Is a proper canister filter really more work?

[MnFish1]

Sand and live rocks require a sump and no where as efficient as a canister for equivalent space or fact I can take out that canister, if needed. I can run multiple canisters where one sump would take up space as well as eliminate overflows and worry of flooding or the noise associated with sumps. It's not for everyone but some of us rather not deal with the headaches and why my main being designed as an AIO with a closed loop system and various canisters along with Big Blue whole house filters. Going to be quieter, less chance of flooding, minimal maintenance and still allows me to hide equipment such as heaters, dose as needed and refugium in the final compartment before return to tank. It's all in the design but for someone wanting simplicity and lacking the space for a sump then canisters can solve their issues.

BTW, cleaning a canister isn't complicated. Key is shutting flow in and letting some of the water to exit before closing off effluent than shutting pump off as you know already. Makes moving the canister easier with less water weight and no spillis when opened because water internally lower. Those FX makes this even easier with the ability to fully drain, if needed. Although I grasp that can be a hassle bi-weekly tying to service floss and GAC and why adding a second smaller unit solves that problem. HOB an even better option.

Sorry bro - I'm going to disagree with you on this as well - again slightly - difficulty is in the eye of the beholder - but - each time you 'clean' a canister filter (and with a saltwater tank - unless doing large water changes (which is also fine) - the o-ring seems to get closer and closer to leaking and causing potentially huge damage. I have used most of them in freshwater - and just won't do it again.

You can certainly do it - to me the major advantage (and practically the whole advantage) - is 1. Hiding the stuff under the tank (protein skimmer, etc) - and 2. markedly increasing the total water volume of the system. For example a 20 gallon tank with a 20 gallon sump effectively from the waste standpoint makes it 40 gallons etc etc.

 

[GARRIGA]

Sorry bro - I'm going to disagree with you on this as well - again slightly - difficulty is in the eye of the beholder - but - each time you 'clean' a canister filter (and with a saltwater tank - unless doing large water changes (which is also fine) - the o-ring seems to get closer and closer to leaking and causing potentially huge damage. I have used most of them in freshwater - and just won't do it again.

You can certainly do it - to me the major advantage (and practically the whole advantage) - is 1. Hiding the stuff under the tank (protein skimmer, etc) - and 2. markedly increasing the total water volume of the system. For example a 20 gallon tank with a 20 gallon sump effectively from the waste standpoint makes it 40 gallons etc etc.

Most 20 gallon sumps are filled 1/3 of the way otherwise one can't run a skimmer yet each FX2 adds approximately 2 gallons of water post filling it with foam and media yet that canister has zero bypass vs anything used in a sump which without a reactor isn't getting same polishing and adding a reactor just fancy name for canister. Properly designed and one doesn't need the added water for dilution. That's only a solution because something isn't right.

Canister could have a prefilter therefore extending time between servicing and greasing/replacing o-rings rather simplistic compare to cleaning a sump and maintaining a skimmer.

Skimmer can be plumbed externally thereby eliminate the need for a sump. Better yet, run algae and eliminate the skimmer. What I'm testing is decomposing detritus from coarse to fine then solved with algae. Did that past 2-1/2 years as well as 90s with a canister and 80s with an undergravel filter granted although latter two absent the algae and all without coral but decomposition has all to do with waste processing and adding corals only requires proper illumination and replacement of nutrients consumed. Latter doesn't need testing. We already have that figured out although seems we keep learning such as dosing ammonium vs holistically depending on nitrates. Oddly, knew that in the 70s from researching planted tanks yet never made the connection because in reefing we make everything seem so complex. Such as thinking one needs a skimmer in the first place. Forget that and plumbing becomes simpler although try convincing the LFS to carry UG filters. No money in that. One MUST run a big expensive sump with all the bells and whistles and latest roller mat not just to replace the socks but also the skimmate and don't you dare carbon dose without a skimmer because the world will end yet I have two plus years. Still waiting on the sky to drop.

Everything has to be put in context vs dismissed. Perhaps if I get off my butt and finish setting up version two all will be clearer migrating from UG to canister. Forty years in the making

 

[BetteMidler]

Oh, you mean this setup:

It works. Biomaster 600 feeds a UV, then the UV feeds the Macro Algae Reactor, finally feeds the tank.

I have the 45ppi pre filter & 5lbs of biomedia in the canister filter.

Would I do it again. Probably. It really is not as messy as a sump, but you are limited in a lot of things.

 

[NoLarvatusplease]

Most 20 gallon sumps are filled 1/3 of the way otherwise one can't run a skimmer yet each FX6 adds approximately 2 gallons of water post filling it with foam and media yet that canister has zero bypass vs anything used in a sump which without a reactor isn't getting same polishing and adding a reactor just fancy name for canister. Properly designed and one doesn't need the added water for dilution. That's only a solution because something isn't right.

Canister could have a prefilter therefore extending time between servicing and greasing/replacing o-rings rather simplistic compare to cleaning a sump and maintaining a skimmer.

Skimmer can be plumbed externally thereby eliminate the need for a sump. Better yet, run algae and eliminate the skimmer. What I'm testing is decomposing detritus from coarse to fine then solved with algae. Did that past 2-1/2 years as well as 90s with a canister and 80s with an undergravel filter granted although latter two absent the algae and all without coral but decomposition has all to do with waste processing and adding corals only requires proper illumination and replacement of nutrients consumed. Latter doesn't need testing. We already have that figured out although seems we keep learning such as dosing ammonium vs holistically depending on nitrates. Oddly, knew that in the 70s from researching planted tanks yet never made the connection because in reefing we make everything seem so complex. Such as thinking one needs a skimmer in the first place. Forget that and plumbing becomes simpler although try convincing the LFS to carry UG filters. No money in that. One MUST run a big expensive sump with all the bells and whistles and latest roller mat not just to replace the socks but also the skimmate and don't you dare carbon dose without a skimmer because the world will end yet I have two plus years. Still waiting on the sky to drop.

Everything has to be put in context vs dismissed. Perhaps if I get off my butt and finish setting up version two all will be clearer migrating from UG to canister. Forty years in the making

This is primarily a hobby of the I phone generation where everything has to have a techy sheen buffed with overthink and latest craze-itis.Its as well a function of 20 and 30 somethings needing something to spend their 6 figure income on besides coffee and bonemarrow broth.

 

[HNR]

Some of these replies are odd. Is it as effective/efficient as a sump + skimmer? No. That being said this is a canister that’s being used in high tech freshwater which tends to run cleaner and has a bigger emphasis on detritus removal than the average reef tank. These will work, but you will be limited as it lacks the versatility of a sump.

 

[polyppal]

This is primarily a hobby of the I phone generation where everything has to have a techy sheen buffed with overthink and latest craze-itis.Its as well a function of 20 and 30 somethings needing something to spend their 6 figure income on besides coffee and bonemarrow broth.

 

[GARRIGA]

This is primarily a hobby of the I phone generation where everything has to have a techy sheen buffed with overthink and latest craze-itis.Its as well a function of 20 and 30 somethings needing something to spend their 6 figure income on besides coffee and bonemarrow broth.

I'm not opposed to technology. Just not chasing the latest craze because the industry promoting that path. All hobbies afflicted with this desire to chase perfection and often ignoring the fact old still works and might just need a new fresh approach.

 

[Treefer32]

I'm not opposed to technology. Just not chasing the latest craze because the industry promoting that path. All hobbies afflicted with this desire to chase perfection and often ignoring the fact old still works and might just need a new fresh approach.

I agree with this statement.

I use a 75 gallon sump on my 340 gallon display. I have an algae turf scrubber, a skimmer, and a 120 watt UV sterilizer.

I also have a Nu-Clear Cannister filter plumbed off my return pump. I removed the 25 micron filter cartridge that it used and filled the filter with Matrix rock. Use a ball valve to control flow through the cannister filter and have it on a shelf above my sump so water flows down through the rock back to the start of the sump. This has been huge for managing Nitrates. I've not worried about the O-ring for 2 plus years because I no longer take the filter apart to clean it. In fact the dirtier it is the better for the denitrifying bacteria.

My nitrates used to run 60-80, now are never above 10-15 ppm Hanna High range tester.

I use the cannister to supplement my filtration and is virtually maintenance free. If for some reason it clogs, it's on my return manifold so nothing overflows, the return just pumps the water else where, but in 2+ years, it's never clogged.

 

[GARRIGA]

I agree with this statement.

I use a 75 gallon sump on my 340 gallon display. I have an algae turf scrubber, a skimmer, and a 120 watt UV sterilizer.

I also have a Nu-Clear Cannister filter plumbed off my return pump. I removed the 25 micron filter cartridge that it used and filled the filter with Matrix rock. Use a ball valve to control flow through the cannister filter and have it on a shelf above my sump so water flows down through the rock back to the start of the sump. This has been huge for managing Nitrates. I've not worried about the O-ring for 2 plus years because I no longer take the filter apart to clean it. In fact the dirtier it is the better for the denitrifying bacteria.

My nitrates used to run 60-80, now are never above 10-15 ppm Hanna High range tester.

I use the cannister to supplement my filtration and is virtually maintenance free. If for some reason it clogs, it's on my return manifold so nothing overflows, the return just pumps the water else where, but in 2+ years, it's never clogged.

In the 90s ran an Eheim I never opened except to change out floss and carbon. Rest stayed dirty. Nitrates hovered around 20 ppm and likely because flow decreased over an extended period of being left alone. At some point stopped using floss and carbon and just left it alone. Fish only but was hands off and no water changes.

 

[Treefer32]

In the 90s ran an Eheim I never opened except to change out floss and carbon. Rest stayed dirty. Nitrates hovered around 20 ppm and likely because flow decreased over an extended period of being left along. At some point stopped using floss and carbon and just left it alone. Fish only but was hands off and no water changes.

I find that despite changes in technology, there are many tried and true methods that work and are still around because they work. I liken it to the wheel. To date, thousands, maybe millions of years have passed since the advent of the wheel. We still use tires. They're rubber instead of wood, but they're still round and roll.

Cannisters definitely can have a place in a mixed reef. Mine is used on my mixed reef. I have huge colonies of gonipora, hammers, duncans, frogspawn, torches, octospawn, and acropora. A purple Montipora that thinks it owns the tank until runs into my massive15-20" in diameter Hollywood stunner chalice. I have 23+ fish. Many of which are large - a tang in the 12-14" range. I feed 12 cubes of freeze dried food per day plus a full sheet of nori every 2-3 days.

That's a lot of nitrates going in and No water changes!

 

[GARRIGA]

I find that despite changes in technology, there are many tried and true methods that work and are still around because they work. I liken it to the wheel. To date, thousands, maybe millions of years have passed since the advent of the wheel. We still use tires. They're rubber instead of wood, but they're still round and roll.

Cannisters definitely can have a place in a mixed reef. Mine is used on my mixed reef. I have huge colonies of gonipora, hammers, duncans, frogspawn, torches, octospawn, and acropora. A purple Montipora that thinks it owns the tank until runs into my massive15-20" in diameter Hollywood stunner chalice. I have 23+ fish. Many of which are large - a tang in the 12-14" range. I feed 12 cubes of freeze dried food per day plus a full sheet of nori every 2-3 days.

That's a lot of nitrates going in and No water changes!

Canisters bad yet reactors good. Still can't wrap my head around that one and some how because one uses an open box they are better and still can't grasp why unless one needs to run a skimmer that can't be plumbed externally. It's an open box vs sealed cylindrical container but hobby equates one to ultimate failure and the other must be an experienced reefer