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I would think it would lend a hand at the very least.Going to put some stuff in this tonight and get it cycling. If I DONT glue the lid on will it still hold? Ie is the acrylic lid mandatory for it to be structurally sound?
Think I have a found good budget Mini wave maker for our desk top builds. Definably a good candidate for the lower section of the Drop-off tank.
ZKSJ Mini Slim Wave Maker
$44 from Amazon or $29 from AlieEpress with around 2weeks shipping time.
Just started playing with one and can say it moves water. Max 2000L/528GPH, 10speeds/4patterns
Only down side is there is not a timer but easy enough to add one.
I use their bottom feed return pumps, those work great. Confident in that brand.Think I have a found good budget Mini wave maker for our desk top builds. Definably a good candidate for the lower section of the Drop-off tank.
ZKSJ Mini Slim Wave Maker
$44 from Amazon or $29 from AlieEpress with around 2weeks shipping time.
Just started playing with one and can say it moves water. Max 2000L/528GPH, 10speeds/4patterns
Only down side is there is not a timer but easy enough to add one.
Rather have the whole top open. Similar to a rimless. Would like mangrove in main area not sump. Never got answer from Tenecor re if brace was necessary or not.Mangrove in sump area? Could cut off the back area of the Eurobrace to open up the sump area. 3 sided brace is enough strength around display area, and the baffles in sump create the strength to hold back wall in place. Can also cut of the back of the lid to have a usable lid and open top sump.
I thought they said no, but helpful for the lid or something?Rather have the whole top open. Similar to a rimless. Would like mangrove in main area not sump. Never got answer from Tenecor re if brace was necessary or not.
Rather have the whole top open. Similar to a rimless. Would like mangrove in main area not sump. Never got answer from Tenecor re if brace was necessary or not.
I’m not sure if this answers your question. Originally it was no top but then they changed it to be betterNo, it would not be insane to add a rim/top. That is the way it should be made. The challenge and tradeoff with these DIY projects we put up is that everyone wants to add another bell and another whistle. Most of them good ideas. It's not like we are not aware of them. But bells and whistles cost money. The original idea for this little guy was our standard design with media cup and one baffle. Almost all of our aio nano frags are filtered this way and hobbyists really like them. Then someone mentions "it would be really nice to have lid". Ok, that means it will be polycarbonate ($$). Then another hobbyists would like a media caddy. Ok, we can do that but again ($). The original cost of $39 included shipping but no polycarbonate lid or media caddy. The caddy itself is not very material intensive but the machine time does cost money. The polycarbonate lids we now offer are much thicker and more durable than our previous versions and they do cost a bit. Adding a top with perimeter bracing (never figured out where "Eurobrace" came from) would add another dollop of cost as that would be cut from a single piece of acrylic. Personally, this is the correct way to do it and all of our tanks are built this way with the exception of the small rimless frags. You have brought me to a fork in the road so to speak. Should we "do it right" and add the top (most excellent build quality) or keep it cheap and forego the top? Adding the top also presents challenges for the media caddy, clearing the slight edge that will be present over the inlet chamber. We work around that though. How much cost are we talking about? $10 more for a new price of $49. Now that I am well into my morning ramblings and my second cup of coffee, this is probably what we are going to do. Below is an image of our original desktop AIO designed and built in 1978. It's still running. That AIO is also a full wet/dry. No bowing or warping. It has a one piece top which makes all the difference. Oh and it is made from 1/8 inch acrylic. The flat back hex version of that tank was our best seller for many years. We were cranking out over 150 a day. Those little desktops with the orange bottoms from another company? They all will bow out at the top within a year and they won't make it past five. Below is another image of what our first crowd sourced nano now looks like. An amazing little tank that will last a lifetime. It also started out as a rimless design. Teaser: we are going to introduce an entire collection of AIO frags priced from $99 to $189. So, thank you for reminding me that as a company our first rule is to not sell stuff we don't want our name on. This DIY will be redesigned with a top, a lid and will remain at $39. My production guys already don't like me.
Over 45 years old and still running.
This is what the DIY Pico will resemble with square corners and lid. The original design of this nano was a crowd source here on R2R and this 3rd generation is the end result. Notice how the AIO chamber is not a true "coast to coast". This is a better design than that and makes the side views much nicer. The new AIO frags I mentioned above will look very similar to this at 10 inches high with lids (!). They will be made from 1/8 inch and priced very attractively. No, they will not bow. None.
Better? Because it will last 5 vs 1 year. I think my weldon skills are going to determine how long it lasts better then the bracing but what do I knowI’m not sure if this answers your question. Originally it was no top but then they changed it to be better
OK I thought the euro brace had to be a single solid piece that transversed the seams to "hold them together" Piecemealing them doesn't make sense in my head. Tank is already up running and got critters so may not be wise to use the weldon esp since I am using 4 at its watery. Was thinking silicone bc I can run a super fine bead and the "bracing" is more preventative then structural.If cutting up the Eurobrace doesn't work you could take a new piece of acrylic or cut up the web scrap piece that came with the kit. There is enough for 4) .5 to .75 wide strips to glue around the rim. I noted glue because Weldon is stronger than silicon to hold the acrylic together.
See editOK I thought the euro brace had to be a single solid piece that transversed the seams to "hold them together" Piecemealing them doesn't make sense in my head. Tank is already up running and got critters so may not be wise to use the weldon esp since I am using 4 at its watery. Was thinking silicone bc I can run a super fine bead and the "bracing" is more preventative then structural.
Second thought on the "One cross wise left to right above the AIO back." Being that it will be rather narrow and thin this piece most likely will warp over time. Reason the lids are Polycarbonate and not Acrylic.OK I thought the euro brace had to be a single solid piece that transversed the seams to "hold them together" Piecemealing them doesn't make sense in my head. Tank is already up running and got critters so may not be wise to use the weldon esp since I am using 4 at its watery. Was thinking silicone bc I can run a super fine bead and the "bracing" is more preventative then structural.