In wall build advice

[bkwonnn]

Hi guys, about to perform a in wall build. It’s a 150 gallon peninsula build in between 2 walls.
So far the floor is reinforced so weight is no issue, and there is air suction to remove (some of) the moisture.

I was wondering what other things I can or should do, or take in consideration. I have allready a water connection and sewer connection to drain away water. Also utp internet kabels and loads of power supply.

I’m a little worried about unforeseen issues and mold etc. Or condensation maybe? Hope someone here has some
Advice. Anything will help! Thank y’all

 

[ca1ore]

You definitely want some kind of thermostat-controlled fan. Look up AC Infinity on amazon (link wont work).
Otherwise, just make sure you design in plenty of access.

 

[bkwonnn]

Lets go!

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Lets go!

Following! I always love watching in wall tanks be built

 

[Rappa]

Lets go!

Just a suggestion... While you have that wall still open and under construction, you may want to make a change and add a proper "header" above the tank framing. Like you would if you were framing in a window... I would feel better with a real header knowing that it will not bow down over the years. Just a suggestion... Good luck!

 

[Dierks]

Following as well, I too am going to be building an inwall. Good Luck!

 

[javajaws]

Yeah if that wall is load bearing (looks like it might be) you want to put a header in there.

Just because its in-wall doesn't mean you have to close the top in on both sides either. In mine, I opted for doors on one side while I left the other side open (above the tank). Really helps with venting the lights and keeping moisture down. In my sump area I have a couple of 4" vents to let air escape up above the aquarium.

 

[Rappa]

Yeah if that wall is load bearing (looks like it might be) you want to put a header in there.

Just because its in-wall doesn't mean you have to close the top in on both sides either. In mine, I opted for doors on one side while I left the other side open (above the tank). Really helps with venting the lights and keeping moisture down. In my sump area I have a couple of 4" vents to let air escape up above the aquarium.

I think it's bowing slightly already. Even if the wall is not load bearing, the weight of the wall above is in a constant state of pushing down on that 2x4 on the flat side opening. 2x4's aren't strong on the flat side. I think it will no doubt start to sag at some point. Add moisture and it's even more likely. When you finish, your trim will move and start to separate in the corners, and you will end up having to gut the wall and redo it, only now with a reef tank underneath it. After more thought, I would absolutely do a header.

 

[xabo]

Stand height.......you will want to be able to reach the bottom of the tank.

 

[monfilsi]

I have an in-wall peninsula setup as well.

Have you planned in auto-water change and RODI? Adding my RODI lines, plumbing and the sensors to the waterchange pumps running through the ceiling to the garage was something I planned in right from the beginning. I'm very glad I did! Sounds like you'll have a drain and water right at the tank, so it will be simpler in your case.

Another thing that I find important is having access to my overflow (bean animal in my setup) for cleaning, maintenance.

Its been running for 2 and half years and I haven't had any mold issues. I have a cover over the sump to reduce evaporation in the sump area, but above the tank is well ventilated.

 

[Jekyl]

Hi guys, about to perform a in wall build. It’s a 150 gallon peninsula build in between 2 walls.
So far the floor is reinforced so weight is no issue, and there is air suction to remove (some of) the moisture.

I was wondering what other things I can or should do, or take in consideration. I have allready a water connection and sewer connection to drain away water. Also utp internet kabels and loads of power supply.

I’m a little worried about unforeseen issues and mold etc. Or condensation maybe? Hope someone here has some
Advice. Anything will help! Thank y’all

My in wall 90g (in closet of adjoining room) is 6 years old without mold issues. Best to have a seperate breaker for the tank as well as gfci protection for everything.

 

[Rappa]

Definitely ventilation above. My ceiling fan inside my overhead cabinet is controlled by the Apex. If the temp goes above 78, the fan comes on. That runs pretty much all summer. Also helps keep the water temp down, and helps keeps PH up (I think).

 

[TX_REEF]

I think I remember you posting a similar thread last year, glad you're finally going ahead with this!

Can you add an additional ceiling vent fan inside the walls above the tank and have it share the exhaust vent with the bathroom fan?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Just a suggestion... While you have that wall still open and under construction, you may want to make a change and add a proper "header" above the tank framing. Like you would if you were framing in a window... I would feel better with a real header knowing that it will not bow down over the years. Just a suggestion... Good luck!

It is shear wall skinned with wood panel, it can't sag over time (assuming the wood skin is attached well).

I would hope that the sheathing is exterior though. The area above the tank will (without question) be exposed to a lot of moisture over time.

I though I could protect the framing above my in-wall with wet location sheetrock.... it lasted a few years but eventually needed to be replaced.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I think it's bowing slightly already. Even if the wall is not load bearing, the weight of the wall above is in a constant state of pushing down on that 2x4 on the flat side opening. 2x4's aren't strong on the flat side. I think it will no doubt start to sag at some point. Add moisture and it's even more likely. When you finish, your trim will move and start to separate in the corners, and you will end up having to gut the wall and redo it, only now with a reef tank underneath it. After more thought, I would absolutely do a header.

Noted above - with the hard skin (not drywall) the wall behaves as a shear wall system. The outer skin connects the members and form a ridged system that will not sag.

Sheet rock does not do a good job at this (unless it is glued in place instead of screwed) but even then may simply stress fracture over time depending on the weight of the members and their span.

If we want to be pedantic, the shear wall's strength is resistance of movement in the lateral plane, but in a span like this it also serves to prevent the sagging.

In any case, the IRC and most local codes don't require ANY header in non-load bearing walls unless the opening is over 8'. They really serve no purpose. A flat (as in the OPs photo) 2x is allowed. See below, even in the case of an exterior wall (note that it is NOT load bearing being the gable end and one stud in from the where the rafter/truss lands (the bearing wall). Also note that the wall below it is bearing as it caries the weight of the floor above it.

 

[Rappa]

Noted above - with the hard skin (not drywall) the wall behaves as a shear wall system. The outer skin connects the members and form a ridged system that will not sag.

Sheet rock does not do a good job at this (unless it is glued in place instead of screwed) but even then may simply stress fracture over time depending on the weight of the members and their span.

If we want to be pedantic, the shear wall's strength is resistance of movement in the lateral plane, but in a span like this it also serves to prevent the sagging.

Looked possibly load bearing to me based on the red circle in this pic... Either way I would build it with a 2x4 header just for the level (flat) factor of the opening. I tend to overbuild things admittedly...

 

[BeanAnimal]

Looked possibly load bearing to me based on the red circle in this pic... Either way I would build it with a 2x4 header just for the level (flat) factor of the opening. I tend to overbuild things admittedly...

I saw that but it did not look to be in the same plane and appears not only to be parallel to the joists above, but running past them... I would certainly hope that the OP did not just hack out a load bearing structure without adding both temporary support and a plan to carry that load appropriately.

 

[Rappa]

I saw that but it did not look to be in the same plane... I would certainly hope that the OP did not just hack out a load bearing structure without adding both temporary support and a plan to carry that load appropriately.

You never know! I've seen worse lol. I hope not as well...

 

[bkwonnn]

Yes I have a water source where I will Connect the rodi filters on and also a drain on the bottom
Right that Goes to the sewer. I will configure auto water changes. Can you show pictures of yours?

I have an in-wall peninsula setup as well.

Have you planned in auto-water change and RODI? Adding my RODI lines, plumbing and the sensors to the waterchange pumps running through the ceiling to the garage was something I planned in right from the beginning. I'm very glad I did! Sounds like you'll have a drain and water right at the tank, so it will be simpler in your case.

Another thing that I find important is having access to my overflow (bean animal in my setup) for cleaning, maintenance.

Its been running for 2 and half years and I haven't had any mold issues. I have a cover over the sump to reduce evaporation in the sump area, but above the tank is well ventilated.

 

[bkwonnn]

I think I remember you posting a similar thread last year, glad you're finally going ahead with this!

Can you add an additional ceiling vent fan inside the walls above the tank and have it share the exhaust vent with the bathroom fan?

That is exactly what i did. Thanks for the info