is my tds ok?

[reeferforever]

Fancy

it was a apartment soo

 

[Fish Fan]

Couple of things:

You need to make sure that your TDS pen has been correctly calibrated.

Even with the high TDS starting water, I think that 30 something TDS after the RO sounds high. Mine comes out of the RO at like 3 or 4 TDS, and the DI brings it to zero. I am concerned that the OP will be flying through DI resin.

I'd suggest using two DI canisters, it's a more efficient use of the DI resin for most setups.

What is the water pressure entering the RO filter?

@Buckeye Hydro are you available to help here please?

 

[KrisReef]

600 to 30 is fine for reverse osmosis and adding a DI Resin chamber will do the job completely.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

600 ppm TDS feedwater to 30 ppm RO water is a 95% rejection rate. A higher rejection rate would be better. If you got that 95% up to 97% for example, your RO water would read 18 ppm and your (yet to be added) DI would last about twice as long.

Especially with your high feedwater TDS it will be important to have adequate pressure. Unfortunately, the system you bought doesn't have a pressure gauge - you need one. It is a low cost and easy addition. See the Value Pressure Gauge Kit here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/pressure-gauges-1/

When it comes time to change your prefilters, you can improve the configuration with little to no expense:

• switch from a 5 micron sediment filter to a 1 micron
• put your higher capacity carbon block next
• put your lower capacity carbon block last.

Remember that the concept of successive filters having smaller and smaller pore sizes makes sense... but that concept applies only to sediment filters. Spec the correct pore size for your sediment filter, and then put your highest capacity carbon block next.

DI add-on kits are inexpensive and easy. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/di-systems/

We'd love to earn your business!

Russ

 

[Fish Fan]

600 ppm TDS feedwater to 30 ppm RO water is a 95% rejection rate. A higher rejection rate would be better. If you got that 95% up to 97% for example, your RO water would read 18 ppm and your (yet to be added) DI would last about twice as long.

Especially with your high feedwater TDS it will be important to have adequate pressure. Unfortunately, the system you bought doesn't have a pressure gauge - you need one. It is a low cost and easy addition. See the Value Pressure Gauge Kit here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/pressure-gauges-1/

When it comes time to change your prefilters, you can improve the configuration with little to no expense:

• switch from a 5 micron sediment filter to a 1 micron
• put your higher capacity carbon block next
• put your lower capacity carbon block last.

Remember that the concept of successive filters having smaller and smaller pore sizes makes sense... but that concept applies only to sediment filters. Spec the correct pore size for your sediment filter, and then put your highest capacity carbon block next.

DI add-on kits are inexpensive and easy. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/di-systems/

We'd love to earn your business!

Russ

Thank you for your help here!

 

[Flame2hawk]

this is the unit im currently using

Since it is anRO only system and not an RODI system, often it will leave TDS residue. The DI portion would make TDS 0. For FOWLR, TDS of 32 is fine but not so for corals and reef tank. 0 preferable and never higher than 5 for sensitive SPS corals. Good idea to have an RODI for reef tank.

 

[BryanM]

I switched my dual resin out for two canisters, one for cation, the other for anion, because almost always they get used up at different rates.

 

[garyisrael]

Do you think i can just buy this and connect?

Yes

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

You can find all our Cation, Anion, and Mixed Bed Resins here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/deionization/