15 Alk too high?

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GpixL_

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If you have 60 psi water pressure (typical) and the tube is 1/4" OD (~1/8" ID), pushing the water at a rate of 2 gph up 20 ft is not a problem. It will be an inconvenience for a day to have the tubing running through the house, but you will have no issue slowing down the water production. Just tell everyone in the house "Don't touch the tube!!" and use a clamp to hold it in the tank (or it will inevitably flip out of the tank).

For emptying I would get that Sicce micra plus pump and some 1/2" vinyl tubing. Run it to the nearest drain (bathroom, kitchen, etc) will take about 20 min to empty the tank.

So much easier than buckets... and so much less of a mess!
I see what you mean but the tube I would get is like 60 ft. And cant leave the door open. Like if the water is coming out in a rate of 2 gallons per hour then there is barely water running through the tube. Then when the tank fills up, there is 60ft worth of water in the tube. Plus its not only 20ft it would be 60ft.
 

Jon's Reef

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I see what you mean but the tube I would get is like 60 ft. And cant leave the door open. Like if the water is coming out in a rate of 2 gallons per hour then there is barely water running through the tube. Then when the tank fills up, there is 60ft worth of water in the tube. Plus its not only 20ft it would be 60ft.
60 ft of hose, 0.125" inner diameter = ~200 ml of water in the full 60 ft length
 

BrotatoSalad

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Is there any chance you can just cancel the order you placed for the fish and corals? That’ll give you some time to get your tank in order and save money for any additional purchases.
 
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Is there any chance you can just cancel the order you placed for the fish and corals? That’ll give you some time to get your tank in order and save money for any additional purchases.
Yeah I stopped the fish one and Ill tell the guy for the corals that I cant take it for now. Getting Bioballs and such from him.
 

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Huh so this shows up at 1.029 or
This has got to be one of the most frustrating threads I've read in some time. It starts off with someone giving the OP terrible advice, then it progresses to OP using tap water and so on.
I'm not one for mincing words, so don't take any of this with a mean tone:
1. Get an RODI system.
2. Get refractometer calibration solution, GOOD test kits (or Hanna eggs).
3. Fill a new garbage can with RODI water. Add pump and heater and salt and let mix. Heat to 78 degrees. Salt to 35ppt.
4. Drain current setup.
5. Fill current setup with newly mixed water.
6. Add your favorite bottled bacteria and a piece of live rock. Add a food source.
7. Monitor ammonia and nitrites.
8. Allow cycle to continue and complete.
9. During cycling, read and educate yourself on owning a SW tank.
10. Once you're done reading and watching videos, do it again.
11. Verify cycle has completed by testing for 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites.
12. Promise to never say "But my LFS is 30 mins away..." ever again.
13. Enjoy success by slowly adding things.
Hahah thank you! just what I said 8 hours ago and we most here were thinking it. Well said!
 

Willb25

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@GpixL_ , there is no way that your ALK is 16 or 15 if you're using Instant Ocean and it is mixed correctly to a salinity of around 34-35 ppt (1.023-1.027). You really need to take your water to a trusted LFS and have them test it for you. If your LFS is the one trying to sell you a coral with bio-balls instead of cycled live rock, I would avoid that LFS.

Your tank is new, and you have a choice. You can either decide now to be patient and

@GpixL_ , there is no way that your ALK is 16 or 15 if you're using Instant Ocean and it is mixed correctly to a salinity of around 34-35 ppt (1.023-1.027). You really need to take your water to a trusted LFS and have them test it for you. If your LFS is the one trying to sell you a coral with bio-balls instead of cycled live rock, I would avoid that LFS.

Your tank is new, and you have a choice. You can either decide now to be patient and take your time, or you can spend a lot of extra cash chasing problems that are created by rushing.

You do need to keep the surface of the water agitated. High ALK DOES NOT create oxygen in a system. Surface agitation allows gas exchange in your tank.
 

homer1475

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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Randy Holmes-Farley

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I presume you are pointing out this sentence, which is completely and utterly incorrect:

"KH is also reduced by the action of nitrifying bacteria and by water surface agitation."

There is zero basis in fact for agitation to alter alkalinity, and I'm surprised that didn't get edited out.

It's a poster child for not believing everything on the internet.
 

homer1475

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I presume you are pointing out this sentence, which is completely and utterly incorrect:

"KH is also reduced by the action of nitrifying bacteria and by water surface agitation."

There is zero basis in fact for agitation to alter alkalinity, and I'm surprised that didn't get edited out.

It's a poster child for not believing everything on the internet.
That wiki, or rather that page, can be edited by anyone. Should also tell you it's rife with bad info.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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That wiki, or rather that page, can be edited by anyone. Should also tell you it's rife with bad info.

Yes, I just edited it to remove the offending sentence.
 

homer1475

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Yes, I just edited it to remove the offending sentence.
Ooh your no fun! I added that to see if one could edit it without anyone looking at it first. Purposely wanted it to be offensive, just to find out.
 

thatmanMIKEson

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FWIW, the highlighted section of text is not accurate for seawater. Adding borax boosts total alkalinity.
I was only trying to figure out where that agitation on the water surface lowering alk came from, I assumed something like that was the inspiration for that. I know it to be mythology
 

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