Puffer fish dead within 24 hours, all others are sick.

[eelman]

Paraguard has a poor track record against marine ich, but it works well for freshwater ich.

Paraguard has a poor track record against marine ich, but it works well for freshwater i I’m

I went to a different store today and they also “confirmed

I’m surprised you’re saying it’s ich. Have you seen the last video ? The fish is literally covered in white dust. I thought you said in other posts if the spots were too many to count , it wasn’t ich ?

To me it looks like velvet but I am certainly not the expert.

Visually, the sailfin 100% has ich. There could be another disease as well in the tank, but the distinct spots and lack of rapid breathing point only to Cryptocaryon. Velvet presents as not eating, very rapid breathing, and hanging in the water currents. At the end of an infection, there can be skin congestion that could be termed "dust-like", but fish will often die before that stage.

I don't recall saying that if the spots were too numerous to count, then it is velvet (Amyloodinium). That is a hallmark of late stage ich though. Across the Internet, people confuse late stage ich with velvet. Part of the issue is that freshwater velvet (Oodinium) DOES create distinctive small spots, but that is a different species. Interestingly, if you read that fish with marine velvet should be kept in dim tanks during treatment, then you know the writer has confused the two species. Freshwater velvet is photosynthetic, so limiting light helps. Marine velvet is not, so the lights don't matter.

Velvet is much rarer than ich. Coppersafe works well against both, but because of the eel in this case, I suggested hyposalinity. Hypo does NOT work against velvet though.

Jay

Sailfin is down

Niger is only one left is there anything I can do at this point?

 

[eelman]

Visually, the sailfin 100% has ich. There could be another disease as well in the tank, but the distinct spots and lack of rapid breathing point only to Cryptocaryon. Velvet presents as not eating, very rapid breathing, and hanging in the water currents. At the end of an infection, there can be skin congestion that could be termed "dust-like", but fish will often die before that stage.

I don't recall saying that if the spots were too numerous to count, then it is velvet (Amyloodinium). That is a hallmark of late stage ich though. Across the Internet, people confuse late stage ich with velvet. Part of the issue is that freshwater velvet (Oodinium) DOES create distinctive small spots, but that is a different species. Interestingly, if you read that fish with marine velvet should be kept in dim tanks during treatment, then you know the writer has confused the two species. Freshwater velvet is photosynthetic, so limiting light helps. Marine velvet is not, so the lights don't matter.

Velvet is much rarer than ich. Coppersafe works well against both, but because of the eel in this case, I suggested hyposalinity. Hypo does NOT work against velvet though.

Jay

Trigger had no white spots of last night unless they show differently and after just looking at it, he’s got a very short amount of time left.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Trigger had no white spots of last night unless they show differently and after just looking at it, he’s got a very short amount of time left.

What treatment have you used so far?

 

[eelman]

Here are updates

 

[eelman]

What treatment have you used so far?

I started with rodi dip

Then I did a day in prazi and metro plex

Then I did Paraguard

Turned the heat

Now trying hyposalinity

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I started with rodi dip

Then I did a day in prazi and metro plex

Then I did Paraguard

Turned the heat

Now trying hyposalinity

As you said, the eel looks fine. Eels are highly resistant to ich, as said, but they are as prone to velvet as other fish.

The trigger is moribund and won't likely survive - sorry. It has apparent ich spots on it, but it is also breathing fast. The ich infection alone isn't severe and shouldn't be causing that fast of breathing. You likely have two disease in play here.

What did you raise the water temperature up to? That is old advice, stemming from freshwater ich, it can actually make things worse in marine aquariums. What salinity are you at now?

 

[eelman]

As you said, the eel looks fine. Eels are highly resistant to ich, as said, but they are as prone to velvet as other fish.

The trigger is moribund and won't likely survive - sorry. It has apparent ich spots on it, but it is also breathing fast. The ich infection alone isn't severe and shouldn't be causing that fast of breathing. You likely have two disease in play here.

What did you raise the water temperature up to? That is old advice, stemming from freshwater ich, it can actually make things worse in marine aquariums. What salinity are you at now?

It’s only at 75F currently the trigger has passed, almost looks like the skin rotted off overnight, same with the tang.

The eel is the last one standing and eating extremely well.

If not velvet the ich + what could cause that? The trigger was eating last night at 2 am. I’ve never had something completely wipe my tank before.

Went ahead and purchased a Hanna nitrate tester and nitrate are 31 in the 75 gallon and 24 in the quarantine.

All inverts are in perfect health including two starfish.

Can quarantining promising eliminate this in the future?

Had 100 fish in fresh and absolutely never had this issue.

Strange.

Thanks again for the time

 

[SudzFD]

Thank you for taking the time to write that up.

Few concerns are the eel, I heard copper is hard on them? Currently shows no signs of any velvet, although I had a green moray go down 2 months ago to it.

Puffer was swimming very lethargic jolting side to side before it passed.

Sailfin still eats and bullies fish.

Lionfish is laying on bottom not eating

Triggerfish is unharmed.

Would dosing the tank tonight before moving with metroplex and prazi do any good? About 80 hermits and a a fighter conch in there as well.

What to do about the eel? If he doesn’t have and signs should he be moved to a quarantine with fish that do? With copper treatment?

Thanks again

What did you do after the eel died two months ago? Did fish remain in the tank?

 

[SudzFD]

Due to the eels thick slime coat, he may never show symptoms but could give it back to your fish once you move them back.

Basically a very low infection that is asymptomatic but still able to be transferred to fish still that are a lot more susceptible.

Unfortunately not all places use nets to catch fish and instead do unethical things.

Yes this is your problem. Your first eel died, if any fish remained in the tank they carried the disease or if fish were added soon after they can carry it. Once the disease takes hold they rapidly perish.

The disease will remain in your tank as long as a fish is in there including your eel. You need to leave your tank fish less for 60 days do the disease can die off without a host animal.

 

[Peair]

Hello everyone,

I lost a porcupine puffer, had him for roughly 2 months with tessellata eel in a 75 gallon grow out, he was doing great eating like crazy then I introduced a sailfin tang, volitan lion and niger trigger. Last week I introduced a powder brown tang and everything went south. Powder brown died within 2 days, Everything is now sick, except the eel and the niger. I will post videos below for anyone to see.

The puffer didn’t last 24 hours, the lion fish is in real bad shape.

Water parameters are no ammonia, no nitrite and 35 nitrate was do for water change tomorrow nothing obvious.

Went to my local shop and they thought it was irritation from the eel burrowing and the return head facing downwards causing the fish to produce slime coat.

Tried giving them a rodi bath for 5 minutes, then quarantined the puffer and he didn’t last 24 hours.

What do you guys think it is? What is my next step?

Can this be in the water? Can this get the eel? That’s my boy.

Should I treat the whole tank with prazi pro and metroplex? I figured everything has been exposed

Thanks in advance

Sorry to here about your loss, something cause this and we need to find out what because it happened too quick, I almost had this problem a couple weeks ago, I added more aquascape to my reef, and I used two little fishes putty and glue to hold underwater the rock, and then one hour later all my corals were retracting and fish looking sick, I immediately did a 50% water change, and one hour later the corals and fish looked 99% better, so I found the problem, and you can to, it's usually some kind of chemical put into the tank, or worse yet disease brought in, but a big water change done early helped me, and in your case it can buy you time so you can look at your options, seek advice from experts, and fix the problem.