When is the right time to add coral?

[_Conway]

Yes stability is important and there is a range for those parameters you would aim for.
Personally I usually have to add some calcium to my new water to match the tank.
During the week the tank consumes so I have to dose a little kh and cal.

When I do w.c. I check new water to maintain stability.

Really, what kind of coral do you have?[/QUOTE]
I've had a Duncan for about a year, recently added a patch of green star polyps, some favia and a torch. Added new T5 lighting really helped.

My first go at Coral I killed a torch and a candy cane. So I waited a while to try again. Nothing special here I've taken on easy corals till I'm sure I can handle it.

I just learned a couple of weeks ago to shake up the salt bucket before mixing.

 

[Jakepen]

If you don't know what your parameters are to begin with then how will you ever be able to know what stable is... Not to mention when you add corals to a tank it's good to know the parameters of both systems in order to acclimate properly... And it may have been mentioned earlier but a QT wouldn't be a bad idea either

Well I would test my water before adding coral. If I was able to add coral tomorrow, I would test my water tonight, than continue to monitor it and test regularly. I planned on dipping all coral in coral dip rx.

 

[Jakepen]

Really, what kind of coral do you have?

I've had a Duncan for about a year, recently added a patch of green star polyps, some favia and a torch. Added new T5 lighting really helped.

My first go at Coral I killed a torch and a candy cane. So I waited a while to try again. Nothing special here I've taken on easy corals till I'm sure I can handle it.

I just learned a couple of weeks ago to shake up the salt bucket before mixing.[/QUOTE]


What do you mean shake the salt bucket? the bucket that holds your salt, or after you mix with RODI shake it?

 

[_Conway]

I've had a Duncan for about a year, recently added a patch of green star polyps, some favia and a torch. Added new T5 lighting really helped.

My first go at Coral I killed a torch and a candy cane. So I waited a while to try again. Nothing special here I've taken on easy corals till I'm sure I can handle it.

I just learned a couple of weeks ago to shake up the salt bucket before mixing.

What do you mean shake the salt bucket? the bucket that holds your salt, or after you mix with RODI shake it?[/QUOTE]
The dry salt itself. Smaller particles can settle to the bottom leaving the mixture uneven. Shake stir or roll the bucket around to help redistribute the particles evenly.

 

[Jakepen]

What do you mean shake the salt bucket? the bucket that holds your salt, or after you mix with RODI shake it?

The dry salt itself. Smaller particles can settle to the bottom leaving the mixture uneven. Shake stir or roll the bucket around to help redistribute the particles evenly.[/QUOTE]
Good to know, thanks!

 

[Gpettit721]

Some manufactures actually do recommend this practice.

 

[_Conway]

http://

 

[reeferfoxx]

Since he said he added 250ml of Bio-Spira(bacteria), to the best of my knowledge, he may not experience a full out 6 stage or whatever cycle? They call that stuff a miracle in a bottle. That "6 stage" cycle is more reserved for DT curing of dry live rock?

 

[JPSika08]

Really interesting thread.

Quick question and sorry to vandalize the OP.
I have some experience in reef aquariums and have cycled some system prior to my actual one.

With my actual one, I really don't know where I went wrong, the system has been cycling for over 90 days now, some quick history of this tank, when I began cycling I introduced a LOT of ammonia, at least above 10ppm, it took at least a month to come down and first signs of nitrite began appearing, of course, these went off the chart quickly and probably the cycled stall as they wouldn't come down after two months and after doing a 25% water change, this are the actual stats of the water,

Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrites at 0.1ppm
Nitrates: 50ppm
PH: 8.3 - 8.4
Salinity 1.023
Temp 24C

I have introduced Ammonia again to 1ppm and it took for the system to process it to zero in over three days, then nitrites stuck for almost a week at 4ppm and then started to come down, never to 0.
I'm really at the verge of emptying the tank and starting all over again. Before that, a friend of mine with a well-established system gave me some live rocks and sand, also, I have been dosing Microbacter 7 for additional bacteria in the system and lastly, I'm force cycling the tank as I introduced three raw shrimp in the water to elevate the ammonia.

Can someone please shed a light on me with this?

Thank you.

 

[Gpettit721]

Really interesting thread.

Quick question and sorry to vandalize the OP.
I have some experience in reef aquariums and have cycled some system prior to my actual one.

With my actual one, I really don't know where I went wrong, the system has been cycling for over 90 days now, some quick history of this tank, when I began cycling I introduced a LOT of ammonia, at least above 10ppm, it took at least a month to come down and first signs of nitrite began appearing, of course, these went off the chart quickly and probably the cycled stall as they wouldn't come down after two months and after doing a 25% water change, this are the actual stats of the water,

Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrites at 0.1ppm
Nitrates: 50ppm
PH: 8.3 - 8.4
Salinity 1.023
Temp 24C

I have introduced Ammonia again to 1ppm and it took for the system to process it to zero in over three days, then nitrites stuck for almost a week at 4ppm and then started to come down, never to 0.
I'm really at the verge of emptying the tank and starting all over again. Before that, a friend of mine with a well-established system gave me some live rocks and sand, also, I have been dosing Microbacter 7 for additional bacteria in the system and lastly, I'm force cycling the tank as I introduced three raw shrimp in the water to elevate the ammonia.

Can someone please shed a light on me with this?

Thank you.

Dumb question how throughly did you rinse the test vile after using? The reason I ask is cause I have rinsed them and then realized they weren't rinsed well enough after a long time of scratching my head. Your nitrite could be showing at .1 because of residue in the test vile

 

[JPSika08]

Dumb question how throughly did you rinse the test vile after using? The reason I ask is cause I have rinsed them and then realized they weren't rinsed well enough after a long time of scratching my head. Your nitrite could be showing at .1 because of residue in the test vile

Hi, I rinse them thoroughly, I also used to think that this may have been a problem, so I opted to test newly made saltwater and the test came out at zero.

 

[JPSika08]

Just to add some notes on the cycle, I have lots of cyanobacteria on the rocks and sand right now.

Should I move this questions to another thread? This isn't my thread after all and I don't want to vandalize it.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Really interesting thread.

Quick question and sorry to vandalize the OP.
I have some experience in reef aquariums and have cycled some system prior to my actual one.

With my actual one, I really don't know where I went wrong, the system has been cycling for over 90 days now, some quick history of this tank, when I began cycling I introduced a LOT of ammonia, at least above 10ppm, it took at least a month to come down and first signs of nitrite began appearing, of course, these went off the chart quickly and probably the cycled stall as they wouldn't come down after two months and after doing a 25% water change, this are the actual stats of the water,

Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrites at 0.1ppm
Nitrates: 50ppm
PH: 8.3 - 8.4
Salinity 1.023
Temp 24C

I have introduced Ammonia again to 1ppm and it took for the system to process it to zero in over three days, then nitrites stuck for almost a week at 4ppm and then started to come down, never to 0.
I'm really at the verge of emptying the tank and starting all over again. Before that, a friend of mine with a well-established system gave me some live rocks and sand, also, I have been dosing Microbacter 7 for additional bacteria in the system and lastly, I'm force cycling the tank as I introduced three raw shrimp in the water to elevate the ammonia.

Can someone please shed a light on me with this?

Thank you.

You never mentioned water changes. Once your ammonia converts to nitrites, you need to perform water changes to help the nitrogen cycle. I would start with 20-25% weekly water changes. Part of this has to do with oxygen reduction and that is the key for the nitrogen cycle to complete.

 

[_Conway]

Just to add some notes on the cycle, I have lots of cyanobacteria on the rocks and sand right now.

Should I move this questions to another thread? This isn't my thread after all and I don't want to vandalize it.

You may get more help if you start a thread about your cycle issue.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Just to add some notes on the cycle, I have lots of cyanobacteria on the rocks and sand right now.

Should I move this questions to another thread? This isn't my thread after all and I don't want to vandalize it.

Refer to post number 3 in this thread.

 

[_Conway]

You never mentioned water changes. Once your ammonia converts to nitrites, you need to perform water changes to help the nitrogen cycle. I would start with 20-25% weekly water changes. Part of this has to do with oxygen reduction and that is the key for the nitrogen cycle to complete.

Amonia-nitrites-nitrates
When your amonia and nitrites are 0 you should be showing plenty of nitrates which are quickly lowered by water change.
The usual test is to dose amonia to 2ppm then wait 24hr.
If amonia and nitrites are 0 and you have nitrates then your cycle is complete

 

[Jakepen]

Just to add some notes on the cycle, I have lots of cyanobacteria on the rocks and sand right now.

Should I move this questions to another thread? This isn't my thread after all and I don't want to vandalize it.

I encourage people to "hi jack" my threads. The more topics and discussions at my fingertips, the better.

 

[cnseekatz]

Short answer (in my humble opinion) is to wait until green filamentous algae begins to grow. Then add a small cleanup crew (snails, hermits, etc.). Wait until green algae is gone, then you're good to start adding livestock. Be patient, it stinks staring at an empty tank, but it's worth it in the long run.

 

[JPSika08]

Refer to post number 3 in this thread.

Thank you, great information, out of the six stages mentioned, my system is at #5 atm.
Regarding the water changes, I have read that you do water changes on the system until Nitrates show up in order to lower them, but during nitrties stage the cycle slow down.

Amonia-nitrites-nitrates
When your amonia and nitrites are 0 you should be showing plenty of nitrates which are quickly lowered by water change.
The usual test is to dose amonia to 2ppm then wait 24hr.
If amonia and nitrites are 0 and you have nitrates then your cycle is complete

Thank you.

Short answer (in my humble opinion) is to wait until green filamentous algae begins to grow. Then add a small cleanup crew (snails, hermits, etc.). Wait until green algae is gone, then you're good to start adding livestock. Be patient, it stinks staring at an empty tank, but it's worth it in the long run.

Thank you. Stage #6 should come around soon, hopefully.

 

[JPSika08]

I encourage people to "hi jack" my threads. The more topics and discussions at my fingertips, the better.

Thank you, though, I started a thread under Reef Chemistry, link is here.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycle-problem-help.244179/