Bacteria in a bottle?

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

Wilsoni said:
Also out of curiosity, what are your current parameters?

Last i tested was as follows:
Alk 8.9dkh (hannah checker)
Cal ~450ppm (Hannah Checker)
Phosphates .02ppm (Hannah Checker)
Temp 79.6 average per apex, (fluctuates .4 degrees at most a day)
ph average 8.2 (apex lab grade probe.. may need replacing soon)
Mag ~1250 if i remember right per Red Sea

These tests were about 5 days ago i think?

Wilsoni · Apr 5, 2016

Sorry for all of the questions. I'm just trying to gain a better understanding of your typical maintenance routine.

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

Wilsoni said:
Sorry for all of the questions. I'm just trying to gain a better understanding of your typical maintenance routine.

Since ive had these things there is no such thing as typical.

My Typical routine would be about 15 gallon waterchanges every week to 10 days depending on my schedule, however with the spawn of satan living in my tank maintenance is based on what i can see with the tank and the reaction it has to different things.

I however am at the point where i need to try a more natural method to help it along as i dont think my corals can handle much more of the other stuff like lights out and h2o2. Hence the bacteria in a bottle and huge pod load that i want to add.

I am also moving in May and likely will get rid of the sand bed all togeather as ive read that will help.

Wilsoni · Apr 5, 2016

Dirtrider225 said:
But when they are retracted for one reason or another the skeleton is nearly bleach white.

Members of the Pocilloporidae family do not tolerate alk swings which is likely the cause of this.

As far as the coloration of the rest of your SPS, I would say they should eventually come around once everything stabilizes. Battling dinos can be extremely stressful on coral (especially SPS) depending on how drastic of an approach you take

brandon429 · Apr 5, 2016

Wow~! nice fts I thought you were concealing some kind of wreck man

tank is enviable!

Not using UV here is a tragedy

for sure if that tank was mine it would be dino free in two weeks. I believe your ID as well, nice call. nice verif

your bac plan has a real good chance because your invasion is low level, you are acting early, and have already been trying preventatives nice way to stay busy. Siphon it 100% clean of the invader, peroxide and UV sized for about an 800 gallon pond...that'll do it

. 800 gallon rated UVs are not cheap, even on the rent, understandably that may have to wait. but its a tragedy, it would slay your invader per the pics and the specifics in the pics/clean sandbed, clean overall no obvious nutrient stores/invader semi under control etc, low fish bioload for waste inputs etc)

Wilsoni · Apr 5, 2016

Dirtrider225 said:
I however am at the point where i need to try a more natural method to help it along as i dont think my corals can handle much more of the other stuff like lights out and h2o2. Hence the bacteria in a bottle and huge pod load that i want to add.

You literally stole the words out of my mouth. Instead of full blown combat, make little changes and watch your tank carefully. I know dinos suck and are an eyesore but it could be worse IMO... (Bryopsis)

Wilsoni · Apr 5, 2016

I mean I would definitely stay on top of it none the less but everything in moderation is always a good saying when it comes to reefing. @brandon429 highlighted some really great points.

May the force be with you...

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

brandon429 said:
Wow~! nice fts I thought you were concealing some kind of wreck man

tank is enviable!

Not using UV here is a tragedy for sure if that tank was mine it would be dino free in two weeks. I believe your ID as well, nice call. nice verif

your bac plan has a real good chance because your invasion is low level, you are acting early, and have already been trying preventatives nice way to stay busy. Siphon it 100% clean of the invader, peroxide and UV sized for about an 800 gallon pond...that'll do it . 800 gallon rated UVs are not cheap, even on the rent, understandably that may have to wait. but its a tragedy, it would slay your invader per the pics and the specifics in the pics/clean sandbed, clean overall no obvious nutrient stores/invader semi under control etc, low fish bioload for waste inputs etc)

I will try the bacteria and pods and whatever else i can get my hands on first, My sump is very small, and i would have to purchase a larger return pump to handle a UV (i think? i have no idea on how to set one up or what brand or any of that..)

If i go the UV route it will be after i mover to our house in may, ill have more room for modifications and such instead of living in my tiny apartment

Thanks for the words of encouragement! (feel free to link a good uv and explain what i have to do to set up as well if you have time

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

Wilsoni said:
You literally stole the words out of my mouth. Instead of full blown combat, make little changes and watch your tank carefully. I know dinos suck and are an eyesore but it could be worse IMO... (Bryopsis)

Its funny you say that.. as i have both. :'(

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

Wilsoni · Apr 5, 2016

Dirtrider225 said:
Its funny you say that.. as i have both. :'(

Yikes I thought you were dealing primarily with dinos... Fortunately your Mg is a little low, have you attempted to use Kent Tech M to raise your Magnesium? I didn't physically see any bryo in your tank but I do know there are numerous threads that list Tech M as being a tiny miracle when it comes to battling Bryopsis. From what I've read it needs to be in the 1400-1500 ppm range though.

Just an FYI, I've never dealt with Bryopsis so please take my advice with a grain of salt...

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

Wilsoni said:
Yikes I thought you were dealing primarily with dinos... Fortunately your Mg is a little low, have you attempted to use Kent Tech M to raise your Magnesium? I didn't physically see any bryo in your tank but I do know there are numerous threads that list Tech M as being a tiny miracle when it comes to battling Bryopsis. From what I've read it needs to be in the 1400-1500 ppm range though.

Just an FYI, I've never dealt with Bryopsis so please take my advice with a grain of salt...

Ive done nothing to battle bryopsis. Dinos are my main concern, and after i rid them then ill deal with it. Ill try the Tech M but only after im done with dinos lol And ill post new photos tonight or tomorrow showing the current status of the tank as well as do new watertests.

brandon429 · Apr 5, 2016

the bryopsis is quite easy to fix, but not through treating via the water only, that has variation. for any bry rocks, remove em and scrape off the offender, taking bits of anchor rock with it from the holdfast areas. after clean, then treat with tech m, on the cleaned spot outside of tank. Of course it is ok to dump it in the tank and go for a slow kill...the other way is deliberate and we collect lots of good after pics doing it that way. the rasp way prevented valonia from taking over my tank. rasping out holdfast-based invaders is truly the best way known, for an accessible tank like you have. sometimes things are so stacked and so large that removing isn't practical, it spreads in the dt as they experiment with water-only approaches. Yours is in check as its not even readily apparent in the pics. consider a test area rasped/cleaned compared to non test areas.

of water dosed options, tech m is the leader for bry

tcoyle · Apr 5, 2016

Dr Tim's One and Only is nitrifying bacteria. For cyano I would use this http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/natural-aquarium-cleaner. I have used it with success for my outbreak. Just use about half of the recommended amount or slightly less at first.

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

brandon429 said:
the bryopsis is quite easy to fix, but not through treating via the water only, that has variation. for any bry rocks, remove em and scrape off the offender, taking bits of anchor rock with it from the holdfast areas. after clean, then treat with tech m, on the cleaned spot outside of tank. Of course it is ok to dump it in the tank and go for a slow kill...the other way is deliberate and we collect lots of good after pics doing it that way. the rasp way prevented valonia from taking over my tank. rasping out holdfast-based invaders is truly the best way known, for an accessible tank like you have. sometimes things are so stacked and so large that removing isn't practical, it spreads in the dt as they experiment with water-only approaches. Yours is in check as its not even readily apparent in the pics. consider a test area rasped/cleaned compared to non test areas.

It is worse than in the pics lol Usually ill manually remove as much as i can with my waterchange and then take pictures 3 or 4 hours after that. Like i said ill post new ones tonight.

However since i will be moving in May and have to dismantle the tank anyways i think that would be a good time to scrub the rocks and use Tech M to spot treat all the scrubbed areas.

Davy Jones · Apr 5, 2016

tcoyle said:
Dr Tim's One and Only is nitrifying bacteria. For cyano I would use this http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/natural-aquarium-cleaner. I have used it with success for my outbreak. Just use about half of the recommended amount or slightly less at first.

Cyano is a little different than Dinoflagellates, and frankly i would prefer cyano.

But thanks for your input on DR Tims

Kungpaoshizi · Apr 5, 2016

I sometimes see cyano/dino's that look like that pop up when my nitrate is near-0 and my phosphate is a bit higher. This is something many see when carbon dosing. I believe it's probably similar scenarios even with ATS's or dsb's. Just a thought...
As to the bacteria in a bottle stuff~
Biospira, one and only, prodibio, zeobak, and uhhh nite out II iirc is my bottles I keep in the fridge. And just ignore the naysayers, most don't have any idea about bacterial cultures.. heh..

One of the fun facts of bacteria is they're the basis for so much, in so many ways, we've only really seen and cultured probably 15% iirc of the bacteria in the ocean. Also bacillus has successfully been sampled and cultured from petrified amber, off of a bee's leg. Of course that was a million year old sample or whatever the time passed was, but it goes to show just how tough some bacteria are. Bacillus is also one of the main bacterias that come into question when speculating which bacterias are a part of carbon dosing. Dr Tim speculates this, as does another double phd who made the Right Now Bacteria system years ago.(that was snake oil too! at least according to the masses; despite being used in water purification plants and several public aquariums)

Adamwheel · Apr 5, 2016

I had dinos on my last build and eventually had to shut it down.

I too had dry pukani I'd cured for over a year in anticipation of starting the system.

I'm no expert but believe with certainty the lack of diversity was the reason they bloomed and overtook that system.

I tried adding diversity but it was too late and I had to hit reset.

Good luck,

Adam

furam28 · Apr 5, 2016

Bacteria can and do survive in a bottle, however the viability of bacteria in a bottle left at room temperature for months is very poor. It does work for many people because even if you have 1 or 2 viable cells that's enough to colonize. However, you don't know if the bottle went through high temperature during shipping or in storage, and there may very well be no viable cell in the whole bottle. If you are willing to spend a little extra, I would suggest going with this: http://fritzaquatics.com/product/fritzzyme-9-saltwater/ (they also have a concentrated version). This product is kept refrigerated and shipped cold, so it will cost you a little extra. Hopefully an LFS in your are carries it.