Yes, but that is not the interpretation that you literally wrote.
I was responding to a specific case example from the thread. But I know you don’t like to admit being wrong.
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Yes, but that is not the interpretation that you literally wrote.
Are we testing nitrite in established tanks because we're bored, or is somebody making money selling test kits?
My bold. But if you do not have that experience? If you are a newbie and want to know a little of what you are doing? Most advises say - test ammonia and nitrate in the start. Total ammonia tests are rather unreliable and in order to know if it is dangerous or not - you need to know your pH. temperature, altitude and salinitet. Nitrate tests is totally worthless in the start because of the processes ability to produce nitrite. What I´m saying - nitrite tests are rather reliable, proven and will give you a warning if the nitrification process will halt. If you do not use start up methods that is proven not to give halted nitrification processes (my method, use of used sand, stones and water or other biological proven methods) - a nitrite test is the only test you need in order to get a safe start. And it save you money. And if you chose a combined nitrite-nitrate product - you will have a test that is useful even after the start periodAre we testing nitrite in established tanks because we're bored, or is somebody making money selling test kits?
Nitrite has to be present in an elemental form in a tank with a bioload because ammonia has to get to nitrate somehow. My question is: so what? I don't bother testing ammonia in new tanks because I know the routine and how long it takes to cycle based on ecperience. Why give a flip about nitrite?
Even if nitrite was off in theory what are you going to do? Buy some special nitrite eating bacteria in a bottle?
I was responding to a specific case example from the thread.
lolBut I know you don’t like to admit being wrong.
This is why I wish I could curtate book marks of posts in my profile.
Though I am not sure if I'm tracking your explanation of the magnification factor on nitrites effect on nitrate readings and how it artificially skews them?
Also things like Hanna checkers, they're still pretty much using the color change from the metal salts reaction you were talking about in the original post but using a machine/light/lens interface vs out own lens light interpretation provided by our eyeballs?
I did this analyzes with Mastertronic. They use a spectrophotometer type of instrument to analyze the sample. They have calibrate this to suit Fauna More nitrite - nitrate test and Tropic Marines Pro nitrite - nitrate test. With other worlds they use the same technique as Hanna Checkers but use the reagents of these two brands. These two brands also openly tells which conversion factor the use. It is 100 for these two products. It means that if you have 0.02 ppm NO2 in your water (imo a very normal level) - it skew the nitrate readings with 2 ppm. If you nitrate reads 3 and the nitrite reads 0.02 ppm - it will give a real concentration of 1 ppm Nitrate.This is why I wish I could curtate book marks of posts in my profile.
Though I am not sure if I'm tracking your explanation of the magnification factor on nitrites effect on nitrate readings and how it artificially skews them?
Also things like Hanna checkers, they're still pretty much using the color change from the metal salts reaction you were talking about in the original post but using a machine/light/lens interface vs out own lens light interpretation provided by our eyeballs?
I do not understand why you take in ammonia in this discussion when i have stated both here and elsewhere that you can´t trust hobby ammonia tests but nitrite tests is more reliable and sensitive when the nitrification cycle goes wrong. That´s one reason among many to test nitrite.nitrite and ammonia testing,
We track those tanks... conversely in our threads... New cycling science