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I am not surprised that indoor air didn’t have much impact. Your tank it probably near equilibrium with the indoor air.Alright, more than one hour had past and the indoor aeration test result was disappointing.
-Using the salifert ph test kit, freshly scooped tank water tested 8.0ph (the end of my peak light cycle, highest ph during the day)
-Aerated tank water in a cup tested a little darker than 8.0ph on the chart but not quite dark enough for 8.15ph.
I couldn’t do the outdoor aeration test because air temperature difference is 22 degrees fahrenheit.
I believe 10 degrees fahrenheit difference is the limit to perform the test.I am not surprised that indoor air didn’t have much impact. Your tank it probably near equilibrium with the indoor air.
I would expect outdoor air to be more impactful. Perhaps Randy can comment on whether the temperature difference matters for the test.
Ah ok. Open your windows and put on a jacket!!I believe 10 degrees fahrenheit difference is the limit to perform the test.
After 1 hour of aeration of 450 ppm CO2Equilibrium chart results lend me to do the aeration test of a cup of tank water
In theory I should be at 8.21 after cup of water test
my pH in a cup of reef tank water reads 7.79, so I should see about a .42 boost in an hour or so
After 90 minutes aeration I'm going to assume the pH will be around 8.2. With moving my pH probe to this cup if the Apex and Apex probe are calibrated correctly I should be reading on Apex Fusion 8.2 +/-
Equilibrium pH Calculator
Aquarium calculator; Estimate the equilibrium pH of your aquarium assuming it is thoroughly aerated.www.hamzasreef.com
I really don’t know. I went back and read Randy’s article that I posted at the beginning of this thread and the only thing I could come up with pH measurement error. I don’t know how likely that is. If the pH probe calibrates correctly I’ve always assumed that means it’s accurate.After 1 hour of aeration of 450 ppm CO2
Cup of water only raised to 8.03
Help me out on this, but the only variables to come up with this conclusion are.........
#1 The pH probe and Apex are not reporting true pH
#2 The Carbonate Alkalinity is actually 4.5 instead of 7.5
#3 CO2 meters are both wrong at 465
All other variables are set ............
500 feet above sea level
Salinity 1.026
Water Temp 77
Hello Randy, I just read your article about ph. I did not know carbon dosing impact ph. I have been using red sea nopox for the past few months. Question about adding lime to carbon a source, will it work with nopox? Or only vodka? I’ve read that nopox contains vodka and ethanol and (sugar?)
I’m currently doing the aeration test with indoor air. 8.0ph before aeration lets see what the ph will be with aeration in an hour.
After 1 hour of aeration of 450 ppm CO2
Cup of water only raised to 8.03
Help me out on this, but the only variables to come up with this conclusion are.........
#1 The pH probe and Apex are not reporting true pH
#2 The Carbonate Alkalinity is actually 4.5 instead of 7.5
#3 CO2 meters are both wrong at 465
All other variables are set ............
500 feet above sea level
Salinity 1.026
Water Temp 77
@Randy Holmes-FarleyThat was indoor air?
#1 seems most likely, #2 least likely, IMO.
PH probe error ?
@Randy Holmes-FarleyEither that or insufficient aeration time.
@Randy Holmes-Farley
Aerating for 4 hours with 2" aeration ball on huge air pump pulling in outside of 400ppm CO2
@14 foot reef This got me pondering. Your main tank is at equilibrium with indoor CO2. Because of the sheer size of surface area of your main display, its just absorbing indoor CO2. What if you put solid lids on the main tank to keep indoor air contact and surface agitation to a minimum?I am not surprised that indoor air didn’t have much impact. Your tank it probably near equilibrium with the indoor air.
My frag tank is outside in the 400ppm fresh air area has 72" x 48" surface area with water motion that a squirrel could surf across on a short board.@14 foot reef This got me pondering. Your main tank is at equilibrium with indoor CO2. Because of the sheer size of surface area of your main display, its just absorbing indoor CO2. What if you put solid lids on the main tank to keep indoor air contact and surface agitation to a minimum?
I’ve been thinking this is my issue as well. All efforts to raise my ph by internal aeration such as protein skimmer, return outflow pointing upwards, wave maker placed 3 inches under water for violent water agitation are actually suppressing ph because indoor CO2 is so high.
Edit: As far as water cup test, yeah it doesn’t make sense. I’m leaning towards #3
Same as my issue. I was able to push indoor air through the co2 scrubbers (I used two scrubbers since I have an air pump with two outlets). It’s able to bring it up by .05 to .1 pH but nothing dramatic. Plus I use it all up in four to five days if it’s 27/7.@14 foot reef This got me pondering. Your main tank is at equilibrium with indoor CO2. Because of the sheer size of surface area of your main display, its just absorbing indoor CO2. What if you put solid lids on the main tank to keep indoor air contact and surface agitation to a minimum?
I’ve been thinking this is my issue as well. All efforts to raise my ph by internal aeration such as protein skimmer, return outflow pointing upwards, wave maker placed 3 inches under water for violent water agitation are actually suppressing ph because indoor CO2 is so high.
Edit: As far as water cup test, yeah it doesn’t make sense. I’m leaning towards #3
I dose 15300ml of Kalk through Avast K2 kalk stirrer on a reverse light timer, so dosed in 12 hours at nightSame as my issue. I was able to push indoor air through the co2 scrubbers (I used two scrubbers since I have an air pump with two outlets). It’s able to bring it up by .05 to .1 pH but nothing dramatic. Plus I use it all up in four to five days if it’s 27/7.
What worked for me is a Kalk drip through avast stirrer with apex programming to dose when it goes below 8.1 and stop at 8.12 and keep my alk under 12. I’ve seen fantastic growth so far when keeping my pH above 8.2 at peak photo period such as my sps basing which I’ve never seen in my systems before. I think using Kalk is cost beneficial in the long run, however you deploy it (via ato or Kalk drip) rather than spend on co2 media.
I still use the air pump at night when it dips below 8.1 pH. This way I don’t have to push my alk so high with the Kalk while getting my pH boost from both Kalk and co2 scrubbers.