Original Question: How do we utilize higher end wattage and recreate true lighting? Can I identify temperature problems with use of higher wattage Mh or double ended HQis with Inginuity?
And lastly how can we achieve those wattages if chillers were so much? And how could we achieve more with less use of higher wattages?
Everyone thought, never, or absurd..But did it wO a chiller and 5000 of corals and fish relying on me?!
As we all understand requirements for keeping coral in a reef tank we all desire our tanks temperature to not fluctuate, our electric bills to be lower and most close to nature biotopes.
As we all desire, the ability to care for any and every coral available. Years before Apex and LED hit the market in 2007-8, time frame. Came up with an idea of wiring my own lighting method.
So I began research into Thermal Convection Loops, A/C and cooling systems and uses, and Industrial uses of MH use. Then after some intense research, began to understand how the heavier wattage heated our tanks. I found out that in most cases, we would have fans on both ends blowing cold air across the bulbs and other fan pulling hot air out of fixture or canopies.
The library content proved that the air pocket above the water would heat up and ultimately raise display temps. So I came to the conclusion if I got rid of the pocket before it would have a chance to transfer heat to the cooler Water in our displays.
So after more research figured that heat naturally rises and the display acts like a natural heatsink pulling heat from the bulbs and this hot Pocket.
So I gave the tank a more natural attempt at "vacating the air before" touches the water. In function never letting a heated pocket of air above waterline, by venting correctly.
Retro fitted Total Lighting:
So I put. 3-5" fan shroud directly above Light Reflector holding-
Retrofitted: a) 400 Watt Metal Halide
Hamilton Bulb (10k)
b) 2x65 Watt p.c. (10k)
c)2x65 Watt p.c. (Atinics)
d)1x96 Watt p.c. (10k)
e)1x96 Watt p.c. (Atinics)
Now, don't over think it..
Acording to all the Earth Science books back my original idea: The Earth rotates around the sun as we sail through the Solar System. The Earth at any given time goes from: 0% Sunlight, to 100% and back to 0% Sunset.
( Not mentioning Lunar Cycles)
Just sun's photonic period between Sunrise, High Noon and Sunset.
Then I applied all the above together to form "Spotlight Phasing!" The Basic idea of Running multiple sets that over lap creating 65 watts to 592 watts at Max but usually no higher than 496 watts( 400 watts 10k MH, 96watts Atinic P.C. -Sps Wattage per Gallon with Color Complements from p.c.)
No everyones gonna freak out, one second...
First of all, I adjust 8-9hr period to my off hours and time at home to view.
Say work days so:
3pm- 2x65 watt P.C. Atinics (On)
4pm- 2x65 watt P.C. 10k. (On)
6pm- (All off), 2x65 10k (On) 2x96 50/50 (On)
7pm- (2x65 10k off) 2x96 watt 50/50 on fan kicks on
8-9pm- Halide (on) complimentary 96watt P.C. Atinic (On) Highest Point of Total usage..
9-930 fans off, Both mh & 96 P.C. atinics(off)
Then Basically steps P.C. back down remaining 12-1am..Depending if weekend and viewing little longer...
Now everyone's freaking out, right?!
Keep in mind pre-thought idea, researched key thoughts, applied both to design and tan for months without a chiller in a o e bedroom apartment.
Never got higher than 80°F, had polyp of all forms growth daily, brought back coral that weren't making it at the shop!
And did all the above wo a chiller!
If I had LEDs, then when moonlights just came out to.market for hobby would have been different hybrid of available resources and parts.
And if I ever install a tank in a wall have better experience, overall and heat, lighting and corals available not an issue.
And lastly how can we achieve those wattages if chillers were so much? And how could we achieve more with less use of higher wattages?
Everyone thought, never, or absurd..But did it wO a chiller and 5000 of corals and fish relying on me?!
As we all understand requirements for keeping coral in a reef tank we all desire our tanks temperature to not fluctuate, our electric bills to be lower and most close to nature biotopes.
As we all desire, the ability to care for any and every coral available. Years before Apex and LED hit the market in 2007-8, time frame. Came up with an idea of wiring my own lighting method.
So I began research into Thermal Convection Loops, A/C and cooling systems and uses, and Industrial uses of MH use. Then after some intense research, began to understand how the heavier wattage heated our tanks. I found out that in most cases, we would have fans on both ends blowing cold air across the bulbs and other fan pulling hot air out of fixture or canopies.
The library content proved that the air pocket above the water would heat up and ultimately raise display temps. So I came to the conclusion if I got rid of the pocket before it would have a chance to transfer heat to the cooler Water in our displays.
So after more research figured that heat naturally rises and the display acts like a natural heatsink pulling heat from the bulbs and this hot Pocket.
So I gave the tank a more natural attempt at "vacating the air before" touches the water. In function never letting a heated pocket of air above waterline, by venting correctly.
Retro fitted Total Lighting:
So I put. 3-5" fan shroud directly above Light Reflector holding-
Retrofitted: a) 400 Watt Metal Halide
Hamilton Bulb (10k)
b) 2x65 Watt p.c. (10k)
c)2x65 Watt p.c. (Atinics)
d)1x96 Watt p.c. (10k)
e)1x96 Watt p.c. (Atinics)
Now, don't over think it..
Acording to all the Earth Science books back my original idea: The Earth rotates around the sun as we sail through the Solar System. The Earth at any given time goes from: 0% Sunlight, to 100% and back to 0% Sunset.
( Not mentioning Lunar Cycles)
Just sun's photonic period between Sunrise, High Noon and Sunset.
Then I applied all the above together to form "Spotlight Phasing!" The Basic idea of Running multiple sets that over lap creating 65 watts to 592 watts at Max but usually no higher than 496 watts( 400 watts 10k MH, 96watts Atinic P.C. -Sps Wattage per Gallon with Color Complements from p.c.)
No everyones gonna freak out, one second...
First of all, I adjust 8-9hr period to my off hours and time at home to view.
Say work days so:
3pm- 2x65 watt P.C. Atinics (On)
4pm- 2x65 watt P.C. 10k. (On)
6pm- (All off), 2x65 10k (On) 2x96 50/50 (On)
7pm- (2x65 10k off) 2x96 watt 50/50 on fan kicks on
8-9pm- Halide (on) complimentary 96watt P.C. Atinic (On) Highest Point of Total usage..
9-930 fans off, Both mh & 96 P.C. atinics(off)
Then Basically steps P.C. back down remaining 12-1am..Depending if weekend and viewing little longer...
Now everyone's freaking out, right?!
Keep in mind pre-thought idea, researched key thoughts, applied both to design and tan for months without a chiller in a o e bedroom apartment.
Never got higher than 80°F, had polyp of all forms growth daily, brought back coral that weren't making it at the shop!
And did all the above wo a chiller!
If I had LEDs, then when moonlights just came out to.market for hobby would have been different hybrid of available resources and parts.
And if I ever install a tank in a wall have better experience, overall and heat, lighting and corals available not an issue.
