Shaving/sanding down T slot aluminum profiles

[JoJosReef]

Hi DIYers,

Ordering some profiles and wondering if I should get an extra mm or so on the length of the profiles in case there is some error in cuts (+/- ??). I'd like them to fit nicely together at exact dimensions. If a profile is 1-2mm too long, can the ends be shave/sanded down with a Dremel/diamond cutter? If not, how would you shave off the extra mm--without going out and buying super specialty equipment? Thanks!

 

[Fish Fan]

I could be wrong, but those diamond cutting wheels I think are more for cutting masonry. I was looking at those as a way to cut coral skeletons for fragging.

I can say that you can safely cut aluminum on a miter or table saw with a carbide blade:

Best Way to Cut Aluminum

I'm replacing the face of my table saw fence and purchased an aluminum extrusion: 80/20 Inc, 1030, 10 Series, 1" x 3" Extrusion x 48". This is a pretty hefty piece of metal. What blade do I use to cut it on a miter saw? Will a masonry blade mounted on a circular saw do? Do it by hand with a...

sawmillcreek.org

I hope that helps, good luck!

 

[tsharpe291]

I would definitely use a miter saw with carbide blade, going to give you the best cut
and keeping it square.

 

[Sassafras]

Not sure from your post, but if you are ordering the extrusions precut, they should be dead on in length if the supplier is worth their salt. My T-slot kits from Alufab and T-Nutz were precise and consistent. No shaving or sanding necessary. If you are making the cuts, a good miter saw, carbide blade and coolant, as described in https://www.reef2reef.com/members/fish-fan.91653/ 's link above will work well.

 

[polyppal]

Hi DIYers,

Ordering some profiles and wondering if I should get an extra mm or so on the length of the profiles in case there is some error in cuts (+/- ??). I'd like them to fit nicely together at exact dimensions. If a profile is 1-2mm too long, can the ends be shave/sanded down with a Dremel/diamond cutter? If not, how would you shave off the extra mm--without going out and buying super specialty equipment? Thanks!

A dremel isnt gonna get the job done, you’ll need a proper saw

 

[polyppal]

Not sure from your post, but if you are ordering the extrusions precut, they should be dead on in length if the supplier is worth their salt. My T-slot kits from Alufab and T-Nutz were precise and consistent. No shaving or sanding necessary. If you are making the cuts, a good miter saw, carbide blade and coolant, as described in https://www.reef2reef.com/members/fish-fan.91653/ 's link above will work well.

Yes, this is the whole reason most of us don’t cut our own bar and pay to have the suppliers do it. They should be dead on cuts from any reputable company

 

[JoJosReef]

I am ordering them cut to the mm. Just thinking that my measurements could be off by +/- 1. I used a standard tape measure and a vinyl tape measure, but... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

So far the cuts in my shopping basket are the expected lengths, not +/- mm, so will just stick with that. Don't have a miter or saw table, so fingers crossed!

P.s., currently shopping at Zyltech.

 

[Sassafras]

Not sure from your post, but if you are getting your extrusions pre-cut, they should be exactly the size you order, if the supplier is worth their salt. I have ordered pre-cut from Alufab, FramingTech and T-Nutz, and all were dead on precise and exactly consistent in size. If you are doing the cutting yourself, a good miter saw, carbide blade and coolant/lubricant as described in Fish Fan's link above should work well.

Sorry for the repost, folks replied while I was editing to add FramingTech as a third supplier I've used.

 

[Brisk]

I used an orbital sander.

 

[lbacha]

I would reach out to Alufab, they fabricated a stand for me to my exact dimensions and the cost was cheaper than if I ordered the aluminum and hardware from t-nutz or from 80/20. I sized my stand 1/8" larger than my tank dimensions to ensure the tank didn't overhang the stand at all and it all came together flawlessly (it was a big stand 96.125" x 30.125" x 42" tall.

You need to have boring work done for many of the hardware options (the hardware that needs this is a much better option than just using corner hardware). In this case you can't trim the peices after the fact or the hardware won't work correctly. Having said that you can cut 80/20 with a normal miter saw and an old blade (don't need carbide or coolant since it isn't hardened aluminum)

 

[Jimbo327]

The aluminum lengths will be very precise if you are ordering to length. Will not be off by 1mm. I don't think you need to worry about it.

 

[JoJosReef]

I would reach out to Alufab, they fabricated a stand for me to my exact dimensions and the cost was cheaper than if I ordered the aluminum and hardware from t-nutz or from 80/20. I sized my stand 1/8" larger than my tank dimensions to ensure the tank didn't overhang the stand at all and it all came together flawlessly (it was a big stand 96.125" x 30.125" x 42" tall.

Not a complete stand. Just adding an internal brace to a plywood stand. Adding horizontal profiles under the top wood panel of the stand.

 

[lbacha]

Not a complete stand. Just adding an internal brace to a plywood stand. Adding horizontal profiles under the top wood panel of the stand.

Got ya, as others said a miter saw will work best and you don't have to go crazy on the blade since the aluminum isn't super hard. A finish blade is best but you can cut it with any blade as long as you go slow. I have cut different profiles with a 60 tooth finish blade before. If you are going to be making alot fo cuts then carbide will keep it sharp longer.