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Awesome! Yes I would love to see how it performs on a 40 breeder! Even though other lights have a big spread, it also means light leak if its meant for a cube vs the standard tanks. You could probably 3 print a stand? Or someone here could... maybe even myself if you are okay with PLA.So, for better or for worse I got the 36”-48”. If it was a horrible mistake I can always return it and get the smaller one. I’ll likely need to mount or prop up the light in some other way, because I’m sure the mounting legs will extend past my tank. I plan on upgrading to a 40 breeder eventually, so I just couldn’t pass up on it.
I was considering the Noopsyche k7 pro III as well, but 30” of spread is kind of the maximum it can do, and it definitely would be even worse on a 40 breeder. Basically just everything that you all have already said about why you are interested in this light. It definitely was getting to me though that the Glowrium “only” is rated at 72W but the noops are rated at 140W. But if I just wanted higher wattage I guess I’d buy a black box.
On the app going away and us being stranded front, I think that’s unlikely since Glowrium makes a lot of lights and runs them through the same app. On the freshwater side, it also seems like there’s a decent number of YouTube videos on their lights.
Very nice observation and input! What is the space between each module? I would like to get an idea how they space them for the 36" one. I think you are right regarding more power, though now sure how that is achieved internally. I was mentioning to their support, there should be a lunar mode with these, that would be awesome. Based on my research, the coral that grow along the equator dont really get seasons and they get 12/12 days consistently. Adding a single LED between each of the modules and allowing these to be controlled on a lunar schedule would be amazing to replicate the cycle. I also tuned my schedule to reflect how the sun comes up and down throughout the day. My corals seems to be doing well and my algae might even be going down by reducing the amount of maximum intensity.Light came in, and the 36” to 48” fits pretty decent on my tank. There is about a 3” gap from the led module(s) to their respective end of the light, so 6” in total light dead zone on the ends.On my 30” tank then, all of the LEDs just barely fit within the rim of the tank. Right now it’s just sitting on the rim of my tank (not directly on the glass, since the rim sits higher than the glass top and the light extends past my tank by maybe 2.5” on each side). Even with that, it fills my whole tank for sure. I probably will try to mount it differently just to get better light cooling.
Another thing I learned is, according to the instructions, the 30-36” and 36-48” have the same number of LEDs. Also, mine has 3 modules, just like the 30-36”. I guess my unit has a higher wattage just because the LEDs are run at a higher wattage? The two smallest light sizes also share the same number of LEDs, if I recall correctly. But, the wattages are different for every length. Interesting.
I’m running the same-ish settings as you @enlighten. The corals look amazing under the light! Some are a little closed, but try to ignore thatThey still have a lot of coloring up to do since I’m taking better care of the tank than I have in years past. I am really impressed. The difference between my old Nicrew bar light and this is very large (photo below).That had 3 fewer LED colors/wavelengths as well, which makes sense. Something with this light is making the corals pop a lot more. I looked at the corals with the UV LEDs on and off, and they didn’t seem to make a visible difference, so it must be something else.
Just need to make sure not to burn my corals. They’ve been under terribly dim light so long that I hope I don’t shock them. Sorry about some terrible photos, just trying to quickly post before bed!
I can check the space between the modules when I get home. Here is the data sheet from the instructions that tipped me off to the fact that the number of LEDs are the same, though. I pretty much matched your programming schedule, but I halved the intensity for each channel since my corals are not used to such bright light. I know it isn’t ideal, but I used a LUX meter to check the LUX between my old light and new light at the same depth. The new light was 2x the LUX at your settings, so that’s why I started with halving the intensityVery nice observation and input! What is the space between each module? I would like to get an idea how they space them for the 36" one. I think you are right regarding more power, though now sure how that is achieved internally. I was mentioning to their support, there should be a lunar mode with these, that would be awesome. Based on my research, the coral that grow along the equator dont really get seasons and they get 12/12 days consistently. Adding a single LED between each of the modules and allowing these to be controlled on a lunar schedule would be amazing to replicate the cycle. I also tuned my schedule to reflect how the sun comes up and down throughout the day. My corals seems to be doing well and my algae might even be going down by reducing the amount of maximum intensity.
There is about 2.5 inches between each module, and the end of the 1st module to the end of the last module is about 29 inches. Each module is about 8 inches long.Very nice observation and input! What is the space between each module? I would like to get an idea how they space them for the 36" one. I think you are right regarding more power, though now sure how that is achieved internally. I was mentioning to their support, there should be a lunar mode with these, that would be awesome. Based on my research, the coral that grow along the equator dont really get seasons and they get 12/12 days consistently. Adding a single LED between each of the modules and allowing these to be controlled on a lunar schedule would be amazing to replicate the cycle. I also tuned my schedule to reflect how the sun comes up and down throughout the day. My corals seems to be doing well and my algae might even be going down by reducing the amount of maximum intensity.
Perhaps a bit too much light? You think its bleaching? I turned down the light in my 20L frag tank to get the lower par. My mushrooms looking decent so far! I also adjusted my schedule to 12 hour days, with only a 3 hour peak to simulate sun crossing the sky. I am working on a diy moonlight project next to turn my arduino into a new light. I plan to run it in the opposite 12 hours and mimic lunar cycle.As an update, my Ricordea yuma have started to pale a bit on their outer edges. The middle isn’t as pale for some reason. I moved them to the side of the tank and turned my UV down to 25%. The rest of my lighting is half the intensity of @enlighten. I still love the light! Just pay attention and watch your corals. Nothing else seems to be changing at all so far. Any thoughts on if I should be concerned on the pale edges/bleaching? (See photo). The Ricordea florida on the same rock (not shown) are doing fine!
A big positive as that the same rics also seem to be turning less orange and more red. I bought them like solid red, so this is a good change! They’ve been orange for years.
still waiting for your friend to give you the go to post bout thisBased on that, I'd probably do 60/100/100/60/100/80. Without seeing the light and tank in person, it's hard for me to judge how "white" that would be, but based on your settings it looks like you don't mind that much.
The basic schedules I currently run on my tanks now would look like below on this light...
8:30am - 0/0/0/0/0/0
11:00am - 0/100/100/0/100/80
1:30pm - 60/100/100/60/100/80
5:30pm - 60/100/100/60/100/80
8:00pm - 0/100/100/0/100/80
10:30pm - 0/0/0/0/0/0
My friend has done a full analysis of the light, but I won't post anything until he gives me the go-ahead. Suffice it to say he actually likes it. A lot. It'd be a great fill light as a supplement, but it also is good as a primary if you can meet your PAR needs with it (or add more of them until you can).
I'm thinking about getting one to run on my 30g anemone tank to replace my Primes. It'd keep more light in the tank and less in the room. Just not sure how the mount would work with a screen top. It'd be fun to play with the "zones" on the longer strips too. I bet you could really get the PAR evened out from end to end.
still waiting for your friend to give you the go to post bout this?Based on that, I'd probably do 60/100/100/60/100/80. Without seeing the light and tank in person, it's hard for me to judge how "white" that would be, but based on your settings it looks like you don't mind that much.
The basic schedules I currently run on my tanks now would look like below on this light...
8:30am - 0/0/0/0/0/0
11:00am - 0/100/100/0/100/80
1:30pm - 60/100/100/60/100/80
5:30pm - 60/100/100/60/100/80
8:00pm - 0/100/100/0/100/80
10:30pm - 0/0/0/0/0/0
My friend has done a full analysis of the light, but I won't post anything until he gives me the go-ahead. Suffice it to say he actually likes it. A lot. It'd be a great fill light as a supplement, but it also is good as a primary if you can meet your PAR needs with it (or add more of them until you can).
I'm thinking about getting one to run on my 30g anemone tank to replace my Primes. It'd keep more light in the tank and less in the room. Just not sure how the mount would work with a screen top. It'd be fun to play with the "zones" on the longer strips too. I bet you could really get the PAR evened out from end to end.