Sick clownfish
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Please post age of tank and current value for ammonia and nitrates.
Did you just wake this fish up?
In the images the clown looks to be on the skinny side?
Did you just wake this fish up?
In the images the clown looks to be on the skinny side?
melypr1985
totally addicted
How long have you had him? When did he start looking faded like that? Is he eating? He does look skinny. Have you noticed any other symptoms like heavy breathing, swimming into the flow of a power head, hiding a lot in the dark, flashing, scratching, or head twitching?
melypr1985
totally addicted
Can you possibly pull him out for a fresh water dip? I want you to check for flukes but at the same time the dip will help clear out the gills.
Here's how and what to look for:
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Hiding in the dark and faded colors really spells velvet to me. I would remove all fish to a qt and treat with coppersafe or chelated copper ASAP. Bring it up to therapeutic dose over 48 hours.
I can't remember what to do for quick relief but I think @melypr1985 may be able to advise. Freshwater dips won't do anything for velvet
I can't remember what to do for quick relief but I think @melypr1985 may be able to advise. Freshwater dips won't do anything for velvet
melypr1985
totally addicted
The twitching is what had me thinking flukes first. Velvet did occur to me and the FW dip will at least flush out the gills some and buy the fish more time. I certainly agree that a QT should be ready and set up, and copper made available so that if flukes arn't present the fish can go straight into QT and be treated. But the dip will provide some immediate relief for a fish with velvet, though it is short lived and treatment should begin right after.
After feeding him a little extra all his color came back and he looks really happy, could he have just been starving? All the fish i have are heavy eaters so its possible he wasnt getting enough, and hes the smallest
melypr1985
totally addicted
Yes the submissive "shimmy" is normal for clowns. If that's what he's doing, then that changes some things.
Neon gobies do not eat parasites off of fish. Ick, for example, burrows under the skin and cannot be eaten off another fish like your thinking. Even cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp are only eating the dead skin cells and excess mucus near the insertion points.
I would keep an eye on him and the rest. I'm glad he looks better for you though!
I knew about they cant eat ick, ive had an outbreak and succesfully treated the tank a few years ago. But with flukes arent the worms hanging off of the fishes gills where the goby can get them?Yes the submissive "shimmy" is normal for clowns. If that's what he's doing, then that changes some things.
Neon gobies do not eat parasites off of fish. Ick, for example, burrows under the skin and cannot be eaten off another fish like your thinking. Even cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp are only eating the dead skin cells and excess mucus near the insertion points.
I would keep an eye on him and the rest. I'm glad he looks better for you though!
melypr1985
totally addicted
They dont really hang off the gills, but are like little clear ovals stuck on the exterior of the skin and in the gills. I've never seen neon gobies clean a fish though so that's what I'm stuck on. Theoretically a cleaner wrasse could eat them off the skin, but if the fish is small I dont know if it could get in the gills to get them. It wouldnt stop the flukes from being in the tank though.... the eggs would keep hatching and spreading new flukes all over.
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