Stand: wood vs welded steel vs welded aluminium vs modular aluminium

[Reefer Reboot]

Well since you asked... ... sure. But first I have to admit I have been following your thread just to see which way you ultimately decided to go. Of course now I'm going to try to persuade you to come to the dark T-slot side. Since I'm more of the "function over form" type, I'll try to show you some of the versatility that the T-slot stands can offer. With that said, I have seen many T-slot stands that have been beautifully skinned to look like wood stands. Best of both worlds!
(Please excuse the background in some of the pictures, the wife decided to remodel the house at the same time!)
This is how I started out;

Wide open stand.

During mock up with a 36"x 36" x 24" tank that I used as a sump. I didn't like the small access holes on top so I cut the top just leaving about 1" around the perimeter. So to strengthen the sump I added these cross beams.

Now it's a wide open sump. As you can see I have also played around with adding a few canister filters for GAC, GFO, Sulpher or whatever else. This changed several times throughout my "journey".
Here's a view showing under the DT.

With such easy ability to modify I've added on to the back a full panel for the Apex, a shelf for the food and etc on the side, a bracket on front for the Apex monitor, one on the side for a tablet, a sliding mount for a Wyze camera and a canopy with a sliding/tilting mount for the DT lights. It's starting to look at little Mad Max-ish.
OMG, I just realized, I have an addiction to this stuff!

(See what I mean about an addiction.)
As far as being strong enough to make a stand with no center support, absolutely no problem with a properly planned design with this stuff.
Yes it may be a little more expensive at first but it will last forever and is easy to change or disassemble to move through tight quarters.
(Legal disclaimer, if you too get addicted, I am not responsible for rehab fees!;Joyful)

 

[jsvand5]

Like I said my husband is a giant for one so the lack of a front pillar allows for MUCH more space to work. As well as pulling out the entire 44 inch sump out from under a 62 inch stand with zero issues. In fact you bringing it up gives me a great idea to bring to my husband! As for your question regarding the joints. The span between uprights while using 2x6 is longer than the span allowed by 2x4. Hence why the upper frame is made from 2x6. Also take a look inside the red circles, those weren’t just used as spacers for the cross bracing.

They were mounted just as securely as any other part of the stand for a very specific purpose. During load testing before the system is set to cycle. If the stand shows any signs of fatigue during this period a brace will have solid purchase points to be installed. None of that is likely to be necessary due to the 2x6 or the fact that the tank itself is constructed completely of 3/4 acrylic. But, you know, redundancy and all! Hahaha

In regards to your fence around the tank... well not a bad one! Hahaha

Did you put any bracing around the outside of the stand going from the top of the bottom 2x6 to the bottom of the top 2x6? In your pick it looks like the only pieces that are supporting weight are the upright 2x4s with only screws holding the entire top deck.

 

[Kfactor]

Wood but on my next build will be steel

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Did you put any bracing around the outside of the stand going from the top of the bottom 2x6 to the bottom of the top 2x6? In your pick it looks like the only pieces that are supporting weight are the upright 2x4s with only screws holding the entire top deck.

Check the build thread I posted it shows the full construction. The 2x4 inner supports were chosen to give more room on the inside of the stand. You’ll see in the thread they were clad with 2x6 uprights for over redundancy lol.

 

[ReefLab]

Well since you asked... ... sure. But first I have to admit I have been following your thread just to see which way you ultimately decided to go. Of course now I'm going to try to persuade you to come to the dark T-slot side. Since I'm more of the "function over form" type, I'll try to show you some of the versatility that the T-slot stands can offer. With that said, I have seen many T-slot stands that have been beautifully skinned to look like wood stands. Best of both worlds!
(Please excuse the background in some of the pictures, the wife decided to remodel the house at the same time!)
This is how I started out;

Wide open stand.

During mock up with a 36"x 36" x 24" tank that I used as a sump. I didn't like the small access holes on top so I cut the top just leaving about 1" around the perimeter. So to strengthen the sump I added these cross beams.

Now it's a wide open sump. As you can see I have also played around with adding a few canister filters for GAC, GFO, Sulpher or whatever else. This changed several times throughout my "journey".
Here's a view showing under the DT.

With such easy ability to modify I've added on to the back a full panel for the Apex, a shelf for the food and etc on the side, a bracket on front for the Apex monitor, one on the side for a tablet, a sliding mount for a Wyze camera and a canopy with a sliding/tilting mount for the DT lights. It's starting to look at little Mad Max-ish.
OMG, I just realized, I have an addiction to this stuff!

(See what I mean about an addiction.)
As far as being strong enough to make a stand with no center support, absolutely no problem with a properly planned design with this stuff.
Yes it may be a little more expensive at first but it will last forever and is easy to change or disassemble to move through tight quarters.
(Legal disclaimer, if you too get addicted, I am not responsible for rehab fees!;Joyful)

Woah! Do you have a full shot of the canopy and stand?

 

[jsvand5]

I’d just go wood for simplicity and cost. A well built wood stand will outlast the tank. I had a local carpenter build mine for my 210g out of plywood. Could probably carry the weight of 5 of my tanks.

 

[Sdot]

This is really an impressive design and layout. What is the specifications (what do I ask for) in terms of the steel?

Is this a specific type or does it relate to the coating?

Seeing this reminded me that I need to fit my chiller in there as well.

Do you only have removable panels or does your front one have a door for easier access?

Hey thanks! Its a marine corrosion resistance material. It appears to be coated with something or made from something..idk. All of the panels are removable, make it really easy to work on.

 

[2BeAlive]

I’d just go wood for simplicity and cost. A well built wood stand will outlast the tank. I had a local carpenter build mine for my 210g out of plywood. Could probably carry the weight of 5 of my tanks.

I am looking into plywood, my previos stand was marine-ply, amazing strength to weight properties.

 

[2BeAlive]

W

Well since you asked... ... sure. But first I have to admit I have been following your thread just to see which way you ultimately decided to go. Of course now I'm going to try to persuade you to come to the dark T-slot side. Since I'm more of the "function over form" type, I'll try to show you some of the versatility that the T-slot stands can offer. With that said, I have seen many T-slot stands that have been beautifully skinned to look like wood stands. Best of both worlds!
(Please excuse the background in some of the pictures, the wife decided to remodel the house at the same time!)
This is how I started out;

Wide open stand.

During mock up with a 36"x 36" x 24" tank that I used as a sump. I didn't like the small access holes on top so I cut the top just leaving about 1" around the perimeter. So to strengthen the sump I added these cross beams.

Now it's a wide open sump. As you can see I have also played around with adding a few canister filters for GAC, GFO, Sulpher or whatever else. This changed several times throughout my "journey".
Here's a view showing under the DT.

With such easy ability to modify I've added on to the back a full panel for the Apex, a shelf for the food and etc on the side, a bracket on front for the Apex monitor, one on the side for a tablet, a sliding mount for a Wyze camera and a canopy with a sliding/tilting mount for the DT lights. It's starting to look at little Mad Max-ish.
OMG, I just realized, I have an addiction to this stuff!

(See what I mean about an addiction.)
As far as being strong enough to make a stand with no center support, absolutely no problem with a properly planned design with this stuff.
Yes it may be a little more expensive at first but it will last forever and is easy to change or disassemble to move through tight quarters.
(Legal disclaimer, if you too get addicted, I am not responsible for rehab fees!;Joyful)

Wow, impressive. Definitely flexible, and configurable. How would you clad the outside?

I am also struggling to do strength calculations to figure out what size and profile to use.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

Woah! Do you have a full shot of the canopy and stand?

Just a quick shot,

 

[RobB'z Reef]

@BZOFIQ @najer @Reefer Reboot @kabal2 @RocketEngineer

Could you guys post some of your modular stands, actually have not seen one in production.

This is one I designed for my 180 (slightly over built but that's 'in' apparently), and while it wasn't the cheapest option it was the 'funnest' route for me while still being very functional and easy to work with and still allows lots of options in how I will eventually skin it. It's 24" wide and I still have 21" of usable depth inside it for the sump. There's more detail in my build thread.

theory:

reality:

 

[2BeAlive]

This is one I designed for my 180 (slightly over built but that's 'in' apparently), and while it wasn't the cheapest option it was the 'funnest' route for me while still being very functional and easy to work with and still allows lots of options in how I will eventually skin it. It's 24" wide and I still have 21" of usable depth inside it for the sump. There's more detail in my build thread.

theory:

reality:

OK, this way it looks simple to construct and sturdy.

I am considering to use the profile you have used for the legs, turn it on its side and use it as the horizontal beams. Do you think with a 4cm x 8cm profile I would be able to span 1.5m if I use three?

 

[RobB'z Reef]

OK, this way it looks simple to construct and sturdy.

I am considering to use the profile you have used for the legs, turn it on its side and use it as the horizontal beams. Do you think with a 4cm x 8cm profile I would be able to span 1.5m if I use three?

can you elaborate on what you mean by use three? Not sure i understand what you mean there.

 

[2BeAlive]

can you elaborate on what you mean by use three? Not sure i understand what you mean there.

I want to add a long horizontal beam in the middle of the stand so that the tank rest on and the weight is carried by these three beams without a central vertical pillar.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

Are you thinking something like this,

?

 

[Reefer Reboot]

Just saw your other questions, cladding it can be done a number of different ways. You could bolt the siding straight to the frame or use magnetic fasteners or hooks or Velcro or.......well you get the idea.
As far as strength, there are many calculators available online from the manufacturers of this material.
What size is your tank? Do you want the frame to be the exact size of the tanks footprint or a little larger to have a slight shelf around the tank? Are you going to be putting a solid top on the stand, something like a butcher block table top? Do you want the sump to sit directly on the floor inside of the stand or do you want the stand to support the bottom of the sump? Questions,questions, questions!

 

[RobB'z Reef]

Just saw your other questions, cladding it can be done a number of different ways. You could bolt the siding straight to the frame or use magnetic fasteners or hooks or Velcro or.......well you get the idea.
As far as strength, there are many calculators available online from the manufacturers of this material.
What size is your tank? Do you want the frame to be the exact size of the tanks footprint or a little larger to have a slight shelf around the tank? Are you going to be putting a solid top on the stand, something like a butcher block table top? Do you want the sump to sit directly on the floor inside of the stand or do you want the stand to support the bottom of the sump? Questions,questions, questions!

Nice work! With 3 beams a top board of some sort would be mandatory as at some scale you'd have a seesaw going on with a pressure point from one of those rails as they could never be all exactly on the same plane. A board and padding would eliminate that.

 

[2BeAlive]

Are you thinking something like this,

?

Yes, i would just put the outside long bars directly on the vertical legs to transfer the load better.

 

[2BeAlive]

Just saw your other questions, cladding it can be done a number of different ways. You could bolt the siding straight to the frame or use magnetic fasteners or hooks or Velcro or.......well you get the idea.
As far as strength, there are many calculators available online from the manufacturers of this material.
What size is your tank? Do you want the frame to be the exact size of the tanks footprint or a little larger to have a slight shelf around the tank? Are you going to be putting a solid top on the stand, something like a butcher block table top? Do you want the sump to sit directly on the floor inside of the stand or do you want the stand to support the bottom of the sump? Questions,questions, questions!

The (final) tank size will be 180cm x 60cm x 60cm (6f x 2f x 2f). Plan to do either a butcher block wood finish flush or a black fiber glass sheet, slightly recessed to create the Red Sea Reefer floating look. It is the 180cm span that worries me.

Will repeat the top at the bottom, with the sump resting on its own fibber glass sheet on the same beam configuration.

Thinking of putting legs under it to allow for fine-tune levelling the stand .

Saw a nice roller door option for the front, probable magnets for the side and back.

 

[2BeAlive]

Nice work! With 3 beams a top board of some sort would be mandatory as at some scale you'd have a seesaw going on with a pressure point from one of those rails as they could never be all exactly on the same plane. A board and padding would eliminate that.

Yes, I am a big believer in using fiber-glass sheets with a hard foam layer under the tank.