3D Printing thread

TheEngineer

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This is a Scary monster,one of witch i have printed as well.. If you have not check to insure your ptfe tube is tight, and calibrate extruder is where you should begin..
This is a direct drive printer no tubing :) It is a shared machine so I need to get clearance to tweak the settings. I think they’ll let me, but we shall see...

I tweaked the retraction rate on another print right after and it seemed to have helped the stringing a bit. I’ll run the stringing test ext week and see how it goes. The bridging looked good, the fine details were awful.
 

scriptmonkey

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3mm / 2.85 is all I print with.

My stupidity is your gain! Just realized months ago I bought 2.85mm vs 1.75mm. Send me your address in PM if you are interested.
20190222_195729.jpg
 
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GrizFyrFyter

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I don’t see why that would be neccesary- could you explain? A new hotend seems like it would just require offsets/ pid tune. I’m not familiar with most of that stuff haha
Also, you're going to want to lower the PID Max down from 255 to under 190. The heat cartridge and block are a lot more efficient than stock, it heats up way to fast with stock settings. Even at 190, it's really difficult to get stable Temps with PID tuning.
 

madox

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PETG is the only way to fly when it comes to printing stuff for aquarium use, in my opinion.


PLA holds realy well also. Got skimmer made of PLA for more then 8months now and there is no degradation of material. You must warm it over 70degree to star composting process.

I had needlewheel mado of PLA also but it was too weak, so now is PETG to withstand crazy RPM (jebaoo DC2000 and jebao DCS 6000 [emoji23]) PLA needlles broke off because of snails [emoji17].

I can post pics if any1 interested.

All printed on Delta Trilab DeltiQ.
 

garbled

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I have an anycubic i3. Love it to death. I've probably printed 15 rolls through it, and only had to swap the hot end out and replace the bed cable. It's a workhorse.

I've been printing some parts in PETG lately, (I have a new design for a COR strainer, just got it working, will test and post to thingiverse in a day or so) but had some crazy issues with the print...

1) My Tianase PETG absorbed water and started going bad.. needs to sit in the dry box for awhile..
2) I *love* eSun PETG. Best stuff.
3) I had to turn the retraction and retraction speed way down on the PETG, because with lots of retractions, the extruder was grinding its way through the filament and would break it at the extruder and then just print nothing for the rest of the run.
 

dantimdad

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The Prusa is so good, it makes me feel like I am cheating. Just perfect prints every time, with a stunning finish. Silent. It emails me a photo of the print when it’s complete.

LRYYO3F.jpg

As Wayne said "It will be mine, Oh yes, one day, it will be mine."

:)
 

crusso1993

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The Prusa is so good, it makes me feel like I am cheating. Just perfect prints every time, with a stunning finish. Silent. It emails me a photo of the print when it’s complete.

LRYYO3F.jpg

Ooooh aaaaaaaah! Shweet!
 

Nubbs01

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Do you prefer PTEG for aquarium use over ABS?

If so could you give me a few reasons why? Currently all my aquarium stuff is ABS
 

MaccaPopEye

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PLA holds realy well also. Got skimmer made of PLA for more then 8months now and there is no degradation of material. You must warm it over 70degree to star composting process.

I had needlewheel mado of PLA also but it was too weak, so now is PETG to withstand crazy RPM (jebaoo DC2000 and jebao DCS 6000 [emoji23]) PLA needlles broke off because of snails [emoji17].

I can post pics if any1 interested.

All printed on Delta Trilab DeltiQ.

Would you be able to share the STL for the DCS 6000 needle wheel by any chance? I've been meaning to make one for ages so that I can get my old skimmer up and running again with a DCS 6000 but I have been flat out the last couple of months and haven't had a chance. It would save me a heap of time if there was already an STL out there :)
 

dantimdad

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ABS isn't food safe.

PETG is "safe for food contact"

I haven't printed ABS except at work and had to fight it to not warp.

My printer (soon to be printers) at home are open frame so I am not even going to attempt printing ABS.

Fumes are no Bueno.
 

MaccaPopEye

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Do you prefer PTEG for aquarium use over ABS?

If so could you give me a few reasons why? Currently all my aquarium stuff is ABS
The 2 main reasons that I know of are:
1) ABS lets off some not nice fumes when it prints
2) It's also a bit harder to print properly (usually needs a heated enclosure to stop it from warping)

Where as PETG doesn't give off any fumes and prints almost as easily as PLA.

For aquariums the only benefit I think ABS has over PETG is that you can solvent weld it or vapor smooth it, but neither of those are really essential.
 

GrizFyrFyter

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ABS isn't food safe.

PETG is "safe for food contact"

I haven't printed ABS except at work and had to fight it to not warp.

My printer (soon to be printers) at home are open frame so I am not even going to attempt printing ABS.

Fumes are no Bueno.
PET is safe for food contact. PETG is modified PET for printing, it isn't used for much else.

ABS is what most of your aquarium equipment is made from...

I use PETG simply because I only have one printer in an enclosure and I have too much work for just one machine.
 

dantimdad

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Yeah, I realized after I posted that ABS is what most standard Bulkhead fittings are made of.

I will stick with PETG though. Easier to print with if you ask me and no fumes.
 

dantimdad

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Absolutely. In the past few years I suffered through Anet A8 to FLSUN, then (via selling printed objects) to Ender 3s, and finally this. I am hoping it will stop here, lol.

Yeah, sure, it'll stop there. "I just need this one more printer upgrade. I can quit at any time" ;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious
 

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