Ok, I tested Parameters... Now What?

[FortyAloha]

I finally received all of my Hanna testers & spent a good amount of time getting readings, and this is where we're at with a 2 week old 13.5 gallon tank. Fish in cycled with 1 chunk live rock & One & only. PS, I did the first 30% water change yesterday.

• Salinity: 1.026 sg with calibrated refractometer & 1.024 on a calibrated Hanna digital salinity tester. (why the difference?)
• Temp: 77.5, usually right around 78
• pH: 7.65 - LOW if my HM digital reader is correctly calibrated (stated to be calibrated in the box)
• Calcium: 600ppm LOW
• Alkalinity: 6.8 dKH LOW
• Magnesium: 1370 - in range
• Nitrate: 9.1 ppm
• Nitrite: .1776 ppm (after converting from ppb & nitrate nitrogen & nitrate ion measurement)
• Ammonia: .21 total ammonia, or .0037 NH3 - much lower than previous tests

For those experienced reefers, what do these numbers tell you? I had already assumed the nitrogen cycle was ready for another fish, but why is my pH, Calcium & Alk low if I don't have any corals consuming? Should I be dosing this tank already? My ph went up slightly after the water change from 7.57.

Happy Reefing!

 

[crazyfishmom]

600 ppm calcium is actually pretty high and may be contributing to the low alkalinity.

Recommended calcium is 420-450 ppm.

pH may be impacted by the low alkalinity.

 

[FortyAloha]

600 ppm calcium is actually pretty high and may be contributing to the low alkalinity.

Recommended calcium is 420-450 ppm.

pH may be impacted by the low alkalinity.

Whoops, yes I meant high for the Ca. I guess I only thought you would need to dose an aquarium for corals. What would you try to get the levels in order?

 

[Uncle99]

Hanna CA and MG testers are junk, the sample size is too small to read consistently, and they both read high. Both sit on my work table not doing anything. Got fooled on those three. However the Alk, nitrate and phosphate work great, week over week, year over year.

Their phosphate checker IMO is the super star in their line as, at least for me, I have trouble discerning minute colour changes less than .25ppm and I do spend much time wanting more like .05-.1ppm. Other tests read either .25ppm or looks clear so I guess, zero, zero being a terrible number as it may invite pest type stuff.

I would set up a worksheet to record findings.
Resist reacting quickly to results, look for trends, and manage those with the intent to get to a point whereas each one has the smallest flux possible.

When you provide this type of water chemistry, the tank matures faster in the development of micro good guy algae and bacteria. These are the true CUC but for the most part, go site unseen.

The population and diversity of these unseen hero’s is the back bone of great systems.

 

[KrisReef]

Whoops, yes I meant high for the Ca. I guess I only thought you would need to dose an aquarium for corals. What would you try to get the levels in order?

No. Changing parameters is not necessary for fish and is just a waste of time and resources that might stress your fish unnecessarily. The fish don’t need “perfect pH, alk, calcium or magnesium to be healthy and happy. Chasing numbers can produce stress for no benefit except you can brag that you have great numbers.

 

[FortyAloha]

No. Changing parameters is not necessary for fish and is just a waste of time and resources that might stress your fish unnecessarily. The fish don’t need “perfect pH, alk, calcium or magnesium to be healthy and happy. Chasing numbers can produce stress for no benefit except you can brag that you have great numbers.

Makes sense! I do want to add coral eventually. Or as soon as the system allows! Maybe I should focus on getting the fish in safely and leveling out before worrying about the parameters that don't matter to fish as much?

 

[FortyAloha]

Hanna CA and MG testers are junk, the sample size is too small to read consistently, and they both read high. Both sit on my work table not doing anything. Got fooled on those three. However the Alk, nitrate and phosphate work great, week over week, year over year.

Their phosphate checker IMO is the super star in their line as, at least for me, I have trouble discerning minute colour changes less than .25ppm and I do spend much time wanting more like .05-.1ppm. Other tests read either .25ppm or looks clear so I guess, zero, zero being a terrible number as it may invite pest type stuff.

I would set up a worksheet to record findings.
Resist reacting quickly to results, look for trends, and manage those with the intent to get to a point whereas each one has the smallest flux possible.

When you provide this type of water chemistry, the tank matures faster in the development of micro good guy algae and bacteria. These are the true CUC but for the most part, go site unseen.

The population and diversity of these unseen hero’s is the back bone of great systems.

Monitor trends rather than react to individual tests, got it! Its hard not to want to chase fhe numbers for sure lol. What tests do you recommend for Ca & MG? Also, what do you use for ph?

 

[TacticalBacon]

I finally received all of my Hanna testers & spent a good amount of time getting readings, and this is where we're at with a 2 week old 13.5 gallon tank. Fish in cycled with 1 chunk live rock & One & only. PS, I did the first 30% water change yesterday.

• Salinity: 1.026 sg with calibrated refractometer & 1.024 on a calibrated Hanna digital salinity tester. (why the difference?)
• Temp: 77.5, usually right around 78
• pH: 7.65 - LOW if my HM digital reader is correctly calibrated (stated to be calibrated in the box)
• Calcium: 600ppm LOW
• Alkalinity: 6.8 dKH LOW
• Magnesium: 1370 - in range
• Nitrate: 9.1 ppm
• Nitrite: .1776 ppm (after converting from ppb & nitrate nitrogen & nitrate ion measurement)
• Ammonia: .21 total ammonia, or .0037 NH3 - much lower than previous tests

For those experienced reefers, what do these numbers tell you? I had already assumed the nitrogen cycle was ready for another fish, but why is my pH, Calcium & Alk low if I don't have any corals consuming? Should I be dosing this tank already? My ph went up slightly after the water change from 7.57.

Happy Reefing!

My Hanna tester is consistently lower than refractometer readings. Usually by point 1-2.

Drives me nuts but I use the Hanna for a quick check and then double check with the refractometer.

I don’t have experience with the others.

 

[FortyAloha]

My Hanna tester is consistently lower than refractometer readings. Usually by point 1-2.

Drives me nuts but I use the Hanna for a quick check and then double check with the refractometer.

I don’t have experience with the others.

Super weird, I would think the refractometer should be the one that is more accurate?

 

[ScottJ]

Whoops, yes I meant high for the Ca. I guess I only thought you would need to dose an aquarium for corals. What would you try to get the levels in order?

You can manage that tank with a 1 or 2 gallon water change every week or two.

Monitor trends rather than react to individual tests, got it! Its hard not to want to chase fhe numbers for sure lol. What tests do you recommend for Ca & MG? Also, what do you use for ph?

For Ca, Salfert. I don't bother testing for Mg.

 

[TacticalBacon]

Super weird, I would think the refractometer should be the one that is more accurate?

It is. Sorry if I wasn’t clear. The Hanna is always lower. I did the same sample at lfs, refracrometer, that cheap-o fill up thing, and all were the same except for the Hanna.

 

[FortyAloha]

It is. Sorry if I wasn’t clear. The Hanna is always lower. I did the same sample at lfs, refracrometer, that cheap-o fill up thing, and all were the same except for the Hanna.

Weird, I guess my assumption of Hanna being the best brand wasnt true in all cases. Not to mention, they shipped me a bad phosphate checker.

 

[Uncle99]

Monitor trends rather than react to individual tests, got it! Its hard not to want to chase fhe numbers for sure lol. What tests do you recommend for Ca & MG? Also, what do you use for ph?

I’ve never tested PH ever as most tests don’t do a great job on the moving PH target. PH is fine in virtually all normal reef tank settings. If you have good water movement, your PH is just fine.

Salifert and Aquaforest I’ve used for CA and MG, it’s easy to use and the colour change from pink to blue is easy to see.

 

[FortyAloha]

I’ve never tested PH ever as most tests don’t do a great job on the moving PH target. PH is fine in virtually all normal reef tank settings. If you have good water movement, your PH is just fine.

Salifert and Aquaforest I’ve used for CA and MG, it’s easy to use and the colour change from pink to blue is easy to see.

Awesome, appreciate the advice!

 

[Uncle99]

Weird, I guess my assumption of Hanna being the best brand wasnt true in all cases. Not to mention, they shipped me a bad phosphate checker.

Yup done that one too!

Their colour meter comes in real handy when the colour change is very very tiny like phosphate. So here, I give them a 10!

Their MG and CA would be more accurate if the sample size was bigger. 1ml exactly is hard to achieve even with that pen thing they include now.
The result is readings that are inconsistent.

 

[exnisstech]

Salinity: 1.026 sg with calibrated refractometer & 1.024 on a calibrated Hanna digital salinity tester. (why the difference?)

I'm on my second Hanna salinity tester. Both read 0.002 low if I calibrate using their calibration solution. The only way I can get them to read accurately is to calibrate them with a saltwater solution of 1. 026 verified with a TM hydrometer.

I wouldn't even worry about pH this early in the game. Once you start getting into stoney corals and seeking faster growth maybe revisit that.