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I posted paramateresZoas melting away is usually a water quality issue or something eating them. Just to get this out of the way, what does your water parameters looks like?
How long has the tank been running?I posted paramateres
I don’t have a phosphate test yet. I have 1 bengal cardinal 1 white damsel. 1 six line wrasse. 1 emerald crab. And 2 hermits. 1 cleaner shrimp. 1 brittle starfish. I feeds every other day. Should I start feeding daily the fish? I was using reef roids also. And amino acids. But they don’t like the aminos. They tend to shrivel. I could just be to paranoid. Lol. Tank has been set up for a yearHow long has the tank been running?
What livestock do you have?
Any crabs?
+1 on dirtier water, maybe feed more.
Do you test phosphates?
I suspect you have high phosphates, using the reef roids. Test for that.I don’t have a phosphate test yet. I have 1 bengal cardinal 1 white damsel. 1 six line wrasse. 1 emerald crab. And 2 hermits. 1 cleaner shrimp. 1 brittle starfish. I feeds every other day. Should I start feeding daily the fish? I was using reef roids also. And amino acids. But they don’t like the aminos. They tend to shrivel. I could just be to paranoid. Lol. Tank has been set up for a year
I do perform a water change on the tank every week. And I’m definitely going to start feeding more. And I bumped up the light 5%. Blues only for now. I’m running a marine land hang on back filter. And a canister filter I got from amazon. Could my water be to clean?I suspect you have high phosphates, using the reef roids. Test for that.
If phosphates are above 0.3, handle that.
Otherwise, Emeralds can bother zoas if they are hungry, so feed more.
I pulled the frags out and dipped them in coral rx. About 2 days ago. A lot of little critters came out. But I do have other colonies that are wide open but have darkened. Could that be a light issue not enough? And I have noticed lines in the disks of this colony. Is that normal?Just another thought... I can't really tell by the picture if any are present, but have you checked for hydroids? Mine started doing the same thing, and they were being stung by the branching variety.
Dustin
I want to eventually get the Hannah phosphate tester. But what brand do u recommend? I saw amazon had an api po3 po4 test kit for around $13. Will that work?Test your phosphate
I imagine so, we're not looking for exact numbers, just if its bad/too high.I want to eventually get the Hannah phosphate tester. But what brand do u recommend? I saw amazon had an api po3 po4 test kit for around $13. Will that work?
So I ended up buying the Hannah phosphate checker and tested the water. It reads 0.04Zoa's die in a predictable way depending on what's killing them.
- If it's environmental conditions (lights/water) a whole colony will usually react in unison, they will become more and more tiny and eventually just fade away. They can melt too, but IME they just shrink away to nothing.
- If it's disease they typically will die off in a "connect the dot" sort of way. And you can tell which will be next by following the tissue that connects them to each other. You'll see zoa melting and falling apart.
- If it's a predator they will die in a pattern(s) sweeping across the colony. You'll need to examine them during the night at random times - preferably with a red light.
If it's a predator or disease you're going to want to QT the colony as soon as possible. You really don't want those spreading. I just had an issue like you and tossed the rock with them. I didn't want to risk the whole garden for 1.
I retested and got different results. First test 0.04. Second test 0.09. Third test 0.08. I’m confused at this pointSo I ended up buying the Hannah phosphate checker and tested the water. It reads 0.04
Got the tester. Just more confused now. LolUntil you can get Hanna I would say Salifert would be the next best but that’s just me.
Salifert Phosphate Aquarium Test Kit
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