It shows your cabinet can at least hold ~29 more gallons of dt water
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I know people are going to disagree with me, but I support your choice.I’m going back to the old system I had. This one is not good. I still hear water flowing and gurgling when I close the return pumps. I lifted the loc like completely out of the water and I still heard water passing through the PVC.
Since I’m touching the overflow system, I’m risking breaking the seal which was just by using teflon and pressed in. If the seal breaks then the entire overflow will go into the sump which will for sure flood.
I will just replace the check valves. My sump CANNOT hold the extra water.
I will rely on check valves. I will not make anymore changes.
I wouldn't put too much stress on yourself.I just feel like a complete failure. I had a new company custom make this tank because my old tank (that my grandfather built for himself when he owned my current house) was built horribly.
It just seems like I was destined for plumbing failures. I enjoy reefing for the care of animals. In all honesty, I despise the part of equipments and plumbing. I could never get it right. I am not very handy.
If I ever get another tank, I am not getting it custom made. I’ll pay the premium for an experienced manufacturer.
I regret regret regret.
They're not all bad. My tank has a check valve (to stop the UV flowing back when the return pump is off).
Loc line leaks but yes you could do that and be ok for a couple hours of power outage.(assuming you have a way for air to enter the loc line (a small hole at the bottom or side of the peak of your bend that is right of the brink of being exposed to air as soon as the pumps cut off)@a.t.t.r
Can’t I just pull the loc line out of the water?
The drawing on the right is what you are proposing. Is there a difference if I just add loc line and replicate the drawing on the left?
It would be MUCH easier to do the idea on the left side. I just came up with this now.
I would add a hole to the underside of the loop in my drawing
Would this not work? I apologize if you already answered this question. I wasn’t aware if you did.
The pipe will empty but as long as you have a hole (and the pipe is sealed at the bottom bulkhead…) your draining should rapidly stop. If you must use silicone to seal the pipe to the bulk head it is good enough of a seal and is not permanent on plastic. Can you shut off all other outlets and take a video of what happens when just that one is draining? Did you drill a hole somewhere at or above the water line? (1/8 inch is more then enough)I’m going back to the old system I had. This one is not good. I still hear water flowing and gurgling when I close the return pumps. I lifted the loc like completely out of the water and I still heard water passing through the PVC.
Since I’m touching the overflow system, I’m risking breaking the seal which was just by using teflon and pressed in. If the seal breaks then the entire overflow will go into the sump which will for sure flood.
I will just replace the check valves. My sump CANNOT hold the extra water.
I will rely on check valves. I will not make anymore changes.
I have no problems paying extra for someone to help me. Money isn’t the issue. The issue is finding someone who can do it.you are so close to having things right. Also you can get that pvc to be lower then the tank lip with a slightly different orientation or using a vinyl line (which you may prefer to pvc anyways). I have done hundreds of tanks including retail and aquaculture systems if you want to dm me I’m sure we can figure out a design that works for you that doesn’t have you relying on a check valve ( hey it closed this time. But will it close tomorrow? Who knows )
Are you a member of fmas?I have no problems paying extra for someone to help me. Money isn’t the issue. The issue is finding someone who can do it.
Why do you think I paid for that custom aquarium company to build my tank? …they were the only ones who said yes.
I had a big 300 gallon that I needed to remove and replace with a new one. Nobody wanted to do that job.
That’s why I got stuck with a terrible job. Partly because I didn’t have a lot of space in my sump, but also because those guys didn’t listen to me when I said I didn’t want to rely on check valves. That’s the only way they did it and they said all their tanks relied on them.
Nobody likes repairing tanks around me, and I’m good for nothing at this.
Don't be so harsh on yourself. Save us some space to beat you up in.I just feel like a complete failure. I had a new company custom make this tank because my old tank (that my grandfather built for himself when he owned my current house) was built horribly.
It just seems like I was destined for plumbing failures. I enjoy reefing for the care of animals. In all honesty, I despise the part of equipments and plumbing. I could never get it right. I am not very handy.
If I ever get another tank, I am not getting it custom made. I’ll pay the premium for an experienced manufacturer.
I regret regret regret.
Now you're talkin'I think if I remove the entire pump #2 and only rely on the first pump, my sump can fit the extra water.
I can remove the UV (which I don’t even use) and I can close off the entire line with the ball valve.
Does that sound like a good idea?
Should I do it now? I don’t know what I should do.Now you're talkin'
I can't see a pump displacing much more than half a gallon of water. How much ended up on floor? How close are you, now, since adjusting returns?I think if I remove the entire pump #2 and only rely on the first pump, my sump can fit the extra water.
I can remove the UV (which I don’t even use) and I can close off the entire line with the ball valve.
Does that sound like a good idea?
I have 2 pumps. The one with the UV has a massive 80 watt sterilizer and a few feet of 3/4” pipe filled with water.I can't see a pump displacing much more than half a gallon of water. How much ended up on floor? How close are you, now, since adjusting returns?