Goniopora success
- Thread starter alindell
- Start date
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I would say you get bigger Goni and Alve frags from POTO and even riptide with the exception of the grandmaster Goni and maybe the Cupid Goni they were all decent chunks.(photo below)
But the colors on the Zoanthids frags are not ones I’ve seen on the others websites. But even the grandmaster (it’s the top pink/yellow one) was bigger than zoanthids.
Then there is the one in this photo who won’t get happy. The last photo above - those two were happy within 20minutes of being put in the tank…..cranky uncooperative Goni below
MrGisonni
Valuable Member
FWIW my goniopora hate and I mean absolutely hate having nitrates below 10 ppm. They will retract on their skeleton and stay that way until I've dosed enough nitrate to get up beyond 10.
So I haven’t seen that …my gonis were happy when I was below 10 granted I try not to get that low as that’s too close to bottoming outFWIW my goniopora hate and I mean absolutely hate having nitrates below 10 ppm. They will retract on their skeleton and stay that way until I've dosed enough nitrate to get up beyond 10.
Goniopora are easier these days due to the proliferation of fragged specimens, I think. Wild caught ones were notoriously sensitive, for example, and certain species were theorized to be easier than others. Most of the ones in the hobby come from areas of high turbidity (i.e. crap in the water) but that's not necessarily the rule. They can also be found in isolated colonies in clear lagoons, in the reef proper, in low and higher flow situations. It seems like most of the ones we encounter in the hobby come from areas of higher than average turbidity, so a tank with a bit more dissolved organics/detritus is probably a safe bet. Mine seemed quite fine until I had an alk spike/crash and is hanging on for dear life. But they are a very diverse genus as far as location and in situ preferences. So the aquacultured ones are adaptable also. Anecdotally, they seem on the sensitive side to fluctuations vs other lps, but aren't more sensitive than say, an A. valida acro specimen these days. I think it's safe to say (something to eat + stability + enough flow for waste byproducts to go away) = do the "tentacly" thing and grow for them these days.
liddojunior
Well-Known Member
I would go that far. But I do love em. Right now under a combo of ReefBreeders and ReeFi uno 2. Ph 8.2 , Alk presently about 10 and Mag 1500+. My oldest is about 2.5 yrs thru 3 tanks
Is that the UC amazeballs ??
steveschuerger
I love Gonis and Euphyllia. Maybe too much
Yes. Got from TCK on doorbuster.
SomeHappyFish
Active Member
What do you guys think I can do about mine?
3' foot tank, gyre on left side on 50% pulse so medium flow and about 90-150 par.
I haven't touched it in about 2-3 weeks. I think its still acclimating.
3' foot tank, gyre on left side on 50% pulse so medium flow and about 90-150 par.
I haven't touched it in about 2-3 weeks. I think its still acclimating.
So flow shouldn’t be direct.What do you guys think I can do about mine?
3' foot tank, gyre on left side on 50% pulse so medium flow and about 90-150 par.
I haven't touched it in about 2-3 weeks. I think its still acclimating.
What are you other numbers at?
It’s coming out so either too much flow or par is to high I would think.
But it looks as though it lost all its tissue that’s on the skeleton.
You could try a dip in iodine/water mix (light tea color 5 minutes)
Here is a picture of 1 of mine that’s not adjusting it just straight up refuses. Can you spot the unhappy camper lolWhat do you guys think I can do about mine?
3' foot tank, gyre on left side on 50% pulse so medium flow and about 90-150 par.
I haven't touched it in about 2-3 weeks. I think its still acclimating.
SomeHappyFish
Active Member
78⁰F
35ppt
1400mg
4000cal
7.5 dkh
0 phosphate (trying to raise them)
Nitrate 7.5 ppm
When the polyps retract is there flesh still on the Skelton?
Do you have any other corals?
You could try dosing manganese to see if that will help it recover. I’ve heard stories people have saved them that way. I dose it daily.
What test kit do you use for phosphate?
SomeHappyFish
Active Member
I have a few corals, zoa, kenya, gorgonians
Looks like there is flesh I guess
Hannah test kit ULR
Unfortunately, from that picture, it doesn’t look like there’s any flesh left on the skeleton. Only the polyps remain. Like I said, you could try getting manganese ending to the tank to see if that helps. It may recover it may not. I can’t tell you why it didn’t make it Johnny’s can be sensitive. If you want, I can give you a link for a site sell 500 mL bottles for like 20 bucks plus shipping. It’s the stuff I use. Let me know.I have a few corals, zoa, kenya, gorgonians
Looks like there is flesh I guess
Hannah test kit ULR
SomeHappyFish
Active Member
Dayum that sucks.. I bought is this way wierd.
Then you bought an unhealthy coral
You can see the flesh between the polyps in these photos
SomeHappyFish
Active Member
This was the day I bought it (picture below)Then you bought an unhealthy coral
You can see the flesh between the polyps in these photos
I just noticed that it start opening a bit in the morning and at night, might be the par... I lowered it to a more shaded area (second picture)
This was the day I bought it (picture below)
I just noticed that it start opening a bit in the morning and at night, might be the par... I lowered it to a more shaded area (second picture)
The picture you original posted has way higher.
Which means it’s probably getting to much light
That second picture looks like skeleton is showing…and it looks like it has algae on the skeleton
Id put it back on the sand bed.
If your serious about wanting gonis I’d buy some managnese
Reef Moonshiner's Elements - Manganese 500ml
Reef Moonshiner's Manganese Element for enhanced coloration in a crazy Reeftank.
andremueller.e-junkie.com
Not sure the one you have will make it.
