Seriously??? As careful as I've been with QT and I still have Ich???

[XLOR8T]

I should state- this is for copepod free algae. If it’s full of pods, tomont s can attach to their carapace and last for the 72 days of the life cycle.

First, do a really thorough wash to remove pods, or buy it pod free from ? Somewhere.

I QT’d my chaeto in coppersafe water for 3 weeks with Light and air stone. It was pale at the end but once it went in my fuge with proper nutrients it bounced back in 3-4 days. You can buy clean chaeto in the states from Algae Barn. Unfortunately they don’t ship to canada so I had to qt my own.

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Well, here's some shots of the infected tang, with the added bonus of my little suspected Typhoid Mary lurking in the background of the first picture. The cysts have faded a bit from yesterday but are still present. I am picking up a used 40w Aqua UV tonight and plumbing it tomorrow.

 

[cancun]

They rarely show obvious symptoms of ich because of their thick mucous coats (like wrasse) but both are fantastic “Typhoid Marys” because the parasite lives easily in the gills and out of sight and infects the tank with a vengeance.

That is scary....! Makes me wonder the same thing about Wrasses too as probable "typhoid Marys"......

 

[norfolkgarden]

Herbtana by MicrobeLift.

Not a true cure by a really good 'knock back'.
It does a good job reducing the problem.

I use 2 cap fulls slowly dripped into a 75 gallon tank when someone looks off or the first sign of random scraping.

Turbos will climb out of the tank for the night or close up. Trochus don't seem to be too bothered.
Hermit crabs, serpent stars, fromia star, soft corals and frogspawn don't blink.

All residents have been through half a dozen applications.

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Well, 72 hours later and the purple tang's skin is back to normal. Nothing else has shown signs of ich yet.

I have temporarily set up a 40w UV sterilizer and have it running until I can permanently plumb it in and make it look nice. I have the water inlet from the pump in the display tank near the bottom under the belief that if there are free swimming ich I'm likely to kill more from within the tank than sump. Aesthetically, though, I don't like seeing the pipe so I have to figure that one out.

Thak for all the responses.

 

[ReefWithCare]

Well, 72 hours later and the purple tang's skin is back to normal. Nothing else has shown signs of ich yet.

I have temporarily set up a 40w UV sterilizer and have it running until I can permanently plumb it in and make it look nice. I have the water inlet from the pump in the display tank near the bottom under the belief that if there are free swimming ich I'm likely to kill more from within the tank than sump. Aesthetically, though, I don't like seeing the pipe so I have to figure that one out.

Thak for all the responses.

I’m not surprised given what seemed like a mature tank. Ich is like the flu for some tangs - they just get it 1-2 times a year and just fight it off ‍

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Purple tang was seen with ich eight days ago and free of spots five days ago. Today the white tailed bristletooth tang has spots on his fins. Nothing else seems to have it. . . yet.

 

[scuzy]

It's always going to be there now. But the UV does help. I have a 57watt and it's been keeping it in control. As well as running ozone.

 

[Brian1f1]

I had it for years in my old system. Probably almost a decade. It would show on my hippo tang frequently. Rarely on my black tang, and rarely on my purple. I never had a UV system. I did use kick ick on occasion, I think it’s snake oil though. Whole system wiped when velvet hit from a fish introduction. I quit over this for a decade. I just got back in this year. I qt now. Feel your frustration, you should be [emoji108]if you feed well and keep stressors low.

 

[Reefman71]

I never thought about chaeto.... I just went 90 days fallow and just added fish including a purple tang. My God if ich got in.....