Is this new growth or dying?

[Biff0rz]

Light is the stock one which came with my tank:

TMC Reef Ion 30 LED aquaticsrevolution.com

Slimline Full Spectrum Reef Ready LED Built-in Bluetooth, for easy control and programming via the TMC Link app 4 individually adjustable channels using the latest LEDs Natural reef pre-sets via geolocation Silent operation – no fans Includ .... £134.99.Free P & P.

www.aquaticsrevolution.com

I've just put the intensity to 85%, it was around that mark before I believe.

Schedule is 10AM, ramps up to 12PM full intensity until 11PM and off at 12AM ramping down

My lights come on at 10am, ramp until 11am, ramp down at 9pm, off at 10pm. I only run whites for 5 or 6 hours. Also, that light seems pretty weak for sps. What size is the tank and how deep are the corals from the surface?

 

[Brad Coughlan]

My lights come on at 10am, ramp until 11am, ramp down at 9pm, off at 10pm. I only run whites for 5 or 6 hours. Also, that light seems pretty weak for sps. What size is the tank and how deep are the corals from the surface?

85L
Sps corals are on the top third of the tank

 

[Brad Coughlan]

Maybe turn the whites down and run blues 100%. Ramp it up to 100%. That light does 250 par at 100% and drops pretty dramatically down the water column from what it looks like on the website. It's a tiny bit underwhelming for SPS, but I'm sure you can find some things that will do fine. LPS might do nicely with that light. Turning the whites down should help with GHA too.

So just to clarify, 100% on the blues, maybe 20% on the whites?

For LPS, it does the job nicely ime, in terms of sps, the plating monti is doing well, grown some digi (which is now not doing well) and grown stellata, which seems to be being overgrown by the plating monti. I have just tried to move the stellata, but it is firm and solid on the rock, so I am unsure what to do

 

[Biff0rz]

85L
Sps corals are on the top third of the tank

Sorry I should have been more specific, how tall is the tank? Based on the par ratings, it looks like the sps might only be getting 100 par?

 

[Brad Coughlan]

Sorry I should have been more specific, how tall is the tank? Based on the par ratings, it looks like the sps might only be getting 100 par?

40cm tall

 

[Rappa]

40cm tall

Looks like your SPS is in the 150-200PAR range according to the manufacturers chart. I would run the whites 20% or even less for a while. Unless you can specify when the whites run? If so, maybe run the whites only when you're home to enjoy the viewing period for now? Crank up the blues and go up to 100% intensity. The Monti is doing well because they don't like a ton of light... unless you acclimate them slowly based on my experience only...

You should be able to rip that coral off the rock just use your muscles If not, frag it and home the frag somewhere high up, where you would like it. If anything remains on the rock after fragging, it may spark new growth and begin another colony.

 

[Dburr1014]

Looks like your SPS is in the 150-200PAR range according to the manufacturers chart. I would run the whites 20% or even less for a while. Unless you can specify when the whites run? If so, maybe run the whites only when you're home to enjoy the viewing period for now? Crank up the blues and go up to 100% intensity. The Monti is doing well because they don't like a ton of light... unless you acclimate them slowly based on my experience only...

You should be able to rip that coral off the rock just use your muscles If not, frag it and home the frag somewhere high up, where you would like it. If anything remains on the rock after fragging, it may spark new growth and begin another colony.

I seriously doubt it's getting that much par. Most manufacturers show their par ratings but it's in open air not in water. In water it's going to be drastically lower.

 

[Rappa]

I seriously doubt it's getting that much par. Most manufacturers show their par ratings but it's in open air not in water. In water it's going to be drastically lower.

I hear you... Just trying to stay positive I guess...

 

[Brad Coughlan]

Looks like your SPS is in the 150-200PAR range according to the manufacturers chart. I would run the whites 20% or even less for a while. Unless you can specify when the whites run? If so, maybe run the whites only when you're home to enjoy the viewing period for now? Crank up the blues and go up to 100% intensity. The Monti is doing well because they don't like a ton of light... unless you acclimate them slowly based on my experience only...

You should be able to rip that coral off the rock just use your muscles If not, frag it and home the frag somewhere high up, where you would like it. If anything remains on the rock after fragging, it may spark new growth and begin another colony.

Right ok then - I'll go with 100% blues, 15% whites, if that sounds good.
Should I set it to that immediately? Or gradually ease them into it?

As for pulling the stellata off, I should rephrase it. It's probably easy to pull off, but I was just concerned about breaking it all into pieces

 

[Brad Coughlan]

Looks like your SPS is in the 150-200PAR range according to the manufacturers chart. I would run the whites 20% or even less for a while. Unless you can specify when the whites run? If so, maybe run the whites only when you're home to enjoy the viewing period for now? Crank up the blues and go up to 100% intensity. The Monti is doing well because they don't like a ton of light... unless you acclimate them slowly based on my experience only...

You should be able to rip that coral off the rock just use your muscles If not, frag it and home the frag somewhere high up, where you would like it. If anything remains on the rock after fragging, it may spark new growth and begin another colony.

Would this be good?

 

[Biff0rz]

Only one way to know the par now, and that's to get a meter on it and see what it's at. 200-250 would be good but as others said, I doubt it's that high. I also don't think changing the colors is going to fix your issue at this point. You need to get the tank stable and level things off a bit. Get the alk closer to 8 (SLOWLY) and try to keep po4/no3 where you had it.

 

[Rappa]

I don't think you are going to do too much damage if you changed to that schedule now. If you were running Radion's, then yeah I would go much slower. Your lighting spectrum is almost exactly what I am running on my Radion's. I saw improvement in coral growth and less GHA growth after I made that change and left it there... and stopped playing with it. The GHA seemed to like the white's in my tank.

 

[Rappa]

Actually I would like to rephrase my above statement.

I definitely saw less GHA growth and my GHA issue is slowly dying off with bi-weekly manual removal sessions. I have a real problem with that stuff. I am seeing less actual SPS "growth" in general height of established sticks, however, I am 100% noticing new growth as in new off shoots from the bases, bases attaching to my rock and widening, and new branching shoots off the established sticks. I have been increasing the intensity of my Radion's from 30% (where I finally stabilized things), to almost 50% today. I have made this change in intensity over the past 2 months. I think I will eventually turn the whites up a little at a time, until I enjoy the viewing appearance... as long as it doesn't negatively effect the coral health. I will also keep increasing intensity slowly, until I notice my LPS not liking it.

When I was playing around with lighting schedules and varying intensities, my SPS would turn brown, and the polyps slowly died off until the sticks were just 100% algae magnets. Again, stability is the key, as with almost everything else in reefing.

 

[Brad Coughlan]

Actually I would like to rephrase my above statement.

I definitely saw less GHA growth and my GHA issue is slowly dying off with bi-weekly manual removal sessions. I have a real problem with that stuff. I am seeing less actual SPS "growth" in general height of established sticks, however, I am 100% noticing new growth as in new off shoots from the bases, bases attaching to my rock and widening, and new branching shoots off the established sticks. I have been increasing the intensity of my Radion's from 30% (where I finally stabilized things), to almost 50% today. I have made this change in intensity over the past 2 months. I think I will eventually turn the whites up a little at a time, until I enjoy the viewing appearance... as long as it doesn't negatively effect the coral health. I will also keep increasing intensity slowly, until I notice my LPS not liking it.

When I was playing around with lighting schedules and varying intensities, my SPS would turn brown, and the polyps slowly died off until the sticks were just 100% algae magnets. Again, stability is the key, as with almost everything else in reefing.

Interesting

Also, LFS tested my water -

Nitrate - 8ppm
Phosphate - 0.07ppm
Calcium - 424 ppm
Magnesium - 1334ppm
Alkalinity - 8dKH
pH - 7.9

Interestingly, ammonia was at 0.1 ppm. My LFS has tested before and there has been detectable ammonia also.
This is the kit that they use (or at least one like this)

API AquaSpin | Charterhouse Aquatics

Presenting API AQUASPIN, a cutting-edge technology that combines speed and accuracy for the best aquarium and pond water analysis results anywhere, all in just two minutes!

charterhouse-aquatics.com

 

[Rappa]

Interesting

Also, LFS tested my water -

Nitrate - 8ppm
Phosphate - 0.07ppm
Calcium - 424 ppm
Magnesium - 1334ppm
Alkalinity - 8dKH
pH - 7.9

Interestingly, ammonia was at 0.1 ppm. My LFS has tested before and there has been detectable ammonia also.
This is the kit that they use (or at least one like this)

API AquaSpin | Charterhouse Aquatics

Presenting API AQUASPIN, a cutting-edge technology that combines speed and accuracy for the best aquarium and pond water analysis results anywhere, all in just two minutes!

charterhouse-aquatics.com

I've been told to take those tests with a grain of salt... They can be a good starting point, but I've been told they are frequently inaccurate. If there is ammonia, could be dying snails? I do see some flipped over in one of your pics. Wouldn't take much to spike in a small volume tank. Your tank is cycled, so just keep on keeping on. Nutrient levels are fine, no more gfo or nophos (whatever you are using). Just water changes, remove GHA when it gets long enough to siphon off or pull off rocks. Try that for a while with those light changes and see what happens. Maybe shorten your light cycle, as it may be too long. Mine ramps up from 11AM and ramped down by 9pm. Maybe run longer if your lights are not doing the job adequately.

 

[Dburr1014]

Interesting

Also, LFS tested my water -

Nitrate - 8ppm
Phosphate - 0.07ppm
Calcium - 424 ppm
Magnesium - 1334ppm
Alkalinity - 8dKH
pH - 7.9

Interestingly, ammonia was at 0.1 ppm. My LFS has tested before and there has been detectable ammonia also.
This is the kit that they use (or at least one like this)

API AquaSpin | Charterhouse Aquatics

Presenting API AQUASPIN, a cutting-edge technology that combines speed and accuracy for the best aquarium and pond water analysis results anywhere, all in just two minutes!

charterhouse-aquatics.com

Ignore the ammonia, false test.

 

[Brad Coughlan]

I've been told to take those tests with a grain of salt... They can be a good starting point, but I've been told they are frequently inaccurate. If there is ammonia, could be dying snails? I do see some flipped over in one of your pics. Wouldn't take much to spike in a small volume tank. Your tank is cycled, so just keep on keeping on. Nutrient levels are fine, no more gfo or nophos (whatever you are using). Just water changes, remove GHA when it gets long enough to siphon off or pull off rocks. Try that for a while with those light changes and see what happens. Maybe shorten your light cycle, as it may be too long. Mine ramps up from 11AM and ramped down by 9pm. Maybe run longer if your lights are not doing the job adequately.

Those snails have been dead for ages, I am just keeping the shells in there.
Should I now test the water with my Saliferts? I'll do alk, cal and nutrients. I'll stick with the current lighting and only shorten if necessary. What I'm struggling with is holding these levels, as I don't know what the consumption rate of alk, cal and mag is. What's the best way to get an idea of it? The lack of coralline suggests to me it isn't a great amount, although I have growing montis, so at least some is being used.

 

[Brad Coughlan]

Ignore the ammonia, false test.

Right ok then, that's a good sign. Ammonia on a tank this old would be worrying, although I have stepped up feeding as of recently

 

[Dburr1014]

To check alk and calcium consumption, do a test and record the results and wait 24 hours or 48 hours and do the test again at the same time of day as the first test. Do not add any supplements during this time . Subtract the second result from the first result. That would be your consumption for one or two days however long you waited.

 

[Brad Coughlan]

To check alk and calcium consumption, do a test and record the results and wait 24 hours or 48 hours and do the test again at the same time of day as the first test. Do not add any supplements during this time . Subtract the second result from the first result. That would be your consumption for one or two days however long you waited.

Thanks

Trouble is, since I am using a salifert and not a digital test like a hanna, if it was less than I believe 0.3dkh, I wouldn't notice

Does the salifert have a lower resolution test mode?