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my cbs also pinched and ripped off polyps. Also, the the wave maker was too close.and you initially thought it was a joke....
This is not why your duncan died, they're perfectly happy surviving on light alone, they're mainly a photosynthetic creature (as are most coral). The occasional zooplankton and phytoplankton broadcast can be beneficial, but not required for survival...
That's different from "The CBS was stealing its food" and *could* be the cause, but honestly... LA's tap water is full of stuff I wouldn't ever want to have in my tanks... you can continue doing what you're doing, but at some point, if you have a problem, and everything else has been exhausted, you're probably going to have to remember that you've got contaminants in your system that are not present in 99.999% of reefs out there because the use of RO/DI water, and at the very least distilled water (typically only in rare emergency cases), are the norm within the hobby... I would urge you to take a look at the tables of your water quality provided by your government, the addition of copper over time alone would be enough to make me say, nope...:my cbs also pinched and ripped off polyps. Also, the the wave maker was too close.
That’s really helpful input for people who don’t have pristine water like you
I have tested the water from the sink and it is super close to to water parameters.That's different from "The CBS was stealing its food" and *could* be the cause, but honestly... LA's tap water is full of stuff I wouldn't ever want to have in my tanks... you can continue doing what you're doing, but at some point, if you have a problem, and everything else has been exhausted, you're probably going to have to remember that you've got contaminants in your system that are not present in 99.999% of reefs out there because the use of RO/DI water, and at the very least distilled water (typically only in rare emergency cases), are the norm within the hobby... I would urge you to take a look at the tables of your water quality provided by your government, the addition of copper over time alone would be enough to make me say, nope...:
Why not just post a pic of your actual tank and not something you bogarted from the internet?? Here's yours... quite a difference!
I sure hope not!I have tested the water from the sink and it is super close to to water parameters.
You have tested Nitrate, Phosphate, Ammonia, Nitrite, pH, Calcium, Magnesium, and Alkalinity, right? Those are the parameters we monitor AFTER knowing the source of our water, which is typically RO/DI water + Salt Mix = Water Composition.I have tested the water from the sink and it is super close to to water parameters.
So many things wrong with this commentI just bought carbon, ro membrane and sediment filters off TEMU! Put it all in and got 0 tds on 2 separate TDS checkers
FYI... The vast majority of L.A. county isn't under LADWP's jurisdiction. That link covers the City of Los Angeles only.That's different from "The CBS was stealing its food" and *could* be the cause, but honestly... LA's tap water is full of stuff I wouldn't ever want to have in my tanks... you can continue doing what you're doing, but at some point, if you have a problem, and everything else has been exhausted, you're probably going to have to remember that you've got contaminants in your system that are not present in 99.999% of reefs out there because the use of RO/DI water, and at the very least distilled water (typically only in rare emergency cases), are the norm within the hobby... I would urge you to take a look at the tables of your water quality provided by your government, the addition of copper over time alone would be enough to make me say, nope...:
Your working too hard trying to rationalize this with the guy that just digs a hole deeper and deeper. Your energy is much better spent not wasting it on this thread.You have tested Nitrate, Phosphate, Ammonia, Nitrite, pH, Calcium, Magnesium, and Alkalinity, right? Those are the parameters we monitor AFTER knowing the source of our water, which is typically RO/DI water + Salt Mix = Water Composition.
You did not check for chlorine, chloramine, fluoride, iron, copper, boron, uranium, and the 50 or so other chemicals that your city deems acceptable for drinking water/use to treat tap water and what those levels are... Otherwise, you'd have probably thought twice about it... I gave a link in my last reply that has a PDF, about 7-10 pages in on that PDF you start to see tables, find where your water comes from in LA, look at the columns for your tables, and then tell me if you want those things in your reef... Especially copper. As you continually put it into your system, and it has no way to get out of it, the level of copper always rises, and copper kills invertebrates...
Don't take my word for it though... just watch your tank as you age into this hobby...
You couldn't give me something free off of temu.So many things wrong with this comment![]()
I understand the difference between LA County and LADWP's jurisdiction (I was born and raised in Azusa). But since their Location only says "Los Angeles" I had to pick what I considered to be most relevant, and hopefully, even if they aren't in LA Proper, the tables get them thinking about what is actually in their water, and go in search of the correct information. I can only hope...FYI... The vast majority of L.A. county isn't under LADWP's jurisdiction. That link covers the City of Los Angeles only.
Still doesn't exist the guy using someone else's photos, but ya know....
Your working too hard trying to rationalize this with the guy that just digs a hole deeper and deeper. Your energy is much better spent not wasting it on this thread.
Other than the fact that hey use forced labor?@EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal what’s wrong with that?
It is a pretty easy system, just make sure you pick up the plus DI version and pay attention to the color of the resin chamber, when it gets about 3/4 maroon/brown is when I order a new one. It comes with most of the standard plumbing fittings you will need, I can't recall if it comes with a drain saddle or not though, so you may want to double check and pick one up if it doesn't.I like this thread. I am a hardway learner sometimes. My tank sits full of tap water. That will be changed starting friday. That ro buddy system is calling to me.
If you're worried about membrane quality buy one made in U.S. like Dow. But, I've used cheaper, chinese ones with no problems at all, for 20 years. I have 3 RODI units currently in use and all have worked just fine regardless of where I bought the membranes or how much I've paid.Hey everyone,
I was wondering has anyone ever gone the cheaper route with RODI membranes/carbon blocks/sediment filters?
I need to replace my RODI filters and membrane, if I order from BRS I would get membrane and 2 carbon blocks for over $100
While I can order from Amazon a pack of 4 carbon blocks and a 150GPD membrane for around 50.
Thoughts?
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