The Acclimation Box: Can This Thing Really Work?

[mitch91175]

Octoaquatics sells some nice ones...

Those are nice! They are pricey though . Still may look at one though. Also like the Octo lids too.

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

Nice article! I have the Same Elite Aquatics box. Built well but some gripes. The slits on the side are sharp, so be careful when wiping with hands or applying force. I cut myself.

Also, suction cups are strong, but difficult to remove since they are too small and behind the box to get fingernail in. I used a credit card instead.

If you have a plastic rim on top of tank, the lid won't open or close, so you have to be careful putting in fish without it getting out.

I add some chaeto in addition to pvc pipes. Provides more natural shelter and also may have some pods for snacking.

For extra security if you move the box down into the tank, I use an extra mag float cleaner on top of the lid to lock it down.

Pellets and food can be fed through the slits on top and side by placing under my autofeeder, or use turkey baster.

Exactly, the lid should be cut in half. The box could be shorter tough to get in a 24" wide tank.

 

[cracker]

Not a big fan. I feel they are too small & stuck out there right in the open , stresses a new fish. I like to use a tank divider . I set up my aqua scape where I can fit a piece of egg crate from front to back, even a little section top to bottom. Gives the new fish more room & preferably rock to hide. The established neighbors can look at it thru the eggcrate.

 

[huaisheng]

The Acclimation Box: Can This Thing Really Work?

Elite Aquatic’s Acclimation Box
​

Acclimation boxes are an essential tool for adding new fish to an existing tank, but a tool which is often overlooked or disregarded. I was once a skeptic myself, and I have a feeling many reading this are far from convinced. After all, how could this little clear box do much of anything? Let’s find out!

The general idea here is to place the acclimation box into the tank, and then place the new fish into the box. One or two PVC pieces in the box provide some cover for the fish, and the box allows you to feed the fish directly at feeding time. Then after 2-3 days or so (we will explore this timing in a bit), you let the new guy or gal out to swim freely among the established tank mates. The goal here is to diffuse potential aggression while removing the risk of injuries. By giving the established fish a chance to “check out” the new guy/gal with a safety barrier, social roles can be expressed without either the established or new fish being able to physically touch (injure) each other.

A young Cirrhilabrus earlei in an acclimation box with PVC pieces​

Now let me be clear; this is not a miracle tool! It will not permit you to add two species of fish which are conventionally incompatible with each other! However, it is a great tool for mixing similar species which may not always get along well. Personally, I am a devoted wrasse-keeper and I religiously use an acclimation box when adding new wrasses to my system. I am also an advocate of proper quarantine (QT) and urge you to do the same prior to adding new fish to your display tank.

When choosing an acclimation box, you may find there are a lot of choices on the market today. However, think function over form when making a selection. Be mindful of the mechanism the lid uses (hinged, sliding, or other), how the box attaches to the tank (suction cups v. hanging clips), etc. I cannot say I know of any one box on the market which is universal for every tank; you will have to decide which is best suited for you. My personal favorite is the Elite Aquatics box shown at the top of this article, and the reason it is my favorite is simple: the white acrylic bottom. I have another box which has a clear bottom, and sometimes fish stress out trying to escape through the bottom. A piece of plastic starboard on the bottom of a clear box could be just as effective as the white acrylic bottom.

Using an acclimation box is simple, but the important thing about using an acclimation box is vigilant observation from the aquarist. After the new fish is placed into the box, give them some time to settle down and for the established fish to take some interest in the new arrival. I like to take a seat across the room and watch from a distance; it becomes obvious very quickly when an established fish takes issue with the new addition. Watch for fish to approach the box and flash or display towards the new guy – this is fairly normal and expected to some degree – do not panic. If a fish “sees red” towards the new one, you will witness them trying to attack/nip the new fish through the acrylic. It is this latter situation where you are witnessing signs of incompatibility and must be patient over the next several days. Take a bit of time each day to observe from a distance; you are waiting for this type of behavior to cease. Under no circumstance should you release the new addition if these clear signs of incompatibility continue. Ideally, I like to leave the new addition in the box for 2-3 days to allow enough time to observe the existing fish but not unduly prolong any stress the box may cause on the new fish. If after 1 full day (including one night) all interactions look mild, then I may release the new fish, but I typically wait at least 2 days. If there are signs of aggression after 3 days, I continue to wait (watching for the aggression levels to drop daily). If by day 5 the situation does not improve, you should have a contingency plan in place for the new addition. This plan should not involve adding the new addition unless the aggressor is removed. If a week passes with the new fish in the box and there are still high levels of aggression, it’s time to abort the effort and accept the incompatibility. It’s worthwhile to leave the QT system operational during this time period, as it offers a convenient fallback/contingency plan for the new fish or the aggressor (assuming you can catch it!).

With wrasses, I seldom have the need to continue using the box past day 3. I continue to be amazed how much of a difference the box can make. I have seen very aggressive posturing and even nipping towards the new addition the first day and then nearly complete disinterest by day 3. I do not wish to imagine what would have happened without the box!

Give an acclimation box a try! I bet you will find your next experience of adding a new fish to your system a lot less stressful for you and for the fish!


If you love wrasse check out the Wrasse Lovers Thread.

For more information on all types of fish check out our fish discussion forum here.

 

[mitch91175]

Man as much as I like the Octo stuff, I am just gonna get the insect terranuim for $17 bucks. I am not gonna need to acclimate enough fish to justify spending $110 on the Octo (although it is pretty nice),

 

[mitch91175]

Not a big fan. I feel they are too small & stuck out there right in the open , stresses a new fish. I like to use a tank divider . I set up my aqua scape where I can fit a piece of egg crate from front to back, even a little section top to bottom. Gives the new fish more room & preferably rock to hide. The established neighbors can look at it thru the eggcrate.

That's actually a pretty good idea, but I have to change up my rockwork to do it like this. I am gonna change it again anyways so may look at this as an option. I am in no rush to do it right now since the Achilles is hanging out in the frag tank getting used to eating everything.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Just make sure the fish can not fit through the holes of the egg crate or the gap that may be left from when you cut to fit inside the tank. I tried this before.

 

[cracker]

agreed, I have to move a couple of rock pieces to make a clear path then put them back in place when done.

 

[ca1ore]

I made mine out of acrylic and eggcrate I had laying around. Clear acrylic for the sides, white for the bottom and black for the supports to hold it in place. It's big, almost 18" long, but not good for small fish that just swim right out though the eggcrate ends. I wanted one that would not block tank flow, be able to accommodate some PVC hiding spots and hang in the cutout on the top of my acrylic tank. Voila ...

 

[Greenstreet.1]

This is the mine.

IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180529/189ffc4a60061778f93745df2d21e287.jpg[/IMG]

 

[Johnny M]

Those are nice! They are pricey though . Still may look at one though. Also like the Octo lids too.

Forget the lids. You pay $100+ for a lid that's only warrantied for 30 days AND maker says to "avoid getting the screen wet as much as possible". R U kidding me, the lid sits 1-2" above the water. Like it's never going to get wet!
I'm going with Artfully Acrylic, 'clearview' lids. The poly-carbonate frame is guaranteed for 10yrs. and mesh screen will last on average 5+ yrs. with led lights and 3+ yrs. with metal halides. This is just an average maker says. Usually most last longer.

 

[Johnny M]

I thought "acclimation" means slowly adjusting water parameters with water fish came in, to the parameters of DT, usually thru 'drip method'.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

I thought "acclimation" means slowly adjusting water parameters with water fish came in, to the parameters of DT, usually thru 'drip method'.

This is for acclimating the new fish to the orders that’s already in the tank. It help to cut down aggression towards the new comers.

Now don’t think that this mean that you can use this to try and add fish together that don’t belong together it will not Work.

 

[evolved]

Sucks that the one the OP is using is discontinued. I am looking for something big enough to acclimate tangs.

I was not aware that they were. Via Facebook, it looks like they may still be making them on a request basis.

Turn a large one of these into one you can use a mag cleaner to hold it to the tank. I use the medium one as my acc box I just drilled some holes in it and use an old aqua mag that I had laying around.

And that's a good DIY alternative I've suggested elsewhere. However, an old Kevin Kohen (LA/DD) tip with going this route is to use a soldering iron to melt holes rather than drill them. Drilling can leave sharp edges - which is a potential source of cuts and infection on a fish.

I thought "acclimation" means slowly adjusting water parameters with water fish came in, to the parameters of DT, usually thru 'drip method'.

Think social acclimation. But yes, "acclimation" itself does mean something different. The common term on these boxes came to be before my time in the hobby.

 

[evolved]

Here's another affordable alternative some might consider:
https://premiumaquatics.com/products/choice-aquatics-md02-acclimation-box-dual-medium.html
I would still put white starboard or something in the bottom of any box that is clear.

 

[Josh Kraft]

Marine depot has a few. I got one but have not used it yet, I am hoping to tonight.

https://www.marinedepot.com/Marine_..._Aquariums-Marine_Depot-MD8111-FIMISC-vi.html

 

[Greenstreet.1]

These are nice also if you want to go this route.

 

[ca1ore]

I thought "acclimation" means slowly adjusting water parameters with water fish came in, to the parameters of DT, usually thru 'drip method'.

It is ...... which is why I prefer the term socialization box. Less confusing and more accurate.

 

[mitch91175]

Well I think I may have my first successful "socialization" complete. Let the Chevron tang out and he is swimming around in the from of the tank. Will know for sure tomorrow, but looks good so far.

Next will be the Achilles tang, but gonna keep him in the frag tank for a bit. Gonna do my rock work first before "socializing" him.

 

[Mariner00]

The Acclimation Box: Can This Thing Really Work?

Elite Aquatic’s Acclimation Box
​

Acclimation boxes are an essential tool for adding new fish to an existing tank, but a tool which is often overlooked or disregarded. I was once a skeptic myself, and I have a feeling many reading this are far from convinced. After all, how could this little clear box do much of anything? Let’s find out!

The general idea here is to place the acclimation box into the tank, and then place the new fish into the box. One or two PVC pieces in the box provide some cover for the fish, and the box allows you to feed the fish directly at feeding time. Then after 2-3 days or so (we will explore this timing in a bit), you let the new guy or gal out to swim freely among the established tank mates. The goal here is to diffuse potential aggression while removing the risk of injuries. By giving the established fish a chance to “check out” the new guy/gal with a safety barrier, social roles can be expressed without either the established or new fish being able to physically touch (injure) each other.

A young Cirrhilabrus earlei in an acclimation box with PVC pieces​

Now let me be clear; this is not a miracle tool! It will not permit you to add two species of fish which are conventionally incompatible with each other! However, it is a great tool for mixing similar species which may not always get along well. Personally, I am a devoted wrasse-keeper and I religiously use an acclimation box when adding new wrasses to my system. I am also an advocate of proper quarantine (QT) and urge you to do the same prior to adding new fish to your display tank.

When choosing an acclimation box, you may find there are a lot of choices on the market today. However, think function over form when making a selection. Be mindful of the mechanism the lid uses (hinged, sliding, or other), how the box attaches to the tank (suction cups v. hanging clips), etc. I cannot say I know of any one box on the market which is universal for every tank; you will have to decide which is best suited for you. My personal favorite is the Elite Aquatics box shown at the top of this article, and the reason it is my favorite is simple: the white acrylic bottom. I have another box which has a clear bottom, and sometimes fish stress out trying to escape through the bottom. A piece of plastic starboard on the bottom of a clear box could be just as effective as the white acrylic bottom.

Using an acclimation box is simple, but the important thing about using an acclimation box is vigilant observation from the aquarist. After the new fish is placed into the box, give them some time to settle down and for the established fish to take some interest in the new arrival. I like to take a seat across the room and watch from a distance; it becomes obvious very quickly when an established fish takes issue with the new addition. Watch for fish to approach the box and flash or display towards the new guy – this is fairly normal and expected to some degree – do not panic. If a fish “sees red” towards the new one, you will witness them trying to attack/nip the new fish through the acrylic. It is this latter situation where you are witnessing signs of incompatibility and must be patient over the next several days. Take a bit of time each day to observe from a distance; you are waiting for this type of behavior to cease. Under no circumstance should you release the new addition if these clear signs of incompatibility continue. Ideally, I like to leave the new addition in the box for 2-3 days to allow enough time to observe the existing fish but not unduly prolong any stress the box may cause on the new fish. If after 1 full day (including one night) all interactions look mild, then I may release the new fish, but I typically wait at least 2 days. If there are signs of aggression after 3 days, I continue to wait (watching for the aggression levels to drop daily). If by day 5 the situation does not improve, you should have a contingency plan in place for the new addition. This plan should not involve adding the new addition unless the aggressor is removed. If a week passes with the new fish in the box and there are still high levels of aggression, it’s time to abort the effort and accept the incompatibility. It’s worthwhile to leave the QT system operational during this time period, as it offers a convenient fallback/contingency plan for the new fish or the aggressor (assuming you can catch it!).

With wrasses, I seldom have the need to continue using the box past day 3. I continue to be amazed how much of a difference the box can make. I have seen very aggressive posturing and even nipping towards the new addition the first day and then nearly complete disinterest by day 3. I do not wish to imagine what would have happened without the box!

Give an acclimation box a try! I bet you will find your next experience of adding a new fish to your system a lot less stressful for you and for the fish!


If you love wrasse check out the Wrasse Lovers Thread.

For more information on all types of fish check out our fish discussion forum here.

I have an acc box and it's a versatile little unit. I use it for acclimation and when I'm not, I use it for chaeto//copepods and have even used it to house trunkless frag plugs. Its a medium sized box that Bubble Magus puts out. It's the RF200C model.