When is the right time to add coral?
- Thread starter Jakepen
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Section 5: The Cycle
image via rusticgirls
In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.
Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle
Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.
Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle
Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.
Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle
Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
Intermission:
You are not done yet! You may have cultivated a nice crop of groovy bacteria and your water may be clean as can be, but, there are still 3 more stages to the cycle process before you can start your stocking. Take this time to consume all of which you have already done. The next 3 stages often put fear into the eyes of many newcomers. These are perfectly natural and are partially a representation of how the earth became an oxygen rich planet. Before there was any oxygen breathing organisms, there was the evolution of Cyanobacteria. This is a photosynthetic bacteria that creates Oxygen as a byproduct. There are several colors, but the commonality is that it is like a slime. The Cyanobacteria spread over a vast area and the atmosphere became oxygen rich like we breath today, without the smog. Cyanobacteria is responsible for life as we know it. The same applies to the reef. Now that your mind has been blown you may move on to the next stage of the cycle.
Pre-Algae Cycle:
If your lights have not been setup yet do so now. Set your timers as you would for a reef tank. Anywhere from 6-12 hours is a good amount of time. Set the photoperiod to be on during the hours you will be viewing the tank most. If you work 2nd shift it is OK to have the lights come on after you get home from work or when you wake up in the morning. As long as there is not a supply of sunlight near the tank you wont have a long term battle with algae.
Stage 4: Diatoms
diatom algae image via reef2reef member Steven R
Diatoms are a brown dusty life form that consumes silicates. There is no avoiding Diatoms during their initial bloom. Leave it be. Let it go crazy. Before you know it, the brown stuff will soon start to change colors. Generally red, this is the start of the next stage!
Stage 5: Cyanobacteria
cyanobacteria image via reef2reef member murfman
Cyanobacteria will now begin its course. Again you will let the slime just do its thing. This will be the nastiest of the stages. Cyanobacteria can gross some people out, especially if they catch a whiff of it. It is best to leave it be. It will start to clear up eventually. The clearing of the slime makes way for yet another stage.
Stage 6: Green/Brown algae
hair algae image via reef2reef member johnmaloney
If you have made it this far, give yourself a round of applause. This is the final “battle” of the cycle process. When the slime is gone you will see your first signs of plant life, algae! Green Hair algae is usually the type that you see, but some other types have been known to occur. This stuff will grow like mad. At this point you are ready to move on to the next phase.
The cycle is a long process in terms of hobbies. Find yourself a good rhythm for testing. Get yourself in the habit of staring for long periods of time. Practice observation by watching as life forms start taking foot in the aquarium. You will see things from dust sized particles to worms that reach a foot long. There really is no telling what could form in your tank. This is a great time to prepare for the animals you will get. Knowing how to describe things and being able to correctly test the water will help you get the information you need. Your parameters are perfect now. You are now ready to move on to the next section. You should actually study the next section during your cycle, since you will have quite a bit of time on your hands with all that waiting.
Cycles can be artificially induced, but it is always preferred to use as little foreign liquids as possible. Another thing you can do during the cycle is preparing your clean up crew and first fish, but be prepared to keep them quarantined for a prolonged time since the cycle is unpredictable.
Section 6: Live Stock
mixed reef image via reef2reef member reefmp
A few holidays have passed, you have gone through a few types of hairstyles, and the seasons have changed dramatically. Your aquarium has gone from an idea in your head to a flowing ecosystem of algae and rock. You need to get some critters in there! But where do you begin? There are more bad combinations of marine animals than flavors of ice cream. Luckily, there are Compatibility charts that do the vague guessing for you. Locate these charts to help you get a picture of what does and does not mix. Some fish are obvious. Mixing a shark and a seahorse are not a good idea. When you get into the fish of the reef there are some unexpected no-no’s. A huge tang could fall victim to even a small blenny bullying or nipping at him. Stocking will be more research than anything. It is improbable the part time employee at your LFS has a mental encyclopedia of everything they sell. Always check for yourself anyways. If you plan on having predator fish you can skip the clean up crew and corals since they will either get eaten or destroyed. Every animal you buy WILL NEED QUARANTINED.
Quarantine and Acclimation:
image via Advanced Aquarist
Quarantine tanks can be as simple as a bucket or you can setup a larger system if you plan to have larger fish. All the tank needs is flow, observation worthy light, and some hiding spots. You will want to use proven methods and avoid the herbal approaches like garlic.
Invertebrates (excluding corals) cannot be medicated. The can be carriers of parasites like ich that feed off fish. To prevent Ich from being transferred into your tank they will need to reside in a tank by themselves for 8 weeks. Keep the water aerated, give them some food now and then, and do periodic water changed to keep it fresh. It takes 8 weeks to starve the parasite. After that time period you can acclimate them into the aquarium.
Fish almost always have to be treated. Ich is present in most systems that deal with selling livestock. It is more cost efficient for them to leave the medicating up to you. There are a few trusted techniques for quarantine. Hyposalinity and copper treatment are the two most sure ways to kill anything that is not a fish.
Corals have their own predators as well. The first thing a lot of people do is dip their corals in a Lugol’s Solution, or Iodine. This disinfects them and often kills or irritates anything on them enough to jump off. Keeping them in quarantine until you are sure you rid any pests is very important or you risk growing these predators in your main system. Aptasia are another common hitch hiker. These can be injected with hot vinegar or lemon juice. What ever the problem, there is a solution. This is where your photography skills will first come into play when you are trying to identify problems. There are many methods of quarantine. Research the techniques and find one that is right for you. There will never be a perfect method for all. Ask your reef buddies how they approach certain problems. If you skip quarantine you may one day have to remove every animal in your tank later.
Acclimating livestock varies in time, but is the same as far as methods. It come in handy to have a large jar so you can view your animal. Simply siphon water from your display tank into the jar. You want to have an air valve or a knot so that the water drips into the container. To determine the acclimation time for your animal you can just look it up online, which you should know before purchasing.
CHOICE GUIDE:
Clean-up Crew:
hermit crab image via reef2reef member Rickyrooz
These guys do all the dirty work. They eat algae, detritus, dead animals, and whatever else makes its way into their grasp. Crabs, stars, snails, conchs, nudibranch, urchins, cowries, pods, and worms are only a small number of the available types of animals you can find. A variety of them is always best since they are each designed for their own reasons. Every breed of invertebrate has its exceptions. There are starfish that eat other animals you may want to keep. Some crabs grow into coral eating monsters. Some urchins can grow as large as soccer balls.
Snails are easy to pick. They rarely sell dangerous snails. Turbo, astrea, nerite, and cortez snails are good beginner species. I add one of each and observe them. Which species cleans the most, the fastest, or gets the hidden areas the best? Judge what areas need more attention and stock more snails that work that area well. Snails will clean parts of the glass, but you will always need to manually clean it. Do not rely on them for a clean window.
Hermits are not completely necessary, and can be known to steal a snails shell here and there. They are amazing creatures that work their claw off at all times. Some grow huge, but some stay small. Blue and red legged hermits are the lesser aggressive species that stays small.
Serpent stars and Brittle stars are good for a reef tank. They will be unseen for days until you feed and they come running on all fives, immediately cleaning the sand bed. They are quite impressive to watch scurry about. Sand sifters are good if you are not relying on a live sand bed. They stir the sand, but they eat all the good critters that live there. Urchins can be good, but they are very closely related to starfish and can also be predatory. Research the urchin you are looking at buying, it may be a crab hunter.
For more advanced inverts like shrimp and nudibranch it is best to learn about the species. Every nudibranch eats something different. Some can even eat coral. There is a ton of information out there and if you find an animal with no helpful info it is best to avoid it all together.
Fish:
Desjardini tang image via reef2reef member mike&terry
There are a ton of fish out there. Some are cheap and some cost more than the tank they will live in. There is no better way to come up with a stock list than going out and looking at the fish in person. Write a list of all that interest you and look them up. Do they seem like they are the right size? Are they compatible with each other? With Inverts? With Corals? Do tons of research. This is your first tank. You can go for the advanced creatures on your next round. Starting with peaceful hardy fish makes life a lot easier. Fish are not required, there are beautiful tanks with no fish.
A good way to organize your wish list is take a note of all the fish that tickle your fancy and then go home and investigate. Sometimes it is just easier to post your list online and take peoples input. People are dying to prevent you from making mistakes. Please let them help you. If you ask a question that has been answered they will point you the right way to get your reef in order. There are too many varieties to have a perfect formula. The animals diet is the single most important thing to consider. Some fish love corals, others love ornamental shrimp. Learn not only what the species does in the aquarium, but in the wild as well. They may spend their lives hunting animals you may want to mix with them.
Corals:
There are 4 major coral types. SPS, LPS, Softies, and NPS. Each type has its own requirements, and each coral within each category has its own even more specific needs. The type of corals you choose will be the sole factor behind your final flow rate, style, and your lighting and filtration. Some corals will even need to be fed in various manners. Not knowing what each coral you want needs is like buying a turtle and trying to feed it steak.
SPS
sps coral photo via reef2reef member gws3
Small Polyp Stony corals, or SPS, are the most demanding as far as quality of light and water. These corals consume high levels of Calcium and the Alkalinity will also need constant upkeep. These corals often require more stable water and will need more attention to parameters. Adding Kalkwasser to your topoff water can be a great way to keep these corals growing. Some SPS include Acropora, Montipora, and Hydnophora. These are constructed of a calcium based skeleton with a flesh that coveres them. The pours on the skeleton have tiny polyps that come out and feed from the water column. Each polyp is an individual animal, though connected by a similar flesh and structure.
LPS
Acanthophyllia Deshayesiana (meat coral) image via reef2reef member Fishinfool
Large Polyp Stony corals are less demanding. They do well in medium to lower lighting and medium flow. These also have a calcified skeleton, but the polyps are much larger. Chalice coral, Brain corals, Duncan corals, Candy Canes, and Acans are just a few. These are more hands on. You can actually feed the mouths of each polyp and it will eat like a venus fly trap, some large enough to eat entire krill in one gulp! These also require a source of calcium. The water quality can be a little less attended, but they will thrive in clean, stable water.
Softies
toadstool leather (center) image via reef2reef member donfishy
These are generally the easiest corals. Kenya tree, mushrooms, Zoas, Xenia, Star polyps. Anything that does not have a skeleton falls in this category. They can live in low light and low flow for the most part. Some softies can live in any level of lighting, and some grow Too fast. These are the easiest to grow, but so are dandelions. Weeds are not only in your yard. Some corals can take off in your tank to the point of insanity. Make sure you research ways to maintain plague corals or you could have your own unintentional Pulsing Xenia farm.
NPS
sun coral image via reef2reef member Dixie_reefer
Non-Photosynthetic corals are the hardest to keep. They require constant food and superb water quality. They are best kept for the professional as they require very unique methods of upkeep. These corals are known to rapidly deteriorate, if you do attempt one you must research its needs and be ready to remove it if it starts to rot. Sun coral, Gorgonians, and Sponges are a few examples of NPS corals.
After quarantine you will be ready to start adding the corals to your tank. For the first week or two they will be loose, and need a close watch. Critters can knock them over or even take them. Every coral you get is best started on the sand bed and worked towards the spot you want them in over the course of a couple weeks to acclimate them to the lighting and flow. When you have them in the spot they shall reside you can use Super Glue Gel or Reef Putty to bond the corals to the rock. Take the coral out of the water and put a large glob of glue on the rock or plug it is attached to and stick it in place under water. In a few minutes the glue will be completely dry. By the time the superglue comes apart the coral will have already grown onto the rock. There are many other ways to bond corals so check around for how others have done theirs if you have something that you are having trouble attaching to something.
image via rusticgirls
In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.
Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle
Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.
Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle
Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.
Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle
Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
Intermission:
You are not done yet! You may have cultivated a nice crop of groovy bacteria and your water may be clean as can be, but, there are still 3 more stages to the cycle process before you can start your stocking. Take this time to consume all of which you have already done. The next 3 stages often put fear into the eyes of many newcomers. These are perfectly natural and are partially a representation of how the earth became an oxygen rich planet. Before there was any oxygen breathing organisms, there was the evolution of Cyanobacteria. This is a photosynthetic bacteria that creates Oxygen as a byproduct. There are several colors, but the commonality is that it is like a slime. The Cyanobacteria spread over a vast area and the atmosphere became oxygen rich like we breath today, without the smog. Cyanobacteria is responsible for life as we know it. The same applies to the reef. Now that your mind has been blown you may move on to the next stage of the cycle.
Pre-Algae Cycle:
If your lights have not been setup yet do so now. Set your timers as you would for a reef tank. Anywhere from 6-12 hours is a good amount of time. Set the photoperiod to be on during the hours you will be viewing the tank most. If you work 2nd shift it is OK to have the lights come on after you get home from work or when you wake up in the morning. As long as there is not a supply of sunlight near the tank you wont have a long term battle with algae.
Stage 4: Diatoms
diatom algae image via reef2reef member Steven R
Diatoms are a brown dusty life form that consumes silicates. There is no avoiding Diatoms during their initial bloom. Leave it be. Let it go crazy. Before you know it, the brown stuff will soon start to change colors. Generally red, this is the start of the next stage!
Stage 5: Cyanobacteria
cyanobacteria image via reef2reef member murfman
Cyanobacteria will now begin its course. Again you will let the slime just do its thing. This will be the nastiest of the stages. Cyanobacteria can gross some people out, especially if they catch a whiff of it. It is best to leave it be. It will start to clear up eventually. The clearing of the slime makes way for yet another stage.
Stage 6: Green/Brown algae
hair algae image via reef2reef member johnmaloney
If you have made it this far, give yourself a round of applause. This is the final “battle” of the cycle process. When the slime is gone you will see your first signs of plant life, algae! Green Hair algae is usually the type that you see, but some other types have been known to occur. This stuff will grow like mad. At this point you are ready to move on to the next phase.
The cycle is a long process in terms of hobbies. Find yourself a good rhythm for testing. Get yourself in the habit of staring for long periods of time. Practice observation by watching as life forms start taking foot in the aquarium. You will see things from dust sized particles to worms that reach a foot long. There really is no telling what could form in your tank. This is a great time to prepare for the animals you will get. Knowing how to describe things and being able to correctly test the water will help you get the information you need. Your parameters are perfect now. You are now ready to move on to the next section. You should actually study the next section during your cycle, since you will have quite a bit of time on your hands with all that waiting.
Cycles can be artificially induced, but it is always preferred to use as little foreign liquids as possible. Another thing you can do during the cycle is preparing your clean up crew and first fish, but be prepared to keep them quarantined for a prolonged time since the cycle is unpredictable.
Section 6: Live Stock
mixed reef image via reef2reef member reefmp
A few holidays have passed, you have gone through a few types of hairstyles, and the seasons have changed dramatically. Your aquarium has gone from an idea in your head to a flowing ecosystem of algae and rock. You need to get some critters in there! But where do you begin? There are more bad combinations of marine animals than flavors of ice cream. Luckily, there are Compatibility charts that do the vague guessing for you. Locate these charts to help you get a picture of what does and does not mix. Some fish are obvious. Mixing a shark and a seahorse are not a good idea. When you get into the fish of the reef there are some unexpected no-no’s. A huge tang could fall victim to even a small blenny bullying or nipping at him. Stocking will be more research than anything. It is improbable the part time employee at your LFS has a mental encyclopedia of everything they sell. Always check for yourself anyways. If you plan on having predator fish you can skip the clean up crew and corals since they will either get eaten or destroyed. Every animal you buy WILL NEED QUARANTINED.
Quarantine and Acclimation:
image via Advanced Aquarist
Quarantine tanks can be as simple as a bucket or you can setup a larger system if you plan to have larger fish. All the tank needs is flow, observation worthy light, and some hiding spots. You will want to use proven methods and avoid the herbal approaches like garlic.
Invertebrates (excluding corals) cannot be medicated. The can be carriers of parasites like ich that feed off fish. To prevent Ich from being transferred into your tank they will need to reside in a tank by themselves for 8 weeks. Keep the water aerated, give them some food now and then, and do periodic water changed to keep it fresh. It takes 8 weeks to starve the parasite. After that time period you can acclimate them into the aquarium.
Fish almost always have to be treated. Ich is present in most systems that deal with selling livestock. It is more cost efficient for them to leave the medicating up to you. There are a few trusted techniques for quarantine. Hyposalinity and copper treatment are the two most sure ways to kill anything that is not a fish.
Corals have their own predators as well. The first thing a lot of people do is dip their corals in a Lugol’s Solution, or Iodine. This disinfects them and often kills or irritates anything on them enough to jump off. Keeping them in quarantine until you are sure you rid any pests is very important or you risk growing these predators in your main system. Aptasia are another common hitch hiker. These can be injected with hot vinegar or lemon juice. What ever the problem, there is a solution. This is where your photography skills will first come into play when you are trying to identify problems. There are many methods of quarantine. Research the techniques and find one that is right for you. There will never be a perfect method for all. Ask your reef buddies how they approach certain problems. If you skip quarantine you may one day have to remove every animal in your tank later.
Acclimating livestock varies in time, but is the same as far as methods. It come in handy to have a large jar so you can view your animal. Simply siphon water from your display tank into the jar. You want to have an air valve or a knot so that the water drips into the container. To determine the acclimation time for your animal you can just look it up online, which you should know before purchasing.
CHOICE GUIDE:
Clean-up Crew:
hermit crab image via reef2reef member Rickyrooz
These guys do all the dirty work. They eat algae, detritus, dead animals, and whatever else makes its way into their grasp. Crabs, stars, snails, conchs, nudibranch, urchins, cowries, pods, and worms are only a small number of the available types of animals you can find. A variety of them is always best since they are each designed for their own reasons. Every breed of invertebrate has its exceptions. There are starfish that eat other animals you may want to keep. Some crabs grow into coral eating monsters. Some urchins can grow as large as soccer balls.
Snails are easy to pick. They rarely sell dangerous snails. Turbo, astrea, nerite, and cortez snails are good beginner species. I add one of each and observe them. Which species cleans the most, the fastest, or gets the hidden areas the best? Judge what areas need more attention and stock more snails that work that area well. Snails will clean parts of the glass, but you will always need to manually clean it. Do not rely on them for a clean window.
Hermits are not completely necessary, and can be known to steal a snails shell here and there. They are amazing creatures that work their claw off at all times. Some grow huge, but some stay small. Blue and red legged hermits are the lesser aggressive species that stays small.
Serpent stars and Brittle stars are good for a reef tank. They will be unseen for days until you feed and they come running on all fives, immediately cleaning the sand bed. They are quite impressive to watch scurry about. Sand sifters are good if you are not relying on a live sand bed. They stir the sand, but they eat all the good critters that live there. Urchins can be good, but they are very closely related to starfish and can also be predatory. Research the urchin you are looking at buying, it may be a crab hunter.
For more advanced inverts like shrimp and nudibranch it is best to learn about the species. Every nudibranch eats something different. Some can even eat coral. There is a ton of information out there and if you find an animal with no helpful info it is best to avoid it all together.
Fish:
Desjardini tang image via reef2reef member mike&terry
There are a ton of fish out there. Some are cheap and some cost more than the tank they will live in. There is no better way to come up with a stock list than going out and looking at the fish in person. Write a list of all that interest you and look them up. Do they seem like they are the right size? Are they compatible with each other? With Inverts? With Corals? Do tons of research. This is your first tank. You can go for the advanced creatures on your next round. Starting with peaceful hardy fish makes life a lot easier. Fish are not required, there are beautiful tanks with no fish.
A good way to organize your wish list is take a note of all the fish that tickle your fancy and then go home and investigate. Sometimes it is just easier to post your list online and take peoples input. People are dying to prevent you from making mistakes. Please let them help you. If you ask a question that has been answered they will point you the right way to get your reef in order. There are too many varieties to have a perfect formula. The animals diet is the single most important thing to consider. Some fish love corals, others love ornamental shrimp. Learn not only what the species does in the aquarium, but in the wild as well. They may spend their lives hunting animals you may want to mix with them.
Corals:
There are 4 major coral types. SPS, LPS, Softies, and NPS. Each type has its own requirements, and each coral within each category has its own even more specific needs. The type of corals you choose will be the sole factor behind your final flow rate, style, and your lighting and filtration. Some corals will even need to be fed in various manners. Not knowing what each coral you want needs is like buying a turtle and trying to feed it steak.
SPS
sps coral photo via reef2reef member gws3
Small Polyp Stony corals, or SPS, are the most demanding as far as quality of light and water. These corals consume high levels of Calcium and the Alkalinity will also need constant upkeep. These corals often require more stable water and will need more attention to parameters. Adding Kalkwasser to your topoff water can be a great way to keep these corals growing. Some SPS include Acropora, Montipora, and Hydnophora. These are constructed of a calcium based skeleton with a flesh that coveres them. The pours on the skeleton have tiny polyps that come out and feed from the water column. Each polyp is an individual animal, though connected by a similar flesh and structure.
LPS
Acanthophyllia Deshayesiana (meat coral) image via reef2reef member Fishinfool
Large Polyp Stony corals are less demanding. They do well in medium to lower lighting and medium flow. These also have a calcified skeleton, but the polyps are much larger. Chalice coral, Brain corals, Duncan corals, Candy Canes, and Acans are just a few. These are more hands on. You can actually feed the mouths of each polyp and it will eat like a venus fly trap, some large enough to eat entire krill in one gulp! These also require a source of calcium. The water quality can be a little less attended, but they will thrive in clean, stable water.
Softies
toadstool leather (center) image via reef2reef member donfishy
These are generally the easiest corals. Kenya tree, mushrooms, Zoas, Xenia, Star polyps. Anything that does not have a skeleton falls in this category. They can live in low light and low flow for the most part. Some softies can live in any level of lighting, and some grow Too fast. These are the easiest to grow, but so are dandelions. Weeds are not only in your yard. Some corals can take off in your tank to the point of insanity. Make sure you research ways to maintain plague corals or you could have your own unintentional Pulsing Xenia farm.
NPS
sun coral image via reef2reef member Dixie_reefer
Non-Photosynthetic corals are the hardest to keep. They require constant food and superb water quality. They are best kept for the professional as they require very unique methods of upkeep. These corals are known to rapidly deteriorate, if you do attempt one you must research its needs and be ready to remove it if it starts to rot. Sun coral, Gorgonians, and Sponges are a few examples of NPS corals.
After quarantine you will be ready to start adding the corals to your tank. For the first week or two they will be loose, and need a close watch. Critters can knock them over or even take them. Every coral you get is best started on the sand bed and worked towards the spot you want them in over the course of a couple weeks to acclimate them to the lighting and flow. When you have them in the spot they shall reside you can use Super Glue Gel or Reef Putty to bond the corals to the rock. Take the coral out of the water and put a large glob of glue on the rock or plug it is attached to and stick it in place under water. In a few minutes the glue will be completely dry. By the time the superglue comes apart the coral will have already grown onto the rock. There are many other ways to bond corals so check around for how others have done theirs if you have something that you are having trouble attaching to something.
Gpettit721
Active Member
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what kind of corals were you thinking?
OP
OP
Jakepen
Few beers and I'll frag anything...
It's a IM fusion 30 gallon. Seeded it with 250ml of bio Spira, coverts 3ppm to zero in 24 hours. Ammonia is zero, nitrites zero, nitrates last time I tested were at 5 (they were incredibly high, was dosing to much ammonia for ten days straight), but I just did another 5 gallon change, will test again soon, change water if needed. Using all Red Sea test kits.
Gpettit721
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OP
OP
Jakepen
Few beers and I'll frag anything...
Hah ballsy. I was nervous to put in my CUC!! Just that learning curve is so intimidating, I'm sure some experienced reefers have forgotten the feeling.
Gpettit721
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Just shy of a month. Not first tank
Gpettit721
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What are the rest of your parameters.
Lonny
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There are guidelines to go by but the truth is no two tanks are the same. Even if the parameters are identical How the two act and what does well in them is often dramatically different. I have a 130gl tank with a 25gl sump. I have chato in the fuge, a cuc of various snails and hermits. My tank completed the cycle Feb 2. By completed I mean nitrite went to zero. I think at one point early on I barely had measurable nitrate but my po4 was high. I had two clown fish in the tank just before nitrite went to zero. I now have six fish and 21 corals including sps, lps, and softies. I went thru the diatom bloom shortly after it cycled and it went away on its own. I never have seen hair algae or anything like that. The only algae I have right now is green coralline. Not to say I won't battle algae issues in the future but haven't had to as of now.
My point is find all the information you can and then apply only the things that work with your system. You'll only figure that out by research, trial and error, and close daily observation. Jmo
My point is find all the information you can and then apply only the things that work with your system. You'll only figure that out by research, trial and error, and close daily observation. Jmo
Gpettit721
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Very true you never know in this hobby
Oscaror
Back In It
Hair algae also irritates coral
Lonny
Well-Known Member
That's what for me makes this hobby so addictive! You never stop learning. My friend that has been reefing for over ten years now says he's still learning. He has a 120 95% sps tank and a 29 sps cube. He doesn't test anymore unless he sees a reason to. He does monitor temp ph and salinity. I am nowhere near that stage but I'll get there.
Gpettit721
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Yea I test a lot until I get to know the tanks personality then I'll slowly start backing off unless I have a reason too
I find this whole conversation interesting. I understand it have done it in freshwater ( cycled a tank or more than once) now I have done a small tank of ten gallons. Going to make it my QT tank. Put live rock in it back in Dec it took until middle of March to cycle the nitrogen cycle. That is with Bio Spira and stability and then finally live rock. I never had algae in it. And I don't believe diatoms. I now have a 45 gallon JBJ nano with live (10 Lbs) and (30 lbs)dry rock ( I cycled the dry in with live rock in 5 gallons buckets for a month and also used Dr Tims ammonia and stuff ( in a seaparate bucket not with the live rock) I put in the 45 60 Lbs of Fiji live sand and all of the live rock. I bought Red Sea reef mature Pro Kit and told myself I was going to follow the instruction to the letter. I have no monkeying around ( which I did on the QT tank) follow the direction. It is day 6 of the instruction and yesterday's instructions say that you will see hair algae diatoms and so on in the tank and they will stay to almost the end of the cycle ( 21 days total) guess what no algae no nothing. Now the kit does say to put in live rock, live sand and a skimmer. Which I have and its producing watery light brown ski mate)
So my question is why no algae and diatoms ( parameters are good ammonia:0, nitrite: 0, nitrates: 02, alkalinity : 3.9, Ph:8.2 and salinity:1.025)
Today's instructions are a 5% water change and adding bacto start, Nitro Bac and NO3O4-X
Am I ahead of everything? The QT tank has lost 3 snails, 4 crabs in two months. But we have had one crab survive and have had two clowns for three weeks and they are doing fine. No I'm not ready to add them to the DT
I'm just curious why I haven't had the algae and am I doing something wrong
So my question is why no algae and diatoms ( parameters are good ammonia:0, nitrite: 0, nitrates: 02, alkalinity : 3.9, Ph:8.2 and salinity:1.025)
Today's instructions are a 5% water change and adding bacto start, Nitro Bac and NO3
O4-XAm I ahead of everything? The QT tank has lost 3 snails, 4 crabs in two months. But we have had one crab survive and have had two clowns for three weeks and they are doing fine. No I'm not ready to add them to the DT
I'm just curious why I haven't had the algae and am I doing something wrong
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