Water Quality

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CodyF.

CodyF.

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I’d ignore the silicate. Only drawback to high silicate is diatom growth, and if that’s not a problem, then there’s no concern.
Thanks Randy.

Additional questions; do you think it’s better to dose Nitrate & Phosphate, or keep using ReefRoids?

What calibration fluid should I use for my refractomometer? Lastly, do you think I should switch to Moonshiners? Vs Tripic Marin A&K and additional traces?
 

StewL6

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Since it was a ATI ICP they also did your RO/DI water what was the results of that? Also do you have a mix station if yes then consider doing a ICP on your mix station. Need to find where it deviates from a pure RO/DI water and reef crystals mix. Reef Crystals is the IO red bag and the purple bag is regular IO. The Red reef Crystals has added Calcium , Magnesium and has higher Alk plus I find that it has higher trace elements. The purple bag is just generic saltwater mix without the added elements and closer to regular sea water.
 
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CodyF.

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Since it was a ATI ICP they also did your RO/DI water what was the results of that? Also do you have a mix station if yes then consider doing a ICP on your mix station. Need to find where it deviates from a pure RO/DI water and reef crystals mix. Reef Crystals is the IO red bag and the purple bag is regular IO. The Red reef Crystals has added Calcium , Magnesium and has higher Alk plus I find that it has higher trace elements. The purple bag is just generic saltwater mix without the added elements and closer to regular sea water.
Stew, thanks for the info. Very helpful!

I ran two ICPs, ATI & Fauna Marin, both checking my tank water and top off/mixing water. Both results came back negative for everything. (Both tests are attached, one via link the other as PDF).

I do not have a mixing station, I do not dose Bromine or magnesium. And those are also sky high.

About a week ago I started dosing A&K, I think that has Bromine in it, but it was high before I started dosing Tropic Marin.

My tank looks good, corals are nice and happy. Color could be better, but it has good coloration.

I’m not really stressed about it. I’ve only been feeding for a few years. But I’ve learned to just take things slow. I’ll get it sorted out. I’m really just looking for guidance and knowledge.
 
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CodyF.

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* reefing for a few years*

Im more concerned with the SG being off. I read Randy's article about making homemade calibration fluid/solution, unfortunately all I have is Himalayan sea salt.

I just tested both refrac. testers I have with tap water. Zero'd them and then tested my water, both tested my tanks SG at 1.026 and 1.0255.
 
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CodyF.

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Figured out my magnesium issue. Mixed up some saltwater for a water change, Instant Ocean. ( thought it was the purple, but I remember switching due to magnesium test months ago) Anyways, the orange bucket, freshly mixed saltwater is I’ll the chart for magnesium. I’m not sure it’s Instant Ocean & Reef Crystals both have quality escapes? I’ve been using both salts for years, off and on. This is the 1st tank I have had issues. And it’s been since day one. About 3 buckets in total.

What salts mix do you guys use? I’m thinking of tropic Marin possibly. (If I don’t go moonshiners)
 

seahuy

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Hi, i recently had high bromine on my ICP from fauna and got this analyst help from Frag Farm

- Bromine is high, this is the hallmark of a tank that is getting large amounts of kalkwasser, or high pH dosing.. The bromine accumulation is most likely due to inefficient photosynthesis.

I think this could be valid as my recent dosing of kalk remained high even tho my corals went through a stress phased but im not expert on these things
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Hi, i recently had high bromine on my ICP from fauna and got this analyst help from Frag Farm

- Bromine is high, this is the hallmark of a tank that is getting large amounts of kalkwasser, or high pH dosing.. The bromine accumulation is most likely due to inefficient photosynthesis.

I think this could be valid as my recent dosing of kalk remained high even tho my corals went through a stress phased but im not expert on these things

How high?

Moderately high bromide is not likely a problem, but are you dosing any?

I am not aware of any reason to be concerned about high pH and photosynthesis, nor any reason to associate high bromide with high pH.

Bromide is a major contaminant in many sources of calcium chloride.
 

seahuy

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How high?

Moderately high bromide is not likely a problem, but are you dosing any?

I am not aware of any reason to be concerned about high pH and photosynthesis, nor any reason to associate high bromide with high pH.

Bromide is a major contaminant in many sources of calcium chloride.
Here's my analysis https://lab.faunamarin.de/en/share/analysis/151454

Its only in the yellow as far as bromide is concerned.

:face-with-spiral-eyes: Many things to fix here but I just recently found the source of the tin leak, and I believe the high Aluminum was due to bad advice of using phosgaurd to remove the tin. After researching and saw your warning on the aluminum oxide used by phosgaurd leaking aluminum i believe thats the source.

I think my ICP should be better next few tests and should confirm my tin/aluminum source.


Also thanks for the potassium chloride recommendation, i was researching how to get my potassium level up and landed on this thread.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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That bromide is perfectly fine. Reiterating the potassium, the potassium is too low and I’d look to boost it. Food grade potassium chloride from Now foods/I herb is a good choice.
 

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