what the heck is this
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shwareefer
Valuable Member
beaucoup cyanobacteria
OP
OP
12PMER
Community Member
I'm currently running chemiclean. But this s#!t is relentless. I've done everything else siphon, scrape, scrub, blah, blah, blah and it comes back like an a effin ninja.
shwareefer
Valuable Member
Yep, it's like that. Fortunately it vanishes just as fast when things go right. What's your phosphate/nitrate levels?
ariellemermaid
Well-Known Member
Ok, but how? I’m having the same issue in a DT I’m about to decommission to an obs tank but whether I use a large or small bore siphon it just won’t suck up, like it’s too heavy. I guess I haven’t tried using the hose by itself though…. I’ve just been doing my regular cleaning for the past several weeks and it seems to mix it up enough that after 1-2 weeks it’s not so bad, but always comes back.
Spare time
10K Club member
If it is not responding to chemiclean, try api algaefix (I find this works better on spirulina algae which looks similar to cyano). Chemiclean usually takes 2-3 days. As someone else mentioned, could you list your nitrate and phosphate levels? Cyano isn't really a big deal and doesn't require drastic action, just a readjustment.
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Cyano - no doubt
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Supa
Well-Known Member
I’m fighting a similar battle I haven’t used any chemicals yet, I’m seeing good success with manual siphon it off the sand bed and turn the flow up a notch it does keep coming back but not as bad each time. A turkey Baster gets it off the rock easily…. I think I have it because I had low flow for a while, and over fed a little and maybe still do….
Icemaker/RO line works great
shwareefer
Valuable Member
Those are good numbers. I wouldn't change them trying to nuke it. Can you jack up the flow? How far are you into chemiclean treatment?
I had a brief amino-induced outbreak of green cyano and had a hard time siphoning it as well — eventually I put a cup in the tank and used tweezers to lift it into the cup.
Spare time
10K Club member
I would do two things. Raise the nitrate up (maybe to 10?), and then wait the period for chemiclean if it hasn't already been 3 days. If that doesn't work, consider algaefix. There are alternatives such as raising nitrate then dosing competitive bacteria (I like pns probio, waste away, microbacter clean, and similar). The bacterial method will take longer, but some people have a phobia of anything they consider a "chemical"
Don't change the light settings, don't go all out at war, and don't try and dramatically lower nitrate and phosphate with water changes. None of these things will help and they will only cause you more of a headache
shwareefer
Valuable Member
Ah, perhaps you just need to wait a couple days.
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