Best Parameters for Coralline

[CHSUB]

Here are the parameters that we typically recommend and pulled this list from our blog on coralline

• Nitrates <1.0 ppm.
• Phosphates <0.05 ppm
• pH values of 8.2-8.3.
• Alkalinity ~10 dKH.
• Calcium 415-425 ppm.
• Magnesium ~1,250 ppm.
• Potassium ~400 ppm.
• Total iodine ~0.06 ppm

I think these are excellent numbers for any reef aquarium. Personally, I keep Alk at ~8 and no3 undetectable with hobby testing resolution. My actual no3 is ~ .1 ppm with lab testing resolution.

 

[skey44]

Why do issues seem to arise when phosphates or nitrates read zero if this is true? It’s very widely distributed knowledge from commercial, hobby, and LFS level (admittedly unsure of scientific research on this) that opportunistic organisms such as dinoflagellates proliferate when a tank has undetectable (Hanna checkers) nitrates or phosphates.
I do get your point regarding our tanks being much higher nutrients than ocean levels. I’m trying to understand issues I’ve had in the past when my levels were “too low” per most information I have found. The readily available information suggests it was due to nitrates and or phosphates being undetectable or “bottomed out.” With your explanation it would mean there is another factor causing this besides the nutrient numbers and I would like to better understand this. Not trying to derail the thread. Just trying to further the discussion to understand my tank better.

 

[GARRIGA]

Why do issues seem to arise when phosphates or nitrates read zero if this is true? It’s very widely distributed knowledge from commercial, hobby, and LFS level (admittedly unsure of scientific research on this) that opportunistic organisms such as dinoflagellates proliferate when a tank has undetectable (Hanna checkers) nitrates or phosphates.

No clue what causes dinos but had a severe case where I increased the lighting by doubling the wattage as an experiment. Nothing else changed. Tank was stabilized to the point I stopped dosing carbon and had GHA at bay with just the turf algae which CUC kept trimmed. Stopped testing but highly doubt my nutrients were bottomed out which implies there's more to dinos than low nutrients.

Solution was overdosing carbon, adding silicates, adding macroalgae, adding MB7, adding iron via ChaetoGro and peroxide plus blackout. Also did a thorough cleaning including replacing the rocks. Can't confirm what solved it but it never returned.

Cutting back lighting to prior levels didn't solve it. Also had cyano which in the past would show in low flow areas but this time around was out of control. Lost my margaritas, astraea and hermits. Nassarius and damsels unaffected.

 

[CHSUB]

Why do issues seem to arise when phosphates or nitrates read zero if this is true? It’s very widely distributed knowledge from commercial, hobby, and LFS level (admittedly unsure of scientific research on this) that opportunistic organisms such as dinoflagellates proliferate when a tank has undetectable (Hanna checkers) nitrates or phosphates.
I do get your point regarding our tanks being much higher nutrients than ocean levels. I’m trying to understand issues I’ve had in the past when my levels were “too low” per most information I have found. The readily available information suggests it was due to nitrates and or phosphates being undetectable or “bottomed out.” With your explanation it would mean there is another factor causing this besides the nutrient numbers and I would like to better understand this. Not trying to derail the thread. Just trying to further the discussion to understand my tank better.

The only issue I have had with low po4 was pale, STN Acros many years ago and was seemingly corrected with dosing po4. I have never seen undetectable no3 being a problem despite having a majority of my reef tanks with undetectable no3. I don’t believe testing the final product of the nitrogen cycle could be used to determine if low levels of nitrogen are the cause of any problems. When I test for no3 it is only to confirm an over abundance of nitrogen and if I need to make a correction to lower input or better increase export. Imo, there is an overwhelming amount of misinformation regarding nutrients in the hobby from “hobby observations”; example, “i raised no3 and dinoflagellate when away.”

 

[skey44]

Ok fair. I had undetectable nitrates for a couple of weeks and then had a dinoflagellate issue. I have always maintained pretty consistent phosphate levels. To be fair my tank was also young and likely there were other factors at play.
Just in my observation I had an issue with undetectable nitrogenous biproducts and then Dinos. This lined up with explanations found all over the place so I just accepted it as a fact.

 

[Anxur]

Ma quali studi esatti sono stati condotti sulla corallina? Non si può ignorare Richard Ross, neanche. Il suo vero acquario si discosta spesso da questi studi. Inoltre, la maggior parte di questi studi non riguarda l'acidificazione o sono specifici per po4 e altri nutrienti come i nitrati? Ho visto altri avere successo con livelli di nitrati ben oltre quanto indicato. WWC li esegue a 20-25 ppm. Ben al di sopra di quanto qui indicato per la corallina.

Lasciatemi chiedere di nuovo. Quale scienza specifica abbiamo per confermare che la corallina richieda questi bassi livelli come citato?

Maybe experiences

 

[GARRIGA]

Maybe experiences

What language is that? My quote got converted.

 

[Anxur]

What language is that? My quote got converted.

Sorry..

I said..

"maybe experience"

 

[GARRIGA]

Sorry..

I said..

"maybe experience"

Not what you said got converted. My quote got converted. Weird.