for drinking Ro
Will a 50 gal system be adequate to support drinking water?
You answered my next question. My wife doesn't want the extra drinking water spout so I was thinking I could have the line just run to the fridge and we could get our water from there. Win/winYou can do both... I do
My incoming water line runs through a prefilter, then a 5 micron carbon block, then a 1 micron carbon block, then the RO membrane, then a premate pump, to keep the clean water pressure up where it needs to be. From there, it 'T's off. One line runs to a 5g pressure tank, that feeds a drinking water faucet at my kitchen sink, and my refrigerator ice maker/water dispenser. That line has a check valve on it, to keep water from the pressure tank from feeding back to the RO/DI system, and a final inline carbon filter, to give the drinking water a final polish. The other leg of the T, after the premate pump, runs to a 2 stage DI setup, and on to my sump closet, where it feeds my mixing station, my ATO reservoir's auto refill system, and a manual valve on a short roll of hose, for miscellaneous water needs.
You don't want to drink DI water... if for no other reason, than because you'd burn through a fortune in DI resin RO gives you the great tasting water you want, and crystal clear ice cubes. You don't want RO water, without the DI pass, in your tank, because that DI cartridge removes a significant source of unknown contaminates that can and will cause problems in a reef.
My system, with most of the components I've mentioned, though I've upgraded it a bit, came from AirWaterIce, and is available under the name 'dual home/reef'. I highly recommend AirWaterIce. Well designed, great quality stuff, reasonable prices, and excellent support, should you need it.
You answered my next question. My wife doesn't want the extra drinking water spout so I was thinking I could have the line just run to the fridge and we could get our water from there. Win/win
Clear ice is a bonus. lol
Is the DI stage really necessary? My wife wants an RO drinking water system and I'm wondering if I can use it for the tank.
Sorry @Greybeard, I know this is an old post, but I’m hoping you can help me a bit to understand where to put a permeate pump in a brs drinking water/reef RODI system. You say that the permeate pump replaces the auto shut off valve. Does it get plumbed into the same spot that the auto shut off valve in a typical BRS system is found? And do you place the check valve before or after the final carbon block on your drinking water line?Note: Most modern refrigerators require a fair amount of pressure to feed the water/ice dispenser. A pressure tank is a necessity, and you're probably going to want to investigate a permeate pump, as well. If you're unfamiliar with them, it's a mechanical device that does two things: First, they increase outgoing (clean) water pressure to match that of the incoming water pressure. Normally, you'll loose quite a bit of pressure on the clean side of an RO membrane. Second, they act as a replacement for the more typical 'Auto Shut Off Valve' (ASOV) that RO/DI units come with. As pressure equalizes, the pump stops both clean water and waste water coming from the RO membrane, so incoming water is no longer flowing, though still under full pressure. I don't trust ASOV's. Had one too many failures with them. I _always_ want a permeate pump on my RO systems, even if I don't need the higher pressure they produce. They're not terribly expensive, and are MUCH more reliable than any ASOV I've ever owned.
Sorry @Greybeard, I know this is an old post, but I’m hoping you can help me a bit to understand where to put a permeate pump in a brs drinking water/reef RODI system. You say that the permeate pump replaces the auto shut off valve. Does it get plumbed into the same spot that the auto shut off valve in a typical BRS system is found? And do you place the check valve before or after the final carbon block on your drinking water line?