Sick of GHA going to start dosing perxoide

rlman41299

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Turn off the lights 4 o 5 days, the dinos and ciano die, but for me it looks like some bryopsis also

That would only mask the problem and not take care of the root of it. Test for phosphates, from the looks of it you will need a good cleanup crew. Banded trochus and mexican turbo are great at eating up GHA and some hermits will help. IMO I would turn back the biopellets back on.
Could be your rocks are leaching phos.
 

brandon429

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question for the masses


should he leave this algae in the system, intertwined among corals, until more po4 controls are explored? my question is, po4 is long term solution if it works, but what do we do right now about the green, leave it or have 100% of it gone before managing the po4 (assuming p04 is an issue, huge assumption imo)
 

Russ265

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aggressive gfo or phosguard should loosen the gha for manual export. kinda stinks, but it has to be exported.
chucking peroxide in there to dissolve it back to phosphate again may work for a time, but it will come back.

ime usually po4>no3 when this happens.
 
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Brandon I dosed the H@02 but diden't notice many bubbles. Have you seen any tanks turn around by dosing alone. Or must you take the rocks out and spray
 

Russ265

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Brandon I dosed the H@02 but diden't notice many bubbles. Have you seen any tanks turn around by dosing alone. Or must you take the rocks out and spray

you did loosen the gha though. if you want bubbles, a pippette and 35% will do the job. but be careful.

it sounds like you used 3% standard peroxide and expected a miracle cure.
 

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Bubbles caused by peroxide indicate certain enzymes from bacteria present or not present where the solution is applied, bubbles or no bubbles have zero effect on the oxidizer capabilities of peroxide or whether its working towards an end (or causing damage)

Don't look for bubbling, only follow the doses the large threads show if you choose to dose the whole tank. You have to keep it low since you are choosing to expose both corals and algae to the same chemical (whereas the polar opposite option exists, external spot treats, but equals access work)


In those online threads nobody reports a turnaround from one dose to the tank. But they do from spot treatments :)

One peroxide thread is stickied at the top of the gen forum as a reference even though its more for dinos vs algae work. It shows dilution ratios and all are whole tank doses, for thirty pages.

Whether it should be used at all for gha is debatable. I do. But I don't dose my whole tank ever, I attacked once in 2005 and been good since. Most go after po4

Threads I'm on show advice to dose the entire tank is one out of every two hundred entrants for a good reason, its hardly ever needed (cept unruly dino tanks lol again as one option among a few that are tankwide doses)





Algae turf scrubbers are great to consider as they wont harm anything in trying if you want the slow natural removal option for your algae. Their worst case outcome is no removal of your algae, but they are not harmful to try. Gfo is easily harmful. Tread carefully w whole tank stripping.



Bubbling:


On the human body, the mucous membrane areas have the catalase positive bacteria typically so this is why bubbling is rapid in the ears, mouth et al but not on your hands, arm, feet etc. Our blood and cuts exhibits strong bubbling w peroxide due to enzymes as well.



Those who push zeovit tanks to lower and lower po4 risk total coral bleaching as they typically are focusing only on that and not light intensity and alk which are co contributors as well. We find it better to never use po4 chasing to remove algae, only prevent it. Use grazers, manual removal and the various cheats to remove it. Posters are universally discouraged from using cheats to remove algae for concern of return. Return means your po4 fix all wasnt good enough, the removal is independent.

There are times you dont follow the rules in reefkeeping imo. anytime someone wants to test the rules, start a thread and work your claim on others tanks, to me this is key in testing for snake oil or not. our threads are great filters.

The algae control advise that works best for me is:

Never attack your algae by doing anything to your water, algae is attacked directly if you want totally predictable outcomes and a bunch of algae free tanks. Those with ideal nutrient measures and a spritz of luck will be doing the least to no manual removal or reliance on grazers. that combination will be their go to solution for all tank invasions there on out, so its hard for other methods to get in edgewise but alts are creeping up nonetheless.
 
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reefndude

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You can also spot treat in tank for rocks that can not be removed. Just turn all flow off and hit with a syringe. Algae will be white within couple of days
 
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IMG_0823_zps7brqiwwo.jpg

So your saying I need 30 % stuff I don't think I am confortable using it what if I spill some.
After removing fish and adding so much chemicals the algae has seemed to have stopped growing.
I wish I diden't stack so much rock
 

brandon429

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Yes thats a nice death phase beginning

no need for anything past 3% im sure here. gha is the single most easily killed invader we have when peroxide is chosen. all you do now is wait and watch that which was formerly green turn white :)

lower your photoperiod here or lessen the intensity while you are dosing or waiting for the prior dose to go inert, dont give the corals the same light shock they have when theres no peroxide in the tank. add nothing more lets just wait a few days. continue feeding the tank well, dont starve it, these corals want food just dont overdo and the algae is going to die anyway, giving you a clean palette to work with and better prevention afterwards.

The thing Russ was mentioning about the 35% was just to show you that stronger strengths might get some bubbling action going, if the right bacteria were there in the first place, not that 35% was needed for your issue. its so powerful I bet it would bubble non catalase point of sale items out of sheer oxidation strength as well.

it would be entirely too strong here, dont get. when dosing the whole tank, wait a week before reassessment, its a slower way but is starting nicely here. good detail pics.

I'll link your tank to the big p threads when done, then after we can track growback issues to test.
 
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I like the blue acro on the right it looks like its giving the other corals the finger
 

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IMG_0823_zps7brqiwwo.jpg

So your saying I need 30 % stuff I don't think I am confortable using it what if I spill some.
After removing fish and adding so much chemicals the algae has seemed to have stopped growing.
I wish I diden't stack so much rock

no. i would not use 30%.
i was referencing the fact that you stated nothing happened after 24 hours and if you wanted that drastic of a change (albeit with mortality) you would need something like this.



disclaimer: 30% is way beyond what id ever consider to put in a tank.
 
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It will have been a week by tomarrow I have not noticed any difference in the the color of the algae. How long do you need to do it for?
10ml per day tank is 90 plus 20 sump minus the rocks
 

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should be fairly easy to manually remove. i dont see a lack of photosynthesis due to peroxide. mainly phosphate.
 

brandon429

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bugger

the results are due to using full tank doses over spot treats. if it takes weeks to do what a test rock shows in 3 days as an external dip thats not abnormal. the key is dont up the dosing to compensate, wait the time.
 

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I used just about everything, nopox worked wonders for me, much better than bp's or vinegar. (its a more rounded solution ime)
 

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Maybe try a sulphur bio denitrater, I had hair algae and tried everything. From vodka, to nopox, to water changes to gfo and carbon changed weekly.

Added a sulphur bio denitrater and within 2 months all algae was gone. It takes a month or so for all the bacteria to grow and do what it needs to, but I love it and will always have one running now
 

brandon429

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bugger

how this treatment going i bet some of it is falling off the corals by now

ps, this is the specific phase where lysis of the plant cells makes them seem like filet mignon to herbivores, get some! peroxide baked algae makes fish and snails go cra on it where they didnt touch it before. a totally recurring theme in 100% of p threads. you a rogue doser man lol
B
 
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Update: I am still plucking Gha out of the tank daily. The peroxide hasen't turned the algae white aside from a few stands tips. Its day ten of perxoide.
This is following a two week treatment of Api algae fix and a prior ten day treatment of algae x by fuana marine.
My sea hare has gone into hideing but has eaten some algae. It dosen't seem to go where the bulk of the algae is..
Most of what is left is crouched beside and under a digitata that I fear if I go into pluck more out I will accidentally break the coral.
It seems the start3 by zeovit is causeing the algae to still grow slowly.

I have cut back on feeding the fish two one or two feedings per day only minimal amounts
I have cut back on the light intensity as well
IMG_0833_zpsmofmuuwe.jpg

Here is a 200 dollar orange passion frag I just got today
If the peroxide dosen't work I really don't know what I will do.
IMG_0832_zpsgr9z28zn.jpg
 

ReefMadScientist

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No offense but why would you buy a $200 Orange Passion frag when you are dealing with GHA and treating it?

My two cents, stop dosing amino. I was dosing Zeovit and my PO4 was at 0. I was still getting GHA and Cyano to grow. I stopped for two weeks now and got a good cleanup crew. My GHA is nearly gone.
 

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