Brown Jelly Disease :(

[evolved]

Package instructions are fine; you can go a bit stronger but there's not much need.

 

[hectat2]

I do a fresh water dip on mine and then a reef dip for 30 min and work on my torch

 

[kireek]

As a suggestion since I am not always the most precise person:

I use a 2 cup Tupperware filled with the coral and tank water.Then one drop of Lugols.Less is better than too much.I make sure to rinse the coral in clean tank water.

Package instructions are fine; you can go a bit stronger but there's not much need.

My bottle( Kent Marine Lugols Solution)says 40 drops per gallon of aquarium water.This is stronger than what I typically use so you may want to try this first on your acans.

 

[Shep]

lol wow , I have been using way too much

 

[evolved]

40 drops per gallon, 16 cups per gallon, 2.5 drops per cup (1cup=8oz)

 

[pciscott]

If it is only one piece and you do not have quarantine I would toss it. If you have quarantine I have saved many LPS corals with Brown Jelly with Tropic Marin Coral Cure, a Iodine based dip with that said it did not do well on Acans. I did save some Acans with Cipro, I crushed up a pill and mixed in a tray of tank water and left infected corals in the tray over night. I then put them in quarantine tank with medium to high flow and I saved some and the disease stopped spreading. Best of luck

 

[Shep]

Well it has spread to all of them despite my best efforts, so far 100% of the acans that gotten it have dies so I have no hope. Looking at my tanks honestly makes me sick to my stomach now, about to lose all of my corals.

 

[143MPCo]

Dude, I will be the first to say I'm very sorry this is happening to your system, whatever happens I have a bunch of frags I will donate to you if you want them!

 

[reeffirstaid]

I don't want to sound rude or crass, but several times I provided you with advice on how to save those corals. In 20 years of keeping reef aquariums, I've dealt with brown jelly disease (rapid tissue necrosis) multiple times. As I said before, the only way to have any effect on RTN is to frag off areas where necrosis is taking place and follow it up with a dip. Then QT the coral so the disease doesn't spread to other colonies. If bacteria is causing RTN (again we can only guess, as it spread to other corals, so likely it was a bacteria or pathogen) the only way to have any effect on an infected coral is to frag off diseased areas. From what I read, the only real treatment done was iodine dips at the wrong concentration. Bacteria that causes RTN is usually embedded in coral tissue. This means iodine cannot reach it, or at least not in high enough concentration to kill it. This is why you need to frag diseased tissue off, then provide a dip in hopes of stopping spreading.

If you continue in the hobby, I would recommend the following. A good frag kit, that has all the tools needed to frag off small pieces of coral - even off of small frags. A second coral tank with basic filtration and decent lighting, to QT specimens or place them for treatment when they get sick. A good, reliable acclimation system along with a work area for fragging/doctoring corals. A bright lamp, cutting board - etc are all mainstays of this area. With some guidance you could be taught how to keep a reef, where this would be unlikely to happen again, or if it did happen again, you had the tools on hand to correct it.

I have plenty of rare, colorful, healthy small acan colonies I'd be willing to ship you, but you need to have the tools in place to properly keep them and correct emergencies before I part with them.

 

[Shep]

I don't want to sound rude or crass, but several times I provided you with advice on how to save those corals. In 20 years of keeping reef aquariums, I've dealt with brown jelly disease (rapid tissue necrosis) multiple times. As I said before, the only way to have any effect on RTN is to frag off areas where necrosis is taking place and follow it up with a dip. Then QT the coral so the disease doesn't spread to other colonies. If bacteria is causing RTN (again we can only guess, as it spread to other corals, so likely it was a bacteria or pathogen) the only way to have any effect on an infected coral is to frag off diseased areas. From what I read, the only real treatment done was iodine dips at the wrong concentration. Bacteria that causes RTN is usually embedded in coral tissue. This means iodine cannot reach it, or at least not in high enough concentration to kill it. This is why you need to frag diseased tissue off, then provide a dip in hopes of stopping spreading.

If you continue in the hobby, I would recommend the following. A good frag kit, that has all the tools needed to frag off small pieces of coral - even off of small frags. A second coral tank with basic filtration and decent lighting, to QT specimens or place them for treatment when they get sick. A good, reliable acclimation system along with a work area for fragging/doctoring corals. A bright lamp, cutting board - etc are all mainstays of this area. With some guidance you could be taught how to keep a reef, where this would be unlikely to happen again, or if it did happen again, you had the tools on hand to correct it.

I have plenty of rare, colorful, healthy small acan colonies I'd be willing to ship you, but you need to have the tools in place to properly keep them and correct emergencies before I part with them.

I did frag off the areas that were infected and any coral that started showing signs was immediately removed from the tank and placed in my other tank (its a fish only tank but has a kessil light so it can sustain them). I admit I was using a bit too much iodine but as soon as I realized that, I corrected my mistake. Every morning there would be a new coral that was infected with it, it just spread like wildfire, the problem was during the day they would look pretty normal but then in the morning they would be covered in it. but you are not being rude or crass and I appreciate the help and feed back.

 

[reeffirstaid]

When you fragged the areas, did you cut passed the area of diseased tissue, so that you also took some healthy tissue off as well? My assumption is that you may have a serious bacterial problem in your tank.

 

[Shep]

I gave the infected area a wide berth, I have a frogspawn that looks to be doing fine as well as a large LPS coral that for the life of me I can not remember the name of. Looks kind of like a blasto but much much larger and a single head.

 

[Shep]

Dude, I will be the first to say I'm very sorry this is happening to your system, whatever happens I have a bunch of frags I will donate to you if you want them!

I really appreciate that, people like you are what make R2R such an outstanding community!

 

[curtisbenm]

Lol, your not getting out of this hobby!

 

[143MPCo]

I really appreciate that, people like you are what make R2R such an outstanding community!

I'm sure others would also help, we all know how much time and effort goes into the hobby.

 

[tautog83]

My torches randomly every month or so , shrink up and ooze a brown jelly like substance but then the next day they are fine.. is this the same thing? they have done it several times maybe once a month for the past like 6 months but theres no tissue loss or anything like that . they are about 8 months old I just figured it was some sort of waste product

 

[Tab28]

My torches randomly every month or so , shrink up and ooze a brown jelly like substance but then the next day they are fine.. is this the same thing? they have done it several times maybe once a month for the past like 6 months but theres no tissue loss or anything like that . they are about 8 months old I just figured it was some sort of waste product

Your description sounds like coral poop. Brown jelly generally attacks, or at least in all my cases, always at night. It looks like a brown mold as if the effected area has a brown mold blanket on it. It is nasty. Most times fatal and hard to control once a coral has been effected by it. I have had some success in curing it. It depends on the treatment and type of coral. If it effects a colony every head that is covered is a goner. I do not think a coral that had brown jelly has been saved, just the parts that had no brown jelly. Even after cleaning it could remain hidden in effected bare skeleton areas. Waiting for lights out to jump to an unaffected flesh area.

Not sure what determines the coral that gets effected. Have read it could be an injury or just low immune due to stress or the injury. I had a healthy looking frogspawn suddenly effected. A hammer right next to it never got it.

 

[Marty.h]

Once you learn to recognise brown jelly like I have and I mentioned earlier see it start to appear on one of the heads on my new torch did not give it a chance to spread took the coral out and lobbed that head off and all has been fine I have learnt you have to be quick to spot issues and even faster to take action.

I had another torch in the tank a while ago and I kept finding it on the sand most mornings as it was being pushed out the whole in the rock it was placed it must of got injured and got brown jelly I just simply disposed of it sometimes you have to make a sacrifice to save the rest.

I recently found out why the torch kept ending up on the floor there was a hitchiker crab in that rock so was pushing it out to get out the rock !!

 

[Shep]

Two questions, 1) why is it of killing my acans but has done nothing to my frogspawn? I thought frogspawn were supposed to get it really easily? And 2) could having too little flow be part of the cause of the out break? I have heard that higher flow can help stop it. Any thoughts on this? lost 5 more today. I ts just so quick by the time I wake up and notice it, its too late and its already covering most of the coral. The rest of the acans have not opened up in a few days but have yet to show any jelly growth.

 

[Marty.h]

If they recent frags could be damaged ect.

I had my huge duncan wipes out right beside my hammer around 3 months ago my massive wall hammer is unaffected it's how it is seems to go for the weak or damaged