krayzie
Community Member
i raised the water but its still not even at the sensors (see pic 1)
also the waterbox 20 cube and waterbox 25 Peninsula have different overall AIO dimensions which probably affects water level
New RedSea Nanomat fit in a Waterbox?
- Thread starter KENNYSREEF
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i raised the water but its still not even at the sensors (see pic 1)
also the waterbox 20 cube and waterbox 25 Peninsula have different overall AIO dimensions which probably affects water level
I think your display area water level is still too low
i raised the water but its still not even at the sensors (see pic 1)
also the waterbox 20 cube and waterbox 25 Peninsula have different overall AIO dimensions which probably affects water level
The difference between where the nanomat sits in his adapter and mine is 2mm. I have compared them. His works by sitting on the factory filter supports, mine work with or without. If you don’t like your water level I’ll happily refund your money.
just to compare to Orlandito14's version. he has as WB 20 and is visually sitting much lower in the chamber
RoanokeReef
Well-Known Member
Since this thread has some traction thought I'd ask here, anyone making an adapter or can for a Innovative Marine Fusion 15?
yanni
Well-Known Member
Hey mate. Just curious to hear how you’re going with it a few weeks down the track now? Excited for my adapter to arriveI’m working on a 3D printed adapter for the Peninsula 25 that works when you’ve cut out the filter sock supports
SaltLifeMom
Community Member
Hi all. I ordered Ivan's adapter but I can't get my water level right in my WB 25 in order for the nano mat to advance on its own. Any suggestions?
_Tanuki_
New Member
Glad I found this thread.
I've got a waterbox cube 10, which I'm pretty sure has the same rear design as the 20, and have been modding the reefmat nano to work with it.
I initially designed a 3d printed adapter for it, and found it didn't work. it was a bit more complex than I initially thought, and the roller sat on an obvious angle and the sensor was too high.
I drew the assembly up and cad and found this:
as you can see, there's a few issues:
1- The glass ledges that support the filtersock holder were siliconed in place at different heights. (about 5mm difference).
2- The sensor prongs (pink) sit well above bottom of the weir. For the tank to work properly, the water should never rise above the bottom of the weir, as you will get recirculation in the tank and inefficient filtration.
Unsurprisingly, the design of the rear filtration in the redsea images appears very different to the waterbox, and the unit sits well below the bottom of the weir in their marketing images
as an aside, this is a fantastic video explaining how water level affects filtration in an AIO, and how to determine a good water level.
skip to around the 8min mark when he starts to explain the rear water levels
absolutely worth a watch.
So I decided to have another crack at it. this time I figured that the 1st step was to get the roller level and as low as possible in the tank.
This is the design I settled on for the adapter
I designed it to be CNC machined from polycarbonate (but could also be 3d printed). the blue faces are "adjustable" ribs, that can be filed or sanded down to fine tune how low the roller sits in the rear chamber
On the underside, the 2 ribs can be tuned to make sure the whole thing sits level in the rear chamber. I suspect the supports it sits on aren't accurately stuck in place, and if you measured 10 different tanks you would get 10 different results...
After having it machined, and filing it down to an ideal height it was time to tackle the sensor height...
The 3 central bosses on the assembly that hold the sensor mount in place are glued or ultrasonically welded together, so it's not easy to remove. I cut it out as carefully as I could and managed to split the lower of the 3 bosses apart.
I then slotted the mount as below
The mount could then be pinned back in place on the lower boss
as you can see, it sits significantly lower than the original, and the sensor prongs are now below the lowest edge of the inlet.
Final assembly:
The roller seems to be working well now. it's auto rolling, not using too much fleece, and the water level in the rear chambers looks good.
All things continuing well I might 3d print or machine up a new sensor bracket that's less hacky, and has some vertical adjustment for the sensor height.
Thought this might be worth sharing with anyone looking to convert this to a waterbox AIO.
I've got a waterbox cube 10, which I'm pretty sure has the same rear design as the 20, and have been modding the reefmat nano to work with it.
I initially designed a 3d printed adapter for it, and found it didn't work. it was a bit more complex than I initially thought, and the roller sat on an obvious angle and the sensor was too high.
I drew the assembly up and cad and found this:
as you can see, there's a few issues:
1- The glass ledges that support the filtersock holder were siliconed in place at different heights. (about 5mm difference).
2- The sensor prongs (pink) sit well above bottom of the weir. For the tank to work properly, the water should never rise above the bottom of the weir, as you will get recirculation in the tank and inefficient filtration.
Unsurprisingly, the design of the rear filtration in the redsea images appears very different to the waterbox, and the unit sits well below the bottom of the weir in their marketing images
as an aside, this is a fantastic video explaining how water level affects filtration in an AIO, and how to determine a good water level.
skip to around the 8min mark when he starts to explain the rear water levels
absolutely worth a watch.
So I decided to have another crack at it. this time I figured that the 1st step was to get the roller level and as low as possible in the tank.
This is the design I settled on for the adapter
I designed it to be CNC machined from polycarbonate (but could also be 3d printed). the blue faces are "adjustable" ribs, that can be filed or sanded down to fine tune how low the roller sits in the rear chamber
On the underside, the 2 ribs can be tuned to make sure the whole thing sits level in the rear chamber. I suspect the supports it sits on aren't accurately stuck in place, and if you measured 10 different tanks you would get 10 different results...
After having it machined, and filing it down to an ideal height it was time to tackle the sensor height...
The 3 central bosses on the assembly that hold the sensor mount in place are glued or ultrasonically welded together, so it's not easy to remove. I cut it out as carefully as I could and managed to split the lower of the 3 bosses apart.
I then slotted the mount as below
The mount could then be pinned back in place on the lower boss
as you can see, it sits significantly lower than the original, and the sensor prongs are now below the lowest edge of the inlet.
Final assembly:
The roller seems to be working well now. it's auto rolling, not using too much fleece, and the water level in the rear chambers looks good.
All things continuing well I might 3d print or machine up a new sensor bracket that's less hacky, and has some vertical adjustment for the sensor height.
Thought this might be worth sharing with anyone looking to convert this to a waterbox AIO.
yanni
Well-Known Member
Glad I found this thread.
I've got a waterbox cube 10, which I'm pretty sure has the same rear design as the 20, and have been modding the reefmat nano to work with it.
I initially designed a 3d printed adapter for it, and found it didn't work. it was a bit more complex than I initially thought, and the roller sat on an obvious angle and the sensor was too high.
I drew the assembly up and cad and found this:
as you can see, there's a few issues:
1- The glass ledges that support the filtersock holder were siliconed in place at different heights. (about 5mm difference).
2- The sensor prongs (pink) sit well above bottom of the weir. For the tank to work properly, the water should never rise above the bottom of the weir, as you will get recirculation in the tank and inefficient filtration.
Unsurprisingly, the design of the rear filtration in the redsea images appears very different to the waterbox, and the unit sits well below the bottom of the weir in their marketing images
as an aside, this is a fantastic video explaining how water level affects filtration in an AIO, and how to determine a good water level.
skip to around the 8min mark when he starts to explain the rear water levels
absolutely worth a watch.
So I decided to have another crack at it. this time I figured that the 1st step was to get the roller level and as low as possible in the tank.
This is the design I settled on for the adapter
I designed it to be CNC machined from polycarbonate (but could also be 3d printed). the blue faces are "adjustable" ribs, that can be filed or sanded down to fine tune how low the roller sits in the rear chamber
On the underside, the 2 ribs can be tuned to make sure the whole thing sits level in the rear chamber. I suspect the supports it sits on aren't accurately stuck in place, and if you measured 10 different tanks you would get 10 different results...
After having it machined, and filing it down to an ideal height it was time to tackle the sensor height...
The 3 central bosses on the assembly that hold the sensor mount in place are glued or ultrasonically welded together, so it's not easy to remove. I cut it out as carefully as I could and managed to split the lower of the 3 bosses apart.
I then slotted the mount as below
The mount could then be pinned back in place on the lower boss
as you can see, it sits significantly lower than the original, and the sensor prongs are now below the lowest edge of the inlet.
Final assembly:
The roller seems to be working well now. it's auto rolling, not using too much fleece, and the water level in the rear chambers looks good.
All things continuing well I might 3d print or machine up a new sensor bracket that's less hacky, and has some vertical adjustment for the sensor height.
Thought this might be worth sharing with anyone looking to convert this to a waterbox AIO.
This is insane work. Would you consider selling prints, or can I buy the file from you?
yanni
Well-Known Member
Glad I found this thread.
I've got a waterbox cube 10, which I'm pretty sure has the same rear design as the 20, and have been modding the reefmat nano to work with it.
I initially designed a 3d printed adapter for it, and found it didn't work. it was a bit more complex than I initially thought, and the roller sat on an obvious angle and the sensor was too high.
I drew the assembly up and cad and found this:
as you can see, there's a few issues:
1- The glass ledges that support the filtersock holder were siliconed in place at different heights. (about 5mm difference).
2- The sensor prongs (pink) sit well above bottom of the weir. For the tank to work properly, the water should never rise above the bottom of the weir, as you will get recirculation in the tank and inefficient filtration.
Unsurprisingly, the design of the rear filtration in the redsea images appears very different to the waterbox, and the unit sits well below the bottom of the weir in their marketing images
as an aside, this is a fantastic video explaining how water level affects filtration in an AIO, and how to determine a good water level.
skip to around the 8min mark when he starts to explain the rear water levels
absolutely worth a watch.
So I decided to have another crack at it. this time I figured that the 1st step was to get the roller level and as low as possible in the tank.
This is the design I settled on for the adapter
I designed it to be CNC machined from polycarbonate (but could also be 3d printed). the blue faces are "adjustable" ribs, that can be filed or sanded down to fine tune how low the roller sits in the rear chamber
On the underside, the 2 ribs can be tuned to make sure the whole thing sits level in the rear chamber. I suspect the supports it sits on aren't accurately stuck in place, and if you measured 10 different tanks you would get 10 different results...
After having it machined, and filing it down to an ideal height it was time to tackle the sensor height...
The 3 central bosses on the assembly that hold the sensor mount in place are glued or ultrasonically welded together, so it's not easy to remove. I cut it out as carefully as I could and managed to split the lower of the 3 bosses apart.
I then slotted the mount as below
The mount could then be pinned back in place on the lower boss
as you can see, it sits significantly lower than the original, and the sensor prongs are now below the lowest edge of the inlet.
Final assembly:
The roller seems to be working well now. it's auto rolling, not using too much fleece, and the water level in the rear chambers looks good.
All things continuing well I might 3d print or machine up a new sensor bracket that's less hacky, and has some vertical adjustment for the sensor height.
Thought this might be worth sharing with anyone looking to convert this to a waterbox AIO.
Also, how did you manage to remove the bracket? I plan on copying what you did
krayzie
Community Member
Glad I found this thread.
I've got a waterbox cube 10, which I'm pretty sure has the same rear design as the 20, and have been modding the reefmat nano to work with it.
I initially designed a 3d printed adapter for it, and found it didn't work. it was a bit more complex than I initially thought, and the roller sat on an obvious angle and the sensor was too high.
I drew the assembly up and cad and found this:
as you can see, there's a few issues:
1- The glass ledges that support the filtersock holder were siliconed in place at different heights. (about 5mm difference).
2- The sensor prongs (pink) sit well above bottom of the weir. For the tank to work properly, the water should never rise above the bottom of the weir, as you will get recirculation in the tank and inefficient filtration.
Unsurprisingly, the design of the rear filtration in the redsea images appears very different to the waterbox, and the unit sits well below the bottom of the weir in their marketing images
as an aside, this is a fantastic video explaining how water level affects filtration in an AIO, and how to determine a good water level.
skip to around the 8min mark when he starts to explain the rear water levels
absolutely worth a watch.
So I decided to have another crack at it. this time I figured that the 1st step was to get the roller level and as low as possible in the tank.
This is the design I settled on for the adapter
I designed it to be CNC machined from polycarbonate (but could also be 3d printed). the blue faces are "adjustable" ribs, that can be filed or sanded down to fine tune how low the roller sits in the rear chamber
On the underside, the 2 ribs can be tuned to make sure the whole thing sits level in the rear chamber. I suspect the supports it sits on aren't accurately stuck in place, and if you measured 10 different tanks you would get 10 different results...
After having it machined, and filing it down to an ideal height it was time to tackle the sensor height...
The 3 central bosses on the assembly that hold the sensor mount in place are glued or ultrasonically welded together, so it's not easy to remove. I cut it out as carefully as I could and managed to split the lower of the 3 bosses apart.
I then slotted the mount as below
The mount could then be pinned back in place on the lower boss
as you can see, it sits significantly lower than the original, and the sensor prongs are now below the lowest edge of the inlet.
Final assembly:
The roller seems to be working well now. it's auto rolling, not using too much fleece, and the water level in the rear chambers looks good.
All things continuing well I might 3d print or machine up a new sensor bracket that's less hacky, and has some vertical adjustment for the sensor height.
Thought this might be worth sharing with anyone looking to convert this to a waterbox AIO.
wow you have gone brute force on it! but i agree with you the sensors need to sit in the water lower
krayzie
Community Member
i didnt intend to buy a 3d printer but wasnt satisfied with the print i received so i have been going through alot of versions. (i suck at CAD) i have used Orlandito14's base STL https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-redsea-nanomat-fit-in-a-waterbox.1068500/post-12920625
and remixed a few versions
it looks as though i might have made progress to finally get it to roll
this is today you can see the faint (1/12- 1st of december)
previous rolls:
and remixed a few versions
it looks as though i might have made progress to finally get it to roll
this is today you can see the faint (1/12- 1st of december)
previous rolls:
_Tanuki_
New Member
Nice!i didnt intend to buy a 3d printer but wasnt satisfied with the print i received so i have been going through alot of versions. (i suck at CAD) i have used Orlandito14's base STL https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-redsea-nanomat-fit-in-a-waterbox.1068500/post-12920625
and remixed a few versions
it looks as though i might have made progress to finally get it to roll
this is today you can see the faint (1/12- 1st of december)
previous rolls:
you seem to have gotten it significantly lower into the chamber than the ones I'm seeing in the earlier posts, and that fleece is definitely pulling some crud out!.
I didn't want to remove the sock holders from mine which hamstrung me a bit. How's the rear water level looking?
_Tanuki_
New Member
Also, how did you manage to remove the bracket? I plan on copying what you did
These are the type of plastic cutters I used to remove the sensor mount:
You just snip it out around the bosses basically.
I've attached a .step and .stl file of the adapter for you.
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