What silicate to dose?

Notsolostfish

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I have amphidium dinos covering my whole sand brown color super ugly, i identified it under the microscope what type of salicate i can dose? And would it mess with my phosphate reading or alk?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I recommend standard water glass.

 

Garf

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For what it's worth, I add a ml a week of sodium silicate in a 60 gallon assuming some stuff needs it. No adverse effects to report.
 
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Notsolostfish

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I recommend standard water glass.

I heard that dosing standard water glass messed with alk? How true is that? And phosphate. Like it creates alk swings?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I heard that dosing standard water glass messed with alk? How true is that? And phosphate. Like it creates alk swings?

All silicate dosing adds alk. It’s like adding bicarbonate. No way to add it without adding alk.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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What should i do? How do i do it without alk swings?

That’s not much of concern. The alk rise on dosing 1 ppm sio2 is very small, only 0.05 dKH.
 
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Notsolostfish

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That’s not much of concern. The alk rise on dosing 1 ppm sio2 is very small, only 0.05 dKH.
How much should i be dosing for 150G total water volume randy? For the product u linked? And is it daily? And do i need to test silicate or not? Also one last question for you. Would it mess with phosphate testing?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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How much should i be dosing for 150G total water volume randy? For the product u linked? And is it daily? And do i need to test silicate or not? Also one last question for you. Would it mess with phosphate testing?

Dose is very noncritical. Diatoms will just use whatever you add.

This is my general recommendation for routine dosing, and maybe do it a little more often if one is trying to defeat dinos.


How much and what to dose?
I’d suggest dosing sodium silicate solution, as it is a readily soluble form of silica. It is very inexpensive. I initially used a high quality laboratory grade, but I’d expect the bulk grades sold to the world at large to be good enough (and I use it now). Remember, you aren’t dosing much, and the solutions available are very concentrated. You may find “water glass’ in certain stores because it is used by consumers for things like preserving eggs. Buying chemicals can be problematic for many people, however, and this hobby chemistry store sells to individuals. Ten dollars (+ shipping) gets you enough to last 150 years of dosing with a 100-gallon tank, so cost is not an issue. I just ordered some from them myself and it came broken open, unfortunately. Some of you may have gotten Christmas presents that had ¾ of a gallon of sodium silicate solution coating them as they passed my package in the mail. Nevertheless, I
still have enough for several years!).

Many “water glass” or sodium silicate solutions are sold with the concentration indicated by “° Baume”. Degrees Baume is a measure of the specific gravity, and values in the 40’s are typical of these concentrated solutions. A concentration of 41° Baume equates to 29% SiO2 by weight. Note that the density is high (1.38 g/mL for 41° Baume), so volume measurements should take this into account. Maybe eventually, some of the hobby supplement manufacturers will provide a supplement.

Safety note: Sodium Silicate solution is very basic (high pH). In fact, the pH can be substantially higher than limewater, so it is very corrosive to tissue and to metal devices. Be careful to not spill it on yourself, wear some eye protection, and if you spill it on something metal, wash it. In all cases, extensive washing with water is recommended in case of spills or exposure.

Based on my dosing experience, aquarists are probably safe dosing the equivalent of 17 uM (1 ppm SiO2) once every 1-2 weeks. That is based on the fact that my tank used that much in less than 4 days without having any sort of “bad” reaction. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with starting at a tenth of that and ramping up. And, of course, if you do get too much in the way of diatoms, just back off on the dosing. I presume that all that I added to my tank went into various organisms that us it (sponges, diatoms, etc), but perhaps I have more sponges than other aquarists, and diatoms consequently may be more of a concern in some tanks than in mine.

I’d also advise occasionally checking the soluble silica concentration in the water, in case the demand in your tank is substantially less than mine. If the concentration started to rise above 50 uM (3 ppm SiO2), even in the absence of diatoms, I’d probably reduce the dose rate because that is close to the maximum concentration that surface seawater ever attains.

Here’s how to determine dosing amounts. I’ll assume that you want 17 uM (1 ppm SiO2) dosing, and you can scale from there. If the concentration of the supplement is 29% silica by weight (41° Baume), then it is 290,000 ppm silica. To get to 1 ppm silica, you then need to dilute by 290,000 fold. If you add 1.3 grams of this supplement (0.96 mL) to a tank with 100 gallons (378,500 mL), then the final concentration will be about 17 uM (1 ppm SiO2). I’d disperse the concentrated silicate solution into some fresh water before adding it to the tank, and then add it to a high flow area. Because the pH is high, you likely will see some cloudiness that is mostly magnesium hydroxide. The magnesium hydroxide will dissolve without a problem, but to be safe, add the supplement in a high flow area.
 
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Notsolostfish

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Dose is very noncritical. Diatoms will just use whatever you add.

This is my general recommendation for routine dosing, and maybe do it a little more often if one is trying to defeat dinos.


How much and what to dose?
I’d suggest dosing sodium silicate solution, as it is a readily soluble form of silica. It is very inexpensive. I initially used a high quality laboratory grade, but I’d expect the bulk grades sold to the world at large to be good enough (and I use it now). Remember, you aren’t dosing much, and the solutions available are very concentrated. You may find “water glass’ in certain stores because it is used by consumers for things like preserving eggs. Buying chemicals can be problematic for many people, however, and this hobby chemistry store sells to individuals. Ten dollars (+ shipping) gets you enough to last 150 years of dosing with a 100-gallon tank, so cost is not an issue. I just ordered some from them myself and it came broken open, unfortunately. Some of you may have gotten Christmas presents that had ¾ of a gallon of sodium silicate solution coating them as they passed my package in the mail. Nevertheless, I
still have enough for several years!).

Many “water glass” or sodium silicate solutions are sold with the concentration indicated by “° Baume”. Degrees Baume is a measure of the specific gravity, and values in the 40’s are typical of these concentrated solutions. A concentration of 41° Baume equates to 29% SiO2 by weight. Note that the density is high (1.38 g/mL for 41° Baume), so volume measurements should take this into account. Maybe eventually, some of the hobby supplement manufacturers will provide a supplement.

Safety note: Sodium Silicate solution is very basic (high pH). In fact, the pH can be substantially higher than limewater, so it is very corrosive to tissue and to metal devices. Be careful to not spill it on yourself, wear some eye protection, and if you spill it on something metal, wash it. In all cases, extensive washing with water is recommended in case of spills or exposure.

Based on my dosing experience, aquarists are probably safe dosing the equivalent of 17 uM (1 ppm SiO2) once every 1-2 weeks. That is based on the fact that my tank used that much in less than 4 days without having any sort of “bad” reaction. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with starting at a tenth of that and ramping up. And, of course, if you do get too much in the way of diatoms, just back off on the dosing. I presume that all that I added to my tank went into various organisms that us it (sponges, diatoms, etc), but perhaps I have more sponges than other aquarists, and diatoms consequently may be more of a concern in some tanks than in mine.

I’d also advise occasionally checking the soluble silica concentration in the water, in case the demand in your tank is substantially less than mine. If the concentration started to rise above 50 uM (3 ppm SiO2), even in the absence of diatoms, I’d probably reduce the dose rate because that is close to the maximum concentration that surface seawater ever attains.

Here’s how to determine dosing amounts. I’ll assume that you want 17 uM (1 ppm SiO2) dosing, and you can scale from there. If the concentration of the supplement is 29% silica by weight (41° Baume), then it is 290,000 ppm silica. To get to 1 ppm silica, you then need to dilute by 290,000 fold. If you add 1.3 grams of this supplement (0.96 mL) to a tank with 100 gallons (378,500 mL), then the final concentration will be about 17 uM (1 ppm SiO2). I’d disperse the concentrated silicate solution into some fresh water before adding it to the tank, and then add it to a high flow area. Because the pH is high, you likely will see some cloudiness that is mostly magnesium hydroxide. The magnesium hydroxide will dissolve without a problem, but to be safe, add the supplement in a high flow area.
according to macks reed for dinos on facebook they are recommending me to dose for wold 2ML a day does that sound safe to fight dinos? for 150G
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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according to macks reed for dinos on facebook they are recommending me to dose for wold 2ML a day does that sound safe to fight dinos? for 150G

That will certainly drive diatoms. It seems reasonable to me. One can always stop it any time, the diatoms will use up what was added, and then will fade back as other organisms take over.
 
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Notsolostfish

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That will certainly drive diatoms. It seems reasonable to me. One can always stop it any time, the diatoms will use up what was added, and then will fade back as other organisms take over.
Do i need to turn off my UV when dosing silicate to drive diatoms
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Do i need to turn off my UV when dosing silicate to drive diatoms

It might help, but you want diatoms growing on the surfaces where dinos are, not so much in the water.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Can you elaborate how? Source?

 

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