Stand: wood vs welded steel vs welded aluminium vs modular aluminium

What stand type are you using?


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92Miata

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The only issue I see with this mentality is my personal experience. Personally if I am building an upgrade I don’t break down the current system until the new system is ready for whatever is coming out of the previous system. That said chances are the new system is being built as another system not as a replacement. What I’m saying is it’s hard to start a new system with parts from the old system without breaking it down.

I've found this approach to be way smoother than trying to do the all-in-one swap. I set up the new tank, steal a couple pieces of live rock from the old tank, let it run for bit, make sure things are doing ok for a week or two, then start moving fish. Move corals and rest of rock and pumps as things feel appropriate. It completely alleviates the risk of typical tank swaps - no clams spawning in buckets and killing things, no worrying about things getting too cold. Its just smooth.



I'll never understand how the 2x4 stands became the default in this hobby. I get that they require less tools than building a good plywood stand, but I see people with full workshops building 2x4 stands when a good plywood stand is not only easier to work in and has more space - its stronger. It's like people decided more wood was a goal in itself and decided engineering wasn't a thing.
 
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The only issue I see with this mentality is my personal experience. Personally if I am building an upgrade I don’t break down the current system until the new system is ready for whatever is coming out of the previous system. That said chances are the new system is being built as another system not as a replacement. What I’m saying is it’s hard to start a new system with parts from the old system without breaking it down.

Yes, will have to think trough that. However not sure that I will have space to run two systems in parallel. Will have to find a way to swap out the DT.

I like the fact that my primary filter elements in the sump remains untouched and continue from the old to the new system.
 
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My first large tank(135) went on a 2x6 / 3/4" birch plywood stand. It weighed more than the tank. Second tank (200) went on a oak plywood stand. I had issues with plywood blistering where it got wet, cut out the cancer and re-applied a better sealer. Third was expensive using oak hard wood boards for my 300DD. 4th tank which was a 180 from Planet came with a stand from planet. 5th tank 310 from planet, their stand was too expensive, so I built my own stand out of Russian Birch which is twice as strong, more plys, and water proof. I believe Planet uses this same wood.
310 stand.jpg

my old 300DD stand below
300-left siders (2).jpg

Plywood looks definitely more "open" than a wooden frame. Do you let your frame stand on the ground?
 

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Would galvanising work and/or am I talking about a lot of money?

Having a steel stand hot dipped would be an excellent choice for corrosion protection. There are some things you have to take in consideration when designing for hot dipping there has to be vent and drain holes for the gasses and liquids to escape.
 
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@2BeAlive so many great comments and thoughts on this question. Just a few more thoughts for you.

I'm a newbie with a 120G tank. My current and "first" stand and canopy is made from 1x3, 1x4, and plywood and then sealed with a number of coats of stain / polyurethane. Two lessons I've learned about the stand. First, I get very nervous any time I need to drill holes to secure equipment (dosers, power supplies, etc). So I ended up adding a french cleat to secure a panel that I use to mount all of the equipment. Second, because my stand is about 48" wide, there is a "leg" in the middle which can't be removed (without cutting and a great deal of gnashing of teeth). So I'm "stuck" with the sump that I have, and access is fairly limited. I also wish that I could have created a "dry side" under the stand to secure a controller and other sensitive electronics.

If I were to do it again, I'd strongly consider a T-slot system for many of the reasons others stated. It also seems much more versatile in terms of making changes (e.g. "dry side" for equipment, adding mounting panels, etc) and strength vs. weight.

Had similar issues in my previos stands, so want to have a "central pillar free" design, but gets very nervous to see so much water "hanging in the air". :rolleyes:
 
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Your spot on with your observations. Now it comes down to picking the one you want. It s a personal choice at this point. Personally, after I added up all the different ways, I ended up buying a waterbox as the end price was cheaper than me doing it myself. I like carpentry, but finish carpentry is hard. So I would have had to pay for it.

Thanks. I definitely want a wooden outside that fits in with our furniture, so think that irrespective of the frame type there is going to be carpentry involved.
 

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In the past i have always had wooden stands, my recent build (As of Feb of this year) i went with a marine steel (corrosion proof) and i will never go back to a wooden stand. I have magnetic wooden panels that can be removed giving me tons of work space with look and feel of real wood.

1595604189147.png


Panels Removed:

1595604232559.png
 

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Would galvanising work and/or am I talking about a lot of money?
Why worry? Epoxy paint is more than enough. After painting steel, if you are worried, you can add this:



Looks awesome. Haven't used it yet but will on my next project.
 
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I
I went with welded 6" aluminum channel for my 220 gallon tank. It has a granite counter top and oak skin. I love my stand and would do it again. I would change the way I made the skin. After 2 years it is warping and doesn't seal up tight spilling sump lighting into the room.

IMG_2411.JPG

IMG_20180311_123310.jpg


IMG_20180311_123908.jpg


IMG_20200407_125505.jpg


There is more info on it in my build thread.


I really like using the channels, stronger than same amount of metal as a cube and looks strong.

This "no central pillar" design is exactly what I am looking for.

Why did you opt for the tubes at the bottom and not more channels than the bottom?

I would be a bit worried about weight off the granite top, but looks great, and solve any spills worries.

How did you attached the wood to the aluminium? Would you be able to bout the on hinges or sliders in front in the future?
 
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For a tank that size, there is nothing wrong with a properly constructed wooden stand. It will last longer than the tank.

Here is the stand I built for my 120 x 70 x 45cm tank:


Wow, this is a really clean design, and minimal wood, not the bulky one I would have done.
 
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I like steel but that fits in my skill set better then wood.

You can build a quality stand that will last for years out of any of those materials it really comes down to personal chioice and which design criteria is highest on your priority list.

I like steel but that fits in my skill set better then wood and I can purchase steel at work at cost.

I would not call aluminum sea water proof. It will corrode if not protected from salt water.

I checked, the 8020 is anodized aluminium, good for 10 to 20 years, so should be OK?
 

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Wow, this is a really clean design, and minimal wood, not the bulky one I would have done.

People tend to overbuild their stands by a WILD margin, like 25x more than estimated load! Even my stand that I linked before is well overbuilt, using laminated 1.5” (~4cm) plywood.

Similarly sized ~350L 120cm Red Sea tank’s just use a 3/4 (<2cm) plywood shell, with a support in the middle. And that’s assembled IKEA style, with pegs and locking screws. Kind of flimsy to me- don’t love mine. Racks a bit if pushed.

DNyLjLg.jpg
 

TheHarold

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I'll never understand how the 2x4 stands became the default in this hobby. I get that they require less tools than building a good plywood stand, but I see people with full workshops building 2x4 stands when a good plywood stand is not only easier to work in and has more space - its stronger. It's like people decided more wood was a goal in itself and decided engineering wasn't a thing.

Preach it! 100% agree. I call them the 2x4 savages! ;Woot

It also takes away from the potential area for a sump.
 

I’ma tempermental coral

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I'll never understand how the 2x4 stands became the default in this hobby. I get that they require less tools than building a good plywood stand, but I see people with full workshops building 2x4 stands when a good plywood stand is not only easier to work in and has more space - its stronger. It's like people decided more wood was a goal in itself and decided engineering wasn't a thing.
While I don’t disagree, completely, check out my build thread for the system we are putting together now. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...n-a-mid-sized-sps-system.740552/#post-7724664
It is a 2x4 and 2x6 carcass with a full 3/4 ply sheer wall. The sheer wall is one solid sheet on each side with reliefs cut out for the front and back. Over built? Sure! It’s also a tad over sized and VERY open. My husband is an ogre and made sure there was more than enough room for activities. There is also the fact that this system is going on the second story of our house which means load spread was a necessity which eliminates the ability to use any kind of “feet”. Now factor in 2 bouncing kids, and 2 dogs, one of which is a Russian bear dog at 230 pounds and still growing! Sure it’s over built! But it will help me sleep better at night knowing that.
 
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While I don’t disagree, completely, check out my build thread for the system we are putting together now. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...n-a-mid-sized-sps-system.740552/#post-7724664
It is a 2x4 and 2x6 carcass with a full 3/4 ply sheer wall. The sheer wall is one solid sheet on each side with reliefs cut out for the front and back. Over built? Sure! It’s also a tad over sized and VERY open. My husband is an ogre and made sure there was more than enough room for activities. There is also the fact that this system is going on the second story of our house which means load spread was a necessity which eliminates the ability to use any kind of “feet”. Now factor in 2 bouncing kids, and 2 dogs, one of which is a Russian bear dog at 230 pounds and still growing! Sure it’s over built! But it will help me sleep better at night knowing that.

Neat piece of work!

I am in your camp regarding redundancy, got safety build in everything else (two return pumps, bean animal overflow, etc) so would not mine a safety factor in the stand design as well.

I am trying to get my head around an asymmetrical design (e.g. the pillar in the back but not in the front and if it can do something weird to the structure in terms of putting strain on the joints?

PS, I maybe would consider a fence around the tank as well. :rolleyes:
 
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If you are interested in going down the T-slot aluminium extrusion road, look into Misumi.com.

The website is a little confusing to get the hang of, but it offers (80/20) style extrusions for much lower cost and cut to length.

Thanks, I found a company in South Africa that also does their own version, importing stuff at the moment is a hit and mis with Covid.
 
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In the past i have always had wooden stands, my recent build (As of Feb of this year) i went with a marine steel (corrosion proof) and i will never go back to a wooden stand. I have magnetic wooden panels that can be removed giving me tons of work space with look and feel of real wood.

1595604189147.png


Panels Removed:

1595604232559.png

This is really an impressive design and layout. What is the specifications (what do I ask for) in terms of the steel?

Is this a specific type or does it relate to the coating?

Seeing this reminded me that I need to fit my chiller in there as well.

Do you only have removable panels or does your front one have a door for easier access?
 

I’ma tempermental coral

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Neat piece of work!

I am in your camp regarding redundancy, got safety build in everything else (two return pumps, bean animal overflow, etc) so would not mine a safety factor in the stand design as well.

I am trying to get my head around an asymmetrical design (e.g. the pillar in the back but not in the front and if it can do something weird to the structure in terms of putting strain on the joints?

PS, I maybe would consider a fence around the tank as well. :rolleyes:
Like I said my husband is a giant for one so the lack of a front pillar allows for MUCH more space to work. As well as pulling out the entire 44 inch sump out from under a 62 inch stand with zero issues. In fact you bringing it up gives me a great idea to bring to my husband! As for your question regarding the joints. The span between uprights while using 2x6 is longer than the span allowed by 2x4. Hence why the upper frame is made from 2x6. Also take a look inside the red circles, those weren’t just used as spacers for the cross bracing.
8E845591-E395-4CA5-9C44-E40C1449C72E.jpeg
They were mounted just as securely as any other part of the stand for a very specific purpose. During load testing before the system is set to cycle. If the stand shows any signs of fatigue during this period a brace will have solid purchase points to be installed. None of that is likely to be necessary due to the 2x6 or the fact that the tank itself is constructed completely of 3/4 acrylic. But, you know, redundancy and all! Hahaha

In regards to your fence around the tank... well not a bad one! Hahaha
 

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