Which wrasse to keep?

[JHSteepat]

I have a 110 or so gallon display with plenty of rocks. Ordered, among others, one exquisite wrasse from Dr. Reef. I received two wrasses, one that looks like a male and is adult size (4” or so), and the other looks juvenile at around 2”). They are in a 29 g acclimation tank.

Large wrass freaks out and tries to jump every time I get near the tank. I havent seen it eat in two days and I tried a variety of foods.

Smaller one has a bump (white patch) on its nose from likely bumping something in transit. It looks like the white patch is getting smaller. The fish is always out, even keel and eats everything.

I’d love to keep both but even though they are getting along fine, I understand that I shouldn’t keep two wrasses of this species together in a 4 foot tank. My thoughts are to monitor the small one and put it in the display once its nose looks better, and send the larger to the LFS.

Any better ideas?

Has anyone had success keeping two exquisite wrasses in the same medium sized tank?

Is the jumper likely to eventually find a small hole in my screen?

 

[Uncle99]

it is my understanding that you can keep a pair, male and female. Two males is a no.

the tank volume should be starting at 90g, FO or reef as they don’t pick at corals, and have a shaded area.

But are jumps, will settle a bit, tight lid of course.

 

[JHSteepat]

I guess with one much larger than the other the dimorphism will keep?? I’ve been reading various threads that seem to say they will be OK but the juvenile will eventually turn male. I don’t know if that is wht usually happens vs. what can happen.

They are leaving each other alone right now in the small tank.

 

[Uncle99]

I guess with one much larger than the other the dimorphism will keep?? I’ve been reading various threads that seem to say they will be OK but the juvenile will eventually turn male. I don’t know if that is wht usually happens vs. what can happen.

They are leaving each other alone right now in the small tank.

Usually, the female would stay female in presence of the clear male, provided the female is in fact, a female.

I’d just see what happens.

 

[JHSteepat]

the tank volume should be starting at 90g, FO or reef as they don’t pick at corals, and have a shaded area.

Tank is roughly 48x24x21 inches, with a lot of unoccupied rock structure (midas blenny and royal gramma). Only other fish are a pair of clowns and a new springerii and tomini tang. They will have plenty of places to hide.

 

[Uncle99]

That sounds great.
Update us in a bit if you can.

 

[nereefpat]

Just FYI, it seems like that vendor is shipping 2 because wrasses are cruddy shippers

 

[JHSteepat]

I figured two were sent due to shipping issues.. Not complaining at all, but I just don’t want to be an accomplice to one murdering the other. If they likely will stay male and female get along and don’t become male/male, all is good.

Honetly the way the one is jumping, I expect it to find a hole in the lid and go surfing before the other grows up. He is a bit less jumpy today, so I am crossing my fingers. Waiting for the glue to fully cure on my display tank screen I built (24h more). Then they go to the display.

 

[JoJosReef]

My understanding with fairy wrasses is that they will almost always transition despite the presence of a male. Very large tanks that can form more of a harem social structure might work @OrionN would know. @Slocke might be able to confirm if fairies transition or not.

Keeping both might work in the short term. Not sure about long term.

 

[aaron186]

Dr Reef does this often and will ship extra fish. I have mixed feelings on it. On one hand they know wrasses/anthias and whatever else is often a poor shipper so it’s cheaper for them to ship extras just in case rather than needing to replace it. Often that works out well for the customer as they get freebies. He sent me 5 anthias instead of the 3 I ordered for that reason. I was instructed to keep 2 of them in the sump and make sure all of them make it. I could then donate or sell the extra 2 or keep them. But it also adds unnecessary work for the customer (returning fish to a LFS for credit) or encourage us to keep more fish than we should. I’m mixed on it but I still very much am happy sourcing all of my fish from Dr Reef

 

[JHSteepat]

Dr Reef does this often and will ship extra fish. I have mixed feelings on it. On one hand they know wrasses/anthias and whatever else is often a poor shipper so it’s cheaper for them to ship extras just in case rather than needing to replace it. Often that works out well for the customer as they get freebies. He sent me 5 anthias instead of the 3 I ordered for that reason. I was instructed to keep 2 of them in the sump and make sure all of them make it. I could then donate or sell the extra 2 or keep them. But it also adds unnecessary work for the customer (returning fish to a LFS for credit) or encourage us to keep more fish than we should. I’m mixed on it but I still very much am happy sourcing all of my fish from Dr Reef

While it is extra work, I have a good home for #2.

 

[Slocke]

Fairy wrasse tend to transition young and are not one of the better candidates for pairing. Not saying it can’t be done but it’s risky. I always suggest this article by the wrasse guy. See the section about mixing:

All About Reef Safe Wrasses in Aquaria

Introduction My name is Hunter and I am a wrasse addict. Admitting such is the first step to buying another wrasse, I think. Wrasses are not only my passion, but my niche in this hobby since 2010. My tank is full of them, and unfortunately...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[JHSteepat]

Fairy wrasse tend to transition young and are not one of the better candidates for pairing. Not saying it can’t be done but it’s risky. I always suggest this article by the wrasse guy. See the section about mixing:

All About Reef Safe Wrasses in Aquaria

Introduction My name is Hunter and I am a wrasse addict. Admitting such is the first step to buying another wrasse, I think. Wrasses are not only my passion, but my niche in this hobby since 2010. My tank is full of them, and unfortunately...

www.reef2reef.com

Yeah, I read this earlier and it is why I questioned what to do with the second. As much as I want to believ I’ll be the exception, I prefer to avoid the likely drama. I’m going to give the larger male to a friend who has a fowlr setup and a closed canopy. I’ll let the little guy grow up in my tank.

 

[Tcook]

I agree with @Slocke In the wild supermale aggression onto submales or transitioning males is dispersed across many females and other submales. That is not happening with 2 males in a 110 gallon. Besides, you’ll want to enjoy many different wrasse species as you can.

 

[JHSteepat]

Besides, you’ll want to enjoy many different wrasse species as you can.

Absolutely!!

 

[LobsterOfJustice]

FYI it’s common for female/juvenile fairy wrasses to have a white spot on the upper lip / “nose” area.

 

[JHSteepat]

I

FYI it’s common for female/juvenile fairy wrasses to have a white spot on the upper lip / “nose” area.

i read that in some thread, then someone said it was also likely due to rubbing. It isn’t really going away and the fish seems quite healthy as of last night. It looks like its skin, is symmetrical, and not a bump or anything.

 

[JHSteepat]

Problem solved. RIP little guy. The big one is now swimming around. I think the white on the head of the little one was damage. There was nothing else showing on the skin of the dead one. No bites, bumps, or spots. It was feeding but less active earlier today. I’ll watch the fish for a little before transferring to the larger display tank.

Tang discovered the nori clip so we are good there. Others appear to be eating.