3D Printing thread

[TheHarold]

whats a good petg filament brand new to waiting on ender 3 due day or two

Hatchbox is pretty reliable, $20 for KG, and different colors print the same.

Most filament on amazon is fine, just different brands need slightly different settings. Should be ~$16 per roll.

Certain companies give you free rolls if you post a 5 star review on amazon. Easy way to get a lot of filament; you can post a review on each color. Unethical? Absolutly. Worth it, to get 6kg? Probably

 

[Erica-Renee]

@siggy

That looks like your bed is not at the right distance. as others have said you also need to calibrate your extruder the other thing that is very important is to be sure there is no play in the ptfe tub couplings.. If there is fix this before you calibrate ... for pla i run bed temp at 60 deg , Glass that i cut myself from window pane and sanded with 120g paper in every direction creating random scratches. Clean it with alcohol and use light hair spray. (Depending on the hair spray strength) I usually use rave hair spray number 4.. It holds my hair better when its super moist out . Its not just for 3d printing... hehehe..


As far as the other debate i print petg with the stock ender hot end . 238 deg and 82 deg bed temp... I have had one clog in the months i have had the printer .. my printer runs prob 50 percent of the time. as i never use it when nobody is home...


Good Luck

 

[dantimdad]

@Erica-Renee I never let you know that I had fixed all the issues and was getting beautiful prints. Now, I have an issue updating firmware, but I think I found the solution and will check when I get home.

 

[siggy]

@siggy you also need to calibrate your extruder. Those lines higher up are under extrusion.

Just FYI.

I usually use rave hair spray number 4.. It holds my hair better when its super moist out . Its not just for 3d printing... hehehe..

NICE!
I thought about that last night. I installed a new nozzle and thought about distance to bed had to have changed.
This was printing after bed separation, benchy would rock back and forth on the bed so it was not getting the proper pressure on laying down material...I first have to get a job to stick then I will go from there..LOTS to learn.

 

[dantimdad]

Even before you get it to stick, calibrate. If it's not putting out enough filament, it can cause first layer issues as well.

 

[dantimdad]

Dang, I almost sound like I know what I am doing with this stuff.

 

[Erica-Renee]

Dang, I almost sound like I know what I am doing with this stuff.

everyone on the internet is a EXPERT .... You know this already.. HEHEheheeheheeheeeee

 

[dantimdad]

Well, you are only and expert if you berate others who have a differing opinion from yours and repeat yourself very loudly over them.

;Hilarious

 

[dantimdad]

@Vivid Creative Aquatics is this the hotend you are using?

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Ro...&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=all+metal+hotend&psc=1

The Micro Swiss has terrible reviews.

 

[GrizFyrFyter]

I don’t know what to tell you; I have a couple going 24/7 as well, PETG, and have never had a clog or damaged PETG tube.

It boils down to job settings. Printing high speed (for petg) at 0.32mm layers with high retraction resulted in consistent failures at the ptfe tube on every machine. Once switching to an all metal (true all metal, where there isn't ptfe in the heat break tube, which most v6 clones have) made a huge difference.

I switched after a conversation I had with VCA, he has been using ender 3 printers longer than I have.

I use e3d v6 hotends on all of the printers in the shop.

 

[dantimdad]

Thanks @GrizFyrFyter

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

@Vivid Creative Aquatics is this the hotend you are using?

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Ro...&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=all+metal+hotend&psc=1

The Micro Swiss has terrible reviews.

I have use that one - it not bad and works well. I prefer their prevision version of the heat sink though. it did not have that big quick-discontent at the top for the boden tube. The previous version was more like the actual V6 with the connector more flush with the heat sink.

if your printer does not have a fan for part cooling (some less expensive printers dont) you may need to 3D print new fan shroud though.

 

[TheHarold]

I have use that one - it not bad and works well. I prefer their prevision version of the heat sink though. it did not have that big quick-discontent at the top for the boden tube. The previous version was more like the actual V6 with the connector more flush with the heat sink.

if your printer does not have a fan for part cooling (some less expensive printers dont) you may need to 3D print new fan shroud though.

I have another E3 Pro coming today, I am going to set it up with the V6 hotend and see how it compares.

 

[ShadowR55]

Put together my first 3D printer the Prusa MK3S the past couple days, printed the whistle first and this is my second print. Looking pretty good but the stack on the top has a line running down it. Not sure what would cause that.

 

[scriptmonkey]

Man you guys have some nice prints! Tring to get mine dialed in and am hating life, I have a Makergear M3-ID. Think I am going to switch to either my Ngen or PETG I have and start from scratch and work up a profile. Been using their PLA and having crap results in my eyes. What slicer is everyone using? Been using S3D that came with it. Also what models are you using to get dialed in?

Tom

 

[JDowns]

Put together my first 3D printer the Prusa MK3S the past couple days, printed the whistle first and this is my second print. Looking pretty good but the stack on the top has a line running down it. Not sure what would cause that.

A perfect line running up your print is from a small blob at the end of the nozzle at the start of each new layer. This is typically caused by either not enough retraction speed or distance.

 

[dantimdad]

Yep. I vote not enough retraction.

 

[TheEngineer]

I'm going to finally check the calibration on a couple of the printers in my makerspace today. I've had it with the inconsistencies. There's one I typically use, so I'll probably just calibrate that one.

I'm planning to use this calibration print: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429

Is there a better one out there?

 

[dantimdad]

I'm going to finally check the calibration on a couple of the printers in my makerspace today. I've had it with the inconsistencies. There's one I typically use, so I'll probably just calibrate that one.

I'm planning to use this calibration print: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429

Is there a better one out there?

I just calibrate my extruder, print the XYZ cube and Bill Hellyabuck (phonetic spelling) bed level square and then tune by eye.

When I stopped trying to get it perfect from stuff like that one, my prints got so much better.

But, your mileage might vary.

 

[TheEngineer]

What process do you use for the extruder calibration? I'm not sure I can get into the EEPROM and even if I can they'd probably rather I not