Isn’t TOC fish corals and all the little stuff?
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Many thanks for the answer Handy!!!!I am highly skeptical that high TOC in general is killing your corals.
what level did they detect?
Well then next in line is your rocks. Are they actually old live rock? Or mined rock?Hello Cory,
many thanks for your help.
I also suspected of that. I emailed Weber and talk to an engineer of that area and the answers are not convincence for me.
So, a few years ago I take off that cement and today the reef is running with aragonite substrate.
Daniel
Just to put things in perspective, a 1 mL / gallon dose of vinegar is about 5 ppm. In my system this can cause cloudy water, but oxygen level 6-7 ppm does not suffer. Your carbon level is 2.5 times higher. This level is one the highest I came across in my small database (picture below). You should discuss your issue with @Lasse a d @Sallstrom .The last N-doc Triton tests:
TIC 29.75 - pretty good
TOC 12.33 (0-4 setpoint) - bad
TC 42.09 - good
TNb 4.24 - bad
Following Triton, that high level of TOC increases the NO3 levels, in my case 18.74.
These alterations generate bacterial blooms causing a lack of oxygen according Triton.
So, I am still trying to find the carbon source.
Hello Cory,Well then next in line is your rocks. Are they actually old live rock? Or mined rock?
Hello Dan_P,Just to put things in perspective, a 1 mL / gallon dose of vinegar is about 5 ppm. In my system this can cause cloudy water, but oxygen level 6-7 ppm does not suffer. Your carbon level is 2.5 times higher. This level is one the highest I came across in my small database (picture below). You should discuss your issue with @Lasse a d @Sallstrom .
1) What is oxygen level in your system?
2) Is the water constantly cloudy? Are surfaces covered with white slime?
3) What is the nature of the organic material? Have you determined the biological oxygen demand of your water? Is it high? Not many people use this method, but the few that do find the BOD5 to be <1 ppm (@Dana Riddle, @taricha). If your organic matter is bacteria food, the BOD5 could be substantial.
The nature of the organic matter is important. If it digestible, bacteria will use it and cloud the system, possibly it can encourage bacteria growrth detrimental to coral. Or the organic matter is not very digestible, is not readily removed by bacteria or skimming (do you run granular activated carbon?) and its level never changes. And it is toxic to invertebrates. Some type of contamination that continues to leach from equipment although it is not clear to me whether your system was initially contaminated and the pollutant was never removed or it us continually contaminated.
Have you attempted to purify a sample of the water by recirculating it through a column of GAC, GFO, or aragonite?
Garf,Isn’t TOC fish corals and all the little stuff?
Hello Cory,Can you post the icp results? Im curious of your salinity because all fish staying alive but corals dying says salinity to me.
I´ll think that @Dan_P have some very interesting questions. Depending on your answers - this can indicate if the excess TOC is caused by biological "fast working organic carbon sources" or more hard-to-decompose chemical organic carbon sources. If you are able both to take a BOD5 and a COD measurement - it could be to some help.
What I have read (and understand) there is some indications that your problem consist of hard-to-decompose organic carbon sources. This type of organic carbon sources include mineral oils, certain pesticides, essential oils (common in scented candles), humic acids and lot of other hydrocarbon products.
Do you use GAC (active carbon) - it should be able to take away some of these products, so could ozone and hydrogen peroxide too. Have you test either to filtrate over CAC ( a small amount that circulate over a GAC filter for a day or two) or treat a sample heavily with ozone and after that test it for TOC at Triton
You have part of your system outside - It looks like you live near the sea - not in a City center.
In the thread you mention - I saw a picture that can be a longshoot
The part in the red circle indicate that this is pipes for waste or drain water (it looks like they have a rubber fitting). There was a rumor here in Sweden that this type of PVC or PP pipes could have been treated with anti fouling agents. It looks like your pipes are PVC because I can see glued joints too. (you can´t glue PP) The ones here in Sweden was orange and PP. I do not think it is this way in your system because it should have killed fish too - but I think it worth to be mentioned
My 9 TOC test is between 5.9 to 8.5 mg/L. I have been up to nearly 4 mg/L of TNb - normally around 2. Have you done good NO3 tests - and if - are most of your TNb mostly NO3?
Finally a rather odd question - how is the growth of algae on your windows? Good. normal or badly. If badly - can you aim a light source at the inside of the glass (at a certain point) and see if you get som algae growth during a week or two at that point.
Sincerely Lasse
3 - I do not understand that question about the natura of the organic material. How can I determine the biological demand of the oxygen of my reef? I will read about BOD5.
Many thanks Sallstrom,I’ve had a quick look through our N-DOC results from work (public aquarium) too see if I can see any relationships between high TOC and any other result.
I haven’t found any apparent connections yet.
We have had two systems with high TOC, around 8,5. Both cold water systems with rather high nutrient levels. And probably with some remains of died off kelp/macro algae in the systems. Also lots of food added, like shrimps, clams and live phytoplankton and artemia. “Heavier” food then in our tropical tanks.
Just some info, not sure if it could help.
Also, have you only done one N-DOC test? If so you perhaps could do one more to see if the first one was correct.
I think if you get in touch with Triton and ask them to test the second vial you already sent as well, that could also be possible. Just to be able to trust the result before starting to change things.
Good luck!
Perfect Lasse,Every environmental lab can do both BOD5 (or BOD7 in some countries) and COD tests. They normal also know the normal ratio between them. The BOD5 (7) give you a hint of how much your "easy to handle organic carbon" you have and the COD minus BOD5(7) give you a hint how much "hard to decompose organic" carbons you have. You can´t direct translate this to the figures from Triton - Triton show mg/L of organic carbon and BOD/COD show mg/L oxygen consumed in order to oxidize the organic carbon into inorganic - but you will have the ratio and a hint what you should try to found)
If your BOD5(7) is low - most of the TOC from Triton must be from sources that is difficult to decompose and potential toxic substances as @taricha indicate
If you treat some litre of aquarium water with re-circulation over GAC for some days (or heavily dosing Ozone) and after that send in a NDOC test you may get an idea of the type of organic carbon in the Triton test
IME the tiny green algae that grow on the windows is among the most sensitive organisms I know. If it not is difficult - make the experiment
Sincerely Lasse
Many thanks Taricha,The BOD5 test is simple if you have an oxygen meter, which you indicate you do. Fill a volume of a clean container with tank water (well aerated - measure O2) and seal it air-tight with no bubbles inside. Let it sit sealed in the dark at room temp (~20 C) for 5 days. Then measure O2 again.
The BOD5 of aquarium water should be small - less than 1 or 2 mg/L O2 decrease out of max ~7mg/L. If your TOC number is as high as triton reports, you might fully deplete nearly all available O2 in the water over 5 days.
If it were me, and this were the case - high BOD5 - I would test the tank water for BOD5 filtered through a <1 micron filter (0.2 micron would be ideal). And compare to the BOD5 for unfiltered.
This would tell me if my high organic carbon were mostly Particulate or Dissolved.
If particulate, I would increase skimming, mechanical filtration etc.
If dissolved, I would increase the use of GAC.
Hello AquaBiomics,The discussion about refractory DOC versus labile DOC is valuable, and I don't mean to distract from it by bringing up other issues. I'm still stuck on the question of "where is it coming from in the first place"?
How does TOC in your system behave following water changes, especially larger water changes? How quickly does it come back up? (I think water changes are not a frequent thing in the "Triton system", but am not sure... )
I'm not trying to get you to start doing lots of water changes, just trying to diagnose.