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I rarely directly feed any corals. I do broadcast SF Bay eggs and they may get some of that or stray piecs of mysis.Often feeding?
I’ve seen your posts about it and have no idea also. Whatever caused my acantho issues, has no effect on my 4 Cynarina at all, nor any other coral.The death of my Canaria as well as other corals during the last two years is associated with me turning off the UV. My line of thinking that at a certain load of opportunistic bacteria the corals immune system cannot cope anymore. This is just an hypothesis I have no direct proof for.
I do agree with you and it’s an interesting discussion that’s been had many times and probably has a current thread dedicated but the issue with uv is:Based on the fact that the level of initial pathogenic bacteria is a key factor for the ability of the immune system to win. A UV system is the only item that reduces the bacterial count in the water column. Without it we are a kind of gambling: one event of overfeeding or an unseen critter that dies and decomposes releasing organics to the water can cause a surge in bacteria that will occasionally kill a coral in our tank.
I have now brought two acanthos back from the brim. What did I do you ask? Placed them in a different tank, same water chemistry, same routine. Both had elevate phosphates. In my case, I can only suppose that one of my fish was irritating them and that led to them starting a slow but marked decline. The fish in the new system don’t bother them and slowly they’ve regained their tissue. I was about to throw in the towel for all acantho is my systems.I just ditched a 24k acantho. It was great then rapidly declined for unknown reasons. Lost all color in mouth area and receded showing skeleton. I tried iodine dip, revive, h202 bath. Nothing helped. Mouth always open. Tried target feeding and not feeding at all. Tried basting the inside of the mouth in case sand was in it. Lowering lights. Lower flow. Couldn’t figure it out
Last Inflated few weeks ago and I could tell it was bleaching
Elevated out of sand - bleached and 1 skeletal ridge showing
Tried lowering lights, feeding, dips…then two skeletal ridges showed plus mouth gaping. The eroding flesh by the skeletal ridges spread to the mouth
Dipped and found bristle worms + mini brittle stars living in the skeletal ridges
Then did kfc dip as last resort
Flesh would blow off in chunks with a baster. I isolated in a bag after the 5 hour dip. This was brand new water. It was murky by next day
Multiple skeletal ridges. Just kept declining. I didn’t feel comfortable putting back in the tank…I never saw any improvement in any way. Decided to toss it
All other corals were fine including scoly and Cynarina and other acantho
Now a few weeks later my green acantho is receding. I just don’t get it. All other corals fine
I also see similar bleaching in the mouth area. I have no idea what’s going on when acantho have these symptoms but the rest of my tank…
Whatever it is, only acantho are affected.
Only thing I can identify is my phosphates are elevated and at .38
It got spiked after trying some new foods and not knowing the impact they would have on my system. Once I realized what was happening I stopped using them, and worked on slowing bringing the phosphate down.
I have never seen a fish bother mine but I do have bristleworm issues.I have now brought two acanthos back from the brim. What did I do you ask? Placed them in a different tank, same water chemistry, same routine. Both had elevate phosphates. In my case, I can only suppose that one of my fish was irritating them and that led to them starting a slow but marked decline. The fish in the new system don’t bother them and slowly they’ve regained their tissue. I was about to throw in the towel for all acantho is my systems.
Very interesting. I know @Mr_Knightley had a Cynarina pathogen in his tank before. It makes me wonder if you had something similar in one system but not the otherI have now brought two acanthos back from the brim. What did I do you ask? Placed them in a different tank, same water chemistry, same routine. Both had elevate phosphates. In my case, I can only suppose that one of my fish was irritating them and that led to them starting a slow but marked decline. The fish in the new system don’t bother them and slowly they’ve regained their tissue. I was about to throw in the towel for all acantho is my systems.
I use all Hanna digital testers and have unnecessarily replaced reagents just in case. I elevated the acantho’s 2” off the sandbed on coral stands made for meat corals, and has not helped so far.Maybe check your test kits. I purchased a Hanna Nitrate high range kit and was shocked at the results. My nyos nitrate kit showed under 5pmm whereas the Hanna showed 20ppm. Subsequent testing showed the Hanna to be correct. I don’t lose anything it the meat corals weren’t as happy as they should be.
I also keep the meaty corals raised off of the sand bed. The sand bed is, as Ryan from BRS says, the tank toilet. Any minor wound in the coral is a wonderful opportunity for any bacteria to invade. I place mine on egg crate but rock does the job.
The acantho’s were all on the sand from the start and did fine. I got the stands after they started declining while troubleshooting, and fearing sand irritation, bristleworms, etcForgive me if you have already stated this but are you placing the acanthos on the stands from day one? I have lost corals where they have been placed on the sand, suffered a scrape of some sort and then suddenly gone downhill. It’s very hard to recover one afterwards.
Other than that you are covering all bases. I think we have all lost corals to idiopathic disease. Sometimes when corals are imported I suppose they may already have their card marked. Maybe they already contain pests that lead to a slow at first then subsequent quick demise. This hobby is so infuriating and I’m not sure that will change until we are able to detect “things” on a cellular level and that is unlikely to happen as it’s too small a hobby.
Thanks!Beautiful specimen!