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franx

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I started a 125 gallon soft coral reef way back in 2006. About a year and a half later, I got the job opportunity of a lifetime, and my wife and I packed up and moved from New York to California so I could go be a software engineer at Google. I sold off all the rock (a hundred pounds of Fiji LR was so much cheaper back then!) and livestock (so were yellow tangs), and put the tank and equipment into storage, always intending to get back into it when I had the opportunity.

Eventually, we found our way back to New York, but the aquarium stayed in storage for a long time. In the past few years, as I've been working from home full time, I carved out a room in my basement to turn into a home office, and one wall was just the perfect spot to reboot this tank.

I wanted this to look really nice - way back when, I built a serviceable but pretty rough homemade stand that nobody would mistake for quality furniture. Since that time, I've become a pretty solid woodworker, and decided to design a nice built-in wall for the tank and some cabinets/shelves. Naturally, building that thing took the past year as a weekend warrior, but I've finally finished it an had the tank running for the past couple months now.

Here's what the whole thing looks like as of last week:

4F8CCA34-FD08-467F-859E-7B31741710EF_1_201_a.jpeg


Current livestock:
  • Two juvenile ocellaris clowns
  • Yellow watchman goby and a tiger pistol shrimp (they haven't managed to find each other yet)
  • CUC is 10 blue-legged hermits, 10 trochus snails, 10 nerite snails, 20 florida ceriths
Major equipment that I re-used from 2016:
  • The display tank itself (Most of the time it's been stored climate-controlled in a wood crate, the silicone all looked very good, and I did a month-long leak test test. There's obviously some risk here, but *fingers crossed*)
  • Sump tank: an acrylic 40 long with some DIY baffles creating areas for a fuge, skimmer, and return pump
  • Protein skimmer: a Coralife Super Skimmer that can operate either hang on back, or in-sump. I actually had it hanging on the side of the sump until it developed a crack in the bottom, so I moved in into the sump. Might get a new one at some point, but it does the job for now.
  • Return pump & heaters (they're still working fine, but I bought fresh backups because I assume these are likely to break any time)
  • A Tunze Turbelle Stream powerhead - you can see this old-style pump on the left side of the tank, with a new one on the right.
New equipment:
  • 3 Noopsyche K7 Pro III LED lights. These replace my old T5 and compact fluorescent setup, which still work fine as far as I know, but I wanted something that put out some more PAR while running a little more energy-efficient. I might try to arrange a trade if anyone still finds these old lights useful.
  • Kessil H80 fuge grow light
  • A couple new powerheads
  • A reef-pi with DIY ATO, temperature probes, and power management. I'm working on adding a pH monitor and doser.
I started with Marco rock and dry sand, did a fishless cycle before adding the clowns, and added some chaeto and copepods to the sump. There's currently a bit of green algae covering most of the rock in the DT, but it's not out of control so far. I'm actually having trouble keeping nitrates and phosphate above zero since adding the chaeto, so I've stopped running the protein skimmer for a couple days to see how that affects things.
 
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franx

franx

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It has become clear that what I had at first thought were diatoms are in fact a dinoflagellate outbreak.

2DF47DB2-49FF-4541-A45C-AF1C0FA89E4B_1_102_o.jpeg


Under a microscope, it's clear that these are dinos, and it looks like Ostreopsis specifically:

IMG_0065.jpeg


I haven't been able to keep nitrates or phosphates at levels above zero so far, and I'm guessing that's been the biggest contributor, so I have some NeoPhos and NeoNitro coming tomorrow. I'm also planning to reduce the photoperiod and dose H2O2, and see how it goes from there. I'd rather not have to install a UV sterilizer, but that's always a potential option.
 

Gumbies R Us

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It has become clear that what I had at first thought were diatoms are in fact a dinoflagellate outbreak.

2DF47DB2-49FF-4541-A45C-AF1C0FA89E4B_1_102_o.jpeg


Under a microscope, it's clear that these are dinos, and it looks like Ostreopsis specifically:

IMG_0065.jpeg


I haven't been able to keep nitrates or phosphates at levels above zero so far, and I'm guessing that's been the biggest contributor, so I have some NeoPhos and NeoNitro coming tomorrow. I'm also planning to reduce the photoperiod and dose H2O2, and see how it goes from there. I'd rather not have to install a UV sterilizer, but that's always a potential option.
Best of luck to getting rid of them!
 
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franx

franx

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Day 10 of the dino fight, and there's been a substantial improvement. They're not gone by a long shot, and some have migrated to the fuge where I'm still running a normal light schedule to keep the macroalgae healthy. But so so much better - probably 80% of it is gone.

Progress pics:
IMG_2568.jpeg

IMG_2569.jpeg

IMG_2570.jpeg

IMG_2576.jpeg

IMG_2582.jpeg


What I've done so far:
  • Stopped water changes
  • Stopped feeding reef roids
  • Reduced display tank lighting schedule from 12 hours to 6
  • Reduced lighting intensity - running the blue lights only, at about 40% intensity
  • Dosed hydrogen peroxide (1 ml per 10 gallons) at nighttime, for the first 4 days only
  • Dosed phosphate daily. It's peaking about about 0.03ppm but drops back down to 0 within 24 hours.
  • Added MicroBacter Clean daily
  • Running carbon reactor constantly, changing carbon weekly
  • Started adding phytoplankton daily over the past couple days
Planned next steps:
  • Continue with carbon reactor, MicroBacter Clean, and phyto
  • Continue dosing phosphate - targeting .1 but not trying to rush it. I figure at some point, the rocks and sand will be saturated and I won't have to add as much so I'm testing every day or two
  • Start dosing nitrate once I'm confident phosphate is stable
  • Physical removal - I bought some 5 micron filter socks to siphon through, but haven't used them yet
  • Reduce the photoperiod in the fuge a bit too

If the trend continues for the next couple weeks, I'll start ramping up lighting in the display tank and start feeding the corals again.
 
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franx

franx

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I've kept it at 79-80. I'll put that in my toolbox if/when I have to deal with dinos next time, but I'm happy to report they've been completely gone for the past couple months! If I'm guessing, it was likely increasing phosphates/nitrates that had the biggest positive effect.

I did overcorrect a bit, and nutrients wound up getting a little out of control on the high side - phosphates maxed out at .25 with nitrates at 20, and I wound up dosing GFO for a while, and unfortunately my few coral frags didn't respond well. I've managed to keep everything stable over the past 4-6 weeks though (phophates between .03 and .05, and nitrates slowly falling with water changes, currently around 12) and I'm seeing them recover and start to thrive again.

Here's the same section of the tank today, with lots of lovely new pink and purple coralline growth:
IMG_0123.JPG
 

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I've kept it at 79-80. I'll put that in my toolbox if/when I have to deal with dinos next time, but I'm happy to report they've been completely gone for the past couple months! If I'm guessing, it was likely increasing phosphates/nitrates that had the biggest positive effect.

I did overcorrect a bit, and nutrients wound up getting a little out of control on the high side - phosphates maxed out at .25 with nitrates at 20, and I wound up dosing GFO for a while, and unfortunately my few coral frags didn't respond well. I've managed to keep everything stable over the past 4-6 weeks though (phophates between .03 and .05, and nitrates slowly falling with water changes, currently around 12) and I'm seeing them recover and start to thrive again.

Here's the same section of the tank today, with lots of lovely new pink and purple coralline growth:
IMG_0123.JPG
Did u add coralline algae spores?
 

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